: 1990 Brougham Running Rich
What Would Cause My 1990 Brougham To Run Rich? It Has A 5.7l Under The Hood. I Have Changed The Coil And Performed A Full Tune-up. I Tested The Volts Form The Battery And The Alternator. The Battery Is At 13.9v. I Read That It Should Be Around 14.2. Would This Make The Car (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/#) Run Rich? Also I Am Experiencing The Shudder Every Once In Awile And The Stalling In Reverse That Dopestar Was Experiencing. When I Did The Tune-up I Did Not Gap The Plugs. I Am Assuming This Would Not Cause That. Thanks In Advance For The Info.
Are you getting any check engine light codes?
No There Are No Codes. I Was Thinking About Changing The Tcc Solenoid. I Know It Idles Weird When Its In Gear. But It Seems To Run Rich All The Time.
Canister Purge turns on when you are in gear, just off idle (on gas even the slightest bit), but off at idle.
Check that it is connected up properly and not damaged, or the solenoid for it isn't damaged.
04-17-06, 02:27 PM
Well, pull a few of the plugs and let's have a look at them. There's a few different things that would be causing the engine to run rich, but most would throw trouble codes. How is your timing? Check that, it'll make a world of difference if it's off even a few degrees. The alternator is just getting old, don't worry about it. When it drops into the 12's, then it's time to worry. Not gapping the plugs is an easy mistake that rarely has repurcussions, it wouldn't be anything like what you're experiencing. But pull a few plugs, and check them. There's a lot of guides with pictures on the internet, this one is decent.
Thanks, I Will Try That Tonite And Post The Results. Im Also Gonna Put A New Converter On. I Gutted The Old One Because It Was Clogged Up. Tnaks For The Advice!!
I Pulled The Plugs, They Were Fine. Also Changed The Fuel Filter And Cat. It Ran Okay For A While, Then It Started Back. Could The Tank Be Dirty. When I Changed The Fuel Filter, Alot Of Dirty Gas Came Out. I Mean Gritty. I Might Pull The Fuel Filter Off Again To See If Its Dirty.
Why do you think it is running rich? The plugs tell the story, if rich, they will be black, and even wet if really bad.
What did they look like?
04-24-06, 08:13 AM
Check all the vacuum hoses on the engine, if they're even at all worn, replace them. You might have a leak somewhere.
I Think Its Running Rich Because Of The Way The Exhaust Smells. Its A Real Strong Smell, Not Like Gas, But A Real Bad Exhaust Smell. I Know When I Changed The Cat It Helped A Little Bit. I Checked The Hoses And I Did Not Find Anything. I Do Hear A Hissing Sound When The Car Is Started. I Spent An Hour Looking To See If Any Hoses Were Damaged. I Found Nothing. Could The Hesitation Be A Converter Problem. It Idles Fine When Its In Park.
04-24-06, 09:19 AM
Hesitation is usually a sign of retarded timing, but not always. How is the timing?
Im Not Sure How The Timing Is. Can I Check That From Home? Or Do I Need A Timing Light?
04-24-06, 11:39 AM
Nah, you'll need a timing light. Good tool to have, but if you don't want to pick one up, most parts stores will let you rent one. If you want a little extra pep, I have the timing on my 90 advanced 10 degrees and I run at least 91 octane. The light and mid throttle response is much snapier.
Okay I Will Try That. Is It A Hard Process To Do? I Was Gonna Get The Motor And Trans Rebuilt In The Fall. I Just Dont Wanna Make Things Worse Until Then.
04-24-06, 03:19 PM
Checking the timing is very easy to do, you start with hooking the timing light up. 3 cables, one you hook to the battery's +, the other to the battery's - then the one with the odd-looking clamp goes around the #1 cylinder's spark plug wire. Look at the large wiring bundle that runs infront of the blower motor to behind the distributor. There should be a tan and black wire with a connect that sticks out of the wire shroud. Disconnect this connection. Now start the car, and aim the timing light down onto the balancer. You'll see the marks lining up with whereever your timing is currently. If it's retarded before 0, that's a problem. A distributor wrench (at any auto parts store) allows you to loosen the distributor and turn it by hand while the engine is running, thus retarding or advancing the timing. Feel free to ask questions, that's what we're here for. The guys at the parts store can help you out a lot too! Good luck!
Thanks For The Info. I Will Try That Tonite. Also I Got A Code 54 Yesterday. Thats Fuel Pump Relay Short. Wouldnt My Fuel Pump Shut Down If The Relay Is Shorted? I Disconnected The Battery And Let It Sit. Took The Car For A Drive And The Code Never Came Back. I Did Recently Change The Fuel Filter And It Was Clogged. Could My Tank Be Dirty And Just Needs To Be Cleaned. Im Thinking This Could Be The True Problem.
04-26-06, 04:27 PM
There's a definate change, I wouldn't rule it out.
It Was A Cracked Vacuum Hose. Wtf I Decided To Spend The Entire Day Looking At My Engine And I Heard This Hissing Noise. Traced It To Some Hose On The Firewall. Should I Go Ahead And Replace All The Vacuum Hoses Or Wait Until I Get My Engine Rebuilt?
I would for now, just look for all the bad ones. If you find them making your fingers black (and it is hard to get out) they are deteriorating, and only have a short life left.
You never know if the engine rebuild gets pushed out. bad vacuum lines are a headache as you move something and they crack. PCV is a good one for this on an Olds with the extreme angle the valve is to the hose. Get a right angle piece for it would help.
I Will Probably Do That This Weekend. Pepboys Has Some Silicone Vacuum Lines. Thanks For The Info