I have a 1993 STS that quit blowing cold air all of a sudden. I changed the filters in the compressor, had the system evacuated and recharged. It blew slightly cool air for about an hour if the car was moving. It will also blow warm air out with the ac and heater off for a few seconds every now and then. I was told I needed a new compressor but before I spend that kind of money, I was curious if anyone else has had this problem and knows how to fix it.

welcome
please post your questions in the proper forum :)

What filters in the compressor did you change?

Were you there when it was recharged?

Do you know what pressure is in the system now?

Do you have any codes?

Are the cooling fans by the radiator running when the AC is on?

Is the compressor running when the AC is on?

You have to answer these questions before you can get a reasonable answer to your question.

i myself am having A/C problems...i was unaware of any filters in the compressor...i did however swap out my compressor, and all ajoining parts last summer...its a pain in the butt to do it, but can be done with hand tools...and some minor swearing! :-D...deff not worth the 700-1000 any shop would charge i think i was out tottall 200 for my efforts..

if tis only working when you are driving, then you need a new compressor hate to say it. Same prob in my 95 eldo. You may even ehar your compressor kicking on and off when your car is poarked with A/C on. You definately need anew compressor.

welcome
please post your questions in the proper forum :)
Sorry:thumbsup: First time on, don't really know what forum to use, thank's.

What filters in the compressor did you change?

Were you there when it was recharged?

Do you know what pressure is in the system now?

Do you have any codes?

Are the cooling fans by the radiator running when the AC is on?

Is the compressor running when the AC is on?

You have to answer these questions before you can get a reasonable answer to your question.
Zonie, here's your answers. 1) oriface filters 2)I was there,but I did not watch them do it. 3)I think 4 lbs 4) no codes on my dash for ac 5) fans are on if ac is turned on 6) compressor is spinning and noise free, but, canister where ac charging port is located has a slight tapping noise that seems to be coming from inside of it...? Thanks,Bill

4lbs. 4oz is way too much freon. Check for ACP codes.

Hold off and warmer for about 5 seconds. Dash will light up like Christmas tree.

When display asks "PCM ?", push low fan speed button until "ACP ?" appears.

Push high fan speed button.

Push low fan until ACP Codes appears, then push high fan.

Wright down codes and report back.

Push "defog" to exit diagnostics

4lbs. 4oz is way too much freon. Check for ACP codes.

Hold off and warmer for about 5 seconds. Dash will light up like Christmas tree.

When display asks "PCM ?", push low fan speed button until "ACP ?" appears.

Push high fan speed button.

Push low fan until ACP Codes appears, then push high fan.

Wright down codes and report back.

Push "defog" to exit diagnostics
Thanks. Dash reads a code -ad20

If the compressor is engaged with AC on it should be charged and working. 4 lbs may be the amount they put in but I was interested in pressure they had. IF the center hub of the compressor is turning take a pressure reading and see what it is now.

Why not go back and have them check it?

If the compressor is engaged with AC on it should be charged and working. 4 lbs may be the amount they put in but I was interested in pressure they had. IF the center hub of the compressor is turning take a pressure reading and see what it is now.

Why not go back and have them check it?
Talked to the guy yesterday and said he would re-check it for me. I'll let you guy's know as soon as I get there!!!!

My 95 STS calls for 2.0lbs R134a. Yours might be R12 which would take more, but 4lb. 4oz still sound high.

ad20 is part of the "data" menu
Get back into the diagnostics like before, but when you see APC DATA, push low speed a couple more times until you see ACP CODES, then push high speed.

I looked up the specs. Your vehicle take 2.4lb of R12. If it has been retrofitted to R134a, it takes 2.16lb.

If it does have 4.25lb, this will cause high side pressure to go off the charts and the high pressure cutout will kick in and disable the compressor. It may even set a code. If it is overcharged and has a code, evac and recharge to proper level, clear code and see what happends.

My 95 STS calls for 2.0lbs R134a. Yours might be R12 which would take more, but 4lb. 4oz still sound high.

ad20 is part of the "data" menu
Get back into the diagnostics like before, but when you see APC DATA, push low speed a couple more times until you see ACP CODES, then push high speed.

I looked up the specs. Your vehicle take 2.4lb of R12. If it has been retrofitted to R134a, it takes 2.16lb.

If it does have 4.25lb, this will cause high side pressure to go off the charts and the high pressure cutout will kick in and disable the compressor. It may even set a code. If it is overcharged and has a code, evac and recharge to proper level, clear code and see what happends.
Car has been retrofitted to r134a. Also have a code of a015. Will check pressure.

My 95 STS calls for 2.0lbs R134a. Yours might be R12 which would take more, but 4lb. 4oz still sound high.

ad20 is part of the "data" menu
Get back into the diagnostics like before, but when you see APC DATA, push low speed a couple more times until you see ACP CODES, then push high speed.

I looked up the specs. Your vehicle take 2.4lb of R12. If it has been retrofitted to R134a, it takes 2.16lb.

If it does have 4.25lb, this will cause high side pressure to go off the charts and the high pressure cutout will kick in and disable the compressor. It may even set a code. If it is overcharged and has a code, evac and recharge to proper level, clear code and see what happends.
Also, I noticed under the hood that the plastic that covers the blower motor and everything has completely chipped away, and probably half of the yellow insulation has disappeared to!!! Could this affect the temperature of air my car is putting out inside since the header is only a few inches away from the blower motor?????

That cover is falling apart on mine also. I don't think it is part of the actual duct, it's just a cover.

Ao15 is a code for the sun load sensor(the little bubble on the top of the dash)
Go into diagnostics to the ACP DATA that you were in before.
Push high fan when ACP DATA appears
Push low fan when ad20 appears and push low fan again until AD32 appears.

Note the value displayed
if 3 - 97, fault not present
if 0 - 2, disconnect sensor(will require some dash removal)
with sensor disconnected, if displayed value is 98 - 100,relpace sensor
if displayed value is 0 - 97, disconnect ACP control head and check blu/blk wire for short to ground. If not grounded, replace ACP.
if 98 - 100, post back and I'll tell you more.

Most likely you need a new sensor. It has an intermitten open that fools the ACP into thinking it doesn't need to work as hard.

Also, I noticed under the hood that the plastic that covers the blower motor and everything has completely chipped away, and probably half of the yellow insulation has disappeared to!!! Could this affect the temperature of air my car is putting out inside since the header is only a few inches away from the blower motor?????
And therein lies your problem.

My plastic is all chipped away with insulation falling out. It doesn't seem to affect mine at all.

My plastic is all chipped away with insulation falling out. It doesn't seem to affect mine at all.
Well, sun lode sensor checks out with a value of 90. Guess I'm going to be getting greasy putting in a compressor after all is said and done. It's enough to make ya drink.:alchi: