http://homepage.mac.com/n0dih/.Public/Tuning/70-100.3gp

http://homepage.mac.com/n0dih/.Public/Tuning/75-100.3gp

Just playing on the way to work.

The 75-100 was 3rd gear and romp on it.

The 70-100 was 4th gear and romp on it...

Now, a friend of mine just picked up a CTS-V, how will it compare?

Interesting.. my car seems to jump and scream if I romp on it at almost any speed. 55-100mph comes up pretty fast. If I romp on it from a stop and I have traction control off, the car goes wild. I have to get a vid.

Impressive ... the vid and the sound! Nuff said.

Wow that thing pulls in 3rd! Even in 4th, it puts my 4.9 to shame, God that car is slow from 80-100...0-100 for the '92 DTS is 26.4 seconds. :( For the LT1 Brougham, it's around 20.


Hmmm....'93 STS v. 94 FWB from a 60 mph roll?


You have the V4P right?

You know, I still think of mine as quite quick, but now that I do pretty much nothing but a lot of highway driving, it DEFINATELY feels best on the open road, and snaps you back with downshifts at higher speeds. Love that feeling:thumbsup:

Really fun, especially since I never go below 75 EVER, and have hit 100 without trying. That's the freakish thing about these cars, because if in strong shape all around, at higher speeds they almost seem quieter and eerily fast than at any other time. Kinda like my 97mph "accident" once, when all I meant to do was get around a bus...:)

By the way, sounds EXACTLY like mine, when I do my theoretical "carbon blowouts" every so often heading to DE and back...virtually silent cruising, but a nice mellow growl under the hammer.

Wow that thing pulls in 3rd! Even in 4th, it puts my 4.9 to shame, God that car is slow from 80-100...0-100 for the '92 DTS is 26.4 seconds. :( For the LT1 Brougham, it's around 20.


Hmmm....'93 STS v. 94 FWB from a 60 mph roll?


You have the V4P right?

Good question. I'd say the STS definately would have more kick the higher the RPM, since it loves to be revved and do it all day long, plus is in a lighter car. But a well tuned Fleetwood is close...very close, in most regards, especially a V4P like N0DIH's.

The N* should do better in the upper rpm range. Being I haven't driven one, I can't say for sure. But ~should~....

Yes, mine is factory V4P car and I have added my tuning to it. I just changed back to stock V4P line pressures from Corvette pressures. It is mixed, one is higher in some rpms, the other, in others. I might mix and match, but for now, the V4P is easier to manage, as it isn't so harsh 1-2 shift. I have my shift times set to 0.25 seconds from 0-43% throttle, else, 0 seconds. I have mixed the perf mode table info into the normal mode >50% throttle. So best of both worlds...

The second vid is a 4th and punch, but it kicks down to 3rd (too high speed to go to 2nd for 3.42's). A 2.93 or 2.56 gear car should kickdown at these higher speeds.

I might try a 0-100 run and video it. That was taken with my Motorola Razr V6 MAXX cell phone (http://www.mobiletracker.net/archives/2006/07/24/motorola-razr-maxx, http://www.gsmarena.com/compare.php3?idPhone2=1120&idPhone1=1649). It doesn't do too badly for a cell phone.... (EDIT: I work on these on the design team, so I am simply bragging! You can't buy them in the US, but they work great on TMobile....)

Yeah, with TC off, the car is wild on traction. I need posi bad. I have tuned mine and the air intake noise has gone down amazingly enough. Less timing helps, and I think is helping power.

My brother and I went head to head once. His 2003 DTS vs my Fleetwood. It was from a stop till around 75mph and I had a good 1.5-2 car lengths on him :thumbsup:

Now he has a 6.0 liter Escalade, talk about torque!! That thing moves for being almost 6,000 lbs.

26-81 mph video of my Fleetwood:

http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/leloz/?action=view&current=Video032.flv

:thumbsup:

Cool! I have to try a 0-100 and tape it....

