: Sedan Deville Diag Codes: How to interpret?



joedeville91
02-28-04, 03:07 PM
(Sedan DeVille 1991 4.9):

Codes:
E41: Cam Sensor Signal Problem
E98: High RPM P/N to D/R Shift Under ISC

Before I go to a garage (Northern Virginia/DC), I'd like to get some ballpark idea about the price, so I don't get 'squeezed'.

Also, are these two issues something I must fix ASAP, or can I wait a few weeks?

Thanks!!!


joedeville91

Koz
04-10-04, 07:34 PM
hey go to a palm reader youll have just as much luck as asking a caddy dealer ,the dash board should tell you instead of #s popping up, but thats just my opinion
by a Hyundai with a 100,000mile warranty instead of a caddy that is $50,000 and a shit waranty.caddy is on its way out
it was a good car when it had 500 cubes and when it looked like a caddy

Mitch3
04-10-04, 10:04 PM
I wish I could interpret those codes. I have the same problem with the Eldorado. I get these strange codes but can't figure out what they mean. I just got one that said CHECK OIL LESS. What the heck does that mean. Stay away from the Caddy dealers and scout around your area for a garage that really knows the older Caddies. I guarantee you they are out there and they know a lot more about the older cars than the dealers do.

I liked the response you got from KOZ !!!! Keep in mind that he is six years older than I am. We come from the era of white wheel tires and lots of heavy chrome. What we don't remember is that those cars rusted out in about three years and almost never saw 100,000 miles. At about 12 cents a gallon we didn't care that we only got 10 to 15 miles per gallon of gas. I just got my 1994 Eldorado six months ago and wouldn't trade it for anything. First Cadillac I've ever owned. My wife drives (or I should say owns) a Volvo and can't keep it out of the repair shop. Thank you Cadillac

BeelzeBob
04-12-04, 01:00 AM
(Sedan DeVille 1991 4.9):

Codes:
E41: Cam Sensor Signal Problem
E98: High RPM P/N to D/R Shift Under ISC

Before I go to a garage (Northern Virginia/DC), I'd like to get some ballpark idea about the price, so I don't get 'squeezed'.

Also, are these two issues something I must fix ASAP, or can I wait a few weeks?

Thanks!!!


joedeville91


First thing is to ignore KOZ...he is an idiot. If he really knew anything he would help you and provide usefull info instead of his nonsense comments. The Cadillac onboard diagnostic system is the most powerful onboard diagnostic system in the industry...bar none. If KOZ knew how to use it he wouldn't even consider making the comments that he did...

Second, with a 4.9 you might get quicker info posting in the 4.1/4.5/4.9 section instead of the Northstar section....completely different engines and codes.

Sounds like the cam position sensor is failed. That is located in the base of the distributor. Look at the distributor and you will see a squarish lump in the shaft of the distributor below the base/cap of the distributor. That is where the cam position sensor is at. There is a cover with wires coming out of it. That is what needs to be replaced. Not that easy to get to but it doesn't take a rocket scientist either. Couple of hundred $$$ tops I would say for the part and labor for a ballpark guess. The part is a simple R&R...nothing to adjust or reset or anything....just take the "cover" off and install the new one.

When the cam position sensor fails it puts the sytem into a back operational mode...a nice system redundancy that is built in to keep the engine running in the event of a component failure courtesy of that onboard diagnostic system. That may be causing the "high idle on the garage shift" code that you are also getting. I would repair the cam postition sensor first, clear the codes and see if the E98 returns. If it does it may signal an idle speed control motor that is getting weak or something like that.....

Has the throttle body ever been cleaned on the car?? It would be due to have the throttle body cleaned and the EGR tubes cleaned out. Easy to do it yourself. Engine off, take the air cleaner off the throttle body and hold the blades wide open. Spray the throttle bores with carb cleaner and scrub the bores (below the blades is where we are interested in...) with an old toothbrush to clean the deposits off. Clean the backside of the throttle blades also. The two tubes sticking up at you from the floor of the manifold are the EGR tubes and are NOT supposed to be full of carbon and crud. Rod them out with a stiff piece of wire until they are clean all the way thru. After cleaning the throttle body, disconnect the battery negative terminal for 30 seconds to reset the idle learn offsets to the clean throttle body default values. That is all that is required.