: Growe3, Engine Removal Questions



Lawrence
02-15-04, 04:44 AM
Hi there,

I was reading an older post where you were talking of taking your engine out the top.

I have mine mostly disconnected, planning on a bottom removal, and after looking at it was wondering the same thing, out the top.

There are a few things I am wondering about.
Does the master cyl need removed?
Does the The ABS/TCM need moved?
Do the metal coolant pipes in the back need to be removed?
Does the rear exhaust manifold need removed?
Did you pull it with the trans and if not;
How far forward does the engine need to come to disengage and clear the trans, which brings me back to the rear coolant pipes. Any problems here?
How did you do the wiring harness?

Anything I haven't considerd?
Would you take it out the top again if you had it to do over?

If you could give me some guide lines I would much appreciate it.

I am working in a half full 2 car garage with an overhead door opener and its cold out there. I am a bit hesitant about trying to manuver the cradle out the bottom in these conditions.

Sincerely,
Lawrence

zonie77
02-15-04, 10:12 AM
2more cents...Bbobynski said he did it in the car. Used an angle drill to get at back head,tilted motor fwd. I didn't do that because I felt it was too easy to screw up a hole drilling at an angle in an awkward location. Also too easy to not get a timesert in right. Just an idea I'm throwing out.

If you pull cradle you don't have to pull ABS or calipers. Once you have it out everything was easy to do.

6 of one...17 of another.

zonie77
02-15-04, 11:18 AM
Take some pics of anything you think interesting...Especially if you do it differently.

Lawrence
02-15-04, 01:18 PM
zonie77..... in place, that is something to think about. I have the same concerns as you on that. I only wish I had some experience with installing the timeserts, that would make the decision easier.

BTW I did get the TS kit from botboy. I only need the inserts now and head gaskets.

Any idea how much the head gasket kit is?

growe3
02-15-04, 03:00 PM
Hi Lawrence,

My reply is a bit long for a post so I have attached a couple of MS Word files to try and help.

Let me know if I can help clear up anything I wrote.

-George

Lawrence
02-15-04, 04:53 PM
Thank you George for the info. Sounds like a plan!

Just a couple more questions;
Do the motor mounts need removed from the engine compartment or are they just disconnected at the cradle and pulled with the motor?

This might be tough, but where are the engine to trans bolts and how many are there?

Thanks,
Lawrence

growe3
02-15-04, 06:05 PM
The transaxle must be supported first.

After the radiator is removed the front engine mount is easily removed. If it is bad now is the time to replace it, it is about $80+, it comes as a complete unit, bracket and isolator. If you put it back in last it will make it easier to reconnect the electrical connections and the AC mounting brackets.

Pay close attention to how the AC brackets are assembled I have had the off twice now once to replace the compressor and once for the haedgasket repair, I find they are a pain to get re-oriented (just don't look like I think they should).

There is also a connecting bracket on the passenger side between the transaxle and the engine, just a basic disconnect.

I removed the waterpump housing and it was a lot easier to get at the bolts on the drivers side of the engine that connect the bell housing to the block.

Use a number of containers to keep track of the bolts and mounting hardware. Otherwise it can be easy to put the wrong bolts in various brackets and strip the aluminum block mounting holes. Stack parts in logical piles, you will appreciate later and it will speed assembly.


Remember this car has a lot of electrical connections use caution or you will have a lot of codes to figure out later.

-George


Thank you George for the info. Sounds like a plan!

Just a couple more questions;
Do the motor mounts need removed from the engine compartment or are they just disconnected at the cradle and pulled with the motor?

This might be tough, but where are the engine to trans bolts and how many are there?

Thanks,
Lawrence

BeelzeBob
02-16-04, 10:56 AM
Use the OEM headgaskets only. They are the best thing available for the Northstar engine, period. The factory head gasket "kit" seems expensive (OK..it is expensive...) but it does include a set of new headbolts which should be used.

Lawrence
02-18-04, 04:32 PM
Can anyone tell me where the rear engine to trans bolt is. I see the two at the top and the one at the front but can't seem to fine the one in the rear. I understand there are four?

Thanks,
Lawrence

growe3
02-19-04, 11:10 AM
Can anyone tell me where the rear engine to trans bolt is. I see the two at the top and the one at the front but can't seem to fine the one in the rear. I understand there are four?

Thanks,
Lawrence

I removed the waterpump housing and it was a lot easier to get at the bolts on the drivers side of the engine that connect the bell housing to the block.

Lawrence
02-19-04, 12:17 PM
Hi George,

I do have it off. And I can't find that fourth bolt, at the rear. Is it the bracket located on the other side, from the other three?

growe3
02-20-04, 12:23 AM
Hi George,

I do have it off. And I can't find that fourth bolt, at the rear. Is it the bracket located on the other side, from the other three?

Lawrence, if you change your profile to allow e-mail I can send you a clear picture of the water pump, it is about 385k in size.

-George

Lawrence
02-20-04, 11:57 AM
I have changed my profile.

I think I may have found the problem. If all four are visible from the top driver side at the same angle, the rear one is missing. There is a place for one, which I had thought was a locating pin, but now I think it is a missing bolt.

I am almost ready to lift it out now. One other question, concerning the pass side mount. This mount is attached to both the engine and the transaxle. It goes around the transaxle "tail housing" on the pass side. Do I need only to disconnect it from the engine?

Thanks,
Lawrence

Lawrence
02-20-04, 01:50 PM
Here you can see three of them, left to right 8 o'clock, 10 and 2. I can't get the pic any brighter, but should the fouth be at 4 o'clock, in the same direction as these, head towards drivers side? If so it is missing. As you can see from the pic, this motor was a new replacement so I suppose the installer left it out.

Lawrence
02-20-04, 03:22 PM
SUCCESS! There she is. Actually came out pretty easy. A little wiggle here and there, but no damage to anything.

BTW, That 4th bolt was missing. Spent a lot of time looking for the damn thing.

Thanks all!

growe3
02-20-04, 06:05 PM
I have changed my profile.

I think I may have found the problem. If all four are visible from the top driver side at the same angle, the rear one is missing. There is a place for one, which I had thought was a locating pin, but now I think it is a missing bolt.

I am almost ready to lift it out now. One other question, concerning the pass side mount. This mount is attached to both the engine and the transaxle. It goes around the transaxle "tail housing" on the pass side. Do I need only to disconnect it from the engine?

Thanks,
Lawrence

I would just remove it completly. It goes back back on easy, no bolt alignment problem, and it gets it out of the way.