: Front and Rear Brake Pad Replacement with Photographs 01 Eldo



EDBSO
07-15-06, 07:19 PM
From my 2001 Eldorado

The Fronts:
With a jack, safety stands, beer and the following you have everything.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/1.jpg
In point form.
1. Block the wheels
2. Remove the hubcap with a flat screwdriver. Use black or masking tape on the blade to protect the hubcap. Slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts.
3. Jack up the wheel (use safety stands under frame) and finish removing all lugnuts, tire and rim.
4. Remove top caliper bolt (as view from back side)
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/top.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/F2.jpg
5. Remove bottom caliper bolt, as viewed from the back side.
ALWAYS SUPPORT THE CALIPER never let the brake hose support the brake caliper!!!
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/F4.jpg
6. Loosen the bleeder valve. Personal preferance I do not like to force brake fluid backwards through the lines, valves and pump! Just my 2cts! Note: Others say NEVE EVER force the brake fluid back through the system because you risk getting dirt and sludge behind the seals and into the inner workings of the ABS system. I always loosen the bleeder screw.
7. Use "C" Clamp to push the caliper piston into the bore.
8. Close the bleeder and top up brake fluid.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/F5.jpg
9. Remove the old brake pads and replace with PREMIUM brake pads. Seat them properly in their anti-squeal stainless steel holders.
(Did I mention have a beer?) http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/F6.jpg
10 Put caliper back on and bolt to the support brackets. This is a good time to use some brake cleaner and spray any brake fluid that may have gotten on the various parts. NEVER get grease oil or any dirt on the rotors or friction surface of the pads!!! I don't even like to touch them with my hands.
MAKE certain that the caliper bolts are CLEAN well lubricated with a very high temperature grease and make certain that the CALIPER MOVES FREELY.
11 Reinstalling the tire and rim. - Time to do some preventative maintenance.
To prevent the rim from freezing to the hub it is best to inspect both for signs of corrosion or pitting. Clean with a very light sanding (skip sanding if in excellent condition) and lubricate with a very thin coat of the high temperature grease. Essentially you apply the grease and then wipe most of it off.
Torque the lug nuts. (Check, usually to 100 foot pounds).
A source of shimmy, vibration and brake pedal pulsation can be caused by improper torqueing of the wheel lug nuts.
After you have the rim and tire back on the studs finger tighten all 5 of the lug nuts.
At this point the rim bore has slid over the hub and the rim is tight against the rotor.
Tighten each lug nut 4 or 5 times in a crisscross sequence each time increasing the torque force till you reach the specified torque (usually 100 foot pounds). Tip after 2 or 3 rounds of tightening you might want to slightly lower the car till the tire touches the ground enough to stop it from rotating while you torque. Do not put the full weight of the car on the rim till you have torqued to specification, just enough to stop the rotation.
12 Remove safety stands and let the car down. Install hub cap.
13 Press the brake pedal several times to move the pistons up to the rotors. Start the car and apply the brakes and only if they feel normal shift into "D" drive 10" and stop. Put in park and remove wheel chock.

After a couple of days of driving check the lug nuts again for proper torque.
The rears. This is how my 2001 Eldorado works, your mileage could vary???
You know the deal, point form and start by collecting your tools and beer together.
1. Remove hub cap. Use black or masking tape on the blade to protect the hubcap. Slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts.
2. Loosed wheel lug nuts a bit
3. Chock wheels
4. Jack up (use safety stands under frame) and remove rim and wheel
5. This is what you should see if the rears are the same.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/2.jpg
6. Remove the 12mm calpier bolt from the rear, the caliper is now slightly free to rotate on its axis
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/3.jpg
7. The caliper won't rotate enough because of the emergency brake cable it must be unbolted
View from the top
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/4.jpg
8. Remove the bolt and the caliper is now free to rotate and the old pads can be removed.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/edbso/6.jpg
9. Loosen the bleeder screw. You already know my preferance not to force brake fluid back through the system and Note: Others say NEVE EVER force the barke fluid back through the system because you risk getting dirt and sludge behind the seals and into the inner workings of the ABS system. I always loosen the bleeder screw.
10. Use the magic cube with a 3/8 drive and turn the piston into the bore.
11. Tighten the bleeder screw and add brake fluid
12. Install the pads and rotate the caliper down.
13. Rebolt the caliper
14. Rebolt the emergency brake cable. This is a good time to use some brake cleaner and spray any brake fluid that may have gotten on the various parts. NEVER get grease oil or any dirt on the rotors or friction surface of the pads!!! I don't even like to touch them with my hands.
15. Reinstall the wheel, rim and hubcap.
16. Remove safety stands and lower the car
17. Press the brake pedal several times to bring the pads to the rotors
18. Start, try brakes and if they feel normal put in drive and test from 2 mph
20. Season and brake in rotors as below.

After a couple of days of driving check the lug nuts again for proper torque.
See my post here on breaking in the pads. MOST IMPORTANT (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/78724-bedding-performance-friction-pads-letting-smoke.html)

Most people after a great brake job using only the best parts do not finish the job off properly. They think they are through after torquing the last bolt down and kicking the wheel blocks out. NOPE! lots to do yet

Last Sundy I installed the Performance Friction pads on all corners. After testing in the driveway to make certain I still had brakes by doing 2 or 3 stops from 1 or 2 mphs I was ready to go around the block.
Accelerate to 25 mph and gently brake to 5 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.
Repeat the braking 25 mph to 5 mph 3 more times and then park in the driveway and let them cool for 4 or 7 hours. I usually leave them overnight.
Drive normally for 2 or 3 days with no hard stops and then bed the pads. I did that today Thursday.

Now bed the pads. Sorry no xxx here.

