First, a little about myself. I just turned 16 yesterday, am a handsome young man, have loved, lived, and breathed cars since I was born, and bought a dark green, '94 ETC with 109,387 miles on the odometer, for $2,650, about a month ago. Needless to say, this car is very fast, and is my most prized possession, the love of my life. The paint is in very good condition, with only three noticable scratches on it, as is the intieror. I bought "The Caddy", as it is affectionatly known, from it's first owner, an 85 year old grandma, and the car was never driven hard.
Now, I have some questions:

1. I've read a lot about changing the coolant. Do I need to do this, and if so, what kind should I use, and what are those tablet things you're talking about, and where do they go?

2. You also mention reading/reseting codes. Can I do this without a diognostic scanner, and if so, how?

3. My digital readout is telling me to "Service Ride Control." What does this mean, what's the problem, how much will it cost, and can I do it myself (I am VERY machanically minded, and have an above-average knowledge of engines and cars in general)? BTW, when I start the car, I can hear the compressor run, and the DOES level, if that means anything.

4. My digital readout is also telling me "Trunk Open", even though it is closed, works perfectly, and seals tightly. What's up?

5. This car is totally stock. What are my 0-60 and 1/4 mile times? Also, being young and having a tight budget, what can I do, with out spending to much money, to make this car faster? (I might be able to compromise on that "cheaply" part a little) :)

6. I have an older friend that has a 2001 BMW 540i that gets to 60 in 5.2 seconds, of which he is extemely proud. What is required, and aprox. how much would it cost, to make the Caddy beat him?

7. Through careful testing :) I have discovered that while going about 30, if I slip it into 2nd and floor it as soon as she shifts, I can sqeal the tires. I have heard that this is extremely hard on my tranny, but I have also heard that the transmission is designed to handle this kind of driving, and being a Cadillac owner, I rather enjoy "spirited" driving. :) Who is right?

8. I have been told that there is not a Haynes manual printed for this model and year of car. Where can I find a manual similar to this?

9. Now I know this sounds stupid, but one of the intieror lights needs replaced, and I can't figure out how to get the cover off without breaking it. Anybody know how?

10. My radio won't take a CD, and the light showing that there is already a CD in is on about 50% of the time. When I push the eject button, it says "Err". Anybody ever have this problem?

11. I can't find any websites selling performance parts for Eldorados. Do you know of any, and does anybody make a nice sounding exhaust for ETC's?

12. Where can I find a wire-mesh grill with the NEW Cadillac emblem, like what's on the v-series cars, for my ETC?

13. Is there a Cadillac magizine I can subscribe to, and are there any Cadillac clubs in central Indiana?

14. I've heard that these cars have a top-speed limiter set at 155. Is this true, and if it is, can it be removed and how fast would the Caddy then go?

Any and all answers are appreciated, and this is a WONDERFUL site. Thank You!!!

Yo... my man w/ the red Eldorado avatar!
What's the dif between:

* HISTORY
* CURRENT

THANKS!!!!

As for question #5, go to Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Database - DragTimes.com (http://www.dragtimes.com).
Hit "CTRL + F" to find text in the page.

Then type the model and find the appr. year.
Later.

dude no crap alot of qs oh well here we go....

1 yes change it NOW your 94 so thats the green stuff and yes use the bars leak tabs

2 yes your car can pull the codes up by pressing and holding the fan up button and the warmer red button it wil then cycle through the codes

3 could be a bad bearing and such when you run the codes any messages or lights that are on will have a current code write your codes down and we can go from there...

4 again codes...

5 not much you can do to get yourself goin fast exhaust, bored tb, and nos are about it

6 mine has fully custom exhaust and a few others and i only hit 6.7, 6.5 best

7 keep the car in 2nd nail the gas and when it goes from 1st to 2nd it will do it too, yes your tranny can handle it but again only so much before something will go you are beating the heck outta it

8 get a factory service manual for the car ebay has them decently priced

9 never checked... look at your owners manual it prob says

10 those cd player break often if your hu says bose gold on it you either must buy the same unit to replace it or replace and rewire the entire car system

11 they dont exist

12 no wire mesh available on billet

13 no

14 yes because yours is a 94 etc it came standard with z tires 150 max and youll never see faster the wind will stop you at about 150 anyways

check my myspace pics and vids for a few things and vids of my eldo ull see no offence to others but i have one of the fastest eldos on the forum

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=44811549

current means the computer still detects the problem which means theres something wrong and its triping a warning message or light... history means it was a problem but it isnt anymore

Damn number 6 sounds like one of my physics problems.

