: Where does this go on my 307



RocketFast321
10-20-06, 03:03 AM
1. I always wonder where this pipe went. Also is it bad that the thing circle broke off from the down-pipe.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/3034/dscf28365ap.th.jpg (http://img46.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf28365ap.jpg)

2. What vacume line goes to this?
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/9767/dscf28393sb.th.jpg (http://img46.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf28393sb.jpg)

The car runs well for it's age. No stalling or draging. I push the gas and it goes.

joe_padavano
10-20-06, 09:55 AM
The first picture is the check valve for one of the air injector mainfolds. This is part of the system that uses the air pump to pump air into the exhaust manifolds to allow more complete burning of unburned hydrocarbons. The check valve prevents exhaust gas from coming out - it's a one-way valve. If it's broken, you may have an exhaust leak.

The second item is the actuator for the exhaust crossover valve (also known as the EFE system, which stands for early fuel evaporation). While the engine is cold, this vacuum actuator closes a flapper valve in the exhaust manifold. This causes the exhaust from this side to flow through a passage under the carb, heating the fuel for easier evaporation. Once the engine warms up, the computer triggers a vacuum valve that pulls this flapper open and allows normal exhaust flow. If the EFE system isn't working properly, you'll have a restricted exhaust and loss of power.

ewill3rd
10-20-06, 05:02 PM
That is precisely correct...
:yeah:

RocketFast321
10-21-06, 12:41 AM
The first picture is the check valve for one of the air injector mainfolds. This is part of the system that uses the air pump to pump air into the exhaust manifolds to allow more complete burning of unburned hydrocarbons. The check valve prevents exhaust gas from coming out - it's a one-way valve. If it's broken, you may have an exhaust leak.

The second item is the actuator for the exhaust crossover valve (also known as the EFE system, which stands for early fuel evaporation). While the engine is cold, this vacuum actuator closes a flapper valve in the exhaust manifold. This causes the exhaust from this side to flow through a passage under the carb, heating the fuel for easier evaporation. Once the engine warms up, the computer triggers a vacuum valve that pulls this flapper open and allows normal exhaust flow. If the EFE system isn't working properly, you'll have a restricted exhaust and loss of power.

I do have a exhaust leak, motor sounds real nice by the pass. door. But where does it connect to on the motor so it looks like it is connected.

I don't know if it works or not do to the fact that their is no vacuum line on it. i need to know what line connects to it

N0DIH
10-25-06, 02:27 AM
The EFE valve goes to the little box on the drivers side valve cover. The 307 likes the EFE, when it is cold out. It does help.

As for which side, I don't remember, but I am 95% sure it is the one of the 2 bottom lines, not the top one. Likely the back one. The other goes to the rear vacuum break, and IIRC, the top one goes to the EGR.

All the box does it switch vacuum on/off per the PCM.

EFE stuck closed will cause intake overheating. EFE with missing line will cause slower than normal warmups, primarily in the cooler climates. But likely will not affect tailpipe emissions that are tested. But it will cause some higher HC emissions when cold.

RocketFast321
10-27-06, 02:03 PM
Thanks N0DIH. I will into it will it stops raining

90Brougham350
10-30-06, 01:53 PM
Over time these valves (alot like a butterfly in a carb) start to get sticky. The best way to really clean an EFE up is to unbolt it and clean it outside of the car. You can see the valve then and really lubricate it to work well.

N0DIH
10-30-06, 03:08 PM
I don't recommend REMOVING the EFE and driving, as it places the exhaust pipe closer to the starter likely reducing it's life.

Unless you find the older longer pipe say from a 76 and older 350 (have to check if it had EFE or not). Or going to duals....

joe_padavano
10-30-06, 04:59 PM
I don't recommend REMOVING the EFE and driving, as it places the exhaust pipe closer to the starter likely reducing it's life.

Unless you find the older longer pipe say from a 76 and older 350 (have to check if it had EFE or not). Or going to duals....

In fact, you can't leave the EFE out without major surgery on the down pipe. The EFE bolts to the manifold with a flat flange and gasket, whereas the bottom of the EFE has a tapered seat that the flare on the exhaust pipe seals against. Leave the EFE out and you can't seal the pipe to the manifold. Now, you may be able to use an earlier 350 Olds manifold on that side, but you'd need to compare the two side-by-side.

90Brougham350
10-30-06, 06:36 PM
No no, I'm not saying take out the EFE completely, I'm saying removing it to clean it and get it working again, then putting it back in is more effective.

RocketFast321
11-01-06, 02:04 AM
BTW the car is a 84 Buick Electra Estate Wagon

Well I had to replace the lower radiator hose again. Note to self. Do not try to remove the hose with a screw driver when replacing water-pump.

But i did see where the air-hose went. I wonder how this happen. (This was taken way back in Feb. when i got it. It had a bad valve cover leak, and was leaking fuel out the inlet.)
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/7039/dscf2655ef2.jpg

I will look for the EFE line tomorrow. Also I found out why my check engine light never came on. The bulb was missing. So I replace the light and it did not come on, so I'm thinking all is good. I but tried to pull some codes just in-case. I got two.

1. Coolant Temp Switch, replace it since that was $5 (code went away)
2. Vss, well no sh!t my speed gear in the tranny needs to be replace.

And i have a third one I call it the ghost code. The light does not come on in city driving only when i push it on the interstate. But when I turn the car off and turn it back on the light turns off, And the only code in the system is the VSS. Does this mean my o2 is going? It looks like the OEM one too.

Johnny Bravo
11-24-06, 11:43 PM
No no, I'm not saying take out the EFE completely, I'm saying removing it to clean it and get it working again, then putting it back in is more effective.
Warning. :thehand: Those exhaust manifold studs are notorious for snapping off, if that happens you've got a major problem. Exhaust manifold needs to come off, broken stud drilled, threads heli-coil, etc. (not easy).

I wouldn't touch the exhaust manifold studs unless absolutely necessary.

N0DIH
11-25-06, 12:18 PM
I have found 307s do well with EFE, and removing it isn't always the best.

Yup, I hate dealing with exhaust manifold studs.....

RocketFast321
11-25-06, 10:54 PM
As for which side, I don't remember, but I am 95% sure it is the one of the 2 bottom lines, not the top one. Likely the back one. The other goes to the rear vacuum break, and IIRC, the top one goes to the EGR.




shoot forgot to update y'all.
On that control box all the lines run to somthing. Nothing is free.