Hey All,

I changed my rear hub bearings yesturday on my 92 deville, due to play. after chaging the antilock light comes on. At first it came on after drving 20 feet or so. let her sit all nite and 2day it didnt come on for 5 miles untill turning left and all of a sudden it came on. when the light was off it was breaking funny, very tight and tha abs sudder at the last point of comming to a complete stop. but once the light comes on braking is better. im guessing cuz abs is then diabled. would a tweaked wheel speed sensor cause these problems? I have a 3rd in the box (nice guys at tha part store). I've read here that checking for continuity on the sensor will tell u if its bad. problem is the one i have not put on yet has no continuity. i am going to check tha ones on tha car tomorrow. also you think it would be a relay? if all 3 have no continuity what are the chances that the parts store had 3 bad ones? also could it be possible to for a senor to have no continuity and still be good? also could it be possible to adjust the rear drums too tight, would that cause an issue like this? Sorry for all the ?'s in one post.

Thanks!

No, I don't think it is possible to have no continuity and still be good. Check the connections to be sure they are clean and tight. Chances of 3 bad one are slim, but stranger things have happened. Did you torque it to proper specs?

thanks for tha reply. i didnt think so but if all 3 of these have no continuity then i may believe. na didnt torque properly(bad me). but i will go back and do that. would that cause the anitlock light to come on? i'll be going to diff part stores tomorrow and checking continuity along with checking the ones on the car.

Just a guess on the torque but if you overtorqued it perhaps it is overheating and causing a problem with the sensor. Maybe a dumb question but are you sure the continuity tester is working? I once replaced a trunk release on my wifes Bonneville because it tested no power. Come to find out mu 12v test light had gone bad. :mad:

yeah my dvm works. tested a piece of wire and some other conductive metal objects. oohh that sucks!

yeah my dvm works. tested a piece of wire and some other conductive metal objects. oohh that sucks!

im pretty sure it would have to be one or both of the new hubs i put on. no problems were present b4. i wouldnt think it would be like fixing an oil seal just to have it start leaking from another spot but electrical sh!t can be funny like that

here is somthin thats buggin me. i can get 3 ohms resistance on the sensor but cannot get it to show continuity with 2 diff dvm's. one on the car reads the same and one reads 1 ohm. any ideas???

ps these are all new hubs

I am at a loss.

ya me too, my buddy has a scanner so we will find out today

okay scaned it and says the left sensor is outta wack. which is the one measuring 3300 ohms. not 3, had it on kohms. duh! the other one was 1300 ohms. also dont know why i didnt do this in the first place but i tested the old ones and they had 1300 ohms or so and also had continuity. which is weird because the one i have that has 1300 doesnt show continuity. go figure. neway gotta get a new one now.

finally got the part on and she's good to go. both after market ones I have read 1100 ohm range but no beep on the contiuity check. which is present on the stock ones I removed. go figure. neway got her with new struts, springs and hub in the a$$ end. rides like a champ. and a fresh alignment.