Anyone with the 305 engine makes similar acceleration videos I would like to see
You have a fast car and enjoy it and thanks for sharing

26-81 mph video of my Fleetwood:

http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/leloz/?action=view&current=Video032.flv

:thumbsup:

Yours definately sounds better, with the combination of Borla & intake. Not at all loud, but just as the stock LT1 should and likely did in the Vette of the same era.

Grandpa and grandma wouldn't want their new Fleetwood to sound like that, though, but they'd probably never accelerate like that either:)

Since I have done more timing changes, the intake noise has dropped off significantly. So it is running harder with less intake noise. Good for me!

And mpg is still holding a solid 19.3 with all the hot rodding. I am definately in the right direction on timing and tuning.

A friend of mine were talking and he agreed, the more efficient the head, the less timing needed. More isn't better. Why lead it soo much that the event is starting to fight the piston travel upwards? We need it to be dead on at the top to be perfectly ideal. Strive for lower timing not more....

Now he has a 6.0 liter Escalade, talk about torque!! That thing moves for being almost 6,000 lbs.

:thumbsup:

Torque? You mean like my 454 in my Suburban? 410 lb/ft @ 3200 rpm, and nearly 400 lb/ft from 1000 rpm to 4000 rpm.... The torque curve is amazing....

For a Chevy, that is really the amazing part....

The Escalade doesn't do too bad being 364 cubic inches and getting 380 ft/lbs of torque. 0-60 in 8 second and 1/4 mile in 15.9!

nice videos guys, id love to see the whole two minutes my 85 brougham HT4100 would do 0-100 in... maybe ill post a video for laughs haha

26-81 mph video of my Fleetwood:

http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j69/leloz/?action=view&current=Video032.flv

:thumbsup:


Very nice!! It's always amusing to see these really fast runs on a digital dash!

Please post acceleration vids! It is just cool to see how other rides do.

The BaD Bodies club is doing a last drag day up at Bryon Raceway before it closes for winter. 11/26 in Byron, IL. Anyone game?

Ok, here are some acceleration runs I've videotaped...

Here's that '99 ETC I drove last monday. 0-55 in 5.x seconds!
http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Chadillac8705/?action=view&current=0-55run99ETC.flv

0-60 in my '92 deVille.
http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j313/Chadillac8705/?action=view&current=mycars0-60MOV.flv

I'll try to do a 0-60 or maybe a 0-100 run and see how it does.

Did you have Traction Control on with the ETC? How is the ETC for TC, does it yank the throttle back, or is it just massive timing retard? The Fleetwood is Timing yank, Throttle yank and apply brake of offending wheel. Without a doubt, a very agressive TC....

With the ETC, I didn't mess around with it at all, so I don't know. I floored it down an onramp in a different part of the test drive and it spun the tires and said "traction engaged", so my guess is it was originally off, but then the computer overrode it and kicked it in. But I don't know how those things work.. It seemed like timing retard, not the system that the Fleetwoods have where it pushes back on the go pedal.

Part of me misses the old straight-line speedos. Classic GM.
And part of me just LOVES digital dashes (it's fun to see the "bar graph" in my '84 'Vette peg out). I'm still watching that '82 Fleetwood 75... one would think a "Commercial Chassis" car should have some stones... what speedos did the commercial chassis get in 82?

Please post acceleration vids! It is just cool to see how other rides do.

I'll have to see if I can get some video of my FW.

I actually have some of my Caprice I captured for someone's request to hear the exhaust. I just need to transfer it from my camera.



The BaD Bodies club is doing a last drag day up at Bryon Raceway before it closes for winter. 11/26 in Byron, IL. Anyone game?

Here is the thread to follow along:
http://s3.phpbbforfree.com/forums/badbodies-about410.html

Sadly, I won't be making it. Byron is a haul for me and I think with all the projects I have going on right now I had better retire from racing for the season. I can't afford to break anything else right now. :eek:
The good news, NODIH, is that we have a couple of new FW owners show up to the last drag day so you wouldn't be alone most likely...

