Hi, I'm wanting to upgrade my brakes on my Caddy. What do you think of these?? Should I get them? If not, do you know of any places I can buy cross drilled and slotted rotors for my car??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459517979

Oh yeah, I talked to the guy, he said all 4 of those rotors for $230.00
Should I go for it??? I got an estimate at a brake shop and the quoted me $130-$150 for each rotor.

I bought 4 cross drilled, slotted rotors for my 2000 STS for $175 on eBay. I haven't recieved them yet, but I'll let you know how they work out! I would like to use the EBC Green stuff brake pads. Does anyone know if they fit the 98-up STS?

Yeah, I'm getting the EBC Green stuff pads too. The guy that's putting my rotors on is going to order me a set. They'll be $96.00 for each set. Front/Rear.
I heard some really good things about these pads and I'm gonna put them on with my new rotors.

What is the part number for the ones for the STS? Also, do you know how to bypass the pad wear sensors that are on the stock pads?

I'm not sure about the part number or how to bypass the sensors. I'll call the guy tomorrow and let him order them and I'll ask for the number. I'll post it up as soon as I get it.

Tomorrow I'm supposed to get my Rotors, so I should be able to find out about the EBC Pads. Hopefully they'll be on by Friday. :bouncy:

I have the part numbers: DP21100 for the fronts, and DP21621 for the rear. Now I have to find a place that sells them!

I'm not sure about the part number or how to bypass the sensors. I'll call the guy tomorrow and let him order them and I'll ask for the number. I'll post it up as soon as I get it.

Aftermarket pads for your car "should have" the notches for the wear sensors. But if you happen to find pads without the notches, just tie-wrap the entire sensor and harness back onto itself out of the way.

Or, if your wear sensors have been ground down, just cut the sensor wire harness back close to the first chassis connector and twist the wires together. Cover the bare wire with a wire nut just to be tidy.

Make yourself a reminder to check the fluid level in the master cylinder periodically because your "early warning" system for brake pads has been disabled.

Well, my car is at the shop now getting the rotors and pads put on. Come to find out, the EBC pads do not have the notch for the sensors, but I don't mind. I'll be getting the car back tomorrow. I can't wait.:bouncy: Any suggestions for break in?? I'm thinkin I should go easy for at least 200-300 miles.

.... Any suggestions for break in?? I'm thinkin I should go easy for at least 200-300 miles.

New pads should be bedded in with 10+ hard stops (just short of ABS intervention) from ~~ 45 MPH. You want to get the pads hot enough to smoke and you will probably smell the hot brake pads.

Let them cool for an hour and do it again.

Hey guys, I know I'm going to be the party pooper here. So flame on.

But slotted and drilled rotors will give you no performance gain over solid rotors. Do they look better? Yes. But in many cases, they are actually weaker. It used to be, guys would drill rotors for two reasons. One, was to save weight. Honestly, most of us would be better off losing a few pounds (off ourselves), or simply emptying the glove box or trunk. You'll save more weight that way, than by drilling holes in your rotors. Also, let's be honest about our intent. If you want to autocross, or drag race, why in a Seville?

The second reason, is no longer valid. Brakes, when used in high performance (i.e. racing) applications, would suffer from outgassing. The holes in the rotors would allow for the gasseous expansion. This pressure would then be released as the holes moved past the pads. But developments in brake pads has cured this.

The slotted rotors look slick. But for every other reason, solid rotors are better. They last longer, are stronger, and they are a lot less expensive.

For a noticeable and real world improvement in braking, swap out that old fluid for new stuff, go with carbon ceramic pads, and if you really want to get crazy, upgrade to steel lines (save this for last, you won't even want it after the first two "mods").

Flame on.

Well, I agree with you on the strength part, but the rotors I bought don't look like swiss cheese. There are holes, but not a ton of them. I've heard what you said about the vents and holes, and I've also heard that they help with cooling. But, I dunno who to believe. At least they look cool if anything else. And the EBC Green Stuff pads will help anyways.

Well I finally got the brakes finished and I have pics too. Whatcha think?? I'm still breaking them in so I'm not sure how much better these stop but I can tell they don't fade after a long day of city driving in San Diego. Mostly due to the EBS Green Stuff Pads :)

Here's the Front.......

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/12/web/372000-372999/372761_56_full.jpg


......And the rears.http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/12/web/372000-372999/372761_57_full.jpg

Ok, now that I have these rotors on I started to wonder about turning them. When the time comes, how do I do it? I know they can't be turned on a regular brake lathe. I heard they have to be turned on the same machine as a flywheel is?? Is that true?? If so, how much can I expect to pay when I need to do this??

Well, I've had my brakes on for a week almost, but now I'm getting a worse squeel than before. Even a weird low toned sound, (that you hear when you go too far over on the shoulder and those bumps remind you to get back on the road) sometimes. I've noticed it doesn this after a few stops when they are warm. My OEM brakes did this and I was gonna replace just the pads but decided to get the new rotors also. But, I'm having a worse problem. What do I do??

Well, I've had my brakes on for a week almost, but now I'm getting a worse squeel than before. Even a weird low toned sound, (that you hear when you go too far over on the shoulder and those bumps remind you to get back on the road) sometimes. I've noticed it doesn this after a few stops when they are warm. My OEM brakes did this and I was gonna replace just the pads but decided to get the new rotors also. But, I'm having a worse problem. What do I do??

Maybe the folks that did the installation did not put a thin layer of high-temperature grease where the calipers contact the pads. The grease will absorb some of the low frequency pad vibration. Ask the shop foreman if they usually / always do this.

You did "bed" in the new pads and rotors, right??

When you say "bed" you're meaning break-in right?? I did that. Plus I've been taking it easy on them also. When I come off the freeway with a lot of speed I let the transmission slow down the car not the brakes. But city driving is a little harder to go east on them then. Other than that these brakes work good. I can tell there is a lot more "bite" to them, even after they get warm.

Hey speedyman_2 I got those same rotors on ebay and put them on saturday. What`s your status with the rotor because I have been driving with them for two days now and no noise. I hoping not to get that same problem. I running the with oem pads.

Well, I'm having a lot of squeeling and sometimes I can hear a moaning noise. There's grease between the pads and calipers. Nothing on the rotor I don't think. Plus, the rotors are very very slightly warped, but it's hardly noticable. The sqeeling is getting annoying and I don't know what to do. I definately trust the guy who did the install, very good mechanic. I have EBC Pads which stop the car very good ans so far are virtually fade free. Plus, very little dust. I just can't figure out the squeeling.Other than that I love the stopping and the look of these rotors.