: HELP - AutoVation Race Pedal Install



Staxxin
04-16-06, 12:00 AM
Iím preparing to install my new pedals tomorrow and Iím not sure what to do about the Emergency Brake pedal. The instructions donít seem to touch on that. Additionally, it doesnít appear that you can remove the plastic cover like the brake or the clutch.

Another concern is the Gas pedalÖ Did you guys drill through the plastic or pre-drill to start the hole or just force the self-tapping screws through?

THANKS in advance for your input!!!!

ChicagoCTS32
04-16-06, 12:13 AM
I haven't done this mod, but I read somewhere that the e-brake pedal does NOT come off and you have to drill through it. Someone said to make sure you drill in the right spot so you don't come out in a thicker place. Imagine a one sided waffle, make sure you drill through the valleys and not the mountains.

atdeneve
04-16-06, 12:33 AM
Personally, I removed the whole rubber/plastic piece from the emergency brake pedal and drilled through the metal arm. You will have to chop away at the rubber/plastic to get it off. Just be sure to chop away at the front face only, that is, if you plan to do what I did.
I slipped the remaining rear face of the rubber/plastic piece back in behind the metal arm, shaving away any part of the piece that might stick out from behind the metal. I predrilled two horizontal holes (I like the look of the bolts horizontal as opposed to vertical, although, it is definitely much more difficult due to the narrow arm) through both the metal arm and the rubber/plastic piece. I then inserted a pair of nuts and bolts to secure the aluminum pedal.
Definitely a pain in the arse, but you gotta do what you gotta do, right? Actually, I found the whole installation was much harder than I thought it would initially be - the drilling part, that is; and getting all the holes to match up to the aluminum pedals. Also, drilling the upper holes is quite difficult given the limited amount of space we have to work with, unless you have some kind of incredibly small drill that fits into tight spaces. Just depress the pedals as far as you can and drill (turn on engine and pump brake pedal when it gets too hard to depress). But in the end, all that matters is that it was definitely worth it. And, for me, it was. I like the end result. Good luck.
As for the gas pedal, I did predrill.

nikon
04-16-06, 01:56 AM
dont put the E-Brake pedal on, looks like crap. And no predrill on the gas pedal, they went right it really smooth.

CIWS
04-16-06, 08:21 AM
The instructions didn't specifically cover the E-brake. I drilled through mine and the gas pedal (plastic covers). The E-Brake can be a friggen biotch to get through. Make sure you have good sharp cobalt drill bits if you decide to do it. I also went to the hardware store and picked up a few slightly longer stainless steel self taping screws that I used on the E-Brake. I had to go anyway to get a couple of new/sharp drill bits. My old one wasn't up to the task of the E-brake. :D

rand49er
04-16-06, 09:06 AM
First of all, count the screws. Whoever put screws in the kit I got must have flunked preschool ... I had to go to the hardware and pick up some more, stainless steel of course. Plus, as suggested above, I got some longer ones for the e-brake (5/8" I think vs 1/2").

Second, make sure to have an extra cobalt drill bit of the 1/8" size in case of breakage or wearing one out (as I did). One 3/16" (I believe) bit is adequate.

Third, it's up to you if you want to go to all that work on the e-brake, but I only took off the clutch and brake pedal rubber pedals; I left the accelerator pedal and e-brake pedal alone and just put the AutoVation pedals right on top. I did drill a pilot hole for the screws in those latter two pedals, however.

Fourth, getting two holes in and lined up is relatively easy. Getting three is trickier. Getting four in and having the pedals line up and be where you want them takes patience. Also, I found that depressing the pedals was necessary to get the drill motor as close to right angles with the pedal surface as possible and was not in all cases always completely possible.

Line each pedal up where you want it making sure the accelerator pedal does not scape the carpeting as it's depressed before you commit to a position, mark where the holes will go with a pencil/pen, and take your time. I did do the e-brake, though I can understand why one might choose not to. Mine aren't perfect, but I'm fairly pleased with the results. Sure is hard getting a decent photo of them, though ... I keep getting too much light on them.

http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/5999/pict23119nh.th.jpg (http://img157.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict23119nh.jpg)

thebigjimsho
04-16-06, 10:13 AM
This is a sign!! Don't do it!!!

CVP33
04-16-06, 10:29 AM
This is a sign!! Don't do it!!!

For the record, BigJim loves racing pedals on the emergency brake and foot rest almost as much as RSA's.

thebigjimsho
04-16-06, 10:50 AM
For the record, BigJim loves racing pedals on the emergency brake and foot rest almost as much as RSA's.Just for the record, I am not a frosty, old curmudgeon. I can change. I have retracted my hatred to RSAs to non-RFT versions only! The non-RFT versions still have ungodly soft sidewalls.