Cool, I hope I can make it. How sticky is the track in those temps? Do they prep the track well?

I've been thinking of selling my '90 Brougham for an LT1... this just pushes me closer.

Get an LT1 and drop it in the 90! It would be very rare and best of both worlds....

Keep the '90, buy some AFR or Vortec heads and a cam. Headers if you feel like it.

I've been thinking of selling my '90 Brougham for an LT1... this just pushes me closer.

I wouldn't. The LT1 Brougham just doesn't have that pizzazz that your 90 does. Its not a flashy, as flamboyant. It's faster yes, but not as "Cadillacy". If you want a faster Brougham, just modify the TBI350 in there. Theres a lot of aftermarket for that too.

I like my 94, but I also like the 92 and older too.

Anything you can do to a 94-96 suspension, power, etc wise you can do to a 92 and older (93 too, not to exlude the 93 owners...)

Get some decent heads, a bit bigger cam (LT4 stock cam would be my choice...), good PCM programming, good exhaust with x-pipe, FE2/FE4 sway bars/springs from Fleetwood FE2 or Impala FE4 (depending on your ride height you desire), a good performance alignment, Bilsteins and you will love it like you have loved no other car....

N0DIH, with those mods, what would he be making for horsepower? 250-270?

If it was me?

1. Vortec heads (you can't beat the low lift airflow, period, these heads rock!)
2. Matching intake for the vortec heads (Edelbrock?)
3. LT4 cam
4. high flow exhaust/shorty headers or better
5. lots of tuning to make it sweet
= solid 330hp+

Honestly for the heavy cars a 383 would be better to boost torque up. The problem with the LT4 cam is torque in the low can fall off some. The answer? 3.42 to 3.73 gears. I highly recommend a S10 converter with it. Stalling around 2000-2200 would be recommended.

"You don't know the power of the vortec heads" - Darth Vader on the Vortecs....

I like my 94, but I also like the 92 and older too.

Anything you can do to a 94-96 suspension, power, etc wise you can do to a 92 and older (93 too, not to exlude the 93 owners...)

Get some decent heads, a bit bigger cam (LT4 stock cam would be my choice...), good PCM programming, good exhaust with x-pipe, FE2/FE4 sway bars/springs from Fleetwood FE2 or Impala FE4 (depending on your ride height you desire), a good performance alignment, Bilsteins and you will love it like you have loved no other car....

And the older body style is almost 10 percent lighter.

Where did the 93-96's gain the weight?

Wow, I wasn't expecting this response lol. There's a lot of still I could do to make the '90 faster I guess, but I feel like I would be just catching up to what a LT1 would already have, know what I mean? Sometimes the lack of mid to high end power it has depresses me, I mean if I'm doing; lets say 35, and want to get through a yellow light in time, with most newer cars you can just put the pedal down and get through. With the '90, unless you practically floor it and get it to downshift, you'll just keep cruising along, it hardly notices you touched the pedal.

Also, after driving an '06 Impala to Michigan and back, the '90 seems like it shifts sort of hard. If you stand on it from a stop and keep it at WOT, it seems like it doesn't want to shift into second gear, I mean it does it, but you can really hear it revving high before it goes. I'm scared shitless I'm going to have tranny trouble. Is this normal for that model transmission?

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying I hate the car and think there's nothing to be done to get more power, it's just little things like that which push me closer to a triple black '95 Brougham with black leather and a black cloth top. (I looked at one and almost bought it when I got my '96 Deville, yes I was dumb.)

If anybody can tell me something about the trans. that would be great.

What engine does your 90 have? 350, 305 or 307?

The 350.

Plenty power from a stop, not much over 30.

Some LT1 mods (much can be done the same to the non LT1 SB too)
http://compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-227410332
http://compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-517323008
http://compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-835015532

Not cheap, but will make a 350 a 383 and very fast....

