: Shift Solenoid "A" and "B" question



swimmster
02-08-04, 12:21 PM
Has anyone who has had the problem with these solenoids ever had it actually turn out to be an electrical problem? this car I just purchased has apparently had $2800 in trans work done at some point in it's past which is kind of odd considering it's only got 67,000 miles on it. It seems based upon reading threads on this and another site, that alot of people who have replaced the solenoids ended up still having the problem. Mine has gotten worse. instead of just P094 code, I am now getting P094, P029 and P056 and the car will only go to 2nd gear and the SES light comes on around 20-25 mph. Whereas the first 2 days I was driving the car, it was flawless around town until I got on the highway.. that's when the P094 would trip. The only information I have not been able to find on here is the final resolutions people have had with this problem. I don't want to go out and waste the money on a solenoid kit only to have it not be the problem. Anyone know of anything else I can look at myself to shed some insight to this what should have been a RECALL issue?

zonie77
02-08-04, 06:20 PM
You can drop the pan and look at the solenoids.
There have been several threads in which people fixed their trans problems with the solenoids. If they are broken new ones will fix it.

Realtor1
02-09-04, 02:25 PM
Has anyone who has had the problem with these solenoids ever had it actually turn out to be an electrical problem? this car I just purchased has apparently had $2800 in trans work done at some point in it's past which is kind of odd considering it's only got 67,000 miles on it. It seems based upon reading threads on this and another site, that alot of people who have replaced the solenoids ended up still having the problem. Mine has gotten worse. instead of just P094 code, I am now getting P094, P029 and P056 and the car will only go to 2nd gear and the SES light comes on around 20-25 mph. Whereas the first 2 days I was driving the car, it was flawless around town until I got on the highway.. that's when the P094 would trip. The only information I have not been able to find on here is the final resolutions people have had with this problem. I don't want to go out and waste the money on a solenoid kit only to have it not be the problem. Anyone know of anything else I can look at myself to shed some insight to this what should have been a RECALL issue?


My 02 cents...sounds to me like shift solenoids...Cheap fix if you can DIY...i did it ( well a buddy did it while recoving from a surgery) fairly straight forward job there are NUMEROUS post on the subject...I would search the forums...there are some with very good direction on the install process...My cost were maybe 100.00 total and thats with new filters, fluid, solenoid kit...only thing I had to get at the dealer were the filters...my dealer didnt have a clue about a "shift solenoid kit"....Anyway I dont remeber the codes I were getting but the driving issues sound the same...

From what I have read the solenoids are a common item to go out...the new kit has some change to make them a bit more durable if I am not mistaken...

How is your altenator? possibly overcharging? I would try the solenoids and go from there...

Good luck....

Dubya
02-09-04, 03:51 PM
i did it about 2 months ago, 2 HUGE things to look out for

1) when taken the lower valve assembly apart, be very very careful because i had 3 check balls come out, and no idea where to put them, which is why i eventually had to bring it to a dealership....$350

2) it comes with a L bracket to hold this little filter that goes between A and B in place. your car probably won't already have this bracket, as mine didn't. but it HAS to go on, not sure why, but this is the reason mine didn't shift after i fixed it and took the cadillac dealership 2 disassemblies to get it working. ( they thought the check balls were the reason, but they only casued it to slam INTO gear)

when mine went out, it physically snapped, my car could no longer do the 3 to 4 shift, so it locked the car permanantly into 2nd.

swimmster
02-09-04, 09:56 PM
[QUOTE=Dubya]i did it about 2 months ago, 2 HUGE things to look out for

1) when taken the lower valve assembly apart, be very very careful because i had 3 check balls come out, and no idea where to put them, which is why i eventually had to bring it to a dealership....$350



I take it that the valve body absolutely HAS to come apart then? Do you or anyone else on here for that matter by chance have a diagram on where the check balls happen to go JUST incase they end up on my garage floor by accident? ;) and which half SHOULD they be in so I know which half to have on th ebench so maybe they WON'T spill out.. also.. I need an answer to this question ASAP so I can get them tomorrow, but.. i know this may sound DUMB, but.. do I NEED the new valve body gaskets? if so, how many are there and anyone know part numbers? as I saw today and quite a fe others have seen, the parts counter guys are DUUUUMB as a box of rocks without the box.. I'd LOOVE to be a parts clerk.. would be nice to see guys there that actually KNOW something about a car instead of look at you like you just asked for a space shuttle part.

