I have plans to get mine running better. A key point for me is improved power with no loss of mpg.

1. X-pipe exhaust with super hemi turbos, quiet, flows and makes power like open headers. Can't beat them.
2. 1.6 roller rockers (roller trunions and tips)
3. Not sure on headers, maybe, maybe not. I would like them, but I need solid high mileage reliability. I don't want to put new ones on every year....
4. Impala SS wheels with Cad caps.
5. 92 WS6 Trans AM steering box (12.7:1 fast turn, constant ratio)
6. S10 converter.
7. I have an Auburn posi sitting in the shed that needs to get in ASAP. Just need time and $$ to get to install it.

And the someday when I have lots of $$, turbo charger. I have one that might work from a LD465 Turbodiesel M35A2 2.5t truck, just need to look into it seriously. 465 CID diesel, might work on a 350 gas...

It'll probably be a while before I ever have the money, but here's my idea of what I'd like to do over the next few years:

1) Throatier catback exhaust system with x-pipe...and MAYBE headers, but that's a pricey non-necessity for my "soon" plans
2) New CA intake
3) PCM re-tune for a more aggressive and less sloshy feeling power usage
4) New aftermarket head unit, since I've now had 2 OEM ones go bad with little use and am not doing a 3rd
5) Various upgraded suspension bits. Even with almost 200k, I still like the feel of the FE2 springs in my dad's Roadmaster a LOT more, so one thing I'm thinking of are a new set of stock springs from either a Tow Pack Caddy/Buick or that of a Caprice (aka, B4U, and the sport/handling suspension)--that way I can retain the stock height which is perfect for me, but also have a lot more control combined with a still very absorbent ride. Also probably shocks--Bilsteins, but not sure if just front or all around, since mine still has a perfect load leveler rear--and upgraded sway bars.
6) General tune-up items with time, such as new plugs, wires, etc....and I really need brake work soon to resolve a weird slipping/creaking sensation from the fronts.

That's all on my "realistic" list, and hopefully I'll be able to accomplish some of them before too long. For my uses, I really still haven't thought too much of more in-depth engine or transmission upgrades, and even if I do, that won't be a for an even longer time.

Short term, I just want a car that feels a little bit quicker with a more "sport" tune to it, that sounds a bit more big V8'd, but that still retains a lot of the classic stock big Cadillac traits--just improved.

Also most likely, in a few years I'll have bought a second newer and smaller car once out of college and settled, but still have the Fleetwood around to be more of the toy at that point, rather than the sole daily driver.

1. X-pipe exhaust with super hemi turbos, quiet, flows and makes power like open headers. Can't beat them.


you cannot make open header power with a quiet exhaust. it is just impossible. open headers make good peak numbers b/c there is no obstruction to flow. if these hemi turbo mufflers are quiet, then there must be considerable restriction. Wondering who told you otherwise?

.50 cannon. Grenade launcher. Radar jamming system. Super Mario bananna launcher. Body armor. Bullit proof glass. Capacitive high energy storage device for parking lot security and for door dingers. Multiple video cameras with satillite video uplink. 8877 H.F. amplifier and tuning unit. Harris pacer bounce RF350K H.F. tranceiver under the dash. 8 track player. Bank of Crown DC300s and Marshall 4 X 12 speakers to match. Built-in ATM. Air ride suspension. Dual turbocharged 500 engine. 4L80E trans with diesel controller (This one I actually have waiting to go in). And maybe a new air filter element.

Ape Man, that is good stuff. LOL. Let me know when you got the .50 cal in, I would like to shoot a couple rounds off! :thumbsup: My upgrades are pretty extensive, but for the time being, here is what I have planned as soon as I can get a second car to drive. Fix the body (minor complications from a hit and run in the local Wal-Mart parking lot, that I was just informed of yesterday that their cameras they spent tens of thousands on cannot discern who the person was, what the license plate said, or even if it was a male or female...bs I think) :rant2: Anyway, better cam than the quiet cam, 1.6 roller rockers, posi rear end, 3:42 gears, Bilstein shocks, Hotchkis sways, 52mm throttle body, ram air kit from a website I saw earlier this week, heads from eportworks.com next year, and finally a new intake manifold port matched to the heads with a custom PCM re-tune. Maybe some different rims. I like the factory chrome ones on my car now, but if anyone wants to trade for some impala ss wheels and tires, i would gladly accept.

