: DeVille Window Regulator/Motor Repair - HOWTO pdf



lowscola
04-06-06, 10:18 AM
There have been many complaints regarding window regulator failure for certain 2000+ Cadillac DeVilles. I have had all of mine fail one by one. The first was fixed at the dealer for ~$500.00. The second one I did myself for $180.00.

I've put together a how to in pdf format and can be downloaded at:

http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com/lowscola/auto/user_downloads/dhs_window_repair.pdf

JimD
04-07-06, 08:44 AM
Excellent. Thank you.

01devilledts
04-09-06, 02:59 AM
great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...

turbojimmy
04-09-06, 06:14 AM
great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape,

I was going to mention that, too. That's the way the manual recommends. I did it last weekend, but I used duct tape.

I didn't realize that the problem with these things was the regulator itself and not the motor. You can get just the motors from auto parts stores, but GM only sells the entire regulator assembly. I got a new take-off part from a coach builder for less than half of the dealer price.

Jim

01devilledts
04-09-06, 11:30 PM
Ya, i keep duct tape far away from my car, just because of the residu (sp?) it leaves, masking tape wil not leave anythign behind (unless you leave it in the hot arizona sun for a few hrs). The only problem i ever had with all 4 of mine was the little plastic clip breaking and the window then isnt connected to the cable. so i just took a pice of sheet metal, and riveted it around the cable stop, and it wil never break again :thumbsup:

2000DevilleCM
04-17-06, 09:55 AM
great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...
I came across this Forum after receiving a $560 quote from the dealer to replace the regulator. They wanted to show me that the strap had actually broken, which sounds like what i am reading in this blog. Please advise how I can make this repair myself, as you have indicated is possible.

2000DevilleCM
04-17-06, 09:56 AM
I was quoted $560 to conduct the exact repair you are describing can you please advise how this repair can be made, without going through dealer.
Much appreciated

turbojimmy
04-17-06, 10:06 AM
I was quoted $560 to conduct the exact repair you are describing can you please advise how this repair can be made, without going through dealer.
Much appreciated

You'll need to go through the dealer for the part. The aftermarket places just sell motors as far as I know. Try www.gmpartsdirect.com. Their shipping is expensive but you still come out way ahead of the dealer's retail rates. I think you can get the regulator/motor assembly for around $200 shipped. Then just follow the directions in the PDF file posted above. Just don't take the glass out unless you really want to. It can be taped into place. Once you get the door panel off you'll see how it works and the consequences of pulling the regulator out without securing the glass (read: breakage).

Jim

lowscola
04-17-06, 01:29 PM
great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...

Thanks. I'll try the tape method when I get to my two broken rear windows. That will make this a whole lot easier because I was very nervous trying to be sure I didn't break the glass.

I'm also interested in your fix as well. I may try to actually fix one of the broken assemblies before ordering another replacement/re-man'd part. I was thinking about using a resin at first but your metal & rivets fix sounds good too.

I just can't get over how bad this design is.

lowscola
04-17-06, 01:37 PM
I was quoted $560 to conduct the exact repair you are describing can you please advise how this repair can be made, without going through dealer.
Much appreciated

If you want a relatively stress free part swap, just order another assembly from:

http://stores.ebay.com/WINDOW-MOTOR-WORLD-INC

it's ~$180.00

OffThaHorseCEO
04-17-06, 02:42 PM
If you want a relatively stress free part swap, just order another assembly from:

http://stores.ebay.com/WINDOW-MOTOR-WORLD-INC

it's ~$180.00

i second that, i used them and am totally satisfied, shipped reasonably quickly, fit perfectly and customer service is good too.

JEREMY88898
04-23-06, 12:10 AM
great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...


HELLO,

I AM IN SERIOUS NEED OF SOME SERIOUS CADDILLAC OWNERS. MY REAR PASSANGER SIDE WINDOW STOP WORKING YESTERDAY. IT IS LOOSE IN THE TRACK, I CAN PULL IT UP AND DOWN WITH MY HAND. IF I PUT THE WINDOW UP AND PUSH DOWN ON THE CONTROL, IT GOES DOWN. IT IS ALMOST LIKE IT IS OFF TRACK OR SOMETHING. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME. I TOOK DOOR PANAL OFF AND WAS GOING TO STICK A PIECE OF WOOD UNDER WINDOW SO IT STAYS UP. I CANT BRING MYSELF TO DO IT. IT IS A 2001 DEVILLE. I DONT HAVE THE CASH TO FIX RIGHT NOW. ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED. THANKS

01devilledts
04-23-06, 04:42 PM
ok, wow, i forgot about this thread,

Unfortunatly i didnt take any pictures when i fixed mine. but ill try and to my best on explaing how i did it. ad ill pre warn now, my typing and punctuation gets a little weird when im going on a roll so bear with me... :thumbsup:

First.

this only works if you can pull your window up and down with your hand and you can still hear the motor running.

Second.

Im sure all of you can take the door pannel off of the car. (if not im sure there is a plethora of info on this forum about that) but what you have to do is take off the inner door pannel, and the black plastic liner.

Third.

you must be able to to get to the door glass and push it up. all the way to where you can get to the 2 10mm bolts that are accessible thru the holes in the sheet medal under the black plastic liner. losten them up but DO not take them out. then slide the glass up and then useing masking tape, loop about 3 pieces from the inside up, ou and over to the outside. THIS WILL HOLD YOUR WINDOW UP.

Fourth.

Take out the regulator assembly. (3 10mm bolts) save all hardware cause you will be putting this back in. its a little tricky on manuvering it out of the door but it is done, just remember how you got it out, since it goes back in the exact opposite way that it came out. (if you get what im saying)

Now for the fun part.

1.on my assembly what was broken was the white clip that is the only thing on the whole assembly that was plastic. there is a "knot" on the cable withc is probably at the top or the botom of the assembly now. that plastic clip holds the lifter arm for the glass to the cable (stupid huh) what you need to do is attach that Knot to the lifter arm.

2. you will need to plug in the regulator assembly and the cable from the door back into your car, and then adjust the regulator to where the "knot" is about centered on the assembly.

3. the lifter arm needs to be taken off the up and down track, to do this just slide the arm one way as your pull off one side at a time on the track.

4. Under the lifter arm where it was between the track and the arm you will see the clip i am talking about. what i used here was a small strip of 16g sheet metal about 1/2 in wide and 1 1/2 long. i opened my vice, big enoug for a screwdriver and then a little extra, layed the strip over the vice and smacked the screw driver down in the gap making a perfect shaped "hump" in the strip of metal. ____n____ <-- (best i can show it)

5. then take the piece you just made and flatten out one of the sides of the "hump" so it has a small pocket. then take that to your regulator assembly and attach it over the knot to where it was in the factory position. I used 4 very shallow rivets and riveted that strip over the knot on mine, workes like a charm.

6. its a little tricky to do the step above but it can be done and dont get frustrated, the piece is already broken, you cant break it any more. after you get the piece back in place, you must attach the arm to the slide, and then your basically done.

7. put the regulator assembly back into the car. bolt it inplace. and then slowly remove your tape, WHILE HOLDING THE GLASS ! slowly slide the glass back down into the door untill it sits in the clips you lostened up earlier. (you might need to move the arm up and down with the switch to bea ble to see where the clips are.

8. Once the glass is in the arm, and you know it is, (dont tighten up the clamps yet) roll up the window all the way using the switch, (if you have tint this is where you align it for light gaps. slide the window glass to where its centered and you have no light gaps. then tighten up the 2 10mm bolts HOT TOO TIGHT!!! its pinching glass it just needs to be hand tight to where it stops...

