: Need help on my UUC install



daytripper
04-23-06, 10:05 PM
I finally got decent weather and a slot in my schedule to install the UUC shifter I got from James at Lindsay in our group buy last year...

I ran into trouble on the reinstall though, and I really could use some help. After I've drilled out the rivets, and I go to bolt the shifter to the carrier with the UUC-supplied bolts and "sleeves", do I overbore the hole so that the sleeves fit through it and the integral washer sits flush on the bottom plate. I did that, and the sleeve seems a bit too long (even with the OE foam pice stuck on in beween the plate and the retaining cap). The sleeve seems too long, keeping the plate and retaining cap from meeting flush. Is this correct. Makes the shifter ball socket seem impossibly loose that way.

Also, when I reattach the shift linkage to the square bottom of the shifter, the UUC instructions say to use the original bolt. However, the hole in the UUC is much larger than the nut, and the square bottom of the shifter is much narrower than the stock shifter (maybe an eight inch gap on each side of the square UUC bottom and the linkage. It looks like there are plastic washers shown in the UUC instructions, but mine has no washers with it. Am I supposed to reuse the sleeve or the plastic parts from the factory shifter with the UUC.

Between the narrower width of the UUC shifter bottom and the disparity in the size of the bolt and the hole in the UUC shifter, it almost feels like I have the wrong part for the application. Can anyone shed some light.

I don't have any pictures, but I guess I could snap one if that helps. Right now the shifter is halfway on the car, but if I hold up the UUC to the stock shifter, the bottom square piece is visibly narrower on the UUC than the stock part. Shouldn't they be the same size?

Help.

Brian R.

Lindsay Cadillac
04-23-06, 10:15 PM
It's hard to tell without pictures exactly what you are talking about but it sounds like the sleeves you are referring to go on the bottom of the shifter. If that is what you are talking about they should fit into the bearings on the bottom of the shifter. There aren't any sleeves for the bolts that hold the shifter pivot together...

lasstss
04-23-06, 11:08 PM
Like james said. Bushings go in the base of the shifter into the bearings. Just like the white plastic on the oem. No spacers,rings etc on the shifter attachment bolts.

daytripper
04-24-06, 12:42 AM
It's hard to tell without pictures exactly what you are talking about but it sounds like the sleeves you are referring to go on the bottom of the shifter. If that is what you are talking about they should fit into the bearings on the bottom of the shifter. There aren't any sleeves for the bolts that hold the shifter pivot together...

OK, I think I made a pretty stupid mistake. The bolts fit through the "sleeves", and they looked similar to the rivets I drilled out, and the bolts fit through them, so I used them there instead of in the shifter to linkage connection, thus that connection both looking to be too wide and the bolt for that connection being too small in diameter. I think I made a few stupid assumptions in the directions.

In UUCs picture, it looks like the washers at the shifter end connection are plastic. I guess that's actually the metal sleeve.

Thanks for the help. I think it should clear things up.

Brian R.

ewill3rd
04-25-06, 09:37 AM
Yeah, those steel bushings go in each side of the bore through the base of the shifter for the long bolt that holds the shifter to the linkage.
Just drop the bolts through the holes and put the lock nuts on the bottom.
Hope you didn't drill out too much metal.

Be careful guys I have been having problems with some of the nuts coming with the kits. Some of them have metal shavings in the threads, that makes them lock up when you get them halfway tight. It's a pain to fix it if you don't notice the metal shavings before you start.

daytripper
04-25-06, 12:52 PM
Hope you didn't drill out too much metal.


I was thinking the same thing. I thought about drilling out the retaining cap as well and using a larger bolt, but it feels tight for now.

Haven't gotten to test drive it though, as I have a bit of an exhuast leak (see my other thread with a pathetic cry for help). I knew I should have made the drive down to Lindsay Cadillac to have the job done. Overall it was an easy and not very time consuming job to do yourself, but there is always room to make dumb little mistakes.

Brian R.

ewill3rd
04-26-06, 08:18 AM
I saw your other post on the exhaust, sorry to respond here.
The exhaust flanges often "mate" in different ways. If you look at the factory pipes you took off you'll see a tapered flange.
The pipes you put on might be made for a flat gasket seal.
You may have destroyed your "donuts".
I'd back them off and see what kind of flanges are on your add on pipes.
My bet would be they have flat flanges on them. I saw a system like that a few weeks back, it will require an adapter or the correct sealing gaskets to get rid of your leak.