: Tell me how to do a WOT.



dp102288
05-13-06, 10:25 AM
I read how to do a WOT on the CadillacOwners.com webpage, but I think I am confused.

How exactly should it be done? I would like step by step instructions. From what I understand, I should let the engine warm up, and then take it to the highway. Then bring it up to about 55 mph. Then I should drop it in second gear, and floor it. Then let off the gas.

This seems so unsafe to me. I am afraid that by dropping it in second, the RPMs will jump too fast, and that could crack my N*. Then floor it?! This thing kills me when I put it half way down. And what do I have in my ETC, and L37 or LD8?

Is this what I have to do? Am I missing something? I really would like to do one, as I read that it is good for the eninge rings, and cleans out some of the carbon.

black93sts
05-13-06, 11:21 AM
WOT is just when you depress the accelerator fully.

In other words, FLOOR IT! It shouldn't matter what gear its in, as the whole point of the WOT is just to make sure the engine gets clear of all that carbon build up. The N* is a performance engine, and every so often, it needs to be taken to its limits. You'll see lots of cases of old people bringing in their northstar devilles, etc. and the engine will have tons of build up because old people never do WOTs...

fpmesiIII
05-13-06, 12:39 PM
Here's what you do, drive the car around for like 20 minutes or so. make sure the coolant needle is straight up, meaning around 200 degrees or so. then make sure you are on an empty road, say highway speed limit 55 or 65. (i do mine on 55 highways) but if you are particular about your speed hop on a 65mph speed limit one.

once on your desired road/highway make sure no one is behind you or around you. (i usually do my WOT's in the left hand lane) then once the conditions are right, get the speedometer to 55. once its at 55. put the car into 2nd gear, and put your pedal to the metal, in other words give your calve muscle a stretch haha. look in your rear view mirror to see if there is any brown soot coming from the exhaust.

keep your foot pressed to the floor until your tachometer hits the red zone and automatically down shifts. you will feel this shift. after you feel this shift, let completely off the gas and let the car break itself back down to 55 mph. once at 55 press your gas peddle to the floor and check again for brown soot coming out the exhaust, keep repeating this procedure until there is no soot coming out.

once there is no soot coming out you have likely gave your engine and exhaust a good cleaning. do this cleaning/fun procedure about once a week, i say. some recommend more, some recommend less. once a week is fine for me.

oh btw, your engine is the L37 engine,

here is some info. about your engine from wikipedia.


"The L37 was the original Northstar. It is tuned for responsiveness and power, while the later LD8 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadillac_Northstar_engine#LD8) is designed for more sedate use. The L37 code has been used on all high-output tranverse Northstars, even as the exact engine specifications evolved.

The original L37 was specified at 290 hp (216 kW), but 1993 production examples were rated at 295 hp (220 kW). The engine topped out at 300 hp (224 kW) from 1996 through 2002 on the STS and ETC models, making these some of the most powerful front wheel drive cars ever built, the most powerful title still belonging to the first generation (1966-70) Oldsmobile Toronado with 385 hp/475 ft·lbf. in 1966-67 (425 ci, 7.0 L) and 375 hp/510 ft·lbf (400 hp/ 500 ft·lbf. with W-34 option code) in the 1968-70 (455 ci, 7.5 L) Toronado."



if you have any questions just ask

Dadillac
05-13-06, 01:28 PM
There really isn't any need to do WOT at cruising speeds. When I first got my car, it was carboned up. I got rid of the carbon, with WOT, on highway on ramps, and from traffic lights. The only need, is to get the RPM's up. You can easily do this in first gear, from a stop or a roll, as you can from 55-65. When enterring a highway on ramp, let's say RTE 287, as soon as you get clear, floor it. If you are carboned up, you will hear what sounds similar to pre-ignition, and if you look in the rear view mirror, you will see a grey/black smoke from the exhaust. If you hear and see nothing, your engine is in good shape, and you can stop doing it. Now you can do WOT in succession, until it is cleared, or you can do as I do, and do it over several days (if the engine is heavily carboned). The key is to get the engine clear of carbon. There are may ways to do it.