9. Put the black plastic liner on and put the door pannel back in, and wha la, there you have it...

if you have any questions, pm me, or use my instant messanger account, its on all the time on my sidekick.

ok now time for a drink....:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

mobetr
05-05-06, 08:33 PM
great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...
How do you fix them yourself? I had 3 break so far. Thanks MB

01devilledts
05-07-06, 02:29 PM
How do you fix them yourself? I had 3 break so far. Thanks MB

Two Post's up I Explained how to fix them. post nimber 13. that should tell you how to. :thumbsup:

DANNY BROWN
06-17-06, 09:36 AM
Ya, i keep duct tape far away from my car, just because of the residu (sp?) it leaves, masking tape wil not leave anythign behind (unless you leave it in the hot arizona sun for a few hrs). The only problem i ever had with all 4 of mine was the little plastic clip breaking and the window then isnt connected to the cable. so i just took a pice of sheet metal, and riveted it around the cable stop, and it wil never break again :thumbsup:
can you please tell me how i can fix my regulator with th3e sheet metal in detail.i would appreciate it so much.

trichards
08-14-06, 10:00 PM
Boy are you good!!!!!!!!!!
You have provided more than I could have hoped for and all in color.
Thanks so much. I needed to take a look before I tackle the job but i was not able to determine how to get the door panel off from the other folks trying to help.
You are the GURU of this repair for sure.
Thanks a lot.
Tom

lowscola
08-27-06, 01:14 AM
Boy are you good!!!!!!!!!!
You have provided more than I could have hoped for and all in color.
Thanks so much. I needed to take a look before I tackle the job but i was not able to determine how to get the door panel off from the other folks trying to help.
You are the GURU of this repair for sure.
Thanks a lot.
Tom

Thanks. I'm glad you found it usefull.

Johnny Cadillac
02-26-07, 08:06 PM
2001 Deville. The window can be held up with small suction cups. After my drivers side regulator broke, I used these on the inside down again the top of the door panel. They stayed there for 3 months until I repaired the regulator.

John

newetc
03-27-07, 10:00 AM
awesome pdf.. thanks for posting :thumbsup:

SCDTS
06-30-07, 08:30 AM
I just did the passenger side on 2004 DTS. I would like to thank you for your effort putting this together - it was a great help with photos to look at.
Any new developments on parts, methods etc?
Found two pins bent up in the window attachment plate where the " up" shoulder should be (broken off) and used them to hold the swaged socket on the wire rope and added the hump back thingy contacting the upper side of the pins. Hope this will hold up. I noticed a lot of stress cracks al over the plastic molding on he attachment plate. I did have FSM for 2004 since it is out of warrenty now.
For anyone with the 6 pin connector on the window motor the two top outer large (wide ) pins operate the motor (up/down).

Thanks again. Great job.

Mike Wells
09-21-07, 10:15 PM
Great instructions and a real money saver. Took passenger front and driver rear off with no problem.


Thanks

jcdsog
09-22-07, 04:04 PM
ok, so i've been reading on here that the window regulators on the devilles are always going bad. i deville i just bought had the same problem. i also read that someone on here fixed theirs so i figured i'd give it a try myself.

please note that i didnt plan on documenting this repair so i didnt have a nice camera. i used my camera phone so the pictures aren't as detailed as i would have liked.

i will assume that you have read prior posts as to how to take the door panel off and the window regulator out of the door so i will skip that part. it's relatively straight forward. there aren't but 3 screws that hold the regulator in and i taped the glass to the top of the door to hold it up while i did the repair.

first, you need to take the part that screws to the glass off of the track. you will need to do that by using a flat head to release the white plastic locking tab then rotate it off.

second, i got out my tape measure and took some measurements of the peice that i would need to fabricate. i used a piece of alluminum that i had laying around and some tin snips. here is what i ended up with.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8505/dsc00232mm5.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00232mm5.jpg)

what happens is there is a metal "tab" or "ball" on the steel cable that locks into this piece. when the motor turns, it slides this up and down the track. the factory piece is plastic and breaks.

before we can put our metal pieces in, we need to cut the plastic to allow for a fit. take a hack saw and cut 2 straight lines across. where to cut is shown here by the red lines.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/4521/dsc00233hv7.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00233hv7.jpg)

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/1018/dsc00234ko9.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00234ko9.jpg)

once we did that we can fit the aluminum piece in and make any adjustments as needed. the blue arrow here is where it was broke origionaly and is what we're actually fixing.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5695/dsc00235ss4.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00235ss4.jpg)

make sure that you check everything for clearances. we dont want anything rubbing. make sure that the metal isn't sticking up above the white plastic that it fits into. u may need to trim a little metal off the top of the aluminum for an exact fit.

once i had a good fit and tested the "tab" or "ball" into the hole, i drilled a hole and put a sheet metal skrew to hold things down. a pop rivet will also work here (i couldnt find my pop rivet gun).

i finished up by applying jb weld to the surrounding areas being careful not get it where it shouldnt be. it looks rather crude but i assure you it will not break now!

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/1110/dsc00237lw9.th.jpg (http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00237lw9.jpg)

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/5595/dsc00238gk6.th.jpg (http://img514.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00238gk6.jpg)

http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/5966/dsc00239ey6.th.jpg (http://img102.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00239ey6.jpg)

that's basically it. next, just allign the piece back on the track and put the steel cable with the "ball" or "tab" into the hole that we just repaired and snap it back together. be sure to lube and grease everything up while you have it out. put the regulator back in the door, reattatch the glass and plug the motor back up and you should be ready to test your work.

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/476/dsc00240oq7.th.jpg (http://img514.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00240oq7.jpg)

im sure there are other ways to fix this problem but i just thought id share how i fixed mine. it's working great and only took me about 3 or 4 hrs and costed $5 for the jb weld which i still have plenty left over.

urbanski
09-22-07, 04:33 PM
thanks for the tip! :)

92_Seville_89
12-24-07, 09:41 PM
nice work!

HITMONEY
12-31-07, 08:09 PM
I might give this a try next time one of mine blows like a shotgun now that my certified warranty is expired.

Thanks!

cvsting
03-17-08, 07:45 AM
Now explain a little more on what you did with the jb weld, why you needed that ?

Logandiagnostic
04-14-08, 01:26 AM
Love those OEM designs..Deville 'pop in drop' windows.

I thought only PC's windows crashed.

Yes, the window uses a cable. The cable is attached to a plastic part. Plastic fails. Window drops.

They can be repaired. I have fixed 2 of 4 on mine.


Logan Diagnostic LLC
www.ledfix.com
www.airbagcrash.com
http://www.logandieselusa.com/deutzdiesels.html

jcdsog
04-14-08, 04:51 PM
the jb weld was just so secure it all together. its still working great btw.

edcarol
05-16-08, 08:20 AM
Wonder why Cadillac (GM) hasn't retooled the replacement part with a metal piece.

jcdsog
05-17-08, 05:49 AM
good question. i think gm has to keep the mechanics busy. and i know labor rate here is 95 per hr. i mean think about it... we got a rover on mars.

garretthes
05-17-08, 11:58 AM
Thanks for all the help guys. I was able to repair mine using epoxy. If it fails again I will do the sheet metal trick. It sounds way more stable.

pohen2222
07-28-08, 10:28 AM
Great Instructions! Repaired in less than an hour and saved myself about $360(Repair shop quoted $561 to replace. The part was $414 alone!) by ordering through Window World!

2KDHS
08-13-08, 05:47 PM
Thank You for putting such a good step by step on replacing the regulator assy. The dealer wanted $550.00. I got one from Window Motor World for $150.00 and it took 1˝hrs to do the job myself with your pdf.
THANKS AGAIN!!!

skippydts
08-22-08, 12:16 PM
Let me add my thank you.
Your PDF gave me the courage to do-it-myself. I paid about $110.00 for two regulators online. One from Partstrain, Autopartswarehouse. I must have save $600.00 based on what I have read here.
I had two regulators go out within two weeks.
Thanks

arkgideon
09-07-08, 10:07 PM
I managed to find a regulator online for a total of 55.00 including the shipping and was able to install i less than one hour. The .pdf file located in the forum was very helpful, thank you. The dealer wanted 670.00 to replace the regulator, which I feel is a total rip-off.:golden:

mrgoodbar67
09-23-08, 06:52 PM
I FIXED MINE WITH EPOXY AND WORKS PERFECT.
SAVED MYSELF $490 COMPARED TO DEALER REPAIR OR BUYING A NEW REGULATOR.
THANKS FELLAS.
HERE A FELLOW MEMBER HAVING PROBLEMS, SEE IF WE CAN HELP.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/150410-window-fixed-but-i-have-issue.html

ELI ICE
12-21-08, 04:59 PM
This was a good recommendation and it got me thinking. I ended up using a couple of cotter pins. Take a look.....

mrgoodbar67
04-06-09, 12:00 PM
cotter pins look good.....ill try that next time. I already replaced 2 on my dts.

dts2002
05-12-09, 01:47 AM
It looks quite easy. how is it made? how many inches andwhere they are bent?

dts2002
05-12-09, 01:48 AM
how is it made?

