I have a 1988 Brougham w/ 129,00 miles on the 5.0. Love the Cadillac, yet I think it may easily become a money pit. I know you cannot get much for these, yet I am trying to do everything on a budget. In a perfect world, I would part with her and try to get a '90-'92 with the 5.7.

Current problems:
*Occasional plumes of gray/blue smoke from tailpipe on highway / needs 1 quart of oil after about 5-6 hours of driving
*Cruise control no longer works
*Gas tank slowly leaks if filled full
*Rusting and blistering around doors and door handles
*Headliner is beginning to sag
*Climate control works erratic
*Rear chrome bumper beginning to rust

Pluses:
*Has the asc optional roof
*Know what I have, mechanically
*99% of electrical options function

Any ballpark numbers on what it would cost me to address all the above problems? Anyone else found themselves in the same situation / quandry?

I can sympathsize with the oil thing. My 306 '89 uses a lot of oil. Might be a bit of money to fix it all up, but these are cool cars, which you already know. Some pics might be helpful in getting some better opinions here on the forum. I'd like to see some anyway. Hope things work out for you though. :thumbsup:

Most of that stuff isn't too hard to fix and any other one you buy is going to have some problems too. So if you like it just fix it or if you want to get a newer one just get one.

Well, it's good news and bad news.

Bad news: It needs a new motor pronto.
Good news: Parts for these cars are cheap and it should have the Olds 307 motor. These engines came in literally millions of GM vehicles up to 1990, so finding a good running used one shouldn't be too difficult. The other option is a rebuild, but that can get pricey.

Good news: Gas tanks may still be available new, if not, there are plenty in the junkyards. Under $200 new, around $50 used.
Rear bumper rust: Again, junkyards are the best source, about $50-75
Headliner sag: common problem, an auto upolstery shop can recover it, about $200 give or take.
Cruise control DOA: Another common GM problem. Along with the climate control it will have to be trouble shooted and repaired, not a big deal.

Bad news: The rust could be a deal killer when taken into account with all the other problems. If the paint, body and interior were decent I'd say do the mechanical repairs. But it may be a waste to sink a bunch of money into rusty car, because the rust you can see is probably only the tip of the iceburg.

Well, it's good news and bad news.

Bad news: It needs a new motor pronto.
Good news: Parts for these cars are cheap and it should have the Olds 307 motor. These engines came in literally millions of GM vehicles up to 1990, so finding a good running used one shouldn't be too difficult. The other option is a rebuild, but that can get pricey.

Good news: Gas tanks may still be available new, if not, there are plenty in the junkyards. Under $200 new, around $50 used.
Rear bumper rust: Again, junkyards are the best source, about $50-75
Headliner sag: common problem, an auto upolstery shop can recover it, about $200 give or take.
Cruise control DOA: Another common GM problem. Along with the climate control it will have to be trouble shooted and repaired, not a big deal.

Bad news: The rust could be a deal killer when taken into account with all the other problems. If the paint, body and interior were decent I'd say do the mechanical repairs. But it may be a waste to sink a bunch of money into rusty car, because the rust you can see is probably only the tip of the iceburg.
We'll I took the plunge and took it to the local Cadillac garage. It's going to be (gulp) $900.00 for a new, special order 25 gal. gas tank w/ new sending unit & install. They are going to cut into the cruise control too, and that cost is yet to be determined. Does the motor sound shot by my description? The small plume of smoke is subtle and brief only upon acceleration on the highway-It's done that for years. As far as the rust, there are about four spots about 3"-4" in diameter - appears to be surface rust. The interior is flawless.

Hopefully I can get some pictures up soon. Please know I appreciate your suggestions and would welcome additional thoughts, too.

We'll I took the plunge and took it to the local Cadillac garage. It's going to be (gulp) $900.00 for a new, special order 25 gal. gas tank w/ new sending unit & install. They are going to cut into the cruise control too, and that cost is yet to be determined. Does the motor sound shot by my description? The small plume of smoke is subtle and brief only upon acceleration on the highway-It's done that for years. As far as the rust, there are about four spots about 3"-4" in diameter - appears to be surface rust. The interior is flawless.

Hopefully I can get some pictures up soon. Please know I appreciate your suggestions and would welcome additional thoughts, too.

$900 :thehand: :mob: I replaced the 25 gallon gas tank on my 88 brougham myself for about $130 including straps.

Yeah, I think I may be getting hosed. The only reason I took it to a Cadillac gtarage was that I hoped to have warranted parts; also I do not have the ability and tools to do the work. I feel a pit in my stomach, yet at least I know I am resigned to the fact that I will now have to keep it. Would it be out of bounds to ask the Cadillac service department why so much?

I just called them on the fuel tank and he said the reason it was so high was that they could not put the rusty fuel guage / sending unit into a new tank, thus a new sending unit was necessary. I asked them to shave costs where they could, we'll see.

Bad news: The rust could be a deal killer when taken into account with all the other problems. If the paint, body and interior were decent I'd say do the mechanical repairs. But it may be a waste to sink a bunch of money into rusty car, because the rust you can see is probably only the tip of the iceburg.

Unfortunate but true. And sadly enough surface rust is often times more then just surface. Since you're keeping the car now, it's time to begin saving for a new paint job and welding in new sheet metal. Chances are there's plenty of rust that you're not seeing yet.

It probably costs so much to get them to change it because they want a rip off price for the gas tank. How do they even know what the sending unit is like until they take out the gas tank? There's no reason that you have to take it to the dealer any garage can work on it.

How true. I am don with Cadillac dealer service. While I may have piece-of-mind that the work was done competently, it is just too much money. That said, I have no choice but to make a long term commitment to her given the amount I have already poured. As I mentioned, I will get pictures up soon. Thanks for the feedback!

yeah that is alot for a tank i can get one from a dealer shipped to my house for 300 with the sending unit( and that is the GM acdelco tank and unit not one made in Tywan. If i were you i would have looked more into the 5.7 like you really wanted to begin with. heck there are some for sale on this board, and in your local CL. I would say keep the one you have but since you don't have the tools and such to fix it it will get pricey fast. The thing i hate most is Rot. and if you can see exposed rust then your gonna have rot it is a fact. Do you have a local vouge tech near you? they will do paint and body workl for just materials and they do prep work unlike maco

We'll I took the plunge and took it to the local Cadillac garage. It's going to be (gulp) $900.00 for a new, special order 25 gal. gas tank w/ new sending unit & install. They are going to cut into the cruise control too, and that cost is yet to be determined. Does the motor sound shot by my description? The small plume of smoke is subtle and brief only upon acceleration on the highway-It's done that for years.

Warning: Do not use a dealer service department unless you have a new car under warrranty, and even then you need to be careful.
Their parts and labor are outrageous, and the quality of work is average, at best.

If you want to run a 20+ year old car you need to find a honest, qualified mechanic and be on good terms with the local junkyard. Otherwise, it's going to cost a small fortune.

The Olds 307 is a hard engine to kill, you could probably run it for another 50,000 miles at least, provided it's maintained, i.e. regular oil changes, etc.
However, after 100,000 miles the stock nylon geared timing chain is on borrowed time. About a $300-400 job and probably not worth it on an oil burner, so take that into consideration.
Just like the rust, the engine is burning a lot more oil than can be seen.

Warning: Do not use a dealer service department unless you have a new car under warrranty, and even then you need to be careful.
Their parts and labor are outrageous, and the quality of work is average, at best.

If you want to run a 20+ year old car you need to find a honest, qualified mechanic and be on good terms with the local junkyard. Otherwise, it's going to cost a small fortune.

The Olds 307 is a hard engine to kill, you could probably run it for another 50,000 miles at least, provided it's maintained, i.e. regular oil changes, etc.
However, after 100,000 miles the stock nylon geared timing chain is on borrowed time. About a $300-400 job and probably not worth it on an oil burner, so take that into consideration.
Just like the rust, the engine is burning a lot more oil than can be seen.
That's a definite lesson learned. I need to truly really reconsider keeping it, even given this latest cash hemmorage; at this time, I may cut my losses, as another forum member wisely suggested that I really look for the early 90's 5.7L Brougham. The attachment grows so much that it often clouds good judgement, as it has in my case. Nonetheless, it has been illuminating and educational, and I am indebted to the quality of the forum membership for their exceptional insight and experience.

Warning: Do not use a dealer service department unless you have a new car under warrranty, and even then you need to be careful.
Their parts and labor are outrageous, and the quality of work is average, at best.

If you want to run a 20+ year old car you need to find a honest, qualified mechanic and be on good terms with the local junkyard. Otherwise, it's going to cost a small fortune.

The Olds 307 is a hard engine to kill, you could probably run it for another 50,000 miles at least, provided it's maintained, i.e. regular oil changes, etc.
However, after 100,000 miles the stock nylon geared timing chain is on borrowed time. About a $300-400 job and probably not worth it on an oil burner, so take that into consideration.
Just like the rust, the engine is burning a lot more oil than can be seen.

I changed the timing chain on my 88 brougham with the 307 when I did the cam swap, and it really wasnt hard at all. I cant believe that its a $300-400 job. That's ridiculous. All it cost me was the price of a gasket set because I got a brand new timing chain and gears from my friend.

I changed the timing chain on my 88 brougham with the 307 when I did the cam swap, and it really wasnt hard at all. I cant believe that its a $300-400 job. That's ridiculous. All it cost me was the price of a gasket set because I got a brand new timing chain and gears from my friend.
Actually that is probably a conservative estimate. Here in N.J. you probably couldn't get a job like that done for less than $500. Even a water pump replacement was in the neighboorhood of $250 last time I checked, many years ago.

Of course, prices vary with geographical location and shop to shop.