A genuine GE Pyranol oil filled 4 microfarad charged to 10,000 volts would have helped catch the blurry person. Bet their car would have stalled out for a while. Sorry about the mishap. We all have to deal with this stuff.

Well, so much for realistic...

bigbluebrougham- Yours sounds spot on, and a really great combination of things!

You want Realistic? Go to Radio Rhack.

Most of the mods talked about here are pipe dreams from kids with no money.
Maybe 10% of the stuff gets/will get done. That's not realistic either. I suppose it's good practice though. I'm still waiting for someone to put 8/6/4 stuff on a carbureted engine. There are pages of material on that here.

I have done almost everything I want as a daily driver. The only 3 items next on the list are a CPT level 2 4L60e Transmission, 3.73 gears with Eaton Posi, front C5 brake upgrade, rear Impala SS disc brake upgrade.

Other than that, my current mods are in my list. Most of my money is invested in the suspension. Almost everything has been upgraded and/or replaced with Moog replacement parts. The car runs strong and healthy with no issues :thumbsup:

Real dyno tests. Not exact same hp, but very very close. A little more torque in the mid range, and within 4 hp peak when I had the dyno tests of it back in the 80's. The Hemi Turbos are a large muffler, (24in long I think), a nearly a direct replacement for the muffs in our big beasts...

Check this out. Jim has a killer 455 71 LeMans wagon and does engineering quality part evaluations. He has done wonders with stone stock Pontiac parts to run in the low 12's with 3.23 gears.
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/exhaust.html

his car can be seen here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cu4I6gfF68w&mode=user&search=
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GHYxPqePv8&mode=user&search=
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta6kP3itZx8&mode=user&search=

Details of the car here:
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rebuild455jh99.html
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rebuild455jh00.html
http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rebuild455jh2006.html

The only copy I have of what he used to run is in an old Pontiac magazine.

Good reading on how to make a car run and run very well with having 4100 lbs....

1. X-pipe exhaust with super hemi turbos, quiet, flows and makes power like open headers. Can't beat them.


you cannot make open header power with a quiet exhaust. it is just impossible. open headers make good peak numbers b/c there is no obstruction to flow. if these hemi turbo mufflers are quiet, then there must be considerable restriction. Wondering who told you otherwise?

My list is gonna get done soon, hopefully if all goes, by spring. At least the muffers and x-pipe. Then the 1.6's. At least 1.5's if anything. Cam, not for a while, I would like to have a larger one, but for now 1.6's would do what I want. Like someone said, explore all you can out of the stock cam first...

Headers are a thought, I have to do my manifolds, so they will be off, so why not? $$ though.... But my goals are efficiency, not just power. If I can get improved mpg, then I am all for it.

I would LOVE to drop a V4/6/8 on my LT1. I need to look into that some, been wanting to mess with. What I was thinking is adapt the new LS2 DOD lifters and a Gen IV PCM to control it. Then get EFILive or HP Tuners to play with the tuning. But that is long term....

You want Realistic? Go to Radio Rhack.

Most of the mods talked about here are pipe dreams from kids with no money.
Maybe 10% of the stuff gets/will get done. That's not realistic either. I suppose it's good practice though. I'm still waiting for someone to put 8/6/4 stuff on a carbureted engine. There are pages of material on that here.

Just to quickly satisfy my curiosity after hearing it mentioned many times on the SS board, what are the 1.6's and what difference exactly do they make?

1. X-pipe exhaust with super hemi turbos, quiet, flows and makes power like open headers. Can't beat them.


you cannot make open header power with a quiet exhaust. it is just impossible. open headers make good peak numbers b/c there is no obstruction to flow. if these hemi turbo mufflers are quiet, then there must be considerable restriction. Wondering who told you otherwise?

LOUD doesn't not equal HP.

FLOW does equal HP.

FLOW does NOT equal LOUD

Open one of the #17747 mufflers and see.