Don

dp102288
05-13-06, 06:06 PM
once its at 55. put the car into 2nd gear

This will shoot the RPMs very high won't it? I am scared of the sudden increase will hurt something. Is this safe?


keep your foot pressed to the floor until your tachometer hits the red zone and automatically down shifts. you will feel this shift.

Downshift? I though in second the car only stays in second. Please elaborate.


WOT, on highway on ramps, and from traffic lights

You just floored it?! Wouldn't this make my tires screech and then the traction control will kick in? I can't press the pedal halfway without some kind screeching my tires.


Could I just rev the engine in my driveway? Would this have the same effect, or does the car needs to have the transmission engaged to create the high pressures?

I am sure my engine has a lot of carbon in it, I have never done it (7+ years ownership). Will the smoke/soot create a specticle on the roadway?

Ranger
05-13-06, 06:37 PM
Reving it in the driveway will not work. First off it will hit the rev limiter at about 4K I believe. Secondly, it needs to be under load.

Placing the gear selector in 2nd will not keep it in second. The car is smart enough to shift when it gets to red line.

Owners manual says you can down shift into second up to 50 or 55 MPH I believe. Check it to be sure.

Just start out in second. Slowly mash your foot into it and you should not spin the tires. I nail mine after I get it rolling and never spin them. After it shifts, let it back down. I doubt you create a spectical. It won't smoke that much. Your rapid acceleration will be more of a spectical than the smoke or soot.

fpmesiIII
05-13-06, 11:54 PM
all we are saying is we cant force you to do it. i mean i would do it for you. but in the end you just have to overcome your fear, and Just Do It.

dp102288
05-14-06, 08:29 AM
Ooooooooooh. The car shall shift. Good, one less problem. I will put it into second around 45 to avoid any other problems. I shall try it on Route 1 this afternoon. I will report back soon with results.

JimHare
05-14-06, 08:48 AM
On another note here, when you MANUALLY shift into 2nd at about 55 or so, then floor it, the engine will naturally rev up higher as your speed increases. At just about the redline or a little over it, the engine/trans will UPSHIFT into 3rd, not DOWNSHIFT as a previous poster noted...

Its important to realise the engine will AUTOMATICALLY upshift to 3rd when you hit the redline.

Then you let off the gas, the car will slow a bit and then DOWNSHIFT back into 2nd gear. Its this 3rd to 2nd that puts a nice vacuum load on the cylinders and helps to purge any built up carbon and other deposits.Let the speed fall again to about 50-60 and hit the floor again. The engine will rev higher, the car will take off, and do the same thing - once the revs hit redline, it will AUTOMATICALLY shift up in to 3rd gear.

Rinse and Repeat, as the shampoo says. If there is a lot of crud in the engine, you'll see some white or gray smoke out the back end. If the engine is relatively clean, you may not see anything.

Depending on the state of your car, you may want to do this once every week, twice a month, or every other day, depending on need and the adrenaline rush you get. And local law enforcement coverage, although one good thing about this is that if you do it on a 65mph highway, you really shouldn't have too much to worry about in that regard.

Do not worry about the engine blowing itself up. This will not happen UNLESS there is already a failure imminent anyway, which would happen whether you are doing 20 or 70.

As our guru has noted in the past, Northstars are stress tested by running them at REDLINE for 36 hours straight. A few seconds will not harm your engine.

krimson_cardnal
05-14-06, 01:45 PM
thanks for a complete explaination of the WOT. i never realized the UP-SHIFT thing, guess i never really let it get to that point before.

some one might stickie this tread.........

fpmesiIII
05-14-06, 04:32 PM
"thanks for a complete explaination of the WOT. i never realized the UP-SHIFT thing, guess i never really let it get to that point before.

some one might stickie this tread........."


the technical archives states the procedure to a T. but this is a good thread for people who want a little more comfort on doing WOT's.

dp102288
05-14-06, 09:03 PM
SUCESS!! I have seen the smoke, and it was great. Engine must be clean as a whistle as I ran it about 5 times, first 2 were full of smoke. I got my shot when I was on the Turnpike/I95.

I am glad everyone here had ridded my fear of this, I am a better person because of it. I now realize the sheer amount of power living in the NorthStar. Life is good indeed. I never drove the car like that before, and we both wanted more.