2 yes your car can pull the codes up by pressing and holding the fan up button and the warmer red button it wil then cycle through the codes




"OFF" and warmer (red button) actually on the 94.

Okay, here I go... Ahem....

1. Yes, Green coolant NEEDS to be changed just about every 2-3 years and EVERY time you change it put in the Bars Leak GM supplement tablets (You can get them at the dealer parts department).

2. Answered that already.

3. It means that you have a code that pertains to your suspension system stored in the computer. Refer to #2 to retrieve it. It should be in the format of "S###".

4. One of the switches in the trunk is not working properly...

5. I dunno about the times. You can change your intake to a 95 model intake to gain 15hp and a little better fuel economy, but it would take a little modification and a new fuel rail. You can bore out the TB, and change to a perfomance exhaust also. Exhaust headers are impossible to do without lengthening the front end of the car.

6. Probably a lot. The northstar is pretty juiced out already from the factory.

7. The northstar engine is a performance engine. It likes to be driven hard. Just make sure you keep up with your coolant changes and your head gaskets should be okay.

8. DO NOT USE HAYNES for your car. It really sucks. Use a FSM (Factory Service Manual) By Helms. You can also go to ALLDATADIY.COM - Do It Yourself Automotive Diagnostic & Repair Information (http://www.alldatadiy.com) and get most of the information there too. But you can't beat the FSM.

9. It has a cloths hanger, which if you open will uncover a screw.

10. The Factory unit is in two peices. The controller (Looks like a head unit) And the module (forget the actual name) which is located right next to the antenna motor. The controller just controls the module and the module sends the signal to the speakers. Aftermarket head units contain both the module and the controller in one box, So you would have to take the wires from the module and make them go to the dashboard to get it to work (Requires it to be rewired).

11. No performance parts are available. For the exhaust Corsa... maybe... or Magnaflow.... Not sure if they make them for our year though...

12. I think you would have to buy the parts seperately and make it yourself.

13. nope

14. 155 is the max speed without the limiter. Still very fast.... for a boat.

What's the dif between:

* HISTORY
* CURRENT

THANKS!!!!

History means that the problem has not yet occured in this ignition cycle, but the problem has occured at least once in one of the last 50 ignition cycles. Current means that the problem is currently being sensed.

my bad krash thanks all my lacs are obd2 lol

Thank you very much. Now as long as I don't go mess'n in stuff, I won't mess anything up by reading my codes, will I?

nope not at all

9. Now I know this sounds stupid, but one of the intieror lights needs replaced, and I can't figure out how to get the cover off without breaking it. Anybody know how?



I checked mine out just to be sure I was giving accurate information. The rear interior lights have the hanger with the screw. The front ones do not. To take it off just pry up the bottom (Bottom is towards the window) and the trim piece will pop off. then you can squease the top and bottom of the clear plastic piece to get it off. The light comes out without any twisting required, it just pulls straight out. It's really hard to get it out. What I did was I closed my door and used my car key to pry it out. The size printed on the bulb was "P192".

I have a 93 caddy SLC.
On E-bay, I ordered a grill emblem for a 2006 escalade and "Dremeled" off my old Crusty Center Piece, spray painted the grill with semi-gloss plastic paint called "fusion" and then used two-part epoxy to attatch the new grill piece from the escalade(ful color) and Black RTV to seal it in from the rear. This RTV silicone is very inportant...............I lost my first emblem because I epoxied only...............which dries out in some areas. I've found the silicone and the epoy together work perfect. I get alot of looks from people! I'll post a pictureif anyone wants to see it. I am looking for the mesh grill myself. I may try something...............................I'll let ya know!

its the wrong emblem for the car tho look at your trunk deck.. that has duckies your new one does not and has to be pretty goddy lol post a pic im interested

I too want to see a pic please! :D

Picture please........

welcome to the board bro
some good guys here with all the info you would want about a Lac