PS, I'm diggin the new BLUE paint I saw today at the dealer on an Escalade.. called "Out of the Blue" blue....

zonie77
02-09-04, 10:10 PM
These might not fully answer your questions but look at them.

http://cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3935

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3393

Dubya
02-09-04, 10:46 PM
top one, all the way down has the pic.......wish i had that when i did mine, could have saved $327.xx.

everything comes in the kit. id DEFINATLY replace both solenoids, since the kit comes with both. it also comes with a cylinder type filter, a L bracket and a longer bolt which is used to compensate for the bracket.

just take your time, if possible work with someone else, 4 eyes are better than 2. wish i did...expect to take 3-4 hours.

zonie77
02-10-04, 12:29 AM
I don't have time to look for it but bbobynski explained how to drain the trans fluid from the "upper"trans. There is a plug that is exposed ,I think, when you remove the filter.
It's in the thread where he gives a good 100K service. Look for it. You can change more of the trans fluid if you do what he suggests.

Realtor1
02-10-04, 07:54 AM
Go to the links Zonie77 posted, one of them was me...someone was nice enough to post a diagram which shows you where the check balls go incase they do get messed up...if I recall they werent that bad to put back in place with this diagram. Also the gaskets are re useable according to the stealership....I reused mine and havent had any problems...just clean them good before putting back on...

good luck

swimmster
02-10-04, 01:34 PM
Thank you to EVERYONE who's helped me out on this issue.. I have more than enough confidence now to tackle this job myself.. Would you believe EVERY single tranny shop in town.. no joke.. EVERY single tranny shop here in town WILL NOT touch this transmission... I was like.. " Jeeze.. come on.. it's 2 friggin solenoids under the pan.. just have to drop the valve body.." they were like "NOPE"........ friggin Crest Cadillac here in Syracuse.. the ONLY caddy dealer in syracuse says it's a SEVEN hour job and wants $500 to do it.. I laughed at them and asked what the hell kind of techs they have that takes them 7 hours to pull and replace the valve body. So needless to say, they ganked me for $64 on the solenoid kit and if I can reuse the gaskets, then I'll be doing this tonight.. I will also be bringing my digital camera and posting some helpful pictures for the next guy that will need to be doing this. complete with check ball locations and all. You guys gave to me the information, so I'll hopefully try to return the favor. i HOPE this is all that's wrong with this tranny.. seemed to drive excellent the first day and then just progressivly got worse.. I would imagine the VERY cold temperatures up here in NY would ahve made the trans fluid thicker and put much more pressure on those valves and worked them out quickly. Anyways... i can't thank you all enough for the information.. I've gone from SCARED as hell about spending another fortune on this car to heh... easy as pie.


Take care all and HOPEFULLY I will only need to post non repair questions from now on. maybe even learn some things and provide some answers too.

Jamie

PS: ANyone near Syracuse NY who would want to make some money preforming this job for me? I honestly really do not have the time and I HAVE to have it done by Friday.. I'll do it, but it's going to SERIOUSLY cut into my schedules.

Thanks..

Realtor1
02-10-04, 01:47 PM
If it takes the cadillac mech 7 hours for that job he should be fired...but yet another reason why "most" dealerships should be called stealerships....