Choose a quiet highway or road of your choice. Accelerate 60 mph to 70 mph and brake hard to 5 mph. Very hard to 5 mph! Again do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.

Repeat 5 to 7 times IMMEDIATELY! If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough.

On the last stop the brakes should be very hot and even smoking! Your stopping distance could be 3X what the first stopping distance was. Sometimes the rotors and pads will get so hot even braking with full force will barely slow the car down. Do this on a quiet deserted road.
You are in full brake fade. AND may not be able to stop the car. This is good. Your brake rotors and pads are now full bedded. Some call it letting the smoke out. Yes they will smoke and stink.
Drive for 20 or 30 minutes to cool your brakes and you are done. Your brakes are now proper bedded and again I usually let them rest the night.

Your brakes will have improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and bedding will extend the life of your pads and rotors. AND they will work very very well.

If you have cheap crappy rotors you probably warped them. If you have cheap crappy pads then they faded after 1 or 2 stops. Better to discover this sooner than later.

So do you want to know about cryo treating your pads and rotors? Nope you arn't ready cryo treating info (http://www.cryogenicsociety.org/cryo_central/cryogenic_treatment_of_materials.php)

JimHare
07-15-06, 11:47 PM
Excellent Work. Will bookmark for Future Reference......

gistecknician
08-04-06, 01:27 PM
Umm, Am I the only that noticed that step 19 is missing???
Maybe we should scratch beer off of the parts list next go around.

LOL...great write up, using it this weekend as my guide.

Thanks

EDBSO
08-04-06, 08:11 PM
Umm, Am I the only that noticed that step 19 is missing???
Maybe we should scratch beer off of the parts list next go around.

LOL...great write up, using it this weekend as my guide.

Thanks Beer should be Chimay Blue! Either from one of their glasses or from a large cognac snifter. Step 19 . . .

19. Drive around the block, accelerate to 25 mph and gently brake to 5 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop. Repeat the gentle braking 25 mph to 5 mph 3 more times for a total of 4 times and then park in the driveway and let the rotors cool for 4 or 7 hours. I usually leave them overnight.

As my pads (stock crap) and rotors were just about new I did not replace the rotors just replaced the pads. Could someone add a line or two about replacing rotors. Esentially remove the caliper brackets and remove and replace rotors.
My mechanic said that he couldn't fix the brakes properly so he did the next best thing and made the horn louder!!

iametarq
10-03-06, 07:33 AM
Very nice!!!

suzi
11-01-06, 09:00 AM
hey there,
ive got a 95 sls and need to replace the front pads. i think the photos you show are for a newer model. ive trawled this site and cant find pics like the ones youve posted. just wondering if you have or know of any detailed pics for my year.

regards
suzi

urbanski
11-01-06, 10:12 AM
hey there,
ive got a 95 sls and need to replace the front pads. i think the photos you show are for a newer model. ive trawled this site and cant find pics like the ones youve posted. just wondering if you have or know of any detailed pics for my year.

regards
suzi
this forum isnt for questions, please read the sticky.
you can ask questions in the proper forum for your vehicle.
thanks.

dp102288
11-02-06, 09:22 AM
I used this to check my rears yesterday. I have some bad noise coming from the back, so I thought it was the wear clip. Turns out all four rear pads are still pretty meaty. :confused: I will have to clean them next.

This write up was excellent! Real A+ job. Thanks so much.

EcSTSatic
11-04-06, 08:55 PM
Great writeup! I just did pads and rotors on all 4 corners . The only things I would add:

If you've driven long with the "change brake pads" message on, plan on replacing the wear sensors (if you want to continue using this feature). They will be worn thin and probably broken.

If you can do a visual inspection before you get too deep into it. Especially check the boots and pins. These parts are available but you may have to look around a while to find them, wasting more of your day. be sure to look around for other problems. e.g. Steering control boots, chafed or cracked brake hoses etc

To change the rotors, you just have to do one more step and remove the caliper brackets (2 15mm bolts) to clear the rotors from the hubs

digitalcaddie
11-07-06, 06:32 PM
Nice post. I used the procedure to do my rear pads on a '97 SLS. The only place I had problems was removing the bolt that holds the emergency brake cable in place. The cable was directly over the bolt so it was a pain to get a socket onto the bolt. I ended up having to pry the cable out of the way with a screwdriver to give myself some room to get the socket on there.

Also in one of the other posts, someone says you can use the tips of needlenose pliers to turn the piston back into its bore instead of a brake cube. I tried that and twisted the crap out of my pliers (ruining them) since the piston did not move easily. Just spend $6 and get a cube if you're doing this job. You'll still be saving big bucks over taking it to Midas or a dealer.

92EldoTC
03-04-07, 05:24 PM
Also dont forget that if you dont want those new pads to make any noise, rub anti-squeak compound on the pads surface for a smoother and quiet stop.
Good thread.

baclay
07-13-14, 12:47 AM
"Use the magic cube with a 3/8 drive and turn the piston into the bore." Do you turn clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Ranger
07-13-14, 11:29 AM
Right hand threads. Clockwise retracts the piston.

Caddy-EaRL
07-31-14, 11:29 PM
Also dont forget that if you dont want those new pads to make any noise, rub anti-squeak compound on the pads surface for a smoother and quiet stop. Good thread.

Using that stuff changes the composition of the friction material. When you're car comes from the factory it doesn't have any on the pads and they rarely ever make noise. If you simply use a high quality pad, have all the sliding points nice and clean as new, a nice smooth finish on the rotors, you can also be noise free and still keep the intended composition of the friction material. Just my 2 cents.

Ranger
08-01-14, 11:11 AM
I hope he meant the back of the pads and not "the pads surface".

That said, I agree with Earl. Besides, it will burn off after the first several brake applications.