Staxxin
04-16-06, 12:49 PM
Thanks for all the advice guys!!!! I installed the gas, brake, and clutch pedals and the foot rest this morning. I need to run out and pick up some longer self-tapping screws for the e-brake and two more for the gas pedal since the kit only came with 7.

Thanks again!!!

thebigjimsho
04-16-06, 02:23 PM
You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....





Pssst. Don't do the e-brake.

rand49er
04-16-06, 03:03 PM
... I need to run out and pick up some longer self-tapping screws for the e-brake ...Ah, yes. Then go out and order a set of RSAs. :stirpot:

thebigjimsho
04-16-06, 03:57 PM
Ah, yes. Then go out and order a set of RSAs. :stirpot:What are you trying to do to me, man? I'm already on blood pressure meds...

Staxxin
04-16-06, 09:18 PM
You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....

You know you don't want to do the e-brake....





Pssst. Don't do the e-brake.

I ended up doing it... What a pain in the arse it was! I looks great when depressed but when released I don't love it. Due to the thickness, you can still see bottom e-brake rubber.

When will I learn to listen!:alchi:

rand49er
04-16-06, 09:32 PM
... but when released I don't love it. Due to the thickness, you can still see bottom e-brake rubber ...Don't look! :peeking:

For crying out loud, you can't even see it!:alchi:

CIWS
04-16-06, 09:33 PM
This thread has become worthless without pics :D

Staxxin
04-16-06, 09:41 PM
Here's one.. Don't mind the date - I didn't have the correct date setting :tisk:

CIWS
04-16-06, 09:48 PM
Ahh you got the Grid series :D


Oh and check your camera, I think the date is off. ;)

Staxxin
04-16-06, 09:50 PM
I did and I like them... I know the date was off but I was too lazy to go out and take another photo. Notice I indicated that in my previous post :-)

CIWS
04-16-06, 09:53 PM
Yeah I saw, it was a joke because you mentioned it :)

That E-Brake can be a biotch to get drilled. Made me want to get a 20 watt cutting Laser. :banghead:

Staxxin
04-16-06, 09:58 PM
I hear you. I tried screwing in several different spots with no success so I ended up with two in the center. I think it turned out okay. The bolt and screw placement wasn't ideal on any of the pedals...

nikon
04-17-06, 12:12 AM
Why did you only put two screws in on the clutch and brake? and why'd you go off-center on the upper e-brake one???? looks a little goofy if you actually look at it.

Staxxin
04-17-06, 11:23 AM
Yeah I know... First off, the screw holes didn't line up properly, hence the two on the brake and clutch. For the e-brake, I had a difficult time getting through the rubber so that's where it ended up. With that said, I think it looks okay.

nikon
04-17-06, 11:38 AM
Yeah I know... First off, the screw holes didn't line up properly, hence the two on the brake and clutch. For the e-brake, I had a difficult time getting through the rubber so that's where it ended up. With that said, I think it looks okay.

ya it looks, ok I mean it's not like your gonna stare at them, thats even it other people see them, just a quick glance....I just noticed it because of the flash I think.

TampaV
04-18-06, 09:21 AM
I slipped the remaining rear face of the rubber/plastic piece back in behind the metal arm, shaving away any part of the piece that might stick out from behind the metal.

Can you please explain this a little better? What exactly did you do when you slipped the remaining rear face of the rubber piece back behind the metal arm. I'm not picturing what you did.

Did you use the two long machine screws and nuts provided with the pedals for the e-brake attachment?

Thanks

atdeneve
04-19-06, 07:50 AM
Yea, sorry. I didn't want to get too detailed. Figured if someone was actually interested and wanted to know further, they'd ask. And since ya did...

First, for explanatory purposes, imagine the arm to be something like a cupped hand (with the palm facing down or towards the front of the car, depending on the pedal's position). The rubber/plastic piece covers that cupped part of the arm. So, basically, what you want to do is cut off the front of the rubber/plastic as well as the sides, leaving you with only the rubber/plastic residing within the cupped hand.

I suppose you can use whatever means you have to cut the piece off. I basically used the drill to mangle the material off of the face, releasing the back side, then a razor to shave off the rest (i.e., the sides).

Now that you have the rubber/plastic ready, simply rest the aluminum pedal on the metal in the position you want to install it. Mark where you want to drill and proceed to do so (the hard part).

