I need a new/rebuilt vacuum pump for my 1986 Coupe DeVille (GM #22062562 or Cardone #64-1502). Mine's almost dead, and everyone I checked with told me it's no longer available. Somebody out there, PLEASE tell me where I can get a replacement!

And if I absolutely can't find an original replacement, is there another pump that'll work in that same application?

I'm new to the Caddy world. This was my grandma's car (really well-kept!), and I'm surprised that it'd be so hard to find a mechanical part for an American car barely 20 years old, where there are still many thousands of them still on the road! Is this a problem I should get used to?

Anyway, thanks for any leads you can give me!

Try here:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1025660&parttype=5172

Actually, RockAuto just ran out of them. So did JC Whitney. But SOMEBODY out here has one! Thanks anyway...

They ran out, as in out of stock, or as in they don't make them anymore?

What is the pump for? To supplement engine vacuum?

Both RockAuto and JC Whitney told me their stock has run out, and Cardone's not rebuilding them anymore. It looks like I can't even send in my old pump to Cardone for them to rebuild!

You're right about what the pump does; it supplements engine vacuum to assist the power brakes, and I think maybe the cruise control and climate control too.

I checked the ACDelco website, and they don't even list the original part anymore, but when you enter the year-make-model info, they do show a different vacuum pump (an "all-makes", one-size-fits-all pump). But it's like apples and oranges; the original pump uses two bullet connectors to plug in and this one uses three spades.

You think GM's telling us this'll work as long as we butcher our wiring? Like I said before, I'm new to this. I hope other Caddy parts aren't this hard to come by!

Are you referring to the belt driven vacuum pump that supplies extra vacuum for the brakes and EGR function or are you talking about the level ride electric pump on the inner fender?

It's the electric pump in the inner fender (the one that's buzzing loudly like a really old fridge!). My mechanic told me that pump is for vacuum-assist functions like brakes, but not for ride control. He then showed me a compressor by the battery and told me THAT's the ride control compressor (which works fine, since I'm having no problems at all with my suspension). I am, however, having problems with my A/C being perpetually stuck in Econ mode, unable to go into Auto, with the "Service A/C" light coming on anytime I try to put it in Auto. I also have a cruise control that fluctuates wildly (if I set it to 60, it'll drift anywhere between 50 to 75!).

But on another note, does anyone out there think this ACDelco universal vacuum pump (214-1356) is a good replacement for the original? Although it's got three wires vice the original two, it's the only one GM now recommends for this application. Whaddaya think?

Well, if you can't find a good one in a junkyard, going with a universal pump will be the only other way to go!

You hit it right there! But the funny thing is, the pump that's on there right now is one my uncle picked up from a yard a couple months ago. He basically replaced a dead pump with a dying pump. That's why I'm set on finding a new/rebuilt pump, so I don't have to repeat this fiasco.

But tell me fellas, anyone out there know how I'd hook up a two-wired harness to a three-wired pump? ACDelco's not too helpful with that info...

You'd have to check a wiring diagram for your car and see what the wires are connected to and controling.

Oops! Scratch that, the other Delco part number I quoted was for an EGR application, not for vacuum assist. I just got off the phone with Delco, and they couldn't help me either.

So can anybody tell me which pump will work in place of the original? At this point I don't care if it's a Bosch pump off a Mercedes, anything that'll do the job is fine with me!

i have a brand new pump
still in original box
if you are still lookinglet me know
Tina
Csmith3758@aol.com

I am having the same problem with my 86 DeVille, and my pump us making the constant buzz noise. Seems to be working still...but for how long? The pump has made noise for as long as I can remember...from 18,000 miles to 49,000 (current) miles. In fact, initially I didn't know 100% what the pump was for so I pulled the fuse to shut it up and drove without it! Nothing happened but braking is obviously safer with the extra pump. At thet time, I thought it was the level-ride system.

It's the electric pump in the inner fender (the one that's buzzing loudly like a really old fridge!). My mechanic told me that pump is for vacuum-assist functions like brakes, but not for ride control. He then showed me a compressor by the battery and told me THAT's the ride control compressor (which works fine, since I'm having no problems at all with my suspension). I am, however, having problems with my A/C being perpetually stuck in Econ mode, unable to go into Auto, with the "Service A/C" light coming on anytime I try to put it in Auto. I also have a cruise control that fluctuates wildly (if I set it to 60, it'll drift anywhere between 50 to 75!).

But on another note, does anyone out there think this ACDelco universal vacuum pump (214-1356) is a good replacement for the original? Although it's got three wires vice the original two, it's the only one GM now recommends for this application. Whaddaya think?