Would help if you were local...good luck it wont be bad...slightly messy but hell soap is cheap :)

Looking forward to the update

Dubya
02-10-04, 03:04 PM
wow, i did it in like 3 or 4 tops. a tech should be in the 2-3 hour range. would have done it right if i didn't loose the checkballs...lol

what a rip on that dealership, the place i went (walser cadillac in Apple valley MN if anyone is looking for a good-honest shop) charged me $327, THEY EVEN called me to see if i had the original transmission gasket, because the one i used was a cork, and isn't re-usable, but the oem pan gasket is resusable, they wanted to save me $50!!! but i already tossed it. ill try to find the work order, but i believe it was 2.5 hours time + shop supplies

hope it works out, pics would be awesome, we need to get a good database of info....but sal or whoever it is that runs this site, if you decide to close it someday, tell someone so we can back up all the info!!!!! alot of stuff was lost on gmforums.com

swimmster
02-11-04, 12:42 AM
UUUUUGH!!! I'm REALLY REALL SORRY guys!!! I got down to the garage and got the car up on jackstands, got the pan off and thought.. perfect picture opprotunity. Got out the camera only to find the memory card was still HOME!!! :(:(:(

Anyways... here's the deal.. Lots of interesting information to pass along.. I REALLY wish I could have gotten pics for everyone cause they SURE as hell would have helped me.. I don't know about your trannies, but this one had 4 check balls under the valve plate and another 4 under the servo plate. LUCKILY, since mine all fell out no matter what I did, the spots for them were painfully obvious. they are tear dropped shaped spaces with a small hole at the small end and the big hole at the big end.. the check ball goes in the big hole. once I saw this, I just put them all in a pile till I was ready to put them back together..

Ok.. sorry.t hat should ahve come next.. but here's a few other things.. when removing the valve body, remove the DARK colored piece FIRST. BTW.. keep ALOT of shop towels on hand and a LARGE catch pan for the fluid. Once you remove that piece, you can pop off the solenoid wires.. either way, those will come off without any trouble no matter what you do first. OK.. now.. there's a small rod connecting to the shifter held in place by a metal clip.. I STRONGLY suggest pulling that rod off first. It's attached to a looong valve that goes all the way thru the valve body. depending on how you tilt the valve body when you remove it, this might just fall right out.. that's ok cause it will slip right back in.. it's held in by nothing more than the rod connecting it to the shifter. There is also a THIRD connector you need to be VERY careful of. It's a 5 pin connector with only 3 wires in it. you pretty much need ot have the valve body off to get to the clip holding it to it's connection.

What else can I think of... oh.. HOLD the solenoids in place as you remove the retaining clip.. and DEFINITLY don't have it pointed at your nose..... there's a bit of spring pressure behind them. Also, do not forget to remove the tiny sheck ball from the pan if it has not already made it's way to the pan magnet. this is from the inside of the broken solenoid. fortunately, I only had ONE broken solenoid but I replaced them both anyways... amazing how a small L shaped piece of metal can make a HUUUGE difference.

All and all, it was kind of a fun job. definitly a learning experience.. never touched a FWD tranny before. and guys.. I'm NOT bragging here I promise you, but using just hand tools, I went from putting the jack under the car to washing my hands and putting my tools away in just over 2 hours. spent the third hour cruising the interstate at 80 for the first time in my new cadillac.

Again, I am SOOOOOOOOOO sorry about not being able to get pictures.. I had nice plans for some very good pics with captions, markings n such.

PS.. make sure you let the car cool off for a LONG time or bring friggin pot holders.. internal parts remain HOT for a LOOONG damn time.. I unfortunately, was very pressed for time ahd had a VERY hot trans to work on... was glad I brought my gloves..;)

Thank you guys for helping me thru this experience..

Jamie Swimm

Dubya
02-11-04, 12:52 AM
glad it all worked out, wish i had seen all this info before i did it.

hot tranny isn't fun to work with, but i had to work in slush w/ a hot tranny and it was COOOOLD out, i was pressed for time too, wish i had stopped at a car wash first to get rid of the slush buggars..haha didn't even think of it

zonie77
02-11-04, 01:53 AM
Glad to hear it went well. Too bad about the pics. You almost need a photographer there. We tried to take a lot of pics when we did the head gaskets on my brothers car but only took a few. Once you are working and greasy you don't stop to take pics!

