There have been many complaints regarding window regulator failure for certain 2000+ Cadillac DeVilles. I have had all of mine fail one by one. The first was fixed at the dealer for ~$500.00. The second one I did myself for $180.00.

I've put together a how to in pdf format and can be downloaded at:

http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com/lowscola/auto/user_downloads/dhs_window_repair.pdf

Excellent. Thank you.

great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...

great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape,

I was going to mention that, too. That's the way the manual recommends. I did it last weekend, but I used duct tape.

I didn't realize that the problem with these things was the regulator itself and not the motor. You can get just the motors from auto parts stores, but GM only sells the entire regulator assembly. I got a new take-off part from a coach builder for less than half of the dealer price.

Jim

Ya, i keep duct tape far away from my car, just because of the residu (sp?) it leaves, masking tape wil not leave anythign behind (unless you leave it in the hot arizona sun for a few hrs). The only problem i ever had with all 4 of mine was the little plastic clip breaking and the window then isnt connected to the cable. so i just took a pice of sheet metal, and riveted it around the cable stop, and it wil never break again :thumbsup:

great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...
I came across this Forum after receiving a $560 quote from the dealer to replace the regulator. They wanted to show me that the strap had actually broken, which sounds like what i am reading in this blog. Please advise how I can make this repair myself, as you have indicated is possible.

I was quoted $560 to conduct the exact repair you are describing can you please advise how this repair can be made, without going through dealer.
Much appreciated

I was quoted $560 to conduct the exact repair you are describing can you please advise how this repair can be made, without going through dealer.
Much appreciated

You'll need to go through the dealer for the part. The aftermarket places just sell motors as far as I know. Try www.gmpartsdirect.com. Their shipping is expensive but you still come out way ahead of the dealer's retail rates. I think you can get the regulator/motor assembly for around $200 shipped. Then just follow the directions in the PDF file posted above. Just don't take the glass out unless you really want to. It can be taped into place. Once you get the door panel off you'll see how it works and the consequences of pulling the regulator out without securing the glass (read: breakage).

Jim

great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...

Thanks. I'll try the tape method when I get to my two broken rear windows. That will make this a whole lot easier because I was very nervous trying to be sure I didn't break the glass.

I'm also interested in your fix as well. I may try to actually fix one of the broken assemblies before ordering another replacement/re-man'd part. I was thinking about using a resin at first but your metal & rivets fix sounds good too.

I just can't get over how bad this design is.

I was quoted $560 to conduct the exact repair you are describing can you please advise how this repair can be made, without going through dealer.
Much appreciated

If you want a relatively stress free part swap, just order another assembly from:

http://stores.ebay.com/WINDOW-MOTOR-WORLD-INC

it's ~$180.00

If you want a relatively stress free part swap, just order another assembly from:

http://stores.ebay.com/WINDOW-MOTOR-WORLD-INC

it's ~$180.00

i second that, i used them and am totally satisfied, shipped reasonably quickly, fit perfectly and customer service is good too.

great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...


HELLO,

I AM IN SERIOUS NEED OF SOME SERIOUS CADDILLAC OWNERS. MY REAR PASSANGER SIDE WINDOW STOP WORKING YESTERDAY. IT IS LOOSE IN THE TRACK, I CAN PULL IT UP AND DOWN WITH MY HAND. IF I PUT THE WINDOW UP AND PUSH DOWN ON THE CONTROL, IT GOES DOWN. IT IS ALMOST LIKE IT IS OFF TRACK OR SOMETHING. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME. I TOOK DOOR PANAL OFF AND WAS GOING TO STICK A PIECE OF WOOD UNDER WINDOW SO IT STAYS UP. I CANT BRING MYSELF TO DO IT. IT IS A 2001 DEVILLE. I DONT HAVE THE CASH TO FIX RIGHT NOW. ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED. THANKS

ok, wow, i forgot about this thread,

Unfortunatly i didnt take any pictures when i fixed mine. but ill try and to my best on explaing how i did it. ad ill pre warn now, my typing and punctuation gets a little weird when im going on a roll so bear with me... :thumbsup:

First.

this only works if you can pull your window up and down with your hand and you can still hear the motor running.

Second.

Im sure all of you can take the door pannel off of the car. (if not im sure there is a plethora of info on this forum about that) but what you have to do is take off the inner door pannel, and the black plastic liner.