Is your battery on the driver's side? Because if it's the pump under the battery tray, that serves the cruise control servo. If it's the compressor that you can see on the driver's side of the engine bay - mounted atop the frame rail, that's the self leveling suspension pump.

When your A/C is switching from Auto to Econ, that indicates a low refrigerant condition. It's a self protection feature built into all GM cars of this vintage, because the compressor oil is pressurized by the refrigerant, and running it will damage the compressor.

The cruise fluctuation could be a result of a bad pump, or it might be a simple matter of a stuck switch. Sometimes just running a switch test will reset the system. Here's how:

the cruise control switch test can be done after running through the normal diagnostic routine. That is "Off" and "Warmer" hit simultaneously with the key on. The Fuel Data Center shows all intermittent and hard trouble codes, then reads .7.0 when it finishes the test. To test the cruise switches, you do the diagnostic routine with the engine running. From .7.0, the brake pedal is depressed and released. The FDC then reads E.7.1. From here on, all switch tests must be done in order within 10 seconds intervals, or the computer will interpret the lack of input as a faulty switch. Here's the order of tests:

1) Depress the brake pedal again to test the cruise release switch.
2) FDC switches to E.7.2 Push throttle down about 1/4th of the way and release slowly to test the throttle switch. FDC switches to E.7.4 (E.7.3 is skipped)
3) FDC switches to E.7.4 (E.7.3 is skipped) Apply brake and shift from Park to Reverse to Neutral. This tests the park neutral switch.
4) FDC now reads E.7.5 Set cruise master switch on dash to ON position, then OFF to test that switch.
5) FDC now reads E.7.6 Turn cruise master switch ON, then depress set/coast button on turn signal lever.
6) FDC now reads E.7.7 Cruise master switch ON, depress and release resume/accel switch on turn signal lever.
7) FDC now reads E.7.8 Turn wheel all the way to the right or left, then back to center. This tests the power steering pressure switch.
8) FDC will read E.0.0, then go back to the standby .7.0

After completing these tests, the FDC will re-display any switch number that did not test properly.

Has anyone found a source for this vacuum pump yet? I need one for the same vehicle...1986 DeVille 4.1.

Is this the buzzing noise I hear when I turn the key into the run position (don't start it, just turn it to run)? I've asked three or four mechanics about it and none of them seem to know anything.

Is this the buzzing noise I hear when I turn the key into the run position (don't start it, just turn it to run)? I've asked three or four mechanics about it and none of them seem to know anything.

My pump does the same thing, and buzzes while the engine is running. You can find it by reaching under the driver front fender, between the head light and wheel well. It supports vacuum for the brakes, cruise control, climate control, and releasing the parking brake, maybe more.

Yes, it's the buzzing noise you hear when you turn the key to on with the engine off. Mine makes it too.

Almost forgot... I talked to my electrical mechanic about this today, and he said that the buzzing sound is completely normal, and that it should not be replaced until it starts to fail.

I spent a while looking through manuals and whatnot, and on my 85 Sedan DeVille the main vacuum pump is under the battery on the driver's side. One of my manuals (don't recall which) has a full diagram, and there is hosing that snakes all around the engine bay (the charcoal dehumidifying filter on the passenger side is part of the setup, for example), but the main pump itself (the thing that makes the buzzing noise) is under the battery.

ps--Tshimanga75, my guy says the universal vacuum pump works no problem, and that the third prong on the new pump is not needed

Anybody found a suitable replacement for this? Do the later models have a similar vacuum booster? Are those interchangeable?

Mine has gone from a light constant buzzing to a major rattle and I've had to pull the fuse on it. Since the part is in the fender well, most of the yards did not pull it so there are very few original replacements.

I was looking for a replacement vacuum pump for my 86 Eldorado and found them in the Advance and OReillys online listing. One of them had the actual picture of the type of pump I have. I didn't pursue that farther since I have more pressing issues right now.... Did you check those places?

what part number is this universal pump and which parts supplier? I called Napa last night and they said a reman pump for my 1985 Caddy would be $189! If this pump is much cheaper, I will try and rig it up..

The pump at Advance, if they are still in stock, is $155.

Cardone Vacuum Pump Part Number: 641502

I happen to be heading there now. I will check.

That part number is a Duralast pump, and is listed as not available for in-store or on-line purchase

I was looking on ALLDATADIY for part numbers and found a TSB

MODELS AFFECTED: 1985-86 FWD DE VILLES AND FLEETWOODS 1986 ELDORADOS AND SEVILLES

This Bulletin supersedes Bulletin T-86-59 which should be destroyed.

