: question about Hotchkis Sways and front end clunk



rgd
12-05-06, 02:47 AM
I don't know if this question has been answered already. I have read thru as much as I can find about this issue, i have installed the collars sent after the fact by Hotchkis, (which do not stay in place as they should). Anyway my question is this.

How does your front sway bar line up in comparison to the brackets holding them in place? On the driver's side, my bracket lines up right at the bend, on the passenger side it lines up about 1 inch from the bend. Is that how yours is?

My bar is almost always touching the shock on the right side, which is opposite of what I would think based on how it lines up.


I have read recent threads about the brackets bending causing movement etc. I don't have that issue because early on I welded a shaped piece of metal all the way around each bracket to add strength.

I am trying to avoid having to pull the bar and weld the collars in place if I don't have too. Plus I am afraid that might weaken the bars due to heat of weld.

Am I missing something here? It makes no difference if I make a hard turn, my G meter always reads 1.05plus on either side, it always goes back to klunk immedietly.

it's driving me klunky.

rgd :helpless:

rand49er
12-05-06, 06:19 AM
Rgd, are you suggesting that the bar is asymmetrical or just that it shifted to an asymmetrical position? I'm not sure that it is (asymmetrical), but if it has shifted to one side, that side should have more clearance between itself and the shock. I know that before I installed the Hotchkis-supplied collars, I tried to make sure the bar was centered with equal clearance on both sides. Then, I tightened the heck out of those collars to keep them in their places.

Also, I have always thought that the "clunk" was coming from the bar contacting the shock. Others here have suggested that it's coming from the bar moving around within the saddle bracket after the bracket has distorted due to its rather flimsy nature. You, having beefed up your bracket and still having the clunk, would support the notion that the noise is coming from elsewhere other than the bracket/bar point of contact.

It's too blasted cold here right now for me to go look under the car and check this out again ... sorry, gotta wait for sping, now. :) Maybe someone a little further south can chime in here.

BTW, I have not had the "clunk" since installing the collars.

calicadi
12-05-06, 10:04 PM
I'm pretty sure the bar is symetrical. I'm assuming you have the collars inboard of the brackets. If you don't you'll want to put them there. Here's what I had to do to get rid of all sway relatated noise and pretty much stop bending the brackets. (The brackets are a little distorted after five autoX's but not distorting further with each event.)

Set the parking brake, lift the front end and put on stands.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the collars.
Tediously go from one side to the other pulling/pushing and measuring the gap to the shock until both are equal. For me this was just five millimeters while lifted.
Install the collars inboard of and smack up against the brackets.
Before tightening the collars, check that gap on both sides to make sure nothing has shifted while the collars were going on.
Tighten the collars.
Disconnect the endlinks from the bar.
Manually rotate the bar through its' arc of travel checking for any binding.
Reconnect the endlinks.
Mount the wheels.
Lower the car, chock the rear wheels, start it, crank the steering wheel full lock and measure the bar to shock clearance. Then crank full opposite lock and check the other side.
For me, the gap when on the ground is a half-inch, both sides.
Hope that helps!

BowenCT
12-05-06, 10:40 PM
I'm pretty sure the bar is symetrical. I'm assuming you have the collars inboard of the brackets. If you don't you'll want to put them there. Here's what I had to do to get rid of all sway relatated noise and pretty much stop bending the brackets. (The brackets are a little distorted after five autoX's but not distorting further with each event.)

Set the parking brake, lift the front end and put on stands.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the collars.
Tediously go from one side to the other pulling/pushing and measuring the gap to the shock until both are equal. For me this was just five millimeters while lifted.
Install the collars inboard of and smack up against the brackets.
Before tightening the collars, check that gap on both sides to make sure nothing has shifted while the collars were going on.
Tighten the collars.
Disconnect the endlinks from the bar.
Manually rotate the bar through its' arc of travel checking for any binding.
Reconnect the endlinks.
Mount the wheels.
Lower the car, chock the rear wheels, start it, crank the steering wheel full lock and measure the bar to shock clearance. Then crank full opposite lock and check the other side.
For me, the gap when on the ground is a half-inch, both sides.Hope that helps!

You see, it's posts like that that make it difficult to step away from this community! Tons of quality folks around here.