The rocker arms on the LT1 (and most other Gen 1 and Gen 2 V8) are 1.5:1 ratio. In reality, production line tolerances are poor and it is common to find them at a 1.4:1 ratio just out of slop.

With a 1.6:1 ratio over the stock 1.5:1 will increase the lift and duration of the cam that is in the engine, without changing much.

As always, you MUST check to make sure the springs won't stack up with the larger ratio.

So, if you have a cam lobe that has a peak lift of say 0.25", with a 1.5:1 ratio, that is 0.25x1.5=0.375 valve lift. Now, we take them off and put on 1.6:1 ratio rockers, and we get 0.400" lift. And that is more lift everywhere in the whole time the lobe is lifting the lifter.

This also increases some duration, which moves the rpm range up slightly higher. Maybe 2-4 degrees total gross (advertised) duration.

Just to quickly satisfy my curiosity after hearing it mentioned many times on the SS board, what are the 1.6's and what difference exactly do they make?

Ahh, okay. I probably would have figured it out eventually, but that makes sense completely:thumbsup:

Also makes sense how that could be considered an upgrade after a lot of miles, as well.

Within the next year or two, I have very little "extensive plans" for the Brougham, I'm going to get new rear brakes, get my exhaust welded so I can get rid of those C clamps, and get my power antenna working again.

LOUD doesn't not equal HP.

FLOW does equal HP.

FLOW does NOT equal LOUD

One of my favorite quotes:

"There are loud engines and there are fast ones."
-Ulrich Baretzky, Audi Sport Head of Engine Technology

Time, money and being a daily driver have put some of my immediate plans on hold.

I already have the parts for:
3.42 Posi
Rear Disc conversion
Tubular A-Arms (and front end rebuild)

After those?

I'd address some weaknesses, flaws and/or repairs in the stereo, the interior, the drive train, and the body/paint. Probably in that order.

Some way out ideas?

Tub the rear and shorten the rear axle to allow a much larger wheel under the factory skirt.

Right now I'm working on the suspension on my '91. I have a set of new Intrax springs that will drop the car about 2" and new KYB shocks. I'm also having the front end done with PST components. Sway bars will be next.

As for the rest of the car, a 383 vortec motor with 440hp will find its way into the car. I will also be adding a built 700r4 and 3.42's. Before I get to the drivetrain I would like to sell my existing drivetrain which is an '87 L98 355 from an Iroc 5.7 w/13k miles on the complete rebuild hooked up to the stock but rebuilt 4L60 (non electric). The engine will be complete less pulleys/accessories. Intake/carb and hipo distributor will be included. I should be ready to get rid of the engine/trans in my car in a few months. Any of you guys want a rather large bump in hp from your 305's, 307's or even 350's let me know. I'd let the motor/trans go for $1800.

The only realistic upgrades I have planned, is when the engine in my '79 dies(which won't be anytime soon) I'm getting an "ultimate 425" from 500cid.com. and running duals, other than that, nothing really big. I'm going to get the current carb rebuilt soon, and a couple other small things, but that's it. If the engine in my '90 ever dies I'll put in an LT1, but I'll probably sell the car way before the engine gets old.

Realistic upgrades.....

Well, I might wash it. And put air in the damn leaky tire. :highfive:

I would love to minitub mine and have a set of 315 or 335's in the rear. Keep it looking stock, but have some steamrollers underneath....

Time, money and being a daily driver have put some of my immediate plans on hold.

I already have the parts for:
3.42 Posi
Rear Disc conversion
Tubular A-Arms (and front end rebuild)

After those?

I'd address some weaknesses, flaws and/or repairs in the stereo, the interior, the drive train, and the body/paint. Probably in that order.

Some way out ideas?

Tub the rear and shorten the rear axle to allow a much larger wheel under the factory skirt.

Are there any real advantages of the tubular front arms? I do want to tubular or boxed rear so I can add my 1.5" rear bar. And then bring in my 1.25" Rancho front bar. That is a sweet match to the 1.5" rear.

Just a little spray on a rebuilt mild cam 500 for the 75... then some paint and interior work.

LOUD doesn't not equal HP.

FLOW does equal HP.

