: Torque Convertor removal, problem (96 4.6L)

06-14-06, 08:35 AM
Purchased a 4.6L from a 96 DeVille as replacement for the unit in my 99 DeVille.

At issue today, is the size of the 4 bolts attaching the torque converted to the flywheel.

The bolts metric, 18 mm.

Holding the crank with a socket and bar, where is the best placement/location for an off-set or std wrench to loosen the bolt.

I removed the started from the galley, the bolts do not line up where a socket can be used.

PS: I do not have a proper shop manual for a 4.6L .

Thank You

06-14-06, 09:06 AM
You can get to them by removing the transmission-engine brace, and the splash/rock shield. It will probably be difficult or impossible if it's not at least 12" off the ground. All bolts are metric.

06-14-06, 11:20 AM
The engine is sitting on a pallet in my garage.

I cannot figure out how to get a wrench onto the 4 bolts.

Would like to know the wrench size needed and where to attack the bolt heads from.

Removed: intake, valve covers, exhaust manifolds and the starter from the galley.

Next the heads and into the internals of 4.6

No use putting it back in together without a proper and verification that the engine will last another 100K.

06-14-06, 11:51 AM
ahh... well that I don't remember. If you can't get to the access panel from underneath the engine, your best bet might be to just leave the converter on the engine, and separating the engine and trans. Then it should be much easier to get to.

sorry I can't help you with a wrench size...

06-14-06, 03:25 PM
The transmission has been seperated from the engine, its the torque converter that I cannot unbolt.

A 17mm is too small and an 18 mm is sloppy.


06-14-06, 03:36 PM
You using a close ended wrench? 18mm sounds about right...

06-14-06, 04:25 PM
I removed the Torque Converter from a locked up Northstar. I used a prybar to put a little flex into the flexplate to make things easier. It was an 18mm open end wrench that I used. It was time consuming to say the least. The best place to remove the bolts is underneath. With my locked up engine, I removed three of the bolts with the engine in the air...the last one was with the engine on the ground. I had to pull the water crossover, but was able to remove the bolt that was a little to the right (looking at back of block) of the starter. If your engine rotates but is on the ground and you have nothing to lift it right now, you can try doing that. Once you get one out, you can just rotate the engine to get the next the same way.

06-14-06, 09:50 PM
I located the area designed on the engine block to remove the torque converted using a 18 mm socket.

The location is on the front side of the motor with the converter on the right side.

The recessed area is where the exhaust cross over pipe is closest to the engine below the center line of the crank shaft.

Now for the heads

06-15-06, 10:00 PM
I replaced my Northstar... by myself. I asked a ton of questions at the local Cadillac dealer- service mechanic,,, VERY helpful!!

About your converter & flywheel.. there is one different bolt hole in the flywheel. One is not round.... it's oval. The oval flywheel bolthole is the first one to install, and tighten it ALL THE WAY. That will center all other holes, so you do not have to turn the converter more than one time.... Make each one tight, as you get to it.

I believe the flwheel bolt are STRETCH BOLTS. One-time use ONLY.
( How to tell )... Example: Flywheel torque should be 11lbs. ft. + 50 degrees.

Which means, torque at 11 Lbs. ft. .....then tighten 50 degrees of a 360 degree circle. ( 90 degrees is like 15 minutes on a clock) ...... 50 is like 10 minutes?...... something like that....
( So, throw away the bolts - get new ones)

A "Tool Time" hint. Get the whole set of ratcheting box wrenches. I was addicted to how much easier the Northstar was with them!!