As I said before, I personally preferred the horizontal orientation of the nuts/bolts. If you plan to do likewise, it will make the "hard part" - the drilling - even harder, given that the two horizontal holes in the aluminum pedal will barely fit over the metal arm. In other words, any way you position the pedal, the two horizontal holes will be touching the very edge/boundary of the metal arm (remember that the metal arm is cupped and at the boundaries are the side walls of the cupped shape). If you choose this route, just ensure that you make your drill points as close to the boundaries as possible and, after you've made the holes, you will have to bore out the holes further (just wiggle/rock your drill bit back and forth to widen the holes at the boundaries and shave away at the side walls). You want the holes in the metal arm as far apart as possible to ensure that the face of the bolts, when installed, will lie flush with the aluminum pedal.

Once you have drilled holes through the metal arm, place the rubber/plastic piece you previously prepared back behind the arm (into the cupped part, obviously). With the rubber/plastic piece in place, drill some holes through the material, using the holes drilled in the metal as guides (this is because the material is rather fragile/friable and it will fall apart rather than give way to whatever you try to pry through it, whether that be a screw or a bolt).

Finally, just insert the longest two bolts and secure them with the nuts. Voila. Finito.

Now, some will argue that it's all a waste of time. Why would you want to bring more attention to the stupidity that is the foot-operated e-brake? Of course all of us are none too happy with the engineer's lack of thought in placing a damn foot e-brake in a manual car, however, it is there and there is nothing that I can do about it (at least, to my knowledge). So, in installing the aluminum pedals I personally preferred to complete the package, and unfortunately, in our case, the package includes a foot e-brake. The way I saw it was this: I could have nice aluminum pedals and then the ugly black rubber/plastic God forsaken foot e-brake floating there awkwardly or I could at least dress it up in the same aluminum material, tieing it in and making it more uniform, as opposed to just an ugly eyesore. Ugly eyesore. Pretty eyesore. Ugly eyesore. Pretty eyesore. Well, I went with the pretty eyesore. At least, that's how I saw it. But, in the end, it is what it is - a foot e-brake. Yeeeuuck. So, do as you will.

Hope that helps.

thebigjimsho
04-19-06, 09:56 AM
I have tan interior and the black e-brake pedal does a good job at camouflage. I see no benefit in polishing turds. But, hey, SRT owners would be proud...

TampaV
04-19-06, 10:56 AM
Yea, sorry. I didn't want to get too detailed. Figured if someone was actually interested and wanted to know further, they'd ask. And since ya did...

Once you have drilled holes through the metal arm, place the rubber/plastic piece you previously prepared back behind the arm (into the cupped part, obviously). With the rubber/plastic piece in place, drill some holes through the material, using the holes drilled in the metal as guides (this is because the material is rather fragile/friable and it will fall apart rather than give way to whatever you try to pry through it, whether that be a screw or a bolt).

Finally, just insert the longest two bolts and secure them with the nuts. Voila. Finito.

Hope that helps.

Atdeneve,

Thanks for taking the time to explain all of this. Using the horizontal pedal holes seems to make things very difficult. I think I'll just use the vertical pedal holes. I still have a question for you. I just went out and looked at the e-brake pedal. I see the cupped [ shaped arm just as you describe it. However, there is none of the rubber/plastic part of the pedal in the cupped section before mods. Why do you need to put a section of the rubber/plastic into the cupped section behind the arm? Is it just to take up space so the two longer machine screws have a spacer for the nut to be tightened up to? If I use the vertical holes in the pedal and two short screws like the ones used for the brake and clutch, do I need to put a piece of the rubber/plastic pedal material into the cupped section? Obviously, I would have to remove all of the rubber/plastic pedal from the metal arm and then mount the aluminum pedal directly to the arm.

Does this make sense?

atdeneve
04-20-06, 06:30 AM
Yea, makes perfect sense. That's exactly what the rubber/plastic piece is there for - to act as a spacer on which the nuts can be tightened up against - and if you are inserting the bolts vertically, there really is no need for it, and I would do it exactly as you stated - use a smaller set of nuts and bolt them directly to the metal arm without the use of the rubber/plastic as a spacer. Jou got eet.

Also, the cupped section is enveloped within the rubber/plastic material. Once you remove the material you will see that the tunneling behind the arm will blindly end in a "cupped hand" shape (if that at all makes sense). Anyhow, you'll see. That is, if I'm not mistaken. Doesn't really matter, since it won't pose a problem for you, given that you're installing the pedals with the bolts oriented vertically. Just hack away at the material like there is no tomorrow and enjoy the racy aluminum pedal adorning our newly glorified foot e-brake. Yummy.