: NS300L Insert kit



richbanta
10-26-06, 08:55 PM
I think I am going to try the NS300L inserts. The inserts themselves are a standard 5/8-11 thread so I am just going to order the inserts themselves at 8.75 each, and buy a 17/32 drill and the taps soemwhere else (much cheaper). It works out to $187.00 for inserts, including shipping. I got the taps and drill for about $20 total. The only thing that concerns me is drilling into an aluminum hole with threads already present. I am afraid that the drill may catch and pull itself in. I can keep it from drilliling too deep by just dulling the chisel point of the bit. I think that if I radius the outside cutting edge of the drill bit itself, it should keep it from catching and pulling itself in. Any ideas or concerns? Thanks. ( I used to work for a living as a machinist/tool and die maker before practicing law!)

Ranger
10-26-06, 09:52 PM
The Timeserts get swaged at the bottom on insertion to aid in holding. How about the NS300L's? Are you going to make a guide for depth and alignment or attempt it by hand? personqally, this is not something I would want to do twice. Seems to me you are talking about saving around $150. Not sure I'd chance it.

zonie77
10-26-06, 10:01 PM
Have you looked at the pics of the timesert drill and the NS300L drill? If that's all they've done then you'd be set.

dkozloski
10-27-06, 12:04 AM
I think I am going to try the NS300L inserts. The inserts themselves are a standard 5/8-11 thread so I am just going to order the inserts themselves at 8.75 each, and buy a 17/32 drill and the taps soemwhere else (much cheaper). It works out to $187.00 for inserts, including shipping. I got the taps and drill for about $20 total. The only thing that concerns me is drilling into an aluminum hole with threads already present. I am afraid that the drill may catch and pull itself in. I can keep it from drilliling too deep by just dulling the chisel point of the bit. I think that if I radius the outside cutting edge of the drill bit itself, it should keep it from catching and pulling itself in. Any ideas or concerns? Thanks. ( I used to work for a living as a machinist/tool and die maker before practicing law!)
Sharpen the drill like you would for drilling brass or plastic. Flatten the face of the cutting edge so it won't dig in. This is just about the first thing I learned as an apprentice machinist 50 years ago.

richbanta
10-27-06, 02:36 AM
The Timeserts get swaged at the bottom on insertion to aid in holding. How about the NS300L's? Are you going to make a guide for depth and alignment or attempt it by hand? personqally, this is not something I would want to do twice. Seems to me you are talking about saving around $150. Not sure I'd chance it.
My experience with inserts in other items is that as long as you use the proper lock tite, it aint going nowhere but the only time you might run intoa problem is if you remove the head again. The insert may want to come out when you remove the head bolt. I cant see really a problem there. As far as alignment and depth goes, if you grind the chisel point of the drill flat, it cant go any deeper than the hole that is already there. The drill will always follow the old hole so as far as alignment goes, should be no problem. Using an alignment plate will not stop that. The only way to make sure it would be going in straigt, assuming the alignment plate and the hole are not in the same place would be to use a boring mill, mount the block on the table, indicate the alignment hole and plunge out using an end mill. You really cant move a hole once its already there with a drill. The only time alignment may be critical is tapping the hole. A block can be used for that. Just get a piece of flat stock aluminum, about an inch or so thick and drill a hole just a little bit bigger then the tap or just be carefull starting the tap.

richbanta
10-27-06, 02:40 AM
Have you looked at the pics of the timesert drill and the NS300L drill? If that's all they've done then you'd be set.
I am not sure what you mean by " If thats all they've done"?

zonie77
10-27-06, 11:41 AM
I meant what you said...

The guru said he drilled them without the guide and since you have experience you shouldn't have a problem. Anyone who is careful shouldn't have a problem. It would take coming in at an angle with a lot of force to get the hole off enough to ruin it. Doing it in the car is the only scenario I could think of that might give you that situation.

I think the guide is there as insurance, not necessity.