: Switched to Mobil-1 and oil consumption dropped



thu
05-23-06, 02:51 PM
I used to have to add one quart of oil per 1000 miles when I used dinosaur oil.

At the last oil change, I switched to Mobil-1 synthetic and oil consumption has been cut at least by half. I drive 500-600 miles a week.

Why is this? I thought that oil consumption would at least be the same and expected higher. The only real difference in driving conditions is that warmer weather is here. I don't know how that affects oil usage.

I didn't change viscosity.

I have about 2500 to 3000 miles on the current oil. It's down a quart but haven't added any yet. The oil is still golden-honey in color.

Some of you may ask, 'why did you switch from dino to full syn?'.

- The price of regular motor oil has climbed to an avg of about $2/qt here in Wyoming. I've noticed that a 5 quart bottle of Mobil-1 5W-30 is still $20, or $4/qt. It used to be that regular oil was $1/qt and Mobil-1 was $5/qt. Now that the price differential between the two has diminished drastically and oil changes are now between 10,000 and 12,000 miles, I'm changing oil only once or twice a year. Thus, the $15 difference per oil change 'is in the noise'.

- I've always used Mobil-1 with spectacular results on my other Caddys. 235,000 on '85 Deville, 298,000 miles on '93 Deville - engine still going strong.

- In the winter, the engine cranks easier, presumably putting less strain on the battery, starter, etc. Yes, it gets cold enough here (about -30*F, sometimes -40*C) in the winter to make a difference that is easily noticed.

Anyways, just wondering why my oil consumption has dropped so much after switch to Mobil-1. Another good test will be to switch back to dino to see if the oil consumption goes back to prior levels, but that won't be for a good long while....

dkozloski
05-23-06, 09:54 PM
There is an unsubstantiated rumor that synthetic oil mists less in the crankcase so less is carried out the breather(PVC) system. If so this would cause a sizable drop in oil consumption.

codewize
05-23-06, 10:16 PM
Very interesting. I have never used synth oil because I don't see the point. But an interesting thought none the less.



There is an unsubstantiated rumor that synthetic oil mists less in the crankcase so less is carried out the breather(PVC) system. If so this would cause a sizable drop in oil consumption.

JimHare
05-24-06, 12:39 AM
I have about 2500 to 3000 miles on the current oil. It's down a quart but haven't added any yet. The oil is still golden-honey in color.

When did M-1 change color? Last time I saw any out of the can it was pitch black????

caddydaddy
05-24-06, 09:58 AM
I use M1 in my 2000 STS and beat on it hard. I maybe have a 1/2 quart consumption per 5,000 miles.

dkozloski
05-24-06, 11:28 AM
codewize, aircooled aircraft engines can be heavy breathers and one sure fire way to reduce oil consumption and clean up the belly is to switch to a synthetic oil. The low misting was related to me by a Shell oil company engineer.

thu
05-24-06, 03:14 PM
When did M-1 change color? Last time I saw any out of the can it was pitch black????

When you view it on the dipstick, all oils I've used is golden-honey in color right after an oil change.

thu
05-24-06, 03:17 PM
codewize, aircooled aircraft engines can be heavy breathers and one sure fire way to reduce oil consumption and clean up the belly is to switch to a synthetic oil. The low misting was related to me by a Shell oil company engineer.

I never thought of switching to synthetics in the airplanes I fly. What I've done to three (piston-engined) airplanes was to have air-oil separators installed.

The amount of oil dumped overboard out the engine breather can be stunning - sometimes as much as a quart per hour at high power. Yes, it winds up on the belly and cleanup is sometimes a big mess.

thu
05-24-06, 03:19 PM
I use M1 in my 2000 STS and beat on it hard. I maybe have a 1/2 quart consumption per 5,000 miles.

That is awesome. I just checked my Odometer and it's been almost 4000 miles since my last oil change.

The oil level indicated on the dipstick is at the bottom of the hash portion. Does that indicate one quart or two quarts low?

JimHare
05-25-06, 05:49 PM
When you view it on the dipstick, all oils I've used is golden-honey in color right after an oil change.

What color is it coming out of the bottle? I'm not doubting you, I just thought it was odd if Mobil changed the color of M/1 - I remember when it first came out I used it in a turbocharged Isuzu Impulse, and a turbocharged Chrysler Laser (mid 80s') and the stuff was pitch black - supposedly because of the graphite in it.

Perhaps the formulation has changed?...just curious.

