But I'm at the last step of the Chevy small block put-back-together. All I've got left to do is adjust the rocker arms, put the covers on and hook up the fuel and battery.
How do I do the rocker arms? I've never done a chevy or ford before, and Mopar is super simple. Bolt it on and go.
Stupid question, I should know it being a car guy, but finding 0 degrees without a timing mark...I do believe that's the first step...but if someone could walk me through it I'd be greatly appreciative. I might even give REP POINTS!!!
11-15-06, 04:13 PM
Solid lifter Cam or hydraulic...?
11-15-06, 04:16 PM
And I am plagerizing here.. sue me...
Where the Hell is TDC ?
How do we know exactly where this TDC point is anyway? Well, to do this we need to put a circular degree wheel on the end of the crankshaft that has 360 marks, one for each degree of crankshaft movement as well as marks for TDC (zero degrees) and BDC (180 degrees). BDC is bottom dead center, where the piston is as far away from the cylinder head as possible. A piece of wire can be manipulated into place to align up with the TDC mark (zero degrees).
The best way to find the exact TDC is to use an adjustable mechanical stop that screws into the the spark plug hole. Put the motor at a point near to where you think TDC is i.e. both valves are closed and screw in the mechanical TDC stop. Gently screw in the adjustable portion of the stop till it contacts the top of the piston and lock it down. From this point you can gently turn the motor clockwise and counterclockwise until it gently hits this stop. Note these two degree figures, split the difference, and put the wire on the new TDC point (zero degrees). Rotate the engine cw and ccw again to verify that the mechanical stop hits the piston the same number of degrees before and after TDC (BTDC, ATDC). Adjust the wire you've arranged as a pointer, if necessary, to point to the TDC mark. You've now found TDC! Ground zero in your search for truth.
11-15-06, 04:22 PM
And for a decent walk through with pretty pictures... (Hydraulic lifter motor)
Small Block Rebuild Walk Through (http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/350.html)
Hydraulic lifter...84 GMC 3/4 ton.
Ok...I'm on my way out the door, and I'll get back up and read those later tonight, but here's where I'm at. Tell me if its right, eh? :)
I've got the rotor pointing at the number one cylinder in the distributor and the valves on the number one hole in the engine are NOT moving. That means they're closed and that those valves are ready for adjustment, along with the other valves which are closed, which the book will tell me which ones they aren. That's the way I understood what was in my crappy chiltons manual. I'm not going to be doing it till morning cause I just got a call and have to hit the road for a few hours, but I'll check back in here later on tonight...
HitMoney...I've seen that description before...humorous and useful...where is it from again?
11-15-06, 04:53 PM
There is no adjusting valves on a hydraulic motor, just pump up the lifters.
Well there is initial adjustment I guess for the lifters... called pre-loading.
When building a fresh engine, pre-adjust all the rockers to the point where there is no free play in the pushrods.
Rotate the engine a few times while doing this so all the pushrods have no free play while on the base circle of the cam.
You don’t want to adjust for free play while the cam is trying to open the valve corresponding to that particular rocker
The write up is from here...
the second link I posted, Small Block Rebuild Walk Through , should get you through. It is pretty easy, especially on hydraulic motors.
Here is another persons write up on the procedure.... eh, call me lazy.
Preloading lifter procedure (http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.camaro.firebird/browse_thread/thread/6e49d11ade5eb4a5/bb464ef5ec1657c0%23bb464ef5ec1657c0)
11-16-06, 12:05 AM
You need to center the lifter in its range of adjustment. On the SBC I usually rotate the cam so the lifter i'm messing with is on the base circle, then I spin the pushrod while tightening down the rocker. once you get the pushrod to stop spinning, go about 1/2 turn more.