Some 1985-86 De Villes and Fleetwoods and 1986 Eldorados and Sevilles may experience a moan or buzzing noise accompanied by vibrations in the steering wheel, instrument panel, and floor pan. A second design vacuum pump and mounting bracket is installed after VIN number 281300 for 1986 FWD De Villes/Fleetwoods, 607957 for 1986 Eldorados, and 805741 for 1986 Sevilles, to provide additional vacuum pump isolation. The redesigned mounting system prevents the second design pumps from being interchangeable directly with the first. Since the first design pumps have been superseded by the second generation pump, it is necessary to install a new mounting bracket when replacing first design pumps. The second design part numbers are listed below.

Part Number Description Usage

22062562 Vacuum Pump C,E,K
25527649 Bracket C
1633916 Bracket E, K
22055187 Grommets C, E, K
I called the local GM dealer about the replacement part (part no 22062562) and they said it was unavailable. I emailed newgmparts.com about it and they said it was not available in any of their dealer inventories.

Looking around, it also seems that the vacuum pump was only used on the HT4100. I'm guessing that the 4.5 and 4.9 produce enough vacuum by themselves to not need a helper. Therefore, I think I can forget about it, since I plan to swap in a 4.9 longblock with 4.5 intake later this year. I'd still like to get one though.

any luck with used ones?

I've talked to some junkyards but since the pump is hidden in the fender well and not readily visible part of the engine they are hardly ever pulled. You'd have to find a chassis, which is becoming really difficult for this vintage. Maybe some of the Cadillac specific yards... dunno.

When I was looking around I noticed that most of the current references to "electric vacuum pump" were hot-rod sites that were using them for additional brake boost. There are supposedly a couple of companies that are making them, but they seem to be pretty high dollar.

Another option is to find another electric vacuum pump and adapt it.There are actually a fair number of cars that had these (especially the 4 cylinder stuff), but I think we would need to find out the PSI specs to get something usable. I haven't been able to find this info anywhere. The power part is simple--plug in 12v to accessory lead.

electric vacuum pump at Summit Racing (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CLP%2D12VVCP&N=700+314448+115&autoview=sku) -- $329.95 and no idea if it will work!

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/clp-12vvcp_w.jpg

One more option worth considering is to replace the pump with a reservoir. For example, my Jeep Cherokee has a thing that looks like an oversized toilet float behind the front bumper, which is a vacuum reservoir canister. When the vacuum is initially created, air is sucked out of the canister too, and when the vacuum is consumed the additional volume in the canister helps to keep vacuum in the system for a longer duration.

So, basically replace the pump in the fender with a toilet float. Maybe.

I know what you are talking about. If this thing has a leak, I'm guessing the entire system can't hold a vacuum? Something to look at I guess. My Caddy is sitting down at a garage right now and they are trying to figure out why it won't start on occasion when it is hot.

BTW I spent some time with a vacuum gauge taking readings today. With the engine off, the factory vacuum pump puts out a constant 15 hg of vacuum. When the vacuum pump disabled (fuse pulled) the engine alone also puts out 15 hg of vacuum. When the vacuum pump is running and the engine is idling, the vacuum load is approx 22 hg of vacuum.

When driving, there is 15-25 hg of vacuum with the pump enabled and 5-25 hg when the pump is disabled (the low numbers come up when the engine is under acceleration load, while the high numbers are from deceleration). Based on this I would say that the pump is necessary to maintain a suitable vacuum floor of 15 hg.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+4294821918 has three after-market vacuum pumps that put out 20 or 25 hg. That is a little much for our application but I don't think it would hurt anything. I would be more inclined to use one of the 20 hg units.

ehall --

Interesting tests you made. Did you notice any difference in engine or ancillary device performance with the pump disconnected or connected?

The only thing I noticed was that brakes were weaker with the pump disengaged. Cruise control and A/C still worked, although I think all of the cabin controls are on a separate vacuum harness (under the steering column according to one of the books).

Here is some more info on one of the after-market pumps

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/products/detail/3438/?make=Street%20Rod%20Accessories&model=Electric+Vacuum+Pump+Kits&year=

Builds 24" of vacuum.
Dimensions: 8" L x 5" W x 7" H (approximate).
Draws 10 amps.
Flow rate: 1.53 cfm.
Includes 12 volt vacuum pump, switching relay, vacuum line and control, mounting insulators and hardware.
Turns on at 18" and shuts off at 23" of vacuum.

24 hg is more than these old cars usually have. However it's nice that it has an integrated vacuum switch.

Supposedly some of the early-80s Chevy Celebrity and other J-series cars have a pump with an integrated switch. I don't know if ours are supposed to have a switch or not, but I do know that mine's not working if it's supposed to have one.