Ranger
05-25-06, 06:52 PM
What color is it coming out of the bottle? I'm not doubting you, I just thought it was odd if Mobil changed the color of M/1 - I remember when it first came out I used it in a turbocharged Isuzu Impulse, and a turbocharged Chrysler Laser (mid 80s') and the stuff was pitch black - supposedly because of the graphite in it.

Perhaps the formulation has changed?...just curious.
I think that was so you couldn't tell what it looked like if you followed the extended service intervals they used to recommend (maybe still do for all I know). Looks just like the day you put it in 25K ago. :)

caddydaddy
05-25-06, 07:35 PM
It's an amber color, just like all other motor oils! I never knew it was black!

thu
05-25-06, 09:42 PM
I have *never* seen black motor oil when it was new. It just *looks* black because as you pour it out, you're looking through a thick portion of it. Look at it as it's just dribbling out or on the dipstick and it's amber/golden-honey.

Mobil-1 has *always* been amber in color. I've been using it for more than ten years.

dkozloski
05-26-06, 03:24 AM
Atlantic Richfield used to peddle a motor oil that contained graphite and was as black as black could get.

JimHare
05-26-06, 07:06 AM
Atlantic Richfield used to peddle a motor oil that contained graphite and was as black as black could get.


Koz, you know what? I may be thinking of "Arco Graphite" - that's what you are talking about, and the synapses are starting to fail here and there in the old cocoanut - but it could be that's the stuff that I remember being black.

I take it all back.. :):eek: :confused: :bang2: :bang2:

dp102288
05-26-06, 10:33 AM
If you use synthetic, how do you know when to change the oil? I am assuming the Oil Life System is no longer valid.

thu
05-26-06, 01:11 PM
Why would it not be valid when using syn?

Ranger
05-26-06, 08:56 PM
Follow the OLM whether using dino or synthetic.

thu
05-29-06, 02:36 AM
Yes, that's the smartest thing to do - follow the OLI.

dp102288
05-30-06, 09:55 AM
Doesn't the synthetic last longer than regular oil?

JimHare
05-31-06, 10:47 AM
Has been covered before, but, to answer your question, NOT NECESSARILY. Synthetic's main benefit, if any, is better cold starting when temps are really really down there - below zero.

From what I've read, synthetic and regular dino have pretty much the same amount of additives and other stuff like that, and they deplete at pretty much the same rate. You may get a very slight increase in the length of time, but not all that much.

Also, have read that synthetic, because of it's lower initial viscosity, may seek out and find very tiny leaks that the dino oil didn't squeeze through, and you may find yourself dripping more than before. Possible, not inevitable, though.

Whichever you use, it's still best to follow the OLM regarding changes.

GreenMachine
05-31-06, 12:59 PM
I use kendall synthetic blend, oil consumption between changes is almost not noticeable, 5w-30 in the winter, next change for the summer will be 10w-30. 98' Deville.

thu
06-08-06, 02:32 PM
I just remembered that when the Sears guy was changing the oil, he accidentally added one quart of 10w-30. The rest was 5w-30. I didn't think this was a big deal esp. going into summmer. This was back in early April or so, 4000+ miles ago.

Maybe the one quart (out of seven) of a bit thicker oil caused the 75% reduced oil consumption?

If so, this is a very interesting find.

Submariner409
06-08-06, 03:15 PM
I've been running Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5W-30 in Maryland, 2002 STS, 32,000, and use 16 oz. in 2000 mi. of 60/40 highway/town driving. (Same in a Ford F-150 4X4 w/4.6 engine.) Using WIX filters, too. New oil is Corona straw yellow, going to light amber after a few thousand miles. 26.5 mpg road, 19-20 town, anyone's 87 octane (93 0n weekends.......).We're running 10% ethanol juice in central Maryland.

Submariner409
06-08-06, 03:21 PM
From what I hear, synthetic has no bearing on the accuracy of the monitor. Do what it tells you.

codewize
06-08-06, 03:54 PM
I would like to state for the record that part of the reason we change oil is do to contaminates, not only breakdown. Thus is to say that if your fancy $19 per qt oil is rated to 20k miles that's great but now you need to find an oil filter that will consume 20k miles worth of crap without breaking down.

I know these numbers are exaggerated and I know that you can drive an oil filter for a long time but you see the point. Change the oil and filter every 5k and your in great shape. Most N* books say 12k or one year, whichever comes first. That's about as long as I'll go on any car even though there is a large oil volume for the engine size.

