: Is my amp blown?
OK... soo after my first audio install, my amp has no power... well what I've got going on right now is simple, factory (nonebose) stereo, two 10's, an amp, lineout converter. everything is run right (i think) i have my ground grounded, my remote connected (question on this: i connected to my power antenna wire in the trunk, is this correct?) and my 12v is on the positive terminal. I even changed the fuse on the amp. is it possible that the lineout converter is messing something up? b/c w/ this converter i have to tap into the existing wires and i did so. also on this converter it has a front and a rear output, i only connected to the rear b/c my amp kit only had one speaker wire w/ RCA connections, could this be a problem? i also grounded the converter. i got the amp from a buddy and he doesn't think it was blown so where is my problem? i've been working on this for two days w/ no bump :( and it's quite frustrating. any help would be GREATLY apreciated.
10-13-06, 01:39 AM
It doesn't turn on? Get out a DMM and check the power and ground you should get around 12v. If you don't, there is your problem. Now if you do, then your remote wire is the problem. That is not the correct way to wire it, ETC97 can tell you more on how to runa remote in a stock. Also, to check your remote make sure it has a 12v when the stereo is on. If connecest to the antenna it should only play with the radio.
where can i get a DMM and how much are they?
And also, where else would i connect the remote to?
10-13-06, 11:01 AM
1 what kind of amp
2 remote wire should be wired into your fuse box imho to be sure your getting a true constant power flow be sure to mount it on the side of the fuse though that if the fuse blows it will cut power to the remote so you amp has protection from that fuse as well
3 any lights lit on the amp and color or the light if any?
The amp is a soundstrom laboratories 60w X 4
How can i be sure im getting a trun constant power flow? and also is it possible for you to know which side of the fuse it is?
There is a power light that is not lit. It's green...
if you need pics they can be supplied.
10-13-06, 04:29 PM
Regarding the fuse. Remove any fuse that you want to tap into. I would stick with something not important, like power options like windows, door locks, seats, etc. After removing the fuse, use a test light to see which side is hot. Hook the remote wire to the other side that way it will only be hot if the fuse isn't blown.
Thank you all for the help i tapped into the fuse and got them running... now time for my two twelves :D
10-13-06, 06:11 PM
If you decide to upgrade your speakers, I am selling my 6x9s (Eclipse SP6900s, top-of-line 6x9s) for $100 shipped. They have like maybe 2 months use off 75watts and barley have been pushed.
naa thanx... i just bought a 2000w 4ch amp to switch my old amp for and power the new 2 twelves... im not sure on the wattage of the 2 10's in there right now so how can i check them? i got 2000w amp b/c the 12's are 500 a piece so 1000w for those, and if i plug the two 10's in will they blow b/c of too much wattage? or it doesn't matter if there's more in the amp? btw the amp is a MITZU MPA-2201BK
10-13-06, 06:20 PM
Honestly, I doubt that amp gives more than 500watts on all combined channels at one time. That is 2000max watts.
well the question is can i hook up all four subs and still get a good bump?
10-13-06, 06:53 PM
Only one way to find out. Anyways 2 12s n 2 10s will sound like ass. Too many different things going on.
ok so i should just keep the two 10's hooked to the amp that is now... and the 12's to the new amp? and of course connect the two amps...
10-14-06, 04:43 AM
I'd more of less do either 2 10s or 2 12s. I know there is barley anyroom in my trunk for my 2 12s and amps.