: 01 Eldo - 100shot Nitrous - track results



wydopnthrtl
09-18-06, 08:19 AM
I'm sure some of you will have questions. So please ask away! I'm fully prepared to answer any nitrous related questions.

Car: 2001 Eldorado ESC w/275hp northstar. 4300lbs w/me in it. racetested.com wet kit w/70 and 100 shots. Data logged rpms, timing, and IAT temps on all nitrous runs.

Baseline ET ran before and after nitrous runs were identical: 15.2 @ 94mph
70shot = 14.3s at 99mph
100shot = a best ET of: 13.95@101mph
**There is a video of this run and I'll post it as soon as I get it from the guy who took it**

Couple points I'd like to make for starters.
1) Nitrous is HIGHLY mis-understood and feared. Reason is that nearly all kits are not designed to deliver the N02/F/air charge to the intake valve (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/#) in a reasonable way. Simply put.. nitrous at 1000psi and fuel at 50psi.. which one is going to enter the intake (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/#) first? The racetested.com kit delivers them at the same time which is where the power increase and safety comes from.

They place the jets in the pulsoids vs in the injector. This eliminates the pressure -vs- pipe length issue and *NO* initial lean outs can happen. (which is the culpret for all the horror stories experienced with nitrous)

2) Typical nitrous kits compound that pressure differance with long distances between the solinoids and injector. That then hits the motor (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/#) with 100% of the nitrous flow at once. (no fuel for the first moment or two. The motor goes extremely lean so it's no wonder motors (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/#) blow! Racetested does'nt follow these faulty ways at all.

3) Ramp up time / power curve -vs- vehicle (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/#) dynamics. A fwd 4000lb car just is going to be slow off the line. The way to keep this perfectly safe and quick is to ramp up a nitrous shot. You've heard of "staged kits"? Well, this kit is a infinately ramping up of the nitrous. It's not multi staged... It's progressive. It uses a controler to control only two custom made solinoids that turn of/on in rapid succession. What this does is allows you to tailor the power curve so you feel no "hit". If you percieve anything but the motor reving quicker.. it's not set up right.
Sat night I found my best 60fts of 2.1 seconds by ramping from 15hp to 100hp worth of nitrous over 0.7 seconds timeframe.

4) Purging: Inferior nitrous kits have to have a purge. racetested does'nt have a purge for power levels under 150hp. They designed the system to keep the nitrous in liquid form from the bottle to the jet at all times. Besides.. it's very wastefull to purge nitrous at $4-5 per pound.

As far mods to my eldo.. I've opened up the snorkle area of the stock intake air box and added a K&N panel filter. I've changed all the fluids, and I've cut back the ground strap on a set of NGK TR6 plugs. (gapped at 0.040) Every thing else on the car is factory original w/52k miles on it. (Including the tires)

It's my opinion.. that a more free flowing exhaust would help. Up towards the top of 2nd and into 3rd it's just not pulling like I think it should. Down low though and it's H-A-U-L-I-N.

In this timeslip I was up against a older gent w/a bone stock 02 trans am. He was supprised to say the least. He asked "Does that thing have the northstar?" :thumbsup:

One other notable run.. I spanked a modified SRT4 neon. He was seeing those vertical tailight at my 14.1 to his 14.3 :thepan:

Rich

http://www.lightningrodder.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10051/Timeslip_Caddy_16Sept06.JPG

http://www.lightningrodder.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10051/RPMS-100shot.JPG


http://www.lightningrodder.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10051/Finished_nitrous_install_4Sept06.JPG

http://www.lightningrodder.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10051/trunk.JPG

eldorado1
09-18-06, 09:41 AM
Good times! Especially for a FWD land boat. Couple things-



4) Purging: Inferior nitrous kits have to have a purge. racetested does'nt have a purge for power levels under 150hp. They designed the system to keep the nitrous in liquid form from the bottle to the jet at all times. Besides.. it's very wastefull to purge nitrous at $4-5 per pound.

I've cut back the ground strap on a set of NGK TR6 plugs. (gapped at 0.040) Every thing else on the car is factory original w/52k miles on it. (Including the tires)


How does it keep the nitrous liquid? That seems physically impossible...

I recommend a set another range colder, TR7's. Nitrous isn't something you want to make any mistakes with. Running too cold a range is not dangerous to an engine. Running too hot is. Ground strap mod is good.

caddydaddy
09-18-06, 09:42 AM
Awesome! I'm sure an exhaust on there would open it up like you said! I wonder what my STS with the Corsa system would do with 100 HP shot???

wydopnthrtl
09-18-06, 09:58 AM
eldorado1,

Two good points! Plugs, I have a lot of experience with these in my lightning. And it turns out they are one range colder than stock for a northstar. I did'nt pull a plug at the track to check them.. but I've sprayed about 20lbs of nitrous on them so far w/no problems. And my truck pushes 15psi on top of the 100shot. Those TR6s are a very tough plug.