I use Valvoline 10-30 in all my cars during my oil change ritual, which I have stated previously. I have run every Cadillac I've ever owned to well over 200k without blinking an eye. I intend on doing the same with the N*.

thu
06-08-06, 04:15 PM
use 16 oz. in 2000 mi.
Lesseeee.....Oil is about 8 pounds per gallon. 16 oz is 1 lb. 1 lb of oil is 1/8 of a gallon or 1/2 a quart.

1/2 a quart in 2000 miles is what my oil consumption is (1 qt per 4000 miles).

As for 10% Ethanol, do you *have* to buy it? I mean, is it mandated by law over there?

Just wondering, because if you switched to straight gasoline, your already impressive mileage figures should improve by one or two points.

Here in Wyoming, 10% ethanol (Gasahol) is more expensive than straight gasoline.

GreenMachine
06-08-06, 11:04 PM
^and I think anything over 7/8% ins't recommended in the northstar. could be wrong though.

cl1986
06-08-06, 11:47 PM
where do you people get that ethanol gives worse milage??? Weve had it here for 10 years and it keeps the fuel system clean and in turn gives better milage....maybe when first switching over it may decrease buts thats due to all the contaminents being flushed down the lines into the motor becasue of the old dirty non ethanol gas clogged everything up.....cars that always run ethanol dont get worse milage.....

Man, where do you guys get this stuff......LOL!!!!

The main reason i was going to post is that synthetic oil will decrease heat in the motor......not coolant temp, but oil temp......

thu
06-09-06, 02:41 AM
Mebbe we should start a new thread to talk about the ethanol question? Also, I think there might another thread that already discusses this....

GreenMachine
06-09-06, 10:07 AM
I figured ethonal gives less gas mileage because the flex fuel vechicles at GM have MPG ratings. One on standar gas, and one on E85 Ethonal. The E85 rating shows less MPG. Currently Ethonal also costs more than gasoline, and that is one of the main reasons for the large gas spike that occured at the beginning of spring/summer.

For the 2006 Avalance E85 for example:
Engines EPA Estimated MPG city/hwy.
Vortec 5.3L V8
2WD (gasoline) 15/21
2WD FlexFuel (E85) 11/15
4x4 (gasoline) 15/20
4x4 FlexFuel (E85) 12/16

cl1986
06-09-06, 07:43 PM
E85 is a totally different ball game.....

Ethanol in SD is alwasy 5 cents cheaper and has 2 points higher octane rating and has been this way for 10 years..... i have no idea why ethanol would be more in WY, are u sure you arnt comparing octane 85 gas to octane 89 gas with ethanol, then i would see why the 85 cotane is cheaper, you have to look at the whole picture not just if it has ethanol or not........

About half of the premium gas here is ethanol as well at 91 or 92 octane points where super unleaded anywhere here is 89 octane with 10 % ethanol and always is the same or better for fuel milage........

If you havent run ethanol for over a year in a car then dont even post, i already explained all the contaminent things, im not supporting ethanol either, even though im in SD i could care less about farming corn..... i just know how this works and have been using it for 10 years so if you havent then dont reply with your " i think ethanol does this" statements then......

I do know when i go to WY the gas out there is only 85 octane and premium is like 88 octane and the gas is same price as here in SD so WY is getting screwed big time.......

thu
06-09-06, 08:17 PM
Gasahol (otherwise known as E10) is 85 octane here.

Mid-grade is 87 and is pretty much always ten cents more a gallon than 85 octane.

Premium is 91 and is twenty cents more a gallon than 85

Gasahol is more expensive than straight 85 octane gasoline here.

After the huge Federal subsidy, gasahol often sells for less than straight gasoline. However, the station here that sells it has the prices for all their grades of gasoline higher than the non-gasahol stations.

Straight Ethanol has 70% of the energy content of straight gasoline.

Ranger
06-09-06, 08:33 PM
where do you people get that ethanol gives worse milage??? Weve had it here for 10 years and it keeps the fuel system clean and in turn gives better milage....maybe when first switching over it may decrease buts thats due to all the contaminents being flushed down the lines into the motor becasue of the old dirty non ethanol gas clogged everything up.....cars that always run ethanol dont get worse milage.....

Man, where do you guys get this stuff......LOL!!!!


Alcohol (ethanol) is something like 30 -50% less efficient than gasoline. The larger percentage you burn, the lower your MPG will be.

cl1986
06-09-06, 09:52 PM
I guess that 20-30% explains my last trip at 28 MPH going 80 MPH.......wow, didnt know i would get some 30+ MPG if i used regular gas.....yeah right.....