That's odd, because of well over 3 years with our '93 350 TBI, I can honestly say that car feels like a beast throughout the speed range. Maybe not as free and easy at really higher speeds like my LT1, but it definately feels a tad torquier sometimes and just pulls like a turbine the whole time.

But again, in typical driving, it isn't a motor that comes off as "zippy" or much of a revver, which the LT1 is a bit more of...that kinda helps with the power impression, too.

There's a lot of still I could do to make the '90 faster I guess, but I feel like I would be just catching up to what a LT1 would already have, know what I mean?


I know exactly what you mean. Take for example a 1995 Town Car. It's almost as good as a LT1 FWB, except for one thing. Power. The FWB is a high 15 second car, the TC is a mid 16 (and your 350 Brougham is a low 17) It would take some money and time to get a SOHC 4.6 TC to the power level that an LT1 Brougham starts at.

I have a '90 Brougham with the Olds 307. Is there any hope of getting power with this?

Right now I'm snailing from stop lights, and have to floor it just to get 1mph up every two seconds on the highway (especially over 70).

I want to at least be able to pass people and be put in the back of my seat.

Damn.. and I thought I had it bad.

I've never heard of 307 mods, maybe an Olds forum might know something?

Sorry to say, but the 307 is pretty much an unmodifiable motor from what's been discussed on here. I believe it had something to do with the heads..the valves aren't big enough to flow well or something along those lines. I'm sorry I couldn't provide more information, but there are many on here that can.

If you've got a 307, this is worth a read.

http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofe307.htm

307's aren't hopeless. People preach the bore is too small to breathe, the heads are too puny (at least from 1985-1990), and the usual. Tell that to a 302 Ford owner. Even a 289 could be made to do pretty well.

307 Olds, get some 80-84 307 heads and intake. This all works perfect with the existing PCM. Get a set of cast iron manifolds (only if you have the tubular steel manifolds, which only work on the small port 307 and 260). Make duals, see if you can adapt a LT1 exhaust crossover, or you can run dual 2.25" pipes down the pass side. If you need cats, you will need to stagger them. I would recommend adpating heated O2 from the LT1 (4 wire are best), just need switched 12v power to the O2 sensor to warm it, else it operates the same, just allows you to put the O2 farther away from the engine. Cats still need to be as close as you can, but my 454 has one almost 5 feet from the engine with no issues.

Being you have a roller cam, you don't have much choice in a cam, factory had 2 grinds ("Y" and "9" cam from the 442, made 180 hp on a 307 with the larger ports, 170 with the smaller), or if you have lots of $$, visit Mondello. Most roller grinds are stout, so you will need a mild one. Don't run a cam as large as 204/214 @ 0.050 unless you have 9:1 or higher compression (trust me on that one...), keep it small, 196/205 would be a much better choice.

Get a handful of Q-Jet metering rods and dial in a WOT O2 reading of 0.88v to 0.9v. This will help some top end power. O2's are really accurate there, but it is a general rule that does seem to work.

Bump up initial timing with the new cam, you will need it, but you may run into issues with part throttle pinging. So make sure EGR is fully functional, and you might need to switch to a ported EGR valve, as the stock positive backpressure EGR won't operate well and will cause more part throttle lean cruising and pinging problems. (when EGR kicks in it increases 2-5 degrees more timing and leans out the fuel mix)

Find a 3.73 axle (I have found 2 on Car-Part.com for around $350 complete just yesterday, they might even be posi's) to better match the cam and get some bottom end back.

Now, something I found (now got sent to a junkyard be new owner of car...) was an 82 Olds 307 intake had some sort of positions for port fuel injectors (not the bosses, just the positions). With the 80-84 intake, you can get a welding shop to put in bosses for EFI, get a PCM like a 305/350 TPI MAF type and make it a full EFI car. Then you will have the best of all worlds.