Liquid form. Nitrous has to be maintained at a minimum pressure to remain liquid. *typical* nitrous lines are made very large (inside diameter) and made of rubber w/braided steel on the outside.

Racetested (and the UK counterpart wizards of nos) custom make a 5mm I.D. nylon pipe. There is also a braided kevlar pipe if you want to spend the extra money. (My engine pic shows the kevlar fuel supply hose)

Now.. anytime you take a liquid nitrous from a small opening to a large one the pressure drops and it boils. The supply line from the trunk to the pulsoids on my car is 14ft long. Had it been a typical braided one that would cause it to act like a HUGE reservior. The nitrous passes by the bottle valve and boils as it fills the supply line. A purge is needed to get rid of the gas.

In a nut shell.. racetested has a stepping effect from the bottom of the bottle to the jet. Jet being the smallest orfice and the pick up tube being the largest. It's basicly a funnel effect so the liquid nitrous stays in that form as there is no pressure drop like with "typical kits". So.. no purge is needed. Even when you disconnect the bottle and put it in again there is'nt but about .2-.3 seconds of air in the line. Generally you won't even notice it on the first WOT.

For more research you guys can go to thier web sites: racetested.com & noswizard.com I'm not a sales weenie for them or anything. Just trying to get the word out that this company has took a good hard look at science and 1/4mile results. And they have proof that this design is superior. Me spanking turbo neons and hanging with Trans Am's is a fun result. :D

Rich

eldorado1
09-18-06, 11:12 AM
eldorado1,

Two good points! Plugs, I have a lot of experience with these in my lightning. And it turns out they are one range colder than stock for a northstar. I did'nt pull a plug at the track to check them.. but I've sprayed about 20lbs of nitrous on them so far w/no problems. And my truck pushes 15psi on top of the 100shot. Those TR6s are a very tough plug.


Yep, they are tough. Northstar plugs come "hot" from the factory for emissions reasons, mainly. They need to heat up quick and stay hot so they burn off carbon even on short 1-2 mile trips. The problem is this is marginal for performance on even a stock engine. For performance applications, it is recommended to run 1 range colder than stock on otherwise stock engines, and 2 ranges colder than stock on engines making significantly more power than stock. That's *minimum*. I really think you should consider switching to TR7*'s. They're cheap compared to the TR7IX's that I use on my northstar.

*I guess they don't use the TR designation on colder than TR6? I guess BR7EF is the part number. You might want to double check that. The TR7IX is the correct part number for the iridiums though,

wydopnthrtl
09-18-06, 11:48 AM
Thanks I did'nt know they were considered hot from the factory.

This would explain why I was seeing the ground straps on my bosch +2 plugs getting over heated on just a 35shot. Good info and it makes sense.

btw: With the ground strap cut back and a 0.04 gap it idles perfectly smooth. Which based on the threads I've read on here anything but a OEM plug would cause your motor to run like a single piston briggs & stratton. :rant2:

I will be taking the kit off here in a month or two. I don't use it on the street other than to just experiment and cause waves on this forum. Only reason I went down this path was with the caddy was because my trucks not running. I'm going through torque withdrawls and had to spray something this year. :crybaby:

I might get it out to the track one more time next month.. we'll see.

Rich

eldorado1
09-18-06, 12:10 PM
eww! bosch! :leaving:

the727kid
09-18-06, 07:14 PM
Can I get some info on these NGK plugs? If I switch them out (I don't think mine have ever been switched, I just hit 90k) to these spark plugs will I see a performance increase?

wydopnthrtl
09-18-06, 07:29 PM
If your not spraying I'd suggest just sticking with a stock replacement. And preferably one that has an unshrouded spark. (like the bosch +2)

The *NGK TR6* plugs I'm using are only in there for the nitrous. They are a tough plug and I have in depth experience in reading them. As soon as I stop spraying for the year I'll put the bosch's back in.


Rich

HITMONEY
09-18-06, 07:29 PM
The TR7IX is a GM plug?

eldorado1
09-18-06, 07:43 PM
The TR7IX is a GM plug?

It is an NGK, which I believe is the current manufacturer chosen for 2005+(?) northstar spark plugs.

eldorado1
09-18-06, 07:46 PM
If I switch them out (I don't think mine have ever been switched, I just hit 90k) to these spark plugs will I see a performance increase?