K@ddiD@ddi
05-18-09, 11:32 AM
I have had all of my windows break doing the same thing, I have fixed my windows by making the little metal straps to go around the steel ball but I do suggest making sure that the only thing that touches this piece is the metal ball, as mine wore through the cable and snapped it. Does anyone have an easy fix for the cable??

mrgoodbar67
05-20-09, 10:58 PM
Well ima try that cotter pin thing now.
My rear driver side door window failed and i bought a new reg on ebay about a year ago and has worked good.
Right after that my driver door window failed. Replaced that one too and yesterday it failed again........cotter pins here i come.

mrgoodbar67
05-20-09, 11:00 PM
COTTER PINS.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/118154-2000-deville-window-regulator-fix.html#post1874350

IMA TRY THAT NOW

K@ddiD@ddi
05-21-09, 05:49 PM
Ok the cable is fixable, I took mine apart, not successfully though I broke the plastic housing where the motor mounts to, I also didnt fix it because my cable was stuck inside the housing and it was a tangled mess, but if anyone is starting to get frayed cables go ahead and take the time to very carefully pull the housing apart and take note of how the cables work because both ends attach to the wheel that is on the inside of the housing, you just have to pay attention to which cable is on which side and how many times it goes around the wheel. The cable and the cable ties are available at home depot for about $10.00, it looks easy enough, 1 cable, 1 wheel. If you can change a tire, you can fix the regulator!!

UNKUT
06-05-09, 02:14 AM
So my regulator popped and the little ball that snapped out of the plastic housing seems to have went quite a ways away from its desired location. It actually made it around one of the plastic pulleys and stopped next to the green stopper where the cable goes into the black covering. How in the hell do I get it to mave back to where its supposed to be so I can then fix the thing?

UNKUT
06-10-09, 06:57 PM
So my regulator popped and the little ball that snapped out of the plastic housing seems to have went quite a ways away from its desired location. It actually made it around one of the plastic pulleys and stopped next to the green stopper where the cable goes into the black covering. How in the hell do I get it to mave back to where its supposed to be so I can then fix the thing?

Nevermind...... no responses and no info on the forums regarding this so I just bought a new regulator and tossed it in. Works better then before now!

wessongroup
07-21-09, 01:20 PM
Say can anyone help on a source for the white nylon push-type retainers? Have not been able to find one person that supplies the item, and I'm being told they are no longer made...

MajikM777
07-23-09, 11:17 PM
Thank you for the .pdf saved me a bundle. I got my regulator off ebay for $29.00 plus $7.00 for shipping.The local auto recycler quoted me $170.00 for the same part, hope it lasts.

stevbo200
07-26-09, 01:59 PM
i took my door panal off and the regulator out but my cable seems very loose and i cant get it tostay on the white wheel, is there a way to tighten the cable?

brendanw
07-28-09, 11:17 AM
Huge kudos to the guy who put this HOW TO together ... extraordinarily good documentation coming from an online forum and exactly what I needed for getting over the hump in my desire to replace the window regulators. So here's my $0.02 ...

3 of the 4 windows on my '01 DeVille DHS have gone out. The first one I had fixed professionally to the tune of about $350 I think. I just didnt have time to do it, so I paid the ridiculous price and now FULLY regret it. The other 2 have 22.5" long 2X4's (note that dimension) holding the windows up right now. The 4th will give out at a really inconvenient moment, I'm sure.

I removed the door panels ... let me restate this ... wrestled the door panels off, breaking some of the molded plastic mounts for the retaining clips. Some are still reusable and I think I can get them back on reliably. This is absolutely the hardest part of the job folks. Take your time and try to pry the panel at the location of the clips as you can see them as the panel is pulled away a little bit. Pulling out and up is critical.

Getting the regulators (with motors) out was a breeze. Move the windows up and down by hand to get at the two nuts that clamp the regulator to the window (right rear required snipping away some sheet metal to get at the nut ... no idea how they got it in). One plug and three nuts later the regulators were out.

It's obvious what the problem is. The white plastic pieces that the cable runs through have dried, fatigued and crumbled. The cable then runs freely through the channel without anymore connection to the window. I contemplated crimping a 'stop sleeve' onto the cables on either side of the window attachment brackets, but decided that it might be easier and worth the minimal $$$$ to just go ahead and replace the regulators.

I found a web site called 1A Auto who sells reverse engineered regulator assemblies for about $50 each (without the motor) depending on what model vehicle and which window. I ordered the right rear with the motor for about $80 since I had some trouble getting the motor out and may have damaged it. The guy on the phone said they their 'overseas' partners have redesigned the assembly using a better plastic and, sometimes, a different method of retention. We shall see. Regardless, the guy on the phone was personable, helpful and said the parts would ship today and be on my doorstep tomorrow. Cool!

Once I get the regulators installed I'll post the results to this thread. I'm new to the forum and cant post links yet, but I will when I can.

Brendan

brendanw
07-29-09, 09:04 AM
Huge kudos to the guy who put this HOW TO together ... extraordinarily good documentation coming from an online forum and exactly what I needed for getting over the hump in my desire to replace the window regulators. So here's my $0.02 ...

3 of the 4 windows on my '01 DeVille DHS have gone out. The first one I had fixed professionally to the tune of about $350 I think. I just didnt have time to do it, so I paid the ridiculous price and now FULLY regret it. The other 2 have 22.5" long 2X4's (note that dimension) holding the windows up right now. The 4th will give out at a really inconvenient moment, I'm sure.

I removed the door panels ... let me restate this ... wrestled the door panels off, breaking some of the molded plastic mounts for the retaining clips. Some are still reusable and I think I can get them back on reliably. This is absolutely the hardest part of the job folks. Take your time and try to pry the panel at the location of the clips as you can see them as the panel is pulled away a little bit. Pulling out and up is critical.

Getting the regulators (with motors) out was a breeze. Move the windows up and down by hand to get at the two nuts that clamp the regulator to the window (right rear required snipping away some sheet metal to get at the nut ... no idea how they got it in). One plug and three nuts later the regulators were out.

It's obvious what the problem is. The white plastic pieces that the cable runs through have dried, fatigued and crumbled. The cable then runs freely through the channel without anymore connection to the window. I contemplated crimping a 'stop sleeve' onto the cables on either side of the window attachment brackets, but decided that it might be easier and worth the minimal $$$$ to just go ahead and replace the regulators.

I found a web site called 1A Auto who sells reverse engineered regulator assemblies for about $50 each (without the motor) depending on what model vehicle and which window. I ordered the right rear with the motor for about $80 since I had some trouble getting the motor out and may have damaged it. The guy on the phone said they their 'overseas' partners have redesigned the assembly using a better plastic and, sometimes, a different method of retention. We shall see. Regardless, the guy on the phone was personable, helpful and said the parts would ship today and be on my doorstep tomorrow. Cool!

Once I get the regulators installed I'll post the results to this thread. I'm new to the forum and cant post links yet, but I will when I can.

brendanw
07-31-09, 09:23 AM
I found a web site called 1A Auto who sells reverse engineered regulator assemblies for about $50 each (without the motor) depending on what model vehicle and which window.

As promised the parts came next day from 1A Auto. $232.95 for 3 window regulator assemblies (1 with motor, 2 without) and 1 AC blower motor assembly.

1 1A-HCX-00060 98-02 Buick Olds Cadillac FWD Heater Blower Motor & Fan (Front) $74.95 $74.95
1 1A-WRK-00076 00-05 Cadillac Deville Power Window Regulator w/o Motor Front Pair $83.05 $83.05
1 1A-WRG-00432 00-05 Cadillac Deville Power Window Regulator w/Motor RR $74.95 $74.95
0 1A-WRG-00524 00-05 Cadillac Deville Power Window Regulator w/o Motor LF $0.00 $0.00
0 1A-WRG-00525 00-05 Cadillac Deville Power Window Regulator w/o Motor RF $0.00 $0.00

brendanw
08-10-09, 03:55 PM
I've now installed all 3 regulators from 1A Auto. I'm still having trouble with the right rear, but i think it's the power module, not the regulator. The regulators from 1A Auto were a little different than the original, but hopefully better engineered. They fit perfectly and the 2 that are now working are working very well. Cant say enough about 1A Auto. I'll definitely order fro them again.

FixedThisBrokeThat
08-21-09, 11:40 AM
First, thanks so much for the instruction packet. Along with a few other tips posted on this forum, the job was pretty easy. I replaced the right rear regulator with little apparent problem beyond breaking a few clips and a nice cut from the sharp edge of the regulator. However, now that everything is back in place and the window finally works, I seem to have broken the door locks on all the doors. If the key is in the ignition, regardless of whether engaged or not, all doors will unlock except the RR but none of the doors will lock from any switch including the driver master. All locks are fully functional with the key fob and when the keys are not in the ignition. Any ideas on what I broke??

brendanw
08-24-09, 09:37 AM
... I'm still having trouble with the right rear, but i think it's the power module, not the regulator ... Cant say enough about 1A Auto. I'll definitely order from them again.

Just an update on my window regulator issues. It appears that one of the problems with the right-rear regulator is that the polarity on the motor is reversed. Because of the awkward orientation of the 1/2 installed door panel when testing it, I didnt notice it at first. Yesterday I was troubleshooting it and noticed it. I accidentally hit the automatic full-down position on the switch, which drove the carriage past the stop limit and ripped the brand new plastic pieces apart ... arggggghhhhhhH!!!!!!!

Just a few minutes ago I called 1A Auto and mentioned the problem to them. The guy quickly stated that he had seen this problem before, apologized profusely and promised a new one to be shipped out ASAP!

So, the moral of the story on 1A Auto is that the parts are inexpensive and easy to get, but not without their flaws. The other side of that coin is that the folks at 1A are completely standup about and are there to put the customer first. Kudos to them

I'm still having an issue where via the rear doors, you can put the windows down but not up. I can make them go both ways via the main switch on the driver door though.

Slowy
10-17-09, 03:23 PM
this just happened to my drivers window today... haven't even had the car a month.
i read the 'tutorial' and figured i'd give it a go......
i couldn't get the door panel off to save my life. i'd like to think i'm technically savy, (replaced, turbos, manifolds, exhaust, transmissions, cv axles, brakes, wiring, etc) but something in the middle of the door above the clip was just NOT moving.
i was pulling up...and out,,then both.
i was actually LIFTING the car by just the door panel.

Slowy
10-17-09, 08:36 PM
I just bought my 03 deville (1 owner, 39k miles) just about a month ago. i was told that the passenger side regulator just got done in September and that when one goes, more soon follow... well, how right he was!!

window went down, did not come back up.

i looked at the PDF 'tutorial' and thought, heck, I can knock that out. I generally think I'm pretty savy when it comes to working on cars. I've replaced, transmissions, clutches, turbo's, manifolds, brakes, cv axles, wiring, etc etc. yeah......I couldn't even get the door panel off. I got all of the clips loose, plus the screw under the handle, but could not get it off the car. It seemed as if there was something in the middle holding the panel on. I read about the 'up and out' pull and I was trying that... even to the point of rocking the entire car by the door panel. Can anyone give me any tips or tricks to getting this thing off?

I decided to put her away and let myself calm down before I ended up breaking something

thanks in advance

Slowy
10-20-09, 09:59 PM
**Mod. you can delete post #43 (from me on 10-17-09, 03:23 PM) i posted, then forgot that admin had to approve... sorry about that

Slowy
10-20-09, 10:05 PM
well, i am happy to say that i just finished the job.
after the first try, i decided to calm down and leave the car in the in-laws garage overnight. the next evening i gave it another go. the middle where the door was stuck were two clips (that go into the white squares if you look at the PDF from the 1st post), all you have to do is slide those up and they come out (duh).....
the rest of the job was CAKE. i absolutely LOVE the fact that Cadillac uses that black plastic instead of the flimsy glued on plastic like other cars where you get that black silicone glue all over the place ( i guess caddy figured it would be coming off often, hahaha)
untightened the window, pulled it out (i didnt have the part to replace it, so taping it up for a day was not an option)
undid the 3 10mm screws that held in the regulator, rotated clockwise and pulled out.
My dad got me a new regulator (with lifetime warranty!!) for $65
put the old motor in the new one, reinstalled, BAM... works like a charm

i've always been scared of doing window stuff, but with this PDF, your comments, and Caddy's ease of install (except for door panel) it was cake.

Thanks again CF!!

rmccague
10-22-09, 02:09 PM
Has anyone else besides ELI ICE tried using the cotter pins? Has it worked okay?

BTW, the write-up was fantastic. Thanks IOWSCOLA!!!!

Slowy
10-22-09, 09:19 PM
the cotter pin thing would work ,but you'd have to take the slider off the track first (from what i remember) to get to the underside where the 'stopper' thing is on the cable. that looked a little hairy because its on there pretty tight and the clips look like they MAY break

Marco
11-14-09, 05:54 AM
Well, my diy repair on the pass door broke last week.
I used what I thought to be a very sturdy u-bracket nade of thick aluminum.
It did last for a year! lol
I haven't actually removed the regulator yet so the break could be from something else, like the cable snapping.
I think I'll go with steel this time round, if that was the weakest link that broke.
My concern when installing the metal bracket was that the cable might chafe(sp) on the edge of the aluminum.
The repair was free, just some time with my needle nose vise grips and my trusty dremel tool.

I'll update once I know what the cause for the failure was, maybe some pics too.

UPDATE: for grins, I checked rockauto for the price on the RF regulator.
They sell the AC Delco units with motor for the front doors for $75! (2000 model)
But for some reason the Rears are over $150 ea.

I might have to pull the trigger on that one.

mrgoodbar67
11-20-09, 06:11 PM
Dont pull trigger ebay sells them for as cheap as 30 bux highest ive seen has been about 80.
I bought three so far...1 door left to break, and theyve lasted.

Southern DubVille
12-22-09, 12:04 PM
It's been a while since I posted but anyhow my drivers and passengers windows have been broken for longer than I care to mention. Just found this tutorial and bought both regulators. My problem has been taking the damn door panel off, but from the other posts insight I think I will be fine. We shall see....

32million
12-24-09, 07:58 AM
I gave the eli ice cotter pin fix a try yesterday on my front passenger door and so far it works well. It did not cost me a thing. I had the cotter pins in my toolbox for years and the repair took less than an hour. The only concern that I had was about the "pocket" size difference that the metal "ball" fits into. You can see the difference in his post. What I encountered so far was when I used the one-touch window up feature, the window went all the way up, paused for a second and went back down. I may have the window in slightly crooked or something? Until I can check it out I will just not use the one-touch feature. A big thanks to Eli for his suggestion.

Marco
12-29-09, 12:22 AM
It's been a while since I posted but anyhow my drivers and passengers windows have been broken for longer than I care to mention. Just found this tutorial and bought both regulators. My problem has been taking the damn door panel off, but from the other posts insight I think I will be fine. We shall see....

The door panel on the Deville isn't too bad at all.
We had a Town Car before the Caddy and it was 10X worse to remove and install. Crap plastic connectors that never went in straight, etc...

On the Caddy, it all comes off and goes back on as described.

patriciaann
02-17-10, 07:22 PM
I recently have this exact problem and would like to know how to fix with sheet metal. It seems foolish to spend a lot of money for a complete repair when the design is fall to begin with. Hope to hear from you soon!

tamehrlingrose
03-05-10, 10:51 AM
Will this work for a 2003 Deville? I was driving home yesterday and the window just fell down. We found some discounted parts online but it sounds like removing the door panel could be tricky. The dealer wants $600 to repair and I just don't have it. Todays high is going to be 40 and we have heavy rain forecasted for the rest of the weekend.

Tammy

Ranger
03-07-10, 10:39 AM
This section is for "TECH TIPS", not question. You won't get an answer here. Repost in the Deville forum.

Slowy
03-17-10, 11:35 AM
for the christmas tree clips... i used a flat metal stick and stuck it up through the bottom and slid them up. was MUCH easier for me to get the door panel off that way...

might also want to check the wires that come from the car to the door panel while your at it.
i did my rear window and somehow the old decreppid wire broke.. save yourself a minute or two

flbmcman
03-24-10, 01:12 PM
There have been many complaints regarding window regulator failure for certain 2000+ Cadillac DeVilles. I have had all of mine fail one by one. The first was fixed at the dealer for ~$500.00. The second one I did myself for $180.00.

I've put together a how to in pdf format and can be downloaded at:

http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com/lowscola/auto/user_downloads/dhs_window_repair.pdf

Just a word of THANKS for your trouble to create the above mentioned file. I had the driver's window pop over a year ago, and just this month, the passenger one. The driver's one was replaced by my mechanic, but I did this one today in less than 2 hours. I am no where near the mechanic that most of you guys are, but these instructions were DEAD ON.

The only REAL problems were getting the panel off(could not figure out how to remove the door release handle, finally just pulled out from bottom and everything came off), and removing the motor from the old regulator(took motor off of the right angle gear box instead of taking gear box from regulator, OOPS)

Instead of the tape method, I used one of the suction cups that I had used to keep the window up until I was able to tear apart the door and replace the offending regulator.

Thanks again, and I WILL keep the instructions for the back doors.

Lawrence:bows:

infrancom
05-14-10, 08:54 PM
i would love some help with this and i am a new member so i cant message you, but if you could email me at infrancom@aol.com i would greatly appreciate it. i have a 2000 dts with 3 windows that are not working

infrancom
05-14-10, 09:09 PM
gonna try the cotter pins myself, any feedback on how they have been working?

tributeartist
05-26-10, 10:47 AM
LOVE The Cotter Pin Solution! Simplicity of Design!

Keep up the Good Work!

jtiversen
06-10-10, 11:58 AM
Newbie here. Thanks for the great PDF - I just did this last night and used the cotter pin trick someone else suggested. Seems to be working fine.

Just one question - the first instruction in the PDF is "Make sure door is unlocked and then remove latch". Wasn't sure what that meant, but when I got to the point of removing the door panel, it turns out the lock (up/down thing) was still connected to a plastic thing underneath. I pulled a bit too hard and wound up breaking that plastic thing the lock up/down thing attaches to. Any suggestions on how I could have avoided that / where I could buy a new one?

Thanks!

Slowy
06-12-10, 07:04 PM
I pulled a bit too hard and wound up breaking that plastic thing the lock up/down thing attaches to. Any suggestions on how I could have avoided that?


the first instruction in the PDF is "Make sure door is unlocked and then remove latch"
i would say the easiest way to avoid breaking that piece would be to follow step #1 of the PDF that says to remove the latch.... lol :D:D:D




/ where I could buy a new one?

junkyard?

jtiversen
06-14-10, 10:41 AM
i would say the easiest way to avoid breaking that piece would be to follow step #1 of the PDF that says to remove the latch.... lol

Thank you, o insightful one. However, as I mentioned, (a) I'm a newbie - I haven't done this before, and therefore (b) I wasn't sure what it meant by instructing me to remove the latch. I.e., what is the latch and how do you remove it?

The junkyard recommendation is also insightful, however what would be far more so would be a part number, for example. That seems like a fairly inexpensive part that wouldn't break the bank to buy from the dealer if there's no other option...

Slowy
06-14-10, 06:50 PM
in the future, if you have a question about what something is on a write up, you should post a question. with the technology nowadays, most of us get email notifications right on our phones
you are talking about the nice plastic thing that shows you that the door is locked or unlocked right?

Ranger
06-15-10, 04:48 PM
A dealer parts dept. will have exploded drawings in their computer so you can point it out to the parts guy.

deeteeess2
06-20-10, 05:36 PM
The cotter pins are brilliant! Thank you ELI ICE. It works so well and is so simple that I am going to retrofit the three "working" regulators so I never have to worry about this part failing again. Good job!

tann3100
07-01-10, 04:12 PM
Well I replaced the RR regulator about a year ago and worked fine. Yesterday the same one failed again. Went to ace and bought two cotter pins and put them in and bingo it worked. The only thing I noticed is there is a little play in the window but other than that works good.

Thanks

vatalon
07-17-10, 04:12 PM
Question for the Thread? First step says to "remove latch". Can anyone tell me exactly how you do that? I notice that there's a little square tab on the latch. Do I just pry this open? Then what?

Nikko
07-18-10, 03:43 AM
Hey, I just had two windows on my passenger side break within a week of each other. I would like to learn how to use the sheet metal to fix the window. I can't afford the real thing right now and have both windows up with a couple of pieces of tape each. Please send info on what and how to fix with the sheet metal. Thanks.

Slowy
07-22-10, 11:42 AM
Question for the Thread? First step says to "remove latch". Can anyone tell me exactly how you do that? I notice that there's a little square tab on the latch. Do I just pry this open? Then what?

small flat head screwdriver, pop that little part up and the door lock latch will come up.
that little square just presses against the metal pole of the door lock mechanism to hold it in there

Klusie33
07-25-10, 05:15 PM
I just repaired my '04 DHS right rear window regulator with one cotter pin. It worked just great. There is no slack, the piece swaged on the cable is tight between the
"down" stop and the cotter pin I just put in for the "lift" stop. By the way, I noticed as I was inspecting to determine what broke, I see that the "down" stop was plastic formed over metal, the part that broke was just plastic. Makes me wonder, in thinking back, if the plastic part that broke is in the regulator 180 degrees off. Hint-
to align holes in the regulator with the place on the cable to insert the cotter pin, I removed the motor and opened a pliers to span the regulator drive gear and was able to rotate the drive gear clockwise or counter clockwise to allow me to insert the cotter pin in just the right place. This is the simplest and easiest repair, and no reason that it won't last, it is a "life time" repair....

Jamjohnson2
09-26-10, 06:05 PM
Thanks lowscola for the guide! Just fixed mine today. Didn't spend $180 though and only spent an hour doing it. The motor usually isn't the thing that fails. I purchased the regulator from ebay for $38 and just attached the motor onto it. I can't believe that the dealership charges $400+!!! That's ridiculous! Again...THANKS

mserickson
11-04-10, 11:40 AM
I'm hoping to try to cotter pin trick tonight...My back passenger window fell into the door frame on the way to work today - on the Interstate , and of course on the coldest day of the week so far :(
I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

mserickson
11-04-10, 02:29 PM
Hi. My brother is going to help me attempt the cotter pin fix tonight on my rear passenger window. He was wondering if anyone knew what size cotter pins to use?

Thank you!!!

Bennie
11-26-10, 10:54 AM
Hey guys and gals. I'm new to the forum, and am the proud new owner of my first Cadillac. It's a 99 Deville, and even after only a weeks time I can say it is an incredible automobile.

I just recently experience a problem with the window, and after searching quite a bit on the subject this was the best place I saw fit to inquire of my issue.

The window was working fine for the last week, until last night when I rolled the window up, and when it came to the top It made a clicking sound like it was still trying to go up, but was not able to. I then rolled the window down (Dumb) to see if it was a one time thing, and when I tried to roll it up it wouldn't do anything. It does nothing. It makes no sound whatsoever. All of the other windows are fine and work as they are supposed to.

It seems as though the windows seem to be problematic, and I was hoping someone has had a similar issue, and is willing to offer their experience.

gjtausc
12-13-10, 05:39 PM
I followed the link to the "HOW TO" pdf file and found it quite useful in assisting me with the repair of the right front and left rear windows on my 2000 Cadillac DHS.

For the RF window, I used a short piece of "plumbers tape", which is metal, comes in a roll and is easily pliable for the task at hand. I secured the node on the mechanism cable as close to the original location as possible and used 3 pop rivets in close proximity to one another and the window regulator works as it should.

For the LR window, I wasn't as fortunate as the motor had kept operating long enough to mess up the cable mechanism portion and I was forced to order a new regulator. From this link, < http: //www .car-stuff. com/store/?N=9836+4294963365+1586+11921+9331 > , I ordered a regulator without the motor - cost with shipping charges was less than $40.00. The item was ordered on a Wednesday and I had it delivered via FEDEX Ground by the following Monday. I was very pleased with the fast service/delivery. :D:yup:

((I've added 3 spaces in the above link so that it would pass through))

wewejonson
02-04-11, 01:20 AM
gonna try the cotter pins myself, any feedback on how they have been working?

i am going to try that tomorrow this forum is great it is good to see people working together to fix there cars. so many people just take it somewhere now. whatever happen to taking a couple of hours out on Saturday to work on the car with your kids watching and learning stuff as you're bonding. its better that video games

baller95
04-17-11, 03:32 PM
This is what I'm going to do when the weather is nice in a few days ! And like everyone is asking, is there a specific size?

cepeda0812
05-15-11, 12:12 AM
There have been many complaints regarding window regulator failure for certain 2000+ Cadillac DeVilles. I have had all of mine fail one by one. The first was fixed at the dealer for ~$500.00. The second one I did myself for $180.00.

I've put together a how to in pdf format and can be downloaded at:

http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com/lowscola/auto/user_downloads/dhs_window_repair.pdf

This link does not work and I desperately need to replace the window lift motor in my deville which just broke on me about an hour ago. I appreciate any help thank you

Dave NYC
05-21-11, 04:09 PM
Hi,

I have an 01 Deville and the rear passenger door's window stopped moving up. But, I could hear the motor. Being I live in New York City, I need to park on the street. Plus, it has been raining, So, I took the inside door penal off and I raised the window and wedged cardboard tightly to keep it upright, this way the car is somewhat safer.

