: No Heat!!!



doc0025
11-20-06, 12:01 PM
I want to start by thanking everyone who posts info. on here. I have learned a great deal. I can honestly say that I have searched on here for a couple of weeks and I have not found a specific problem like mine.

I live in Columbus Ohio (Go Bucks!!!) and my 1997 Catera has no heat. Actually, the fan does not blow at all. Display works good. Outside temp. sensor works good. It sounds like it wants to work. It just doesn't blow air. I have checked the fuses, and they are all good. I have a mechanic who said I need to change the blower motor and the resistor, but I think he's just takin' the easy route. Could it possibly be only the motor and not the resistor? The resistor is a lot more expensive and I would love to save some money on this.

Also, If I need to get both done. Is this something I can do on my own, or should I leave it to a pro.

Thanks Again,

Cold in Columbus

guardian
11-20-06, 12:31 PM
If you can isolate the resistor, or even just the series combination of the motor and resistor, check using a VOM for continutiy. In the latter case, if either the motor OR resistor is open, you will have no continuity. And, yes, it is possible for the motor to fail while the resistor remains OK. for example, the motor brushes might be gone.

If you feel the above is beyond your skills, and if you do not have a friend with basic electrical know-how, consider taking the car in to an auto electric shop, for diagnosis only. Such a shop should be able to run these simple tests without imposing great expense on you. Ask anyway, in advance, just to be sure.

The thought here is to try to find precisely what's gone awry. If it's not the motor or resistor, and assuming the fuse is good as you say, the problem also could be an open or corroded connection in the wiring leading to those items. You need to circuit trace that particular circuit and try to find the source of your trouble.

A GP mechanic might not have the skill to circuit trace something like this and localize the problem source. Such an individual might opt for "repair by substitution" instead of and/or as an alternative to diagnosis. An auto electric shop, and especially a smaller one or two man outfit, might be willing to take the time actually to localize your problem. This facilitates the rifle shot fix as opposed to the shotgun fix.

Once you know for sure what is wrong, and perhaps even if you do not, consider picking up a motor and/or a resistor from an auto graveyard. That should save you a few bucks.

A good day for OSU Saturday. :worship:

Hope you have equivalent success with your troubleshooting!

Good luck.:)

doc0025
11-21-06, 12:06 PM
Thank you for the suggestions. I am not (nor do I know anyone) who is experienced w/ this type of situation, so I will take your advice and find an auto electric shop to help me out. I got the engine and transmission replaced on this car, and it had cold A/C when they started on it. Now, after they're done, it doesn't blow at all. He says it's nothing he did, but I don't believe him. I'll keep the board updated in the hopes of helping someone later on.

Thanks Again,
Cold in Columbus

guardian
11-21-06, 09:49 PM
Thank you for the suggestions. I am not (nor do I know anyone) who is experienced w/ this type of situation, so I will take your advice and find an auto electric shop to help me out. I got the engine and transmission replaced on this car, and it had cold A/C when they started on it. Now, after they're done, it doesn't blow at all. He says it's nothing he did, but I don't believe him. I'll keep the board updated in the hopes of helping someone later on.

Thanks Again,
Cold in Columbus

I like the sound of that. Maybe the poor guy just tore loose a wire without realizing he did so. That would be a lot better than a bad resistor or motor.

An electrical troubleshooting specialist should be able to find something like that, even if it is in an obscure place.

Good luck! :)