Now, are you gonna make 300 hp? No, unless you want the car undriveable. 225-240 is realistic if attention is paid to the details. To make more you really need to raise the redline of the engine and spin it faster. That will be lots of $$ to rebuild the bottom end, hypereutectic or forged pistions, 350 rods (or aftermarket SBC 6.0" rods, as 307 rods are wimpy, don't use Diesel rods, they are 5.85 and heavy heavy heavy), balanced, med to low tension rings, etc. You can drop a lot of money into a bottom end to make it reliable and rev happy. Make it all as light as you can...

That is what I would do if I was set on working with a 307. Honestly, ditch the 307 and go 350 or 403 and do the same, and you will see much larger gains...

NODIH,

Wow, you are a wealth of information! This is one of the reasons I like this site so well. I like mine all stock, but for someone who wants to upgrade, they'd know exactly what to do.

JRau in central Iowa

Ah, I knew N0DIH would come in to give the correct information!

Cool, I hope I can make it. How sticky is the track in those temps? Do they prep the track well?

I know GLD has been laying down some really crazy super-stick the last couple of weeks since pretty much only hard core racers come out when the temps are this low -- mainly to accomplish their personal bests since air temp is so cool.

As for Byron, I've never been there myself so I don't know what it is like. But assuming the weather holds up then I'm sure some of our guys will be there.

I don't know beans about the Olds motor, but the other night I was watching tractor pulls on RFDTV.
The announcer and his buddies were noting how one particular entrant was using 4 of those motors on his pulling machine. What is notable is that they said the Olds motor is DARN NEAR BULLETPROOF and that's why they would make a good motor for high-revving (screaming) pulling machines.

Olds typically had good high nickel blocks and good quality machining (very tight tolerances, about 2x tighter than how Toyota does them now), which was key to the long life. They had good heads when Mondello was working for GM, but later on GM started runining them in the 70's (J heads come to mind, but they DID have great low lift flow, but sucked over 0.300 lift...). The W30 and W31 heads did pretty well for the era.

In reality people almost never destroyed Olds engines unless they were abusing them. They did have a run of block problems (lifter valley cracks) in 86, which may have been like that in later years too. These were the Mexico blocks. The US blocks didn't have issues. They used Nodular iron cranks even. Steel cranks were available too. FACTORY.... Some towing packages showed up with killer parts...

I'll have to see if I can get some video of my FW.

I actually have some of my Caprice I captured for someone's request to hear the exhaust. I just need to transfer it from my camera.



I didn't my Caprice vid online but instead here is a video of my modded Fleetwood running from about 20mph to 79mph. The road was really slick from light rain so I was only using about half-to-three quarter throttle.

Every time the camera jumps a tad is because of firm shifts. :)

Yes, I know the ABS light is on. :thepan: Bad ABS pump solenoid I haven't bothered to fix...

http://www.badbodies.com/videos/bcs71caddy20to79.avi

I'd love to see how that cam opened up would do...

try this on a car without digital dash (were there any fleetwoods w/o it even?)

Alright now you guys gave me an assignment. I'll give it a try this weekend if it stops raining

Olds typically had good high nickel blocks and good quality machining (very tight tolerances, about 2x tighter than how Toyota does them now), which was key to the long life. They had good heads when Mondello was working for GM, but later on GM started runining them in the 70's (J heads come to mind, but they DID have great low lift flow, but sucked over 0.300 lift...). The W30 and W31 heads did pretty well for the era.

In reality people almost never destroyed Olds engines unless they were abusing them. They did have a run of block problems (lifter valley cracks) in 86, which may have been like that in later years too. These were the Mexico blocks. The US blocks didn't have issues. They used Nodular iron cranks even. Steel cranks were available too. FACTORY.... Some towing packages showed up with killer parts...

Not to push this further off topic from the Fleetwood, but all very interesting--ESPECIALLY with my brother's recent purchase of an '86 Buick Regal LTD with the Olds 307.