Again, ethanol ususaly scores same or better since everything stays clean.....

Ive ran both, dont care about the articles you found this is real life stuff not some crap saying the energy is 20% less, dont care about the figures on energy, the MPG are the same, even if you say its 80% loss i still dont care, the MPG are the same.............................................. .........end of story...

cl1986
06-09-06, 09:56 PM
This is just like the post where i said the best milage is when get up to speed at about half throttle (even 3/4 throttle works better)then set the cruise, the sooner you get up to speed the sooner you start saving gas, there were 3 pages of "no thats not how it works" and then finally someone tried it and posted back that half throttle is the best way since they actuall tried it in person and got better results....this is for highway and interstate driving not 25 MPH in town......

cl1986
06-09-06, 10:01 PM
Gasahol (otherwise known as E10) is 85 octane here.

Mid-grade is 87 and is pretty much always ten cents more a gallon than 85 octane.

Premium is 91 and is twenty cents more a gallon than 85

Gasahol is more expensive than straight 85 octane gasoline here.

After the huge Federal subsidy, gasahol often sells for less than straight gasoline. However, the station here that sells it has the prices for all their grades of gasoline higher than the non-gasahol stations.

Straight Ethanol has 70% of the energy content of straight gasoline.

Here its lowest grade is 87 at $1.60, 89 with ethanol at $1.58, and premium 91 with ethanol at $1.72, some stations have premium 93 at $1.75

thu
06-09-06, 10:21 PM
Using 10% ethanol-laced gasoline results in 1 or 2 points lower MPG. Some people might not notice the difference, but I certainly do.

Where in South Dakota did you find these gas prices?

There's an long ethanol-as-fuel discussion going on at the 'other' Cadillac site:

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9516

Anyways, back to the original thread....

At oil change time, one quart of 10w-30 was added with the other six quarts of 5w-30. This might account for the 75% less oil consumption.

I bet if I changed oil again and used only 5w-30 that my oil consumption will shoot back up to 1 quart every 1000 miles. Unfortunately, oil change time won't come for another 5,000 or 6,000 miles!

Ranger
06-09-06, 11:00 PM
Using 10% ethanol-laced gasoline results in 1 or 2 points lower MPG. Some people might not notice the difference, but I certainly do.


That has been my EXPIRIENCE, not figures or articles.

cl1986
06-10-06, 11:58 AM
So you can tell if you get 1 MPG less??? What if the wind blows 1 MPH faster that day??

Im in Tea SD, right by Sioux Falls....

Submariner409
06-10-06, 12:30 PM
For my blurb on 10% ethanol, yes, we're required to run it in Maryland, and most of the northeast as well. All stations and distributors had to undergo a pretty thorough tank cleaning and secondary filter installation process. Seems like the blend is very solvent (cleaning-wise) and can only tolerate 4 teaspoons of free water per gallon before the ethanol/water mix precipitates out of the gasoline. Take a look at www.epa.gov/otaq/fuels.htm and surf around. Marine fuels also, which is where I started to hear of the May 312 change here. Jim

GreenMachine
06-10-06, 06:21 PM
Here E85 is more expensive, and the gasoline with just 10% ethonal 87 octane is MORE expensive than the 93 octane. You pay more for less fuel economy.

The reason why gas prices soared this spring was because all gasoline contains ethonal for the summer blend of gasoline.

As far as ethonal giving better fuel economy because its cleaner, that is true, and untrue, if your buying gas from no name pump 1 then yes the ethonal is cleaner, but with the cleaning and detergents in companies like Shell, Mobil, Exxon, etc they are well above the minumum level of detergents to keep your engine running.

One example of the standards is http://www.toptiergas.com/index.html

Submariner409
06-10-06, 09:34 PM
GreenMachine, The reference to the "cleaning" action of ethanol-based fuels is that the blended fuel itself is more solvent (read: paint thinner) than normal, fortified, clean, filtered, U.S. gasolines. The stuff tends to clean your local dealer's system, then dump the result into your tank until the whole shebang is cleaned. We ran into this when configuring for marine fuel delivery here in upper Chesapeake Bay Eastern Maryland. It WILL NOT be a biggie for the average 20-25 gallon per week motorist. It really plays a part for a boater who lets his/her vessel sit for a month or so with the attendant condensation that takes place in an idle fuel tank. BUT, after several years of MTBE fuel use, you MAY experience a fuel filter clogging problem if you run 10% ethanol.......YeeeeHaaa!

cl1986
06-10-06, 11:23 PM
Here its lowest grade is 87 at $1.60, 89 with ethanol at $1.58, and premium 91 with ethanol at $1.72, some stations have premium 93 at $1.75

Ok obviosly these are $2 instead of $1 i had a brain fart....