Realtor1
02-11-04, 07:34 AM
I assume since you were crusing at 80 everything is good to go....now if you havent already clear all codes and see if any come back. Glad to hear it went well...nice being able to fix it for under 100 buck isnt it :)

I agree with Zonie ..hard to take pics when your working and all greasy...I tried on my altenator but didnt come out near as well as I had hoped and got my camera all gunked up :(

Enjoy your nice smooth ride :)

sparkling3usus
08-29-04, 09:53 PM
Just a quick question for ya? Whats the deal with the L shaped bracket. I just did mine and my dad didn't think I needed the bracket so I left it out. Guess what? I have to pull it all apart again tomorrow. 3rd and 4th gear went again. I will get pictures my second time through and it wasn't really a hard job. I got some good directions on here. The pics would have been helpful though. I would appreciate if you could let me know about that bracket.

Thanx Sparkling

STS-Guy
08-29-04, 10:54 PM
Hi
The bracket is to hold in the filter between the two solenoids. The old design which was flawed had a small plate coming out the side of the solenoid which held the filter in. Both of the solenoids must be changed along with the filter and the bracket to correct the problem. I did mine today and it now works great.

sparkling3usus
08-30-04, 05:36 PM
k guys that was the prob, the L bracket. When I dropped the valve body I could clearly see the screen had popped out. I did take some pics that might be helpful. They helped me when I was putting everything back together.
Any idea how to get the pics into here?

Ken Seliga
10-27-04, 11:34 AM
A great big "THANK YOU" to everyone who posted in the P094 thread...My 95 Eldy decided to go into "get you home " mode (2nd gear ) with the infamous P094 code..I am pretty handy with a wrench, but all your posts in this thread really gave me the courage to do it myself...A special thanks to the guy who took the pictures...The job was just as easy as everyone said it was...$62 at the local dealers for the shift kit and $37 for a new pan gasket....alls well that end well, I suppose......THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP.....

Allante North *
11-26-04, 07:20 PM
Just wanted to post my thanks as well re:Shift Solenoid "A" and "B" question. A few weeks ago I too fell victim to the dreaded P094 code. I was headed to Chattanooga and noticed that the transmission did not want to stay in O/D. With the slightest pressure on the throttle, it would shift to 3rd. A few miles later, and it kicked down to 2nd and would not shift into 3rd. I did a U-turn and headed home to research the problem. I stopped by my local dealer and spoke with the shop foreman who informed me of the "kit". I picked one up and with the help of a local mechanic its now fixed. I hope that the end of the story as my car is mostly a garage queen. I took it out today to streach its legs and she ran great.

Thanks again to all who chimed in on this issue! :thumbsup:

ratherbriding99
02-17-05, 04:06 PM
well, i have the p056 and the p094 codes. I can drive my car for a while and it will shift fine until it starts to warm up(it's been cold here in michigan) then the ses light will come on and it will stick in either first or second, not sure which. Now if i drive it a little more aggressivly, like being at two-thirds throttle or none at all, then it won't come on. So from what i'm thinking its the shift solenoid. Any suggestions? If it is the solenoids this post will prolly be the biggest money saver in a long time. Any place that would change it around here would be in the upper three hundred dollar range before parts.

ratherbriding99
02-18-05, 04:03 PM
help please. I am stuck with no transportation. I might have to walk to work tommorow. Its like 15 degrees out. Will the solenoids be obviously broken when i pull the pan or what?

Twilightcall
02-24-05, 08:12 AM
Yes on mine I could see one was broken but still hanging on to a little plastic on the housing. Also I found a little ball (bb like) in the bottom of the trans. pan. It was stuck to the magnet. This will let you know if one is broken.