No. Despite what you've seen in the movies/advertisements/commercials, spark plugs won't gain you power. Independent dyno testing can verify that. The Bosh +2's +4's and similar don't offer any advantage over regular plugs, and as people on here can attest, they can cause idle misfires in our motors.

the727kid
09-18-06, 07:51 PM
Then what did you mean by "For performance applications, it is recommended to run 1 range colder than stock on otherwise stock engines, and 2 ranges colder than stock on engines making significantly more power than stock."

weister42
09-18-06, 08:35 PM
Video please:bouncy:

AlBundy
09-18-06, 08:40 PM
Video please:bouncy:

:yeah:

eldorado1
09-18-06, 08:41 PM
Then what did you mean by "For performance applications, it is recommended to run 1 range colder than stock on otherwise stock engines, and 2 ranges colder than stock on engines making significantly more power than stock."

I meant, if you flog your car daily, use a spark plug 1 range colder than stock.

If you use nitrous or boost, use 2 ranges colder than stock.

The downside to colder spark plugs is that they have a tendency to foul with carbon, but if you do your WOT's, you won't have a problem, and your engine will be quite happy.

danbuc
09-18-06, 09:44 PM
I wonder what my STS with the Corsa system would do with 100 HP shot???

So do I....


I beat the piss out of my car...perhaps I should look into a set of these NGK's. Maybe they'll do me some good. I certainly od enough WOT to take care of the carbon fouling issue. 99,500 miles and still running like a raped ape!

wydopnthrtl
09-19-06, 09:25 AM
I should be getting the video posted tonight. There are two vids actually. One of a 14.0x, and me coming right back around and hot lapping and running a 13.95.

Plugs.. with an unshrouded spark have a flame front that's not shielded. It's just basic science. And it does'nt get any better than that. FYI

I will say this though... the resistance in the plug it'self can wipe out any advantage that such a plug might have. So the best of the best would be a premium quality plug.. with an unshrouded spark. The NGK TR6 is neither a high quality plug nor does it have a unshrouded spark. It's just simply a very tough plug. I would not recommend one unless your spraying and plan on removing them in short order.

IMO (and experience) the Denso IT-20 or IT-18 would be an awsome plug for these northstars. But they are very pricey.

Rich

wydopnthrtl
09-19-06, 09:31 AM
with the Corsa system would do with 100 HP shot???

Based on what I'm seeing I think the exhaust is the FIRST thing I'd modify in order to gain some more top end power out of these things.

I don't really want to do that to mine.. but I think it's the next best bang for the buck. And a high-flow cat would be a must IMO.

Rich

the727kid
09-19-06, 11:10 AM
Well I do WOT alot. Could you give me a part number to look for the best ones to get or a website where I can buy them? Anything on wires too?

CadillacSTS42005
09-19-06, 12:24 PM
thing that will always limit you though is that 112 top end which SUCKS ASS
reason why i didnt take my moms deville or dads sts and bought my etc z. mom still has the divvy dads got a new v and sister got the sts

wydopnthrtl
09-19-06, 01:14 PM
Well I do WOT alot. Could you give me a part number to look for the best ones to get or a website where I can buy them? Anything on wires too?


ok.. buy a set of "NGK TR6" plugs at your local autoparts store. I bought some two weeks ago and they were only about $2 per plug.

Cut the ground strap back until it's at the tangency of the center electrode. Then gap them to 0.040" using a gapping tool that *only* touches the ground strap. DO NOT put any pressure on the center electrode... and DO NOT drop it on the floor or cut into the center electrode. If you do then throw it away and buy a new one. The ceramic can crack and throwing away a $2 plug is nothing compared to the damage that it could cause. Always treat a plug likes it's the most brittle thing you've ever held.

btw: My 01 northstar does'nt have wires. It had COP modules.


Below is a picture of a TR6 next to a Denso IT-20

Rich

http://www.lightningrodder.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10051/plugs_length.JPG

wydopnthrtl
09-19-06, 01:21 PM
BTW: Here is another advantage that racetested has over the "typical" nitrous competition.

Thier nozzle design blends the liquid nitrous and fuel better. (NOS on the left and a racetested on the right)

Rich


http://www.lightningrodder.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10051/injectorflowpatterns1pq.jpg

Mark Bunds
09-19-06, 01:25 PM
Simply awesome! I think I'll dump my NOS and order the RaceTested Nozzle! I can't wait to quit talking about it and get started on mine!!!

wydopnthrtl
09-19-06, 01:53 PM
Simply awesome! I think I'll dump my NOS and order the RaceTested Nozzle! I can't wait to quit talking about it and get started on mine!!!

Keep in mind that all the kits out there except racetested place the jet in the nozzle. So as far as I know you can't interchange them.

Rich

wydopnthrtl
09-19-06, 09:43 PM
Videos have been posted in the race / kill thread. :thumbsup:

davesdeville
09-23-06, 04:43 AM
No. Despite what you've seen in the movies/advertisements/commercials, spark plugs won't gain you power. Independent dyno testing can verify that.

Although that's not 100% true (for vehicles with agressive timing schedules and knock sensors to keep the timing in check) the gain isn't going to be real big..