If you EVER have to PUMP, there is a big problem. If you EVER have pump a Q-Jet to get it to start, that is a sign something is messed up. All it does is dump a ton of fuel in the carb. Like I said, my 1982 Q-Jet on a 1977 Olds 350 in a 1985 Olds Cutlass would start like EFI when it was -20F out (yes I live in Wisconsin!).
1. Get a FSM, you need it, read the carb sections. Read even older ones too. It really helps you understand them. I save all my old FSM's, can't part with them....
2. It soulds like your float is dead. It will dump fuel like crazy if it is. And when they get really old, they do stop floating. Get a new one.
3. I bought a 82 junkyard carb for $50 and cleaned it up, reset it all to 1985 442 settings and dropped it on. Did some other mods (learn the carb first, I have put them on this forum somewhere....) and it was a sweet carb.
4. If it has this symptom, this is the fix. Get in (engine COLD), TAP gas pedal enough to set choke. Pop hood and remove air cleaner, is choke FULLY CLOSED? Correct answer is YES. If not, clean and examine linkage, do not feel the need to screw around with the choke setting, leave it alone. (No electric choke is gonna fix this, the hot air choke is far superior in operation, trust me). Ok, got it working right? It should be FULLY tight closed.
5. Now, start car. It should start right up and choke should be opened now 0.100 inches. Within around 1 second of start. If it dies right away and restarts, this is likely NOT opened up to 0.100" within 1 second. If not, remove vacuum hose on front vacuum break, depress, plug line with finger, and release. It should take 1 minute to fully extend. This is #1 problem with all Q-Jets I have ever seen. BAR NONE!!! Fix. You will LOVE your carb after that. Set all linkages to factory settings. Also, check rear vacuum break too, it can fail, but doesn't at near the frequency as the front. This is controlled by the ECM from that little black vacuum switch box on the drivers side valve cover.
6. Ok, got it running? Is the heater hose clipped to the side of the choke housing? Correct answer is YES. If not, fix, this is important to have. Choke rate depends on it.
You like electric chokes right? So do I, so I modified mine for it, And after a few weeks, changed it back. 1. It opens and warms up too fast, faster than the 307 likes. I tried and tried, I could not get the rate to be right for the 307. It would open, and then cool off too fast, remember that hose? You can't put it on a electric choke. It needs it. So fueling is always wrong with a electric choke. The hot air choke was a staple to Olds V8's. They just plain did well with them. Keep it that way, thank me later... I am a fanatic about good drivability, and know my stuff on these, and I couldn't get it to work worth it, the hot air choke did best by far.
Check all the vacuum lines, all should be good. If you need help routing them, snap a picture, I can help, I am sick, I still have them all memorized!