On the downside, I find myself now driving faster on every single road because I need the speed. I am hooked on this car again, like the first time I drove it. My blood was pumping, and my pressure was up. I was alert and confident that the Caddy would look after me, and I it. I was doing 45 past a closed school tonight, I've got to watch it.

Thank you everyone. You are a truly great bunch.

WOTMODE
05-14-06, 09:13 PM
WOTmode. My name says it all. I'm at 170k miles and floor it daily. These motors can handle 600hp on a stock lower end. Going to red line does no harm.

Ranger
05-14-06, 09:16 PM
Yeah, be carfull. Trying to explain this to a cop will just get you a :rolleyes:.

krimson_cardnal
05-16-06, 01:05 PM
just took a look at the tech archive on WOT

perhaps, if a stickie isn't in order, updating the archive is, 'cause there's no mention of the up-shift when holding the tranny in second - it specifies taking it up to an appropriate red-line and letting off at that point to provide the high vacume condition required to clear things out.

if fact, it says put it in secound to take shifting out of the question "...if you are woried about hurting it..."


like i said before, first time i've heard about the up-shift out of a tranny held in second.

i try not to doubt - but to understand

JimHare
05-16-06, 03:54 PM
You are probably right - there is no mention of the upshift, but it does happen - even with the selector staying in 2nd gear. I suppose the engine management does it. In the old days, 2nd gear was 2nd gear, and your valves spring, cams, crank and rods would complain loudly at much over redline (just ask an old Austin owner.. ) but with all the computer management that this engine has, I'm not suprised that it does upshift, to protect the engine.

Perhaps someone with authority can update the Tech Archive to mention this, and help assauge some fears.

WOTMODE
05-17-06, 12:57 AM
I know from first hand experience, if you floor it, it will shift.

eldorado1
05-17-06, 01:41 PM
Placing the gear selector in 2nd will not keep it in second. The car is smart enough to shift when it gets to red line.


I have some general questions for you guys...

When you put it in 1st, and floor it... will it automatically shift to 2nd at redline? If you were to keep pushing it, would it automatically shift to 3rd??

Same question for 2nd (if you had enough road that is)... If you floor it, you mention it will shift to 3rd once the RPMs get too high. Will it shift to 4th if you kept pushing it?

Oh, and what happens if you "miss the gate" and shift it into 1st at 75mph? Does it stay in 4th or whatever?

WoodShoe
05-17-06, 05:52 PM
I have some general questions for you guys...

When you put it in 1st, and floor it... will it automatically shift to 2nd at redline? If you were to keep pushing it, would it automatically shift to 3rd??

Same question for 2nd (if you had enough road that is)... If you floor it, you mention it will shift to 3rd once the RPMs get too high. Will it shift to 4th if you kept pushing it?

Oh, and what happens if you "miss the gate" and shift it into 1st at 75mph? Does it stay in 4th or whatever?

Yes it certainly will. If u leave it in first, it will go through all the gears on the way up, and if u slow down, it will downshift through all the gears all the way back down to first. You can shift into first at top speed, and it will only shift down at the proper speed for the gear...Its pretty much fool proof.....If you leave it in first and mash it through the gears youre likely to get a nice squack between first and second...my pulls a chirp into third the odd time also.:thumbsup:

eldorado1
05-17-06, 06:24 PM
Has anyone actually tried for 4th when it's manually in 1st? I think that would require triple digits... :tisk:

:thumbsup:

Ranger
05-17-06, 07:59 PM
I tried 1st gear once not long ago. You'd be amazed at how fast it winds up and shifts into 2nd. Did not hold it there long, but I suspect you are correct about being tripple digits (or very close) by the time it went into 4th.

WoodShoe
05-18-06, 12:23 AM
I've done it a few times racing my buddies VR6 on the get on ramps.... :bouncy: .... it shifts into 4th at 204Km/H...thats like 127mp/h

auroradude
05-18-06, 06:22 PM
The ultimate test would be revving it to 4 or 5 g's in neutral and tossing the shifter into drive. I do not have the balls to do that, but people tell me it savse itself. Perhaps when my trans is on its way out i will give that a shot.

