View Full Version : 1988 Brougham Pitman arm...
04-28-06, 11:02 AM
Has anyone ever had to replace one on these cars? I had to search and search for one, I figured it would be a very common item but they just aren't out there to be had. I found one (hopefully) on the net for 117 bucks... if they have it and can deliver it.
Does anyone know if one from another model or year would fit and work on the '88 Brougham?
Pitman arms are considered durable, so they are hard to get new.
Not sure on years, but if you can verify the dimensions, you can likely get a shorter one from a C3 Vette, Trans AM/Z28 or performance model car, you might get faster steering response.
What is wrong with yours? They don't wear out easily.
The Ape Man
04-28-06, 10:08 PM
The pitman arm on your car isn't a wear item. Maybe someone has found a bad center link and has it confused. The part that gets loose is built into the center link.
05-02-06, 08:45 AM
Yep, I just took a quick glance and thought Pitman arm, but the real problem was in the centerlink. A centerlink has been purchased and installed, now she drives like a new car. Thanks guys !!
I did mine last year and it was a night and day difference.
Thing on mine, someone aligned it with the drag link bad, so it was real goofy after that. I was able to align myself, and eventually took it to a shop. I was amazed how close I was, and a lot of it was just feel (caster/camber) and then my "alignment" kit with 2 straight edges and 2 tape measures.
If you haven't checked it, toe could be off once a new drag link (centerlink) is installed, as often they align them when they are bad and don't catch it.
I still think I have a joint off, but the shop said it was ok. But in hard right corners I get a suspension shift that is a bit unsettling. I highly suspect that the variable steering issue people see is really this, it can easily be blamed on that, but I don't think it is.
05-02-06, 02:28 PM
Yea, I planned to have the alignment done. When I turn a sharp corner the tops of the tires look like they are leaning outward (camber).
I highly recommend my specs on alignments....
Caster: 4.5 degrees, if alignment guy wants to add +0.25 degrees for road crown, determine your road driving, if mostly interstate, you may not want to, or cut it down some. Car pulls to side of most caster.
Camber: 0 to 0.25 degrees negative. If you drive hard, 0.5 degrees negative. Car will pull if there is both tires lean the same, aka, more positive caster on one side than other.
Toe: Stock is ok, but I prefer closer to 0. Car handles better, well, turns better with a slightly toe out. BUT it will scrub tires more in turns and wear tires faster. Strive for tie rods to be perfectly equal, this IS important, as car will turn differently left than right if they are not. And be more twitchy in high winds.
And of course, make sure car tracks straight!
If they will not agree to your alignments, and they insist on stock, they get them to sign statement that when tires wear they will pay for them, else they will do it your way.
Remember, alignments are an exact science even on these racks. You can only align it so well due to the inherrent design.
I came with 2 packages of shims (1/64" to 1/8"and 1 1/4" shim). I highly recommend this!!! Let him know you have extra shims if needed down to 1/64". He will like you and do a much better alignment if you have them. I got mine at Autozone in the HELP section. You can really dial it in with them on a good rack. Talking to the mech first and being there when he does it is helpful. Most of the time they align it to just in spec, and sloppy specs at that. Get them to be as tight as possible.
You can likely push the specs higher if you have the right shims and some time. Time is key.
GM also specs that you do not have more than 10mm thickness in shim packs from front to back on any side. So watch having that 1.5" thick stack on there, it will fit!! I did it, but strange things start to happen....
And for those of you who are uber picky, get your body weight put in the driver's seat during alignment, it all matters, but GM specs are sloppy enough that they cover it. Same goes for fuel and any average trunk weights you keep in.
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