peb boys just quoted me 800.00 then a 2nd pep boys quoted me 922.00 for the change!? that sound right? seems extremely expensive for an oil pan gasket.

The engine has to be dropped to R & R the oil pan gasket.

HOLY ... damn.. well that was totally unexpected.. hahahaha

yeah, makes a leaky oil pan a lot easier to live with, eh?

Yeah I understand that quite a job on these cars.

lol yes very ranger.. i was shocked i thought the first guy misquoted me or something but wow...any thoughts on how to maybe remedy the problem without the 900 dollar repair?

Yeah, if it is actually the pan and not the halfcase seal, try this. Pull the bolts one at a time (there are a few you cannot get to). Spray the threads, both male and female with Brakleen (brake cleaner), then blow out the hole with compressed air. Apply some Permatex thread sealer to the bolt threads and torque to specs. Then move on to the next til you do all you can get at. This proceedure has been reported to drastically slow if not stop a pan leak.

Can I ask what the 'halfcase' is?

The engine block is made of 2 halves. The top half, with the cylinders, and the bottom half. Sandwiched between the two is the crankshaft. The bottom half is really the crank bearings, and "main caps" and all. There's a seal between the two that's supposed to keep oil in that fails.

i was wondering if i can use the permatex sealent around the pan not just on the bolts?

I'd first get under it and clean it good with a can of Brakleen. Then see exactly where it is leaking from, the pan seam, halfcase or pan bolt threads. Then you'll have a better idea of how to proceed and if it is even worth the effort.

Really? so the block is actually two pieces? I had no idea. So there's no bearing caps it's the two pieces of the bottom end?

The engine block is made of 2 halves. The top half, with the cylinders, and the bottom half. Sandwiched between the two is the crankshaft. The bottom half is really the crank bearings, and "main caps" and all. There's a seal between the two that's supposed to keep oil in that fails.

Now you've got it. The bottom end is a one piece multiple main bearing cap.

Really? so the block is actually two pieces? I had no idea. So there's no bearing caps it's the two pieces of the bottom end?

exactly why they're good to 8500+ rpm and 600+hp stock. :thumbsup:

hard as hell to see, most of the oil is from the front of the pan, i really do think its the gasket tho, i bet its never been changed.. and it looks like theres some sealent on it already.. but its terribly applied.. siiiiigh time for a six pack and a day under the car..

There are dyes that can be added to the oil that are a big help in finding leaks. NAPA has several for sale as leak detectors. Also Permatex makes a gasket compound that cures with a primer that looks like strawberry jam. Doctor the bolts like it's been suggested, spray a goodly amount of primer around the seam and plaster the jam over top. Spray some more primer around. It makes a hell of a mess but it sticks like sh!t to a blanket.

exactly why they're good to 8500+ rpm and 600+hp stock. :thumbsup:

I can't wait for the next version of the V-Series. Guess the only reason why they droped to 4.4L from 4.6L is fuel economy? The 6.0L vette gets better EPA estimates though. Then again its really really light so the 6.0L is an engine with wheels around it and the caddy's are pullling around luxury entertainment systems, bigger heaveir wheels etc etc.

whats the suggested torque for the bolts on the pan? and the drain plug? its leaking from the front of pan and its a good amount.. it covers the entire pan pretty much.. how long do you have to let the permatex sit for?

got a link to the permatex? http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive.htm which one is it?

Pan bolt torque is 89 in. lb.
Never used a torque wrench on a drain plug.
I'd go with this product for the sealer.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/thread_compounds/a_thread_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm

Never used a torque wrench on a drain plug.

I would love to know why. Having said this, and having had the local quick [type] lube put the drain plug in so that it took two of us to get it out, I drill the plug and wire-lock it aircraft style.

Why? Because it is not a critical fastener. I just tighten it down so that it does not come loose, does not strip the threads and does not take two men and a boy to remove. Likewise with spark plugs. After so many years you get a feel for these things.

what about the gasket maker? any suggestion for that?