And NY must be retarded, they didnt start making ethanol to increase gas prices..... maybe NY should plant some corn and put up some ethanol plants..... that defeats the purpose of cheaper gas.....

Ethanol should be cheaper and is here in the midwest which includes about 6 states....there were no price spikes here due to spring coming....if anything the price went down.......

Im still trying to figure out this summer winter gas thing, theres no such thing!!!!!! We buy ethanol all year round -40F to 110F, they must be really screwed up out there in the east!!!!!

Oh i see, the winter fuel is only on E85 and only needed at -20F and is E70, that makes sense....

You guys need to read up on stuff......ethanol contains 70% of the energy of gas but delivers 5-9% increase in power, in 9 of 10 places is cheaper than gas, E10 is run all year round, Contains 80% less gum-forming compounds, like olefins found in gasoline, ethanol has an octane rating of 112.5, rubber and fuel system problems are only for pre 1988 models, post 1988 were made for ethanol in mind......there i didnt know any of this before but i do now.....

GreenMachine
06-11-06, 06:56 PM
Yeah I read my manual, says something about methonal not being used and it could damage this or that, my mistake, recalled that wrong and thought it said ethanol.

Still goes back to, if ethonal fuel gives an increase in power than why does GM rate their flex fuel vehicles when on flex fuel much lower than when they run on regular gasoline?

The benefits of E85 are basically a reduction in emmisions and lessens the strain on regular petrol. The trade of is poorer fuel economy and a slightly more expensive.

The reason why gas prices are shooting up this summer is because the additive "MTBE" or "methyl tertiary butyl ether" now outlawed from gasoline (cause ground water contamintation). So ethanol is now in ALL fuel to some extent.

This caused the price spike and I even remember going out to colorado that there were several stations that had the 10% mix but it was slightly more expensive than the next grade higher (octane rating higher).

Anyway here's the article on why gas prices went up with the "summer blend"
http://money.howstuffworks.com/gas-price1.htm
http://money.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=gas-price.htm&url=http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/03/gas_ethanol.html

qoute from article:
"New federal rules were enacted for summer 2006, which will require all oil companies to use the same ethanol-additive gasoline currently used in the Midwest. This will probably contribute to a raise in prices nationwide, as it will be difficult for Midwest ethanol producers to provide enough ethanol to the rest of the country in time."


Here's an article about the "blends" of gas for the seasons (purpose is to reduce smog/emmission for the summer, not all areas adapt it some don't need too):
http://www.slate.com/id/2098672?src=NetxAutos%22

cl1986
06-11-06, 11:33 PM
So in other words, an all out major demand for ethanol to all areas increased the price of gas in other than midwest areas....

Sooooo.... that is only temporary....dozens of ethanol plants are going up as we speak, and if NY and other areas would do the same it wouldnt be a problem....

So for now we in the midwest will buy the gas cheaper and all those elsewhere may pay higher prices...all due to the midwest making the majority of the ethanol, thats not our fault, any place can plant corn and build ethanol plants....they will just have to GET WITH IT i guess....

its funny how SD is one of the most tech advanced areas, has 5mb cable internet access, EROS DATA center, and we have a complex that distributes 70% of the US direct deposit paychecks.....and then people think we still ride a horse and buggy here.....that is truly funny!!!!

JohnnyO
06-16-06, 10:14 PM
The OLM is calibrated for dino oil. Synthetic oil WILL allow a longer drain interval, however if you want to run it past the OLM then you should get a used oil analysis to be sure after each oil change and stretch it out a little more each time depending on the report. Anything else is just speculation. I get UOA's just for kicks, but I ran Mobil 1 in my dad's car for 12,000 miles, OLM was down to about 6%, and the UOA came back great.
That said, a UOA costs about $20 which isn't much less than an AC filter and 7 quarts of Mobil 1, so you might as well just change the oil as per the OLM.
My understanding is that on older N*s, the oil "cokes up" in the rings causing the rings to stick which causes oil consumption. In my opinion synthetic oil is less likely to do that, so it's possible that syn will lessen oil consumption. If it works for you, keep on keepin' on.
My mother's '99 burns oil like a two-stroke regardless, my dad's '04 never burns a drop. Just for fun I'm running Valvoline Max Life 10w-30 in her car to see if it makes a difference. Too soon to tell.