: help!!...no start and no power at purple wire



onecad
01-29-04, 05:46 PM
OK....
I am in the middle of tearing out my starter, and before I disconnected the power from it and removed the starter, I wanted to check for power at the purple wire when trying to crank it over.

There was no power at the purple wire!...so I need help on what to check, I have the engine half torn apart.

The clicking noise I hear seems to be coming from underneath the fuse block in the engine compartment, and there is a little black box there about 2" by 2" by 3" square mounted to the frame rail just below the fuse block where a huge bundle of wires run. I took a picture with my digital camera but don't know how to upload it.

HELP!
thanks, Joe

elwesso
01-29-04, 06:45 PM
If you hear a clicking sound, that means the solenoid/relay should be working... However, it might not be a bad idea to replace that..... Along with the wires that connect to it....

To upload your picture, just click the POST REPLY button under the post (the big button on the left) and you can attach files that way....

onecad
01-29-04, 06:51 PM
hey....but I am not getting any power to the starter at the prurple wire...so it will not click regardless because its not getting the signal upon turning the key....

is it ok for me to cross the power and signal posts to see if I get action???

thanks

elwesso
01-29-04, 07:21 PM
Joe...

I misread your initial post..... So as I understand it you arent getting any action from the solenoid... That leads me to believe that it needs replaced.....

Another possibility is the passkey system is messed up and not sending the start signal.... Try bypassing it..... I dont know how to go about doing that, but its something to try.....

onecad
01-29-04, 07:30 PM
no my friend....
the solenoid isn't getting any power to begin with.

When the key is in crank position the purple wire should have power wich activates the solenoid, but the purple wire is not getting the power. So the problem is not likely to be the power.

I need a manual diagnostic method to test the starter, since I have it right there and can see it. ( for example crossing posts with applying power to the purple wire)

There is no point in taking it out if that is the problem.

thanks

onecad
01-29-04, 09:09 PM
boy am I baffled.....after realizing there was no power at the purple wire going to the starter/solenoid signal post I decided to read about the starter enable relay/passlock system. I realized that that purple wire was fed power through the relay when the passlock activates it. So I bypassed the relay all togetherso that when I turned the key to crank it would just get power directly.

This allowed me to get the solenoid to click upon cranking the key, but still the starter would not crank.

What now????.....anyone?? It's now acting as though the starter solenoid has a problem, which was the original thought.

Is it possible that if the solenoid went, it then took the relay with it??

thanks

BeelzeBob
01-29-04, 09:43 PM
Take the purple wire off the solenoid at the connector. NOW turn on the key and check the purple wire for power. If the starter solenoid has shorted out it may just be pulling the purple wire to ground so that you cannot read any voltage on it. That would tend to explain your situation, acutally. The "clicking" you hear may be the circuit breaker resetting as it is supplying power to a dead short if the starter solenoid has shorted out. By disconnecting the purple wire it will not be connected to anything and you can check the power on it to make sure the rest of the circuit is working OK. If it has power on it when disconnected, I would assume that it has power when it is connected to the solenoid and that the solenoid is shorted and that is why the starter is not functioning. Stranger things have happened....LOL

onecad
01-29-04, 11:14 PM
well I got it working, and proud to say before I read bbobynski's post...lol...but he had it right on the money, the starter enable relay is fine, and it was shorting to ground due to the solenoid...everything is working and well...wheeeww!!!

thanks to all those who replied....this sight is very informative

BeelzeBob
01-30-04, 11:15 AM
well I got it working, and proud to say before I read bbobynski's post...lol...but he had it right on the money, the starter enable relay is fine, and it was shorting to ground due to the solenoid...everything is working and well...wheeeww!!!

thanks to all those who replied....this sight is very informative

Cool. Glad you found it. Now wasn't the starter much easier to replace than everyone makes out...???? Lot's better than lying on your back in the snow with dirt and rust falling into your face, eh...???

onecad
01-30-04, 10:10 PM
ok...now im pi$$ed...the damn thing seems to be doing it again, its not starting, just clicking...what the F**k now.


tabernacle

onecad
01-31-04, 01:08 PM
lol...this is too funny.
I went out to thcar this morning and the car started.

Is it just not working when the engine is hot?

anyone have any input??

thanks

lido
01-31-04, 07:34 PM
Have you check the cable that is connected to the starter motor?I'm talking about the big red cable that run from the pos.terminal of the battery to the starter motor.That cable is piggyback with another double cable that supply power to the main fuse panel and to the alternator.Some times there is corrrosion between the starter cable and the double cable,everything function since its all coming from the double cable but there is resistance to the starter cable,make sure that its real clean if any doubt replace it you already have the intake out.

BeelzeBob
02-02-04, 02:38 PM
lol...this is too funny.
I went out to thcar this morning and the car started.

Is it just not working when the engine is hot?

anyone have any input??

thanks

Check the cables themselves for internal corrosion and high resistance.

I guess you have to get back to basics, again, and determine if you are getting the crank signal (voltage on the purple wire) when you hear the click. It could be the starter or the solenoid or the cables.

Was the starter replaced with a used starter or a new one or...???

onecad
02-03-04, 08:44 AM
ok....the starter has only acted up on me the one time, so I am going to hold off on taking it out until it happens again.

i'll keep posting my findings.
thanks

onecad
02-05-04, 10:56 AM
Again....,

The starter wouldn't crank over after driving it for about 20 minutes, I waited another 5 minutes to turn it over and it then cranked over after holding the key for a bout 5 to 6 seconds. I would here a click then the car would crank over and start.
I now know when it "is" going to start because 1 second after I hear a click noise the starter engages. So I am guessing this starter is a piece of crap and I need another.

Yes, NO?

Both times this has happened is when the car is warm, and the delay always seems to be worse when it does start.

onecad
02-05-04, 03:36 PM
Problem solved.

I had taken off my battery connections, the negative I had cleaned previously so it was fine.
The positive however was quite dirty, so I cleaned it with a wire brush and some wd40, and between the 2 ends as much as I could, and it fixed it. No more delay, nothing but ignition there now!
I was pretty sure I had cleaned it previously, must had over-looked it. Sorry for waisting bandwidth on the last part of this thread.

joe

BeelzeBob
02-05-04, 03:45 PM
Problem solved.

I had taken off my battery connections, the negative I had cleaned previously so it was fine.
The positive however was quite dirty, so I cleaned it with a wire brush and some wd40, and between the 2 ends as much as I could, and it fixed it. No more delay, nothing but ignition there now!
I was pretty sure I had cleaned it previously, must had over-looked it. Sorry for waisting bandwidth on the last part of this thread.

joe

Ahhhh..... one more case of trouble shot....and one more dirty battery cable/terminal to add to the mountain of evidence that says that the terminals are the FIRST thing to check....LOL glad you found it.

lido
02-06-04, 09:50 PM
Just an advice,the best way to fix that problem is to replace both of the positive cables.i think its about $200 for both cables,some times you can't see the corrosion inside the cable after changing it it works fine.Don't forget to coat the terminal with some kind of protector like dioxit or something.