I have been seeing the average price for the regulator for $80+, I went to get prices at Auto Zone, etc; and the prices were all about the same.

Then, I look on ebay and found one for about $42 with free UPS shipping, the seller has sold about 72 of these and has 99.9% positive feedback.

Could anyone tell me if this is the right part and if it makes sense to purchase it. I'm working against the clock. Because, this problem needs to be addressed quickly. It should cost about $40 to have it installed, if I decide to have it done right.

But, before I make a purchase, I need some advice on this part that is on the link below, I will be very thankful for your help and advice.:thumbsup:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160521685888&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

NorthStar67
05-25-11, 12:24 AM
I had this problem and didn't replace anything but the metal wire that moved the regulator easy and cheap fix.

2002 Devile DTS
05-25-11, 07:28 AM
Looks like the right part to me..... Good price with the motor.

2002 Devile DTS
05-25-11, 07:39 AM
I am replacing to regulators next week with ones I bought a while ago, I was wondering, is there any reason I couldn't put the cotter pins in the new regulators as I install them, in case the plastic factory piece in the new regulator fails in the future?

Brian

Dave NYC
05-26-11, 02:29 PM
I had this problem and didn't replace anything but the metal wire that moved the regulator easy and cheap fix.

I was not asking you all that, I was asking if this was the right part.




Looks like the right part to me..... Good price with the motor.

Thanks, you are correct, it is the right part as i double checked it, I ordered it Tuesday and it came the next day with free shipping. So, this should not be a problem. Thanks again.

Dave NYC
05-27-11, 12:51 AM
I'm going to have it installed tomorrow, I hope it works, it is pretty sturdy.

Dave NYC
05-28-11, 12:51 AM
I'm going to have it installed tomorrow, I hope it works, it is pretty sturdy.

Update:

Well, everything turned out great. I took the Caddy over to the local shop and they installed the regulator for $47. So, that was $40 for the brand new rear passenger window regulator and $47 to install, making it a grand total of $87 and about 45 minutes wait time (I brought a book to read). I think I got off pretty easy, as everything is so expensive in New York. The regulator works like a charm.

Thanks for all your advice.

:bouncy:

jerrit1
06-08-11, 09:20 PM
I don't think that would give you the results you are looking for.
your two options are do the cotter pin repair on your broken regulator or just install the new regulator as is.
I did the cotter pin fix on my LR door. I drilled where the plastic broke and put the cotter pin through the hole. I did not do the cotter pin on the top and bottom, the bottom plastic was fully intact, I only add the cotter pin to the top (that gets the most stress from rolling window up). Just did this fix today...my first one, hopefully it lasts.

kildysartkid
06-22-11, 10:08 PM
I was feeling very happy that I did not have the window regulator issues that most seem to have with their Caddys and bingo it happened today. I repaired my passenger side window regulator using this cotter pin fix, I used 5/32" x 2'' cotter pins and washers also, as in the pics earlier in the thread. Its important to bend the cotter pins tight to the rail as possible, I used a screwdriver to push up on the cotter pins from underneath as you are bending it. This will help reduce play in the window travel. Also for ease of putting the door panel back on I made sure both steel spring clips for the arm rest area were on the door rather than the panel, this way you just have to line up the locating pins of the door panel with the holes in the door and push it on. Also you will need a T-20 torx screwdriver to remove 2 clips that help to hold the water shield in place, this was not mentioned earlier.

gwite
06-30-11, 11:40 PM
Hello everyone. I found these forums in seeking a remedy for quite probably the same issues. It may have been mentioned in the other thread, but has anyone tried combining the cotter pins with a little epoxy in maybe trying to make the pins more stable?

I kinda dread taking the door apart, but I really almost don't have a choice. Really strapped finacially, so I think I will have to try my attempt at a self repair here. My driver's front door window gave a loud "pop" one day. About the next time I used the car, heard a similar but not quite so loud pop while adjusting the window. When I rolled it completely down, it fails to move at all anymore.

Thanks so much for all the info here. Hope I am able to use it successfully.

gwite
07-02-11, 03:53 AM
2004 Deville base
Driver's window won't roll up.

Hello all. New to the forumsas probably the same has occurred in my 2004 base Deville. Like some others here, I am just havine a heck of a time getting the driver's door liner off. That thing is just achored to the middle area of the door.

You guys sure the 2004 is the same. Just don't know what to do.

bigtone
07-04-11, 11:10 AM
I just repaired the passenger side front window on my 01 Deville. I had planned on using the cotter pins, but when I got it all ripped apart, I noticed that there are 2 sets of metal 'fingers' which are encased in the plastic piece that seems to always break. I would imaging that these 'fingers' are what holds the plastic to the steel regulator. Parts of the plastic on mine was completely broken away, exposng the metal fingers which are part of the stamping of the regulator assembly. With the cable in place, I squeezed the fingers together with pliers (on both the up and down side) and it now works like new. Did not even need the cotter pins. I should have stopped to take a picture of what I'm talking about, but I didn't think about it until I had it all back together.

Ranger
07-05-11, 11:15 PM
That thing is just achored to the middle area of the door.

Don't pull on it. LIFT it off.

Dave NYC
07-07-11, 02:19 AM
Don't pull on it. LIFT it off.

Correct......:)

Breeze454
07-08-11, 06:12 PM
Just did the cotter pin fix to a reg I replaced a year ago, that just broke again, perfect solution, good work ELI ICE.

bevdaily
07-09-11, 11:19 AM
my right rear (passenger side) window fell. My son attempted to open panels. He got the outer panel off successfully but is concerned about the wiring connection. He says it "looks" like he would have to cut wires and is not willing to do that. Can you help?

8.2liter
07-17-11, 01:43 AM
Thanks ELI ICE. Borderline genius. Now somebody needs to sell a kit online containing 2 cotter pins for $19.95. Seriously, luckily I had the Gorilla black duct tape in the "03 DES yes DES for the automatic window drop 40 minutes from home in a balmy 88 degrees. So keep the duct tape in the trunk if you have any plastic regulators in play.

DSNCB919
08-18-11, 09:52 PM
Im attempting the cotter pin fix but Im a bit confused, okay for one when I got my regulator out I realized that the top wheel of the pulley system the wire isant overtop of it as it should be and its way to tight to pull it over the pulley, other than that my regulator looks fine but where do I put the cotter pins exactly? like in the imagine it looks like they are on the beed but then it looks like they are on the part of the regulator that goes up and down.. can someone please explain in detail?

jimalicia
09-01-11, 08:48 PM
Man, I would be happy to buy the gent that posted the cotter pin fix above! 1.98 to repair the RR, too bad I didn't know this for the first 3!

:thumbsup:

Leeho
09-22-11, 03:41 PM
I just fixed my Driver side window with the cotter pin method. Working so far. Also had to remove the cable gearbox the motor is mounted on to re-string the cable that had come off the spool inside the gearbox. I drilled out the rivets holding the gearbox to the frame, then replaced the rivets with 10-32 screw and nut. (only replaced 3 of the 4- the 4th screw interfered with the motor mounting flush to the frame.
THANKS TO ALL FOR THEN INFO ON DOOR PANEL REMOVAL(Lowcola) AND COTTER PIN REPAIR! Easy to follow and such complete information.

BigDaddy63
09-25-11, 03:34 PM
My damn driver side regulator popped for the FOURTH time in 3 years, so I did the cotter pin repair. Other than a little play, it seems to be working fine and should actually be stronger than the stupid plastic piece GM decided to use for a 60K car.

Now, for about 30 cents I can fix this problem in the future

Thanks again

ninefinger
10-08-11, 09:36 PM
I just fixed the regulator on my 2002 Deville using the Cotter Pin trick. Except I didn't have any cotter pins handy so I made some out of #10 solid copper wire. Seems to be a very stable fix. Thanks again to all in this forum. Great ideas that save me lots of money and time.

cloudsts98
10-20-11, 10:12 PM
great tip. im going to try this during the weekend. i did already take my door panel off and looked at the regulator because i need to hold the window up somehow. i noitced the cable is kinked (bent or twisted) will this still work? im wondering if its going to get stuck in the motor becuse its twisted.
also any ideas on how to stop the slack in the window? thx guys!

aamir209
11-26-11, 01:42 PM
Please help i can't find the pdf when i click on the link it doesn't work. What should i do?

jralvara
11-27-11, 04:28 PM
I have the same problem as aamir209, the link to the pdf is dead. Could someone re-up it? Thanks!