73k miles, and it looks and runs like it, but it had been sitting with some really nasty oil for a while, and after initially having some pretty bad smoking issues (seem to have gone away with a lot of driving and 3+ oil & filter changes), it's still burning a lot of oil. We think the drain passages in the heads are clogged, but haven't had a chance to get in there yet--just the best guess, based on what I've read from other people's experiences with the 307 on the engine thread here. Even so with that oil issue, the darn thing is extremely smooth and has a lot more grunt that even I was expecting.

Well, there's for me going off topic...all this makes me really want to get the Fleetwood out on the open road and clear out some short town trip carbon:thumbsup:

The Olds V8 oil drains are in the far left and right of the head IIRC, so valve covers come off. PLEASE do not screw up the valve covers and put gaskets on. They are NOT designed for gaskets, just RTV like Ultra Grey, and follow directions on the RTV and snug up gently to NOT destroy the standoffs that keep you from overtightening the RTV.

You may ultimately need to pull the intake off to clean the lifter valley. The 1986 Olds V8s were shifted to the Mexico plant and were prone to lifter valley cracking. Likely 86-90 were all Hencho in Mexico blocks. The more desired 307 blocks were 81-85. And the 81-84 "5A" heads drastically outflowed the 7A heads on the 85-90 blocks...

Synthetic does a very good job and cleaning (Group IV synethics that is, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline), they might help.

The Olds V8 oil drains are in the far left and right of the head IIRC, so valve covers come off. PLEASE do not screw up the valve covers and put gaskets on. They are NOT designed for gaskets, just RTV like Ultra Grey, and follow directions on the RTV and snug up gently to NOT destroy the standoffs that keep you from overtightening the RTV.

You may ultimately need to pull the intake off to clean the lifter valley. The 1986 Olds V8s were shifted to the Mexico plant and were prone to lifter valley cracking. Likely 86-90 were all Hencho in Mexico blocks. The more desired 307 blocks were 81-85. And the 81-84 "5A" heads drastically outflowed the 7A heads on the 85-90 blocks...

Synthetic does a very good job and cleaning (Group IV synethics that is, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline), they might help.

You don't KNOW how awesome that information is. I had read before that the valve covers on the 307's don't have gaskets, and tried to explain that to my father last night on the phone after he mentioned he bought a set for it "but the holes do look like they're in different spots" (BINGO--light bulb moment, just like I knew from before...will be calling him soon).

The drain holes were just one thing he's aware of from reading what I sent them, and pulling off the intake has also been mentioned to clean that out.

That said, I never knew anything about the Mexico deal, and this is perfect info to know...especially the back up to the "no gaskets" deal. In tearing apart, he likely would have noticed, but still I shall re-inform. Typically wonderful auto parts store giving a part for something that doesn't exist:rolleyes:

People very often put gaskets on like old school, and it will work, but I have had 100% success without gaskets on my 307 and 350 Olds. A little fussier to put on, it worked well.

IIRC you put a 1/4" bead of Ultra Grey (best stuff, very similar to what Olds used) let it dry for a bit (all depends on temp and humidity), then install, that is the tricky part to install without damaging the rtv. Snug bolts, pretty much almost no torque on them. Just snug against the stops (the little tiny metal pricks coming out of the cover to stop you from tightening the RTV too tight). Let sit till RTV is cured.

If you wanna try and clean up some of that oil gunk, pour a can of Seafoam into the oil. Works pretty well, used it on Ruthie's Tercel.

my brother's recent purchase of an '86 Buick Regal LTD with the Olds 307.

some pretty bad smoking issues , it's still burning a lot of oil. We think the drain passages in the heads are clogged,


My dad had an 83 Cutlass with the 307. He had oil burning issues and smoking out of the tailpipe so he and I replaced the valve stem seals on the passenger side of the engine. He planned to do the driver's side when he felt like it (lot more stuff to remove on that side of the car) but in reality it wasn't really necessary since the new seals cured the oil burning issue along with the smoking he had. His car only had about 80K miles on it at the time.
He also had issues of fouling the plugs immediately (oil) until the stem seals were changed.

