How would I go about doing this?? I have the eibach springs for the 3.2l. Do I need to take out my back seats in order to put the springs on?? Any information would be appreciated!:worship:

On the fronts, you unbolt the lower part of the shock, the upper pinch bolt, and undo the five bolts under the hood holding the strut assembly on. It comes out as a unit. Compress the spring, unscrew the top bolt, and the whole thing comes apart. Reverse to assemble.

For the rears, you only need to unbolt the bottom of the shock to allow the lower a-arms to droop. Getting the rear springs out is a bear. I used a compressor (very tight fit), but others loosten the bolts on the entire rear cradle. Only loosten . . . don't remove them all, or you'll have a differential and rear axles on your head. Some simply use a pry bar and a lot of strong language.

IMHO, if you don't feel comfortable doing it, save up a some $$$ and have a shop do it. Also, if you're gonna wrench on your car yourself, it's strongly advised to pony up $100 for the Factory shop manual (from Helm). It explains all in detail.

Compressing the spring is not fun AT ALL if you do not have the right tool for that. Pony up for that (not sure of correct name - prbably spring compressor LOL) b4 you even bother making this a DIY.

You can rent the tool for free at autozone if you have one around. COmes in handy. Ive lowered a few cars and wont do it without the tool

nice. i did not know that. damn. nice advise.

They have lots of tools to rent for free. All you need is a refundable deposit. One time I rented a tool and just kept it because the deposit was cheaper than the tool usually costs. It was a tool to remove the underdrive pully.

do I need to take the back seats out to access the springs though????

do I need to take the back seats out to access the springs though????

JONNY, I THINK YOU ONLY HAVE TO DO THAT IF YOU REPLACE THE STRUTS.

JONNY, I THINK YOU ONLY HAVE TO DO THAT IF YOU REPLACE THE STRUTS.


I wasn't sure, over at a tire kingdom, I know everyone there...and one of the guys was talking about taking out my back seat...I was thinking to myself why wopuld he have to do that:confused: If its not needed to take therm out I dont want to..... I am having them install it...but I kind of want to know what to watch out for while they are doing , so they are doing it properly. I ALWAYS stand right there watching them....never leave my car when its being worked on.

SO any type of information from that standpoint would be highly appreciated:worship:

Here's the deal with the back seat. Eibach gives you with the springs 2 new bump stops (yellow rubber) to replace your stock ones with. If you choose to use them, then yes, you have to remove the seats to get the struts out. I did this on mine as I figured the stops would be a different resistance since your lowering the car. I am sure that not everyone does it but I figured... better to be safe than sorry. It does completely change how long it takes to do the job however.

Here's the deal with the back seat. Eibach gives you with the springs 2 new bump stops (yellow rubber) to replace your stock ones with. If you choose to use them, then yes, you have to remove the seats to get the struts out. I did this on mine as I figured the stops would be a different resistance since your lowering the car. I am sure that not everyone does it but I figured... better to be safe than sorry. It does completely change how long it takes to do the job however.


Ok, yea I would rather use the bump stops that they provided for safety precaution. heheh I guess the next question would be, how do I take out my back seats?? I dont want them all jacking with the seats.

all you do is same as most rear seats. push in at the base and then pull up. thats it. your mechanics will certainly have zero problems with this phase as its the easiest step. good luck. you will love it when its complete.

i hate to sabotage this thread but i got a question now that we're on topic. since i bought the V rear shocks should i get the eibachs designed for the V? i noticed that the eibachs for the v have different lowering settings for the car than the eibach pro's for the base model. Any one here who has the V shocks with the WW mod and the eibachs what springs did you use the ones for the V or for the base model? sorry if it is a self explanatory ques, i'm just more that "better safe than sorry" type of person.

dunno. sorry

bump.

i hate to sabotage this thread but i got a question now that we're on topic. since i bought the V rear shocks should i get the eibachs designed for the V? i noticed that the eibachs for the v have different lowering settings for the car than the eibach pro's for the base model. Any one here who has the V shocks with the WW mod and the eibachs what springs did you use the ones for the V or for the base model? sorry if it is a self explanatory ques, i'm just more that "better safe than sorry" type of person.

Yea, I was wondering that too, I was going to purchase the V shocks as well...but I figured ehhh...I jsut want these springs on!! I cant wait!!:)

NOOO! The rear springs in both kits (CTS and CTS-V) are the identical part. I got this directly from Mark at Eibach. The fronts of the V are sized for a heavier V8 engine, and ride slightly lower. The V fronts are progressive while ours are single rate. The rears on both kits are progressive. Get the CTS Eibach kit. It will lower the front 1.2". Put on the V shocks (FE4's), with the WildWhl spacers, to lower the rear about 1". Othewise they pump up and raise it to the stock level. If you have non-load leveling shocks to begin with, you simply put the springs in as-is for 1.2" lowering all around.

I actually shimmed my fronts up about a quarter inch (6mm) to get a more even stance. Ground Control did some tests and found the optimal ride height for the CTS and CTS-V to be 26 7/8". The stock eibachs will be a little lower than that.

BTW- the bottom back seat just comes out by pulling up (hard) and forward. The rear seat (mine's not the folding one) has two bolts at the bottom, then four more at the top in the trunk. Once you pull the seatback out, you'll see the tops of the shocks in the bottom corners. Undo the two mounting nuts there, and one large nut holding it on (from under the car) to the lower A-arm, and the whole shocks drops out.

Your the man Ody!!!!!:worship: :worship: :thumbsup: I am getting the springs installed today.. now that I have the idea of how everything will go...I know what to look for and have an idea of how they should be doing it.

Ody = CTS king!!!!!:worship:

NOOO! The rear springs in both kits (CTS and CTS-V) are the identical part. I got this directly from Mark at Eibach. The fronts of the V are sized for a heavier V8 engine, and ride slightly lower. The V fronts are progressive while ours are single rate. The rears on both kits are progressive. Get the CTS Eibach kit. It will lower the front 1.2". Put on the V shocks (FE4's), with the WildWhl spacers, to lower the rear about 1". Othewise they pump up and raise it to the stock level. If you have non-load leveling shocks to begin with, you simply put the springs in as-is for 1.2" lowering all around.

I actually shimmed my fronts up about a quarter inch (6mm) to get a more even stance. Ground Control did some tests and found the optimal ride height for the CTS and CTS-V to be 26 7/8". The stock eibachs will be a little lower than that.

BTW- the bottom back seat just comes out by pulling up (hard) and forward. The rear seat (mine's not the folding one) has two bolts at the bottom, then four more at the top in the trunk. Once you pull the seatback out, you'll see the tops of the shocks in the bottom corners. Undo the two mounting nuts there, and one large nut holding it on (from under the car) to the lower A-arm, and the whole shocks drops out.

awesome man thanks!!

BTW - if anyone wants to follow my lead and shim the fronts to match the back after installing the Eibachs with FE4's, I may still have a few sets of donut shaped shims that WildWhl made for me. I'll have to check when I get home, but first come first served. Basically, you install them under the front spring pad to raise the mounting point slightly. I've got a pretty even wheel gaps front, top, and back. It doesn't look 'slammed', but sits just about right, IMHO.