: Post headgasket job, one loose end left.

04-19-06, 12:40 PM
I am having trouble locating where this one wire need to plug into. It's about 12 inches long off the main harness along the firewall under the brake booster. Please See attached. I can't find it in my service manual. Near the main harness it has a black plastic clip for attaching to something.

I thought it was the coolant temp sensor at first but quickly discovered it's too big.

There are no new error codes to help me pinpoint what it's for.
I'm getting 2 codes now:
1.) Service Air Ride (might fix later)
2.) Battery No Charge (discovered bad alternator today)

TIA Jaxx

04-19-06, 12:47 PM
Is it long enough to run underneath the intake manifold? Maybe it's for a knock sensor or something.

Loose screw
04-19-06, 01:27 PM
It looks like it may be the master cylinder low brake fluid sensor connector

04-19-06, 01:28 PM
It will not reach under without resting on the manifold.
I went through all my photos and found a piece of it in this photo. It's on top of the power steering knuckle connector but then gets cut off.

This car had a remanufactured tranny put in and I also have this unknown hose. Anyone want to guess what it's for ?

I had a lot of fun with this project so far. I'd like to try it again one day to see how much faster I can do it.

04-19-06, 02:57 PM
That hose is a vent for the transmission.

04-19-06, 05:06 PM
Thx JimD Do you know if it is supposed to be as long as it is ?
The picture is a little decieving because of the top view, but it's at least 10" long.

04-19-06, 05:22 PM
On my '98, the vent hose is long enough to reach the throttle cables. It needs to be sufficiently higher than the transmission so it will vent vapors and not liquids.

04-19-06, 07:26 PM
There should be a plastic clip on the metal throttle likage bracket that holds the vent hose upright.

04-19-06, 07:52 PM
Thx guys I will look for that bracket to connect it. I found it laying on top of the tranny during the tear down.

Now back to the last wire, I know I have the master cylinder connected it a much bigger plug, I will double check for brake fluid plug. I have a feeling it for something down low based on how much grease I found on it, but I'm only guessing.

04-19-06, 09:37 PM
If a '94 Concours had electrically adjustable struts, that connector in post #1 could be intended for the left strut. I don't know what the suspension options where for your model.

But if there is (or was) a message like SERVICE SUSP SYSTEM that would be a clue.

That double underlined advertising is really a PITA and has the potential to change the intent or emphasis of a posting.

Loose screw
04-20-06, 01:18 AM
The connector for the low brake fluid sensor is in the base of the fluid resivor. It is visible and attaches from the drivers side. If that is it the wires are small gage.

The hoes in your picture is the right length (do not modify it) and will stand up right and it is held in place by a plastic clip on the side of throttle body bracket. Your's may be broken off. A dealer should have a picture of it, it's post just pushes into a hole.

I own a 94 concours The bracket is a pain with hard to get at screws and was redesigned in following years.

04-20-06, 06:01 PM
Thanks Loose screw I almost feel bad saying that, like I'm calling you names. LOL

I will check tonight when I install the new alternator. Hopefully that will help solve the slightly rough idle since everything was running off the battery.

04-20-06, 06:13 PM
That hose is a vent for the transmission.

:thumbsup: I agree

04-21-06, 09:11 AM
Mystery still not solved here is a few more pic I took last night. It doesn't appear to be any brake related wires. I took some close-ups of the clip at the base of the wire I mentioned earlier, I thought it might help narrow the possibilities.

Secondly, I did find the clip for the tranny vent hose and attached it. :highfive:

Loose screw
04-21-06, 10:00 AM
I seem to remember that funny clip (mid way on the wire) I am thinking now that that wire goes to the steering and the clip slides on a fitting. I went out and looked on my car and I can see a wire headed down and rearwards towards the steering assembly. It goes down and back and out of my view. You are going to have to get under the car and look on the back side of the engine and on the steering assembly. I believe there is a pressure sensor on one of the tubes but I believe that is more on the passenger side and the wire I am seeing is on the drivers side. Check that out and if you still can't find it - tell me how many wires there are and what are the colors codes on them and I will jack my car up and track it down for you. That clip is a big clue, it will only go on a few thing within it range.

Oh, the clip that hold the trans breather hose also holds two black plastic vacum hoses on the vertical wall of the bracket of the throttle body

Loose screw
04-21-06, 11:03 AM
I just found the picture in the service manual that shows it clearly.
It does go to the steering but not the pressure sensor. It goes to the "steering assist solenoid valve" (drivers side) which is located on the back of the round vertical part of the steering assembly (tower) - the solenoid looks like a small motor and the connector is on it's top. So it is in between steering and the fire wall - you will have to get at it from under side or you maybe able to see and reach it from the wheel well. The clip slides down onto one of the tube fittings that goes into the vertical tower.

STS 310
04-21-06, 06:13 PM
Funny thing is that I have a wire harness that looks like the first pic near the master cyl that isnt conected to anything now.

Car runs fine.....

04-21-06, 07:23 PM
:2thumbs: Awesome! thx Loose Screw :dance::woohoo: You da man!

Now I don't have to do this anymore :banghead: Thx again Jaxx

1993 eldorado green1
04-24-06, 10:29 AM
if thats not it maybe its the coolant temp sensor wires? mine looks similiar to that on my 95 eldo. you could probably reference the wire colors and see where it is suppost to go...

04-24-06, 01:10 PM
thats looks to be the connector that plugs into the rack, right near the steering coupler on the rack, pull the driver side wheel and pull the rubber fender liner out of the way and look in there, i remember mine had blue on the plug too i think, thats or it could be a/c related as well they use blue plugs too,

STS 310
04-30-06, 07:51 AM
PLease elaborate, my A/C has been acting "strange" for a while....

Loose screw
04-30-06, 10:10 AM
PLease elaborate, my A/C has been acting "strange" for a while....

I had a couple of different GM cars' that the A/C was coming on but then would go off for n appearent reason and the pros with all their equipment could not figure it out and I couldn't either for a long time. Both were on cars with high milage. The A/C would kick out like there was an intermitant connection problem but an attached computer monitoring the system said the A/C was still on, but if you put the trans in nutral and raced the engine usually the A/C would start again. I finally was able to figure out the problem. When the cooling fans would turn on or other large electrical load devices together the voltage would drop a little. The A/C clutch pads had worn down creating extra clearance and the old wiring and different A/C sensor contacts and relays (and we had replaced most of them) had increased the resistance to the system over the years and eventually with a modest drop in volt like when the cooling fans would engage the clutch could no longer be held in good contact with the compressor and it would pop back to the off position even though the electromagnetic clutch was being energized (but not enough to over come the extra clearance of the worn clutch pad) and with not enough voltage and amps to get to make the magnet powerful enough.

The problem was totally fixed when I bent the clutch springs inwards to eliminate the extra clearance. And on both cars the clutch would engage and stay that way. Use a A/C clutch removal tool (borrow one from you local parts store) or screw something onto the shaft, attach a C clamp or visegrip to it or something and figure out a way to pry and bend the springs or spings attachment plate towards the compressor until the clutch touches (without putting a inward pressure or force on the shaft and compresor it self) you don't want to damage any seals or internal parts. It is best to just remove the clutch and them bend it off of the car on a bench with a hammer.
This fixed the problem on both cars for years.