My dad had an 83 Cutlass with the 307. He had oil burning issues and smoking out of the tailpipe so he and I replaced the valve stem seals on the passenger side of the engine. He planned to do the driver's side when he felt like it (lot more stuff to remove on that side of the car) but in reality it wasn't really necessary since the new seals cured the oil burning issue along with the smoking he had. His car only had about 80K miles on it at the time.
He also had issues of fouling the plugs immediately (oil) until the stem seals were changed.

Interesting. Now that it's being driven quite a few days a week and on the highway, my father had said neither he nor my brother have seen anymore smoke--but it's still burning an awful lot of oil. They know something is wrong up top, but just haven't had the time to tear into it yet and explore.

I'll add that item to the list to mention, though, because any information from people with the same engine is always very informative.

Anyone run Seafoam in the gas tank? Did it help the injectors or the chamber deposits that way?

Anyone run Seafoam in the gas tank? Did it help the injectors or the chamber deposits that way?

Hmm, good question.

I didn't my Caprice vid online but instead here is a video of my modded Fleetwood running from about 20mph to 79mph. The road was really slick from light rain so I was only using about half-to-three quarter throttle.

Every time the camera jumps a tad is because of firm shifts. :)

Yes, I know the ABS light is on. :thepan: Bad ABS pump solenoid I haven't bothered to fix...

http://www.badbodies.com/videos/bcs71caddy20to79.avi

BCs71,

What have you done for mods? I really like the way your just gets up and goes. I will post a video of mine here pretty soon...of course it is bone stock, except for straight pipes. I have the cats on still, just something cheap until I can afford real exhaust. I like the sound too! :bouncy: I can't pm you since I don't have 50 posts yet, so this is the way I do it. Thanks! I am trying to do some mods to my car, but I want to get it right. I can;t afford any now since I am hopping up my Harley. I will probably do some mods next summer to the car, but for now, stock with straight pipes.

BBB

BCs71,

What have you done for mods? I really like the way your just gets up and goes. I like the sound too! :bouncy:


Thanks! :D

Mod list is here: http://www.badbodies.com/members/bcs71.htm

I can elaborate on things if not clear in that listing.
The exhaust is pretty tame, and choked up to boot. I think I could squeak a 13 second timeslip in perfect weather and good traction (maybe drag radials necessary) but with some exhaust work I'm pretty sure I can manage 13 seconds no problem. I kinda like the subdued tone so I am fighting having to open her up. :banghead:
After this winter I should be able to hit the pavement with my new torque converter installed and a PCM tune for 93 octane, then 13 seconds should be no sweat!

Thanks! :D

Mod list is here: http://www.badbodies.com/members/bcs71.htm



What do you get for mileage with those mods? I am looking to run 13's in the quarter also, but be able to drive home afterwards and still get 20+mpg.

BBB

What do you get for mileage with those mods? I am looking to run 13's in the quarter also, but be able to drive home afterwards and still get 20+mpg.

BBB


I've never been able to squeak the advertised 17mpg city out of this car, even when it was stock and with 2.93 gears.
But right now I get between 14-15 mpg with mostly city driving. This is about the same as before the mods. After a torque converter I expect this MPG to get worse (hey, gotta compromise somewhere). Opening the exhaust theoretically could increase mpg, however.

I've never had it on a pure highway trip, so can't comment there. But it easily does 20mpg or better.

To put my 14-15 city mpg in perspective, I have an LT1 Caprice that is basically stock and low mileage in great running shape (maintenance up to par) and I get very similar MPG doing the same route back and forth to work with 16mpg being the absolute best I can squeak out. So I just think the Chicagoland area roads (stoplights, hills, traffic, etc) all influence MPG to just be plain bad. :mad:

Okay here a clip of mine gettin to a 100... click me (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ao3XByX8fsk)

Nice acceleration!

A friend of mine just got a 2005 CTS-V, we'll have to see how it does....

Okay here a clip of mine gettin to a 100... click me (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ao3XByX8fsk)