Two days after I got my 95 FWB, the interior lights quit.
I checked all the fuses. Every one is okay according to my little Greenlee meter which beeps on the continuity test of each fuse.

Today, since CT law says "wipers on = headlights on," I THE instrument lights go off when parking lights or headlights are on !!! This just started. I had full instrument lights until now, with the brightness fully adjustable via the turning of the headlamp switch.

No amount of twirling the headlight switch brightens the panel lights nor turns on the interior lights past the full clockwise detent.

In addition, the rear license plate holder/gas filler lock doesn't lock, either.

HELP!!!

This is especially critical since I am not fully used to the car and the FWB might be going 50 in a 30 speed zone and I'd never notice it. And in-town tickets are expensive.

BTW, made the first mpg check. Filled the tank with 13.25 U.S. Gallons after trip indicated 166.9 miles.
That calculates to 12.596 miles/gallon.

That isn't all that bad considering all the silly stuff I've done plus lots of idling with the A/C on while waiting in parking lot for wife to get back from shopping, etc. Incidentally, that's when I heard the PROPER pronounciation of BROUGHAM by a couple of kids as they went by.
"Hey, lookit that BigAss Cadillac."
"Yeah. That's a BROGGAM."

So I guess BROGGAM it is.

Another interesting happening is the switch to CT plates from the TX plates it came with. I popped the extra $$ for the "United We Stand" plates and the unbelievably courteous lady at the DMV drew the random plates with the numbers
1-BBF-4
for the Cadillac.

Now if that doesn't seem to spell out 1 BIG, BEAUTIFUL FLEETWOOD and then just leave the 4 sort of hanging.

Anyhow, since I'm waiting IMPATIENTLY for my shop manuals (Sal ??) can anybody help me with the electrical gremlins?

Is the primary computer having a nervous breakdown?

Is it simply frayed wires?

HELP!

Check under the dash for all connectors. Remember, interior lights work on SWITCHED GROUNDS, not switched +12v. +12v is constant to them.

Being you have 2 things connected to the headlight switch, I would be looking closely at the headlight switch assy. Check connectors and wiring to it.

Check fuses on both sides of the fuse and make sure all are present (there is some underhood too). Push them all in, or even remove and reseat them.

Many thanks. :thumbsup:

And . . .sono***un!!! The switched grounds routine just reminded me of my boat with BMW engines and sterndrives! I thought it totally BACKWARDS to work like that. But sure enough, it operated on SWITCHED GROUNDS! Every other sterndrive (OMC, Mercury, Volvo-Penta, etc.) switched the hot side.

Anyway, I checked the panel at the left of the dash and also the one under the hood.

I also remember a note in the TSB about the headlight switch needing to have an ear on the switch bent clear of another part of that switch to make ut function properly.
So it looks like that switch will likely have to be pulled and checked.

Could any of the relays be involved? I haven't pulled any of those . . .yet.

Worse, could the computer be involved? If so, is this getting into real $$ ?

In addition, I picked up a copy of a Haynes manual at AutoZone covering Caprice, ImpalaSS and Roadmaster. Surprisingly, the fuse panel layout shown in the book is identical (!) to what is printed on the back of the inside fuse block cover panel of my 95 FWB. But the wiring diagram, further down inside the book, has a warning that says it is VERY generic and may be a polyglot and/or generic of 93 thru 96 although it splits early and late models.
Thus I'm uneasy about trusting it completely.

One thing for sure, I'm not doing any night driving.