FLOW does NOT equal LOUD

Open one of the #17747 mufflers and see.

No

you said you will get power like open headers...

ya right keep dreaming buddy.

You DO know that open headers are not the best for power right? No, no backpressure crap or anything like that, but you need some pipe after the collector to ensure the best scavengeng effect. That said, comparisons between a perforated core "straight-through" style muffler (of varying brands) and a plain old piece of pipe actually favored the muffler on the flow bench.

Oh and do dispute the loud vs. fast real easily, remember: turbos quiet down the exhaust considerably. :)

For my 94 Brougham I have the car pretty near to 'finished' (although I realize that you are never really finished with any car).
This year I managed to get my suspension pretty close to where I want it along with a new wheel/tire combo.

My main goal before I can give up on making the car go fast is to get it a 13 second time slip (on street tires, ideally). I'd love for the car to be a solid 13 sec car in any weather but right now I'm so busy and torn between projects that I'd settle for any 13 second slip in ideal weather.
I'm pretty sure my current setup is capable of hitting 13s with drag radials and cool weather.... but sadly this year I had no drag radials and raced on the hottest and most humid day of the year, LOL.
So over the winter I will install the 2400 stall converter I've had for awhile and likely program the car for 93 octane (as opposed to 89 octane). This will hopefully net me the 13 sec slip in cool spring weather.

The converter will also hopefully cure the 'flat' spots I feel in my power band that I occasionally feel off idle. It's as much as a "feel better" mod as it is a go fast mod since the car doesn't get off the line like it should even with 3.73s and short tires. Launching at the track will be next to impossible, I'm afraid, so I really hope that I can borrow some drag tires instead of needing to purchase some.

In the next few weeks I have an interior dash emblem, pad, tranny temp gauge, and billet bits and pieces to add.

You did get a new tune with the new cam right?

DaveSmed called it when he mentioned SCAVENGING.

Eons ago, when the local M-B club I belonged to, had a factory rep answer the questions about changing mufflers in Mercedes.

The factory rep was running a 220SEb, I think, and he took laps around the Indianapolis Motor Speedway with stock muffler and then with a piece of straight pipe in place of the muffler.

Since that happened some decades ago, my memory isn't that sharp now, but I think there was at least a 3 mph difference, FAVORING having the stock muffler in place.

So noise didn't make for speed and the stock muffler was TUNED to the system to SCAVENGE the exhaust and make the most power.

But I must admit the straight pipe version sounded gorgeous when it ran by at over 100.

You DO know that open headers are not the best for power right? No, no backpressure crap or anything like that, but you need some pipe after the collector to ensure the best scavengeng effect. That said, comparisons between a perforated core "straight-through" style muffler (of varying brands) and a plain old piece of pipe actually favored the muffler on the flow bench.

Oh and do dispute the loud vs. fast real easily, remember: turbos quiet down the exhaust considerably. :)


open headers are the BEST for peak power when you look at a dyno graph. backpressure myth, lol.

Open headers have reversion issues though. Which hurts peak power. The problem with tuning for this lies in the fact that the optimal legnth extention depends at the RPM range in which the motor sees the most use. Assuming it's just a dyno mule, it would probably need to be calculated out for the very point that the engine peaks at. I have seen Drag racers come up with a neat "real world" method of tuning extention legenth- cheap spray paint. They bolt on a ovbiously too long extention, and rattle can it. Then they try to avoid running the engine much in the staging lanes until their up. After they make thier pass, they shut the car off and look underneath. The spot all the paint burnt off the pipe is where it needs to be cut to best suit thier needs.

That's genious! I suppose where every last HP counts, that's the most effective method. I always just assumed Tri-Y's and longtubes for torquer engines, shorties for high horsepower, and a large enough pipe.

Are there any real advantages of the tubular front arms?

Other than the cool factor, I'm not sure there is an advantage. :confused:

You did get a new tune with the new cam right?

Oh yeah.
I've had several tunes since my cam went in back in 2003. Current tune is for shorter tires, 3.73s, firm shifts, cam + springs/rockers, cooler fan temps, etc....

Original tune was pcmforless but now is corrected by madz28.com