Ranger
11-27-11, 09:37 PM
I PM'd the OP to repost it if he can, but he hasn't been here since 10/11/11.

bhuntington
12-03-11, 12:20 PM
This link does not work and I desperately need to replace the window lift motor in my deville which just broke on me about an hour ago. I appreciate any help thank you

I had same problem trying to access the pdf file myself until I registered as a forum member. Once you've created an account, log in and links/attachments referenced in threads will then be fully accessible.

productionx
01-09-12, 12:05 AM
How did those hold up? I just bought an 03 Deville with this issue.

cadillacforumsJKS
03-13-12, 09:23 PM
I am on my 12th regulator. All windows have been replaced at least twice, with some 3 times. I bought regulators only for about $40. I am getting to be an expert on taking them out - I can make the repair in about 30 minutes. This time, I think I will try the cotter-key method instead of buying another regulator (this last one worked for abnout 2-1/2 years before failing again).

stinger161
03-16-12, 07:34 PM
Well just did the cotter pin fix and after some test runs before buttoning everything back up it worked about 5 times and something gave again. So gotta tear everything back apart and see what it was.

Dadcad
04-28-12, 05:56 PM
The cotter pin fix is great. I have done two on my 2004 Deville. No problems whatsoever. You probably know that you have to remove the lifter arm from the track to do this repair. The lifter arm runs on the track at three (plastic tab) points. My only caution here is that you remove the arm by applying gentle pry pressure on the small single tab while applying gentle pressure on the lifter arm to move it away from that side of he track. Once it clears its side of the track, you just gently fold the whole arm towards the other two plastic runners. You don't have to remove the arm at that point since you just need enough space to put the cotter pins in place,, but you can if you wish. The most critical part of the whole job has nothing to do with the regulator. You MUST be very careful to remove the door trim panel by placing the trim removal tool EXACTLY at each trim attachment point as shown in the service manual. If you don't, I GUARANTEE you will break your trim panel anchor points! BTW, I have been running my cotter pin repaired regulators for two and three years respectively.

venomz
05-05-12, 08:25 PM
I supplemented the cotter pin fix by making bushings to keep the pins and the cable from rubbing together. I picked up some 5/16 nylon fasteners from Lowe's, cut a slit down one side so that I could slide it over the cable, used the heads of the cotter pins to clamp the fasteners together again, and then proceeded to do the rest of the repair per instructions.

I just wanted to share this solution to the potential problem of the pins wearing through the cable.

yellow1
05-26-12, 02:55 PM
Best idea since sliced bread. Thanks for the great tip. Have now done two windows and both work great!!!!

aldefurianni
07-02-12, 10:44 AM
I've replaced two regulators on 01 and 02 Devilles in the past year. I will be fixing the old regulators as back-ups using the cotter pin fix. I assume that I need to take the window lift bar of the regulator assemply off the support beam. Is there a trick to doing this without breaking anything?

Please read this to help before doing this for the first time - the best - notes/tips I received from this forum so far include:

1) The PDF file with pictures on how to do the fixes posted by lowscola on 4/6/06:
http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com...dow_repair.pdf - most important thought from this is that after you separate (I used a pry bar) the outer panel edge push clips from the door frame - you simply slide the door panel UP - (do not force the panel outward!) I did this on the first door and destroyed a bunch of panel clps and other important hardware - the next car owner will get a surprise if they ever open that up again!.

2) One poster had a great tip for replacing the door panel - regarding the two metal clips that are on the door panel that slip out of the white plastic retainers: before replacing the panel, remove these from the door panel and slide them into the white plastic retainers. When you replace the panel, they will snap into the inner door panel. This way you don't need to blindly slide them into the clips. (I'm sure that's how they do it at the factory!):yup:

3) I was unfamiliar with the white push pins that hold the black inner panel to the door - On the first door I fixed I tried prying them out and broke every one :annoyed::banghead:- DON't DO THIS! These are ingenious clips that only require you to push in the center of the clip to release them from the door. To replace them, simply puch the centers back out until the are sticking out the top. Once inserted, press the centers untill they are flush again. (Everyone that has seen these clips before will probably laugh at my earlier ignorance but until you have experienced them and understand how they work it was not intuitive. I did not realize there was a separate center to the clip - bad over-40 eyes!)

4) Other notes: a) You do not need to disconnect the wiring harness from the door panel, but you will need to separate the wire from the inner black panel for room to work. b) when replacing the window regulator into the door, you need to keep it close to the inner door frame or it will appear that it does not fit. These thoughts may or may not be intuitive to you and I add these because they were not to me.

I'm posting this because I am appreciative of all those posters that paid it forward for my benefit!

Btw - 1st window fixed (rear driver): 2.5 hours and a lot of clips and harware broken. 2nd window fixed (front passenger): 1 hour - one clip broken and one alignment pin broken. - really easy comparatively. Bought both replacements (including motor) at a local salvage yard - $100+tax each. Tools needed (not sure of sizes) for remove/replacement: small flathead screwdriver (for plastic door lock), Phillips screwdriver, Torx Driver, Pry bar and Socket set.

Best-
Al

aldefurianni
07-03-12, 08:37 AM
I've replaced two regulators on 01 and 02 Devilles in the past year. I will be fixing the old regulators as back-ups using the cotter pin fix. I assume that I need to take the window lift bar of the regulator assemply off the support beam. Is there a trick to doing this without breaking anything?

Please read this to help before doing this for the first time - the best - notes/tips I received from this forum so far include:

1) The PDF file with pictures on how to do the fixes posted by lowscola on 4/6/06:
http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com...dow_repair.pdf - most important thought from this is that after you separate (I used a pry bar) the outer panel edge push clips from the door frame - you simply slide the door panel UP - (do not force the panel outward!) I did this on the first door and destroyed a bunch of panel clps and other important hardware - the next car owner will get a surprise if they ever open that up again!.

2) One poster had a great tip for replacing the door panel - regarding the two metal clips that are on the door panel that slip out of the white plastic retainers: before replacing the panel, remove these from the door panel and slide them into the white plastic retainers. When you replace the panel, they will snap into the inner door panel. This way you don't need to blindly slide them into the clips. (I'm sure that's how they do it at the factory!):yup:

3) I was unfamiliar with the white push pins that hold the black inner panel to the door - On the first door I fixed I tried prying them out and broke every one :annoyed::banghead:- DON't DO THIS! These are ingenious clips that only require you to push in the center of the clip to release them from the door. To replace them, simply puch the centers back out until the are sticking out the top. Once inserted, press the centers untill they are flush again. (Everyone that has seen these clips before will probably laugh at my earlier ignorance but until you have experienced them and understand how they work it was not intuitive. I did not realize there was a separate center to the clip - bad over-40 eyes!)

4) Other notes: a) You do not need to disconnect the wiring harness from the door panel, but you will need to separate the wire from the inner black panel for room to work. b) when replacing the window regulator into the door, you need to keep it close to the inner door frame or it will appear that it does not fit. These thoughts may or may not be intuitive to you and I add these because they were not to me.

I'm posting this because I am appreciative of all those posters that paid it forward for my benefit!

Btw - 1st window fixed (rear driver): 2.5 hours and a lot of clips and harware broken. 2nd window fixed (front passenger): 1 hour - one clip broken and one alignment pin broken. - really easy comparatively. Bought both replacements (including motor) at a local salvage yard - $100+tax each. Tools needed (not sure of sizes) for remove/replacement: small flathead screwdriver (for plastic door lock), Phillips screwdriver, Torx Driver, Pry bar and Socket set.

Best-
Al Try this link from Low Scala - his personal website contains a great window repair manual he prepared:
http://maddoxcomputersystems.com/lowscola/auto/user_downloads/dhs_window_repair.pdf

Thank you!

eagle9
09-24-12, 05:01 PM
was driving home today. while rolling driver door up, heard some grinding and a pop. im assuming its the plastic part breaking. gonna try the cotter pin trick. WHERE on the door panel would i put a screw driver or other device to remove the door panel without breaking the clips??? thanx.

