09-01-06, 08:33 AM
Hey guys, first off I'd like to say that I've been reading over the posts when i searched and you guys are really awesome when it comes to diagnosing things i was amazed!
The issue i'm having is this, the car never had a problem starting until one day after the lunch the car half cranked and then started grinding (no start) now if I try to turn the key it grinds and almost sounds like when you start a car thats already running. I'm thinking maybe the solenoid in the starter went bad? I'd rather not pull the intake as i'm a little weary of it (I'm an old hotrod guy lol) I assume there is nothing else it could be but the starter is toast right? Also If anyone has any pics showing the process on a 94 North* it would be greatly appreciated as i've yet to find any
The starter is were I'd begin. Getting at it is not as hard as it sounds.
09-01-06, 11:42 AM
I read a few posts where ppl were able to prop it up and get at the starter, realistically how long am i looking at timewise? I've never touched one of thes engines.
Keep in mind that the intake manifold is dry, so no coolant needs to be drained. I have never had to do it but I have heard people say that they had the starter out in :20 - :30 minutes. Most said that it was far easier than laying on their back under the car, working upside down and getting rust & dirt in your eyes (been there, done that).
Yes, that is the method I have heard as well. Don't completely remove it. Just loosen everything and lift the front end enough to reach in and get to the starter.
Will Cadillac sell you a bendix? Or do you have to replace the entire starter?
09-04-06, 08:39 PM
Havent gotten into it yet, the car is sitting until I get some time to attend to it :mad:
09-05-06, 03:36 PM
When you remove the intake to get to the starter you only need to remove 4 bolts, not all the perimeter bolts around the edge of the silver top cover. Look at the silver cover and you will see 4 inner bolts that are recessed below the rim of the cover. Loosen those and pull them out. They will be about 6 inches long or so. Now the entire intake will lift up to access the starter.
While you have the intake off to access the starter you should also take advantage of the opportunity to clean the EGR passages in the phenolic spacer plates between the intake and the cylinder head. There are two plates, one on each side. Lift them out when the intake is up in the air and clean the carbon out of the passages. Look at the intake ports in the heads and clean the carbon out of the little machined slots in the sides of the ports also.
The gaskets should be reuseable just make sure every thing is in position when reinstalling the intake. If the seals are torn or damaged anywhere just use a dab of silicon seal (RTV) to repair locally.
Before you pull the intake and tear into the starter you might check to see if the flex plate was damaged in the no-start situation. If it always grinds now a tooth on the flex plate may have been damaged. Under the car, take the dust cover off of the transmission and rotate the flex plate a few degrees using a screw driver in the gear teeth to pry against the case. Try starting the engine now. If it still just grinds then the problem is likely in the starter. If it starts ok then likely the problem is the flex plate is damaged. You can continue to use it as is but keep in mind if the engine stops in EXACTLY that spot with the damaged tooth/teeth it will not start again and you will need to rock it by prying the flex plate to rotate it. You can also rotate the engine slightly with a breaker bar and socket on one of the accessories but it is harder to get the engine to move that way. Definitley check the flex plate before you assume it is the starter, though, if the starter is reacting and just grinding.
09-06-06, 08:49 AM
I think that has to be the single most helpful post i've ever received lol
Thank you so much and I'll be sure to check the flexplate before i dig in!
your great! lol:)