Or getting it up to 50 and throwing it into park. Im tempted to try that or reverse. very tempted. ::)

Murphyg
05-18-06, 06:57 PM
just took a look at the tech archive on WOT

perhaps, if a stickie isn't in order, updating the archive is, 'cause there's no mention of the up-shift when holding the tranny in second - it specifies taking it up to an appropriate red-line and letting off at that point to provide the high vacume condition required to clear things out.

if fact, it says put it in secound to take shifting out of the question "...if you are woried about hurting it..."


like i said before, first time i've heard about the up-shift out of a tranny held in second.

i try not to doubt - but to understand
Exactly what he said (krimson).
Have always wondered bout that myself. So to be on the safe side Id do a couple just before the shift then a couple after.

Am surprised it took this long till it was finally made clear.
This thread is the one.

codewize
05-21-06, 06:56 PM
So my 300HP N* in my 01 DTS is the L37 still?




"The L37 was the original Northstar. It is tuned for responsiveness and power, while the later LD8 is designed for more sedate use. The L37 code has been used on all high-output tranverse Northstars, even as the exact engine specifications evolved.

The original L37 was specified at 290 hp (216 kW), but 1993 production examples were rated at 295 hp (220 kW). The engine topped out at 300 hp (224 kW) from 1996 through 2002 on the STS and ETC models, making these some of the most powerful front wheel drive cars ever built, the most powerful title still belonging to the first generation (1966-70) Oldsmobile Toronado with 385 hp/475 ft·lbf. in 1966-67 (425 ci, 7.0 L) and 375 hp/510 ft·lbf (400 hp/ 500 ft·lbf. with W-34 option code) in the 1968-70 (455 ci, 7.5 L) Toronado."



if you have any questions just ask

fpmesiIII
05-21-06, 09:19 PM
So my 300HP N* in my 01 DTS is the L37 still?

yes it is the L37.

inurok
05-22-06, 10:56 AM
My cars a 2005 GXP with the N*. It has 17000 miles on it. Do I need to do this WOT thing too or after I get more miles?

eldorado1
05-22-06, 11:55 AM
I would. You're pretty much broken in now..

WoodShoe
05-23-06, 05:36 PM
The ultimate test would be revving it to 4 or 5 g's in neutral and tossing the shifter into drive. I do not have the balls to do that, but people tell me it savse itself. Perhaps when my trans is on its way out i will give that a shot.

Or getting it up to 50 and throwing it into park. Im tempted to try that or reverse. very tempted. ::)

I have tried this (the circumstances I will leave out :bigroll:) The car will cut all power immediately and throttle down...It throws a code or 2 in the history if I remember correctly....
P1521 - Transmission Engaged at High Throttle Angle
P1522 - Park/Neutral to Drive/Reverse at High RPM Have fun...

pimpjuice01
05-23-06, 06:57 PM
do all these features work on the 93 N* I've floored it for a while and never saw smoke, but maybe I should try the second gear thing and let it shift for me

Ranger
05-23-06, 10:08 PM
do all these features work on the 93 N*
Yes.

krimson_cardnal
05-25-06, 03:45 PM
hey ranger - you interested in up-dating the tech archive on WOT??

seems like we've had an interesting update and a hell of a lot of viewers.

great thread !

Ranger
05-25-06, 05:49 PM
hey ranger - you interested in up-dating the tech archive on WOT??

seems like we've had an interesting update and a hell of a lot of viewers.

great thread !
I can't edit those. Possibly a super mod could or a pm to Sal.

fpmesiIII
05-26-06, 01:24 AM
another reason for putting the car in [2]nd gear instead of [D]rive, is so the shifts arent as quick. with the car in 2nd gear the shifts are harder/firmer which is supposedly better for the transmission or so i hear.

danbuc
05-28-06, 01:28 AM
It's better for the transmission, but worse for everything esle after it (i.e. half shafts). It's not really an issue if your doing it every once in a while, but on a daily basis, something would definitely break.

WOTMODE
05-28-06, 02:09 AM
I had leased a 2000 S-10 pick up. For some reason, I had the passenger air bag disabled. At 40 mph my buddy stated that I must not care about him seeing that his air bag was turned off. So I put it in park, shut off the engine, removed the key and used it to turn his air bag on, restarted the engine, shifted to drive and continued on our way. The key word is leased. The loud "brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" had us in tears laughing. An added note, the ZR2 will handle three neutral drops from the rev. limiter before rear differential dysfunction occurs.