Ranger
09-24-12, 09:59 PM
There is another thread (in Tech Tips) that explains the panel removal.

eagle9
09-24-12, 10:53 PM
There is another thread (in Tech Tips) that explains the panel removal.

thanx, gonna try this repair in the morning. hope its simple. i only have ONE window that works now. when i bought the car, the rears didnt work. i didnt care, just rolled the front down when it got hot and i didnt wanna run the air. gotta at least fix this driver window..............smh

phopkins
09-25-12, 03:37 PM
Thanks so much lowscola for the "how to". I ordered my motor/regulator from Window Motor World for $135.00 shipping included to Canada. The job took just over an hour and my 2001 DTS was back in business without breaking anything. You deserve a big "Atta Boy". Thanks again.

eagle9
09-25-12, 04:30 PM
Well, about about 3 hours of trying to get ONE stripped nut that mounts the regulator to the door frame loose, i was too frustrated to try the cotter pin trick and just went ahead and purchased a regulator for 90 dollars at o reilly's...... Door went back together in 15 minutes after all that turmoil.......:helpless:

eagle9
09-25-12, 06:13 PM
one more thing, even though i went ahead and bought the regulator, i still SAVED money by learning how to remove that panel myself. ive got two more windows that are broke, so, at the worst, i can buy the parts and still come out ahead...........:yup:

ott4deville
10-05-12, 01:11 PM
Great info, my RR regulator went four months ago.. replaced with a new one and did not do the cotter pin trick..:( This time I'm doing the cotter pin trick on my LR regulator that just did the pop and drop as well..
Thanks again!

cadillacpaco
10-11-12, 07:15 PM
If you are going to just tape it up make sure to use painters tape. It is the blue colored masking tape. Any other tape will take days to come off after baking in the sun... If your in the Orlando area make sure to use Power Window Repair 407-415-5401. The owners name is Bob and is a super nice guy and gets the parts factory direct and cost far below 1/2 of what the stealerships charge for the parts and installation. They even cheaper than the jerks who say the rebuild your broken parts [with super glue and pipe cleaners] :) Orlando Power Window Repair did all my windows.

ORCoastGuy
11-15-12, 10:23 PM
Several years since the first post in this thread, and I just wanted to say that I used all the above info. to solve this exact same problem tonight. This is by far the most useful, and well-contributed post I've ever read about ANY topic in ANY forum. THANK YOU to each and every one of you who contributed to this post!

I've had my '01 Deville DTS door panels off previously for another reason, so I was familir with that process, making the removal of the regulator arm an absolute cinch! It took me longer to run to the hardware store for some cotter pins, and to fit/bend them into place on the lifting arm working on the kitchen table, than it did for me to take the regulator arm out and put it back in. Working great now! Easily a $300-$600 mechanic bill saved by $0.55 in cotter pins!!!

Trendz1911
12-13-12, 11:13 PM
Hey I couldn't find the cotter pin fix guide from the links posted in this thread. Says it's invalid link. Any help? My regulator broke and it's been raining here so I have to cover my window with a plastic bag :helpless:

mrgoodbar67
12-21-12, 09:05 PM
funny that this always happened to me when it rained. instead of using a bag..i just jammed a magazine between the window and the inside of the car weather stripping and it forced enough pressure on the window to keep it up.

hope it helps in the meantime.

DENNISUE
02-28-13, 01:22 PM
We are interested in your sheet metal fix please! Thanks

MuRCieLaGo
05-12-13, 10:56 AM
It would be awesome to have a nice DIY tutorial for cotter pins... I'll try anyway to fix the regulators with my two left hands! :(

Dave NYC
05-12-13, 07:38 PM
For folks that simply want a new reliable regulator for your Caddy, you can get them for as low as $25 on the link below, it comes brand new with motor. I bought 2 of these at different times, 1 for the drivers side and left rear passenger over 3 years ago and they work like a champ.
:)

Take a look,

http://tinyurl.com/blf6ygp

ORCoastGuy
05-24-13, 07:28 AM
Update: My cotter pin fix worked for 5 months, then gave way. The reason: I didn't use heavy-enough gauge cotter pins! The regulator pulls the window up and down with significant force. Over time, that force bent the cotter pins such that they pulled right through the holes on the arm they were bent around. So I have performed the same operation again, this time using larger, stronger cotter pins. My advice is to use the largest (heaviest gauge) cotter pins you can find that will still fit through the holes in the arm. Working great once again, and I have much more confidence in this solving the problem for the car's final years. (12 yrs. old now, I don't plan to keep it many more)

txoilman8
05-30-13, 09:07 AM
I took the regulator out, seen my cable was rat nested and kinked, took off the motor, drilled out the rivets holding the cable guide spool together (use 5/16" x 1/2" long machine bolts to replace rivets, can access 3 out of 4 rivets drilled, but will be plenty to hold guide in place), bought new 1/16" cable and 1/16" cable stops (need 7' cable $0.26 per foot, stops $1.24 per bag at L_o_w_e_s). When taking apart, pay close attention to notice a short and long side of the cable beyond the middle cable stop that carries the window clamp and the cable covers are also different lengths, the short one going to the bottom side of the regulator, long to the top. As far as the window clamp (which had the busted white plastic lock down for the middle carry stop) if you look close you'll see two metal tabs looking up at you where the plastic broke (might have to break away a little more plastic to reveal), I just folded them over onto the new cable to lock the middle stop in place and works better than ever, total fix for all 4 windows $12, just took more time with panels than fixing regulator.

The whole regulator comes apart pretty self explanatory, I mean if its broke to begin with, and plan to buy a new one anyway, what is there to lose in breaking it down. The hardest part I had was adjusting the cable for its proper length between the stops. I found putting the window clamp all the way down, and winding the cable up 4 wraps on the blue spool, saving 1 wrap for the opposite end of the cable gives you 6" per wrap and there's only 1' 4" of total (rear) window travel. Be sure to have the window clamp all the way down, and when wrapping the spool you'll have to set the lower cable cover so the spring that goes into the black cable guide is almost completely compressed, if not, it allows too much slack in the cable and will just backlash again or reverse onto the spool and more than likely kink again leaving you starting all over again. Good luck, hope this helps some for the do it your selfer like myself.

Dave NYC
06-02-13, 08:47 PM
Did we evrr figure out why my posts are being moderated on some theads/sections? Thanks.....

MrKinetik
08-04-13, 08:05 PM
This thread has been a great resource. I did the cotter pin fix on my 2004 Deville and now the window is a little noisy when I roll it up and down which I guess is because of the cotter pins running along the track. Not sure if there's anyway to fix the noise BUT I can roll the window up and down. It's the passenger side anyway and I very rarely roll it down so it's all good. Beats buying a regulator. I can put that money into these door speakers. Might as well upgrade while I have the panel off!

KCProper357
08-20-13, 12:11 PM
I have found a place on the web that sells both the regulator/motor assy or just the regulator...autopartswarehouse.com.....OEM parts, wwwaaayyy below dealer cost!!

monty_n_philly
09-08-13, 07:08 PM
I did mine about 4 months ago,, passenger rear... I bought a new one for $33... and found this video and did it myself in about 1 hr.. this video is perfect... it takes 10 mins to do it now..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2qsjXrzmgA

GeoGoGo
01-09-14, 02:48 PM
I know this is an old thread but does anyone have a copy of the .pdf from the 1st post? Surprisingly after 5 years, the link doesn't work! :) Thank you all in advance.

mmantov
03-07-14, 07:34 PM
Thank you to everyone for the advice. I just completed this repair today using the cotter pin method. All I would add is that between the cotter pin and the "knob" on the wire, I used some small split-lock washers I had lying around. They slipped over the cable and I gently squeezed them to be sure they don't slip off. I used about 6 of them. A second option would be to wind some thick copper wire around the cable. This way there is no slack.

Only problem I had was that I broke a few plastic fasteners that hold the interior door panel and soundproofing panel in place. Plastic should be outlawed in the manufacture of cars!

Shop Girl
04-16-14, 08:13 PM
Yes I would like the instructions to fix.

__________________________________________________ ______________

Your CF account is validated. please go back through this thread and others in Tech Tips to find instructions. It's already posted in here and up in Deville.

carpercarol
05-04-14, 06:09 PM
Did you get your window fixed? we can't figure out how to remove the door panel. Do you know how?
Thanks

Hdm713
05-21-14, 10:53 PM
Hey I have a 04 deville and passenger window was working fine at times it will work and it will cut off right after also I would turn my key on and off and it would work again now it's completely lost power neither the door locks or window work but bottom light does work I know it's probably something electrical please help if you know what it can be I've checked fuses and removed panel to checked the cables and module but nothin it's working lost power completely all my other doors have power and work fine.