: New Forum Member Here

03-26-03, 09:19 AM
Hi everyone,
I am a new forum member and wanted to say Hi.
I little background about me: I am a rear-wheel drive nut who likes comfort, power, and good handling cars. All of my cars aI have acquired new. We keep 'em, drive 'em, fix'em, and enjoy 'em. They become part of our family. We have an 1984 Olds 98 Regency 4dr, 174K miles; 1990 Lincoln MK VII LSC with 155K; and a 2000 Corvette Coupe with 20k miles. Unfortunately, the oil pressure is starting to go in the Olds -- big decision, rebuild or cut loose and get something new. I keep waiting for the Caddy CTS with the V-8, but golly days, what's taking so long? Either Vette engine will be just grand especially if they really put the Vette engine (you can tell by the entremely flat, cast alum. oil pan) in it and not just the Camaro/Firebird 5.7L version.
I have enjoyed reading other memebers posts here and look forward to many more in the months to come.

Gordon B.

03-26-03, 09:29 AM
Glad to have you aboard Gordon!

03-26-03, 09:40 AM
Welcome Gordon,
I have a soft spot for RWD cars as well. I have a slightly customized '86 LSC in the driveway right now too. Black w/tan interior Limited Edition model.
Your Olds is getting weak huh? Strange, I must admit I've rarely seen a 307 go bad like that at such low mileage.

03-26-03, 12:33 PM
Welcome aboard, Gordon! You made it! I'm glad to see ya.. That's a nice list of cars you have there.. The Vette and LSC being my two favorite of the bunch... I think the CTS will be out sometime this year...

03-26-03, 01:15 PM
I too am surprised at the 307 going out so quickly. I had one in an '84 Cutlass. They really don't make enough horsepower to do themselves any harm! :) Seriously, the Olds V8 is a very reliable engine and usually provides good service. I'd take out the 307 and put in an Olds 350/403. Get you a 403 out of a 77-79 Regency and you'll be good to go. Completely a bolt-in procedure. You'll need some of the electrical components from your 307 (like the dist. and carb.), but in general, it's an easy swap. I did it on an '87 Regal. Hit me back if you want more info. on it.

03-26-03, 04:37 PM

03-26-03, 05:39 PM
Welcome aboard Gordon, I've got a thing for RWD as well, but once I drove a Cadillac, well, you know how it is.

my other cars are 2002 GMC Sonoma and 1989 GMC Safari.
I use the Sonoma for work, and my Safari to tow my boat.

03-27-03, 09:30 AM
Thanks for the suggestion. I work with a guy who is a pro at engine swapping. I'll either have him rebuild mine or have him swap it out for a 350/400 small block. Unfortunately, my wife drives that car and hasn't found anything better she would like to drive -- fully loaded incl. factory sunroof (huge!) that doesn't compare with the puny ones they install at the factory nowadays.
I need to keep it street legal here in the Calif. of the east (Maryland) for emissions since I have 5 1/2 yesrs to go before I can put antique/class/ etc. for tags and avoid emissions testing.
The first 80K miles on the Olds engine were using Mobil 1 oil, but the payback was not at all evident when I removed the valve covers for gasket replacement. Subsequently, I went to plain old dino oil.

03-27-03, 04:46 PM
Good move on the switch to mineral oil. This is only speculation, but was the Mobil 1 the cause of your low oil pressure?

If you have a need for emissions, I'd stick with the 307. That's the last year for the "good" heads (5A) and intake manifold (A4 -- that's aluminum, ya know). If you look at an 85+ 307, you'll notice it has 7A heads and an A5 intake. Those have puny intake/exhaust ports and don't breathe as well. Yours is a good engine and when rebuilt, should provide years of good service again.

03-28-03, 08:17 AM
Thank you for the update. Did not know that GM changed the heads and intake from 84 to 85. Knew that they ran that engine into the late 80s in the Caddy Fleetwood and the Olds wagon.
As for the oil pressure, you can't ever prove anything, but when I R&Red the valve covers around 75-80K miles for new gaskets, there was a lot of varnish. Never would have expected to see that from Mobil 1. It may be that subsequently that I was not as fastidious about my oil changes with dino oil as i should have been. In any event, my Vette runs 5W30 Mobil 1 from the factory and things seem OK -- won't know about it until I tear into it as some point.

03-28-03, 08:51 AM
The Vettes that got the Mobil 1 as factory fill, did so because the OEM omitted an oil cooler due to lack of space on that model. The OEM WILL turn down any engine warranty claims if they can prove that Mobil 1 was not used in the engine. Matter of fact, the first thing they request upon initiation of the claim is a oil sample from the dealer.

03-28-03, 09:08 AM
I was aware of the claims issue thing. The car companies will always try to wiggle out of stuff -- saves them money, gains them customer ill-will, and btw, they don't seem to care.
However, you just need to document with receipts and make sure you have a witness if you are changing your own oil, etc.
I've seen some neat ads way back when for Mobil 1 with cabs and the like, but the falacy there is the lack of duty cycles. Most cabs run all day. Normal cars are started, driven, stopped, shut down, cooled down and then it begins all over. For me, I won't use synthetic in anything except for vehichles that specifically call for it as factory fill. That's just me and bang for the buck.
I used to have a neighbor who was an engineer for NASA and could get TriCresylPhosphate (sp?) and had documented tests using Mobil 1 with and without that additive. The test results were impressive. The company that made the additive was in Jersey City. We would add about 4 oz ( a small paper cup full) to a crankcase refill.