Third.

you must be able to to get to the door glass and push it up. all the way to where you can get to the 2 10mm bolts that are accessible thru the holes in the sheet medal under the black plastic liner. losten them up but DO not take them out. then slide the glass up and then useing masking tape, loop about 3 pieces from the inside up, ou and over to the outside. THIS WILL HOLD YOUR WINDOW UP.

Fourth.

Take out the regulator assembly. (3 10mm bolts) save all hardware cause you will be putting this back in. its a little tricky on manuvering it out of the door but it is done, just remember how you got it out, since it goes back in the exact opposite way that it came out. (if you get what im saying)

Now for the fun part.

1.on my assembly what was broken was the white clip that is the only thing on the whole assembly that was plastic. there is a "knot" on the cable withc is probably at the top or the botom of the assembly now. that plastic clip holds the lifter arm for the glass to the cable (stupid huh) what you need to do is attach that Knot to the lifter arm.

2. you will need to plug in the regulator assembly and the cable from the door back into your car, and then adjust the regulator to where the "knot" is about centered on the assembly.

3. the lifter arm needs to be taken off the up and down track, to do this just slide the arm one way as your pull off one side at a time on the track.

4. Under the lifter arm where it was between the track and the arm you will see the clip i am talking about. what i used here was a small strip of 16g sheet metal about 1/2 in wide and 1 1/2 long. i opened my vice, big enoug for a screwdriver and then a little extra, layed the strip over the vice and smacked the screw driver down in the gap making a perfect shaped "hump" in the strip of metal. ____n____ <-- (best i can show it)

5. then take the piece you just made and flatten out one of the sides of the "hump" so it has a small pocket. then take that to your regulator assembly and attach it over the knot to where it was in the factory position. I used 4 very shallow rivets and riveted that strip over the knot on mine, workes like a charm.

6. its a little tricky to do the step above but it can be done and dont get frustrated, the piece is already broken, you cant break it any more. after you get the piece back in place, you must attach the arm to the slide, and then your basically done.

7. put the regulator assembly back into the car. bolt it inplace. and then slowly remove your tape, WHILE HOLDING THE GLASS ! slowly slide the glass back down into the door untill it sits in the clips you lostened up earlier. (you might need to move the arm up and down with the switch to bea ble to see where the clips are.

8. Once the glass is in the arm, and you know it is, (dont tighten up the clamps yet) roll up the window all the way using the switch, (if you have tint this is where you align it for light gaps. slide the window glass to where its centered and you have no light gaps. then tighten up the 2 10mm bolts HOT TOO TIGHT!!! its pinching glass it just needs to be hand tight to where it stops...

9. Put the black plastic liner on and put the door pannel back in, and wha la, there you have it...

if you have any questions, pm me, or use my instant messanger account, its on all the time on my sidekick.

ok now time for a drink....:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I've done two windows on mine. I got the regulators with motors for ~85 each! I had to pull them out and ship them. I just used a piece of wood to hold the window up for the couple days of no regulator....very easy to do this guys. Took maybe 20mins to put the new one in(including putting everything back together properly. These are the people I used, they are e-bayers too and sell the regulators for around 180 each. Very nice people and quick to ship....FYI

I can fix your regulator, but you first have to send me all the parts of your
broken one with the motor. It will coast you only $85 dollars each (my shipping
to you is including), plus your shipping to me (usually around $8 dollars).

After I repair your regulator it will take 3-4 working days to delivery it
back to you via FedEx ground.

To order this service you will need to go to http://www.onetobuy.bizland.com/id158.htm it will take you to the right page where you will find a
button for payment.
You will receive payment confirmation by Email, please print out and place in the box when sending your unit.

My shipping address:

MIRROR GUARD CO.
1377 41st Street
BROOKLYN NY 11218
If you want, you can call me at -

TEL: (718) 851-0100

Alexander

great how to, but you actually do not need to remove the window glass, just after you losten the 2 10mm bolts that pinch it into the glass, roll the window upwards and use some masking tape, and run about 4 strips from the inside up over the top and back down the outer piece... it sounds scary but it will hold, i promise... Also i have found a way to just fix the old one, so you will never have to replace the assembly when the plastic tab breaks again, TOTAL COST : free if you have a small piece of sheet metal lying around, let me know if any one would like to know how, i know those damn things are expencive...
How do you fix them yourself? I had 3 break so far. Thanks MB

How do you fix them yourself? I had 3 break so far. Thanks MB

Two Post's up I Explained how to fix them. post nimber 13. that should tell you how to. :thumbsup:

Ya, i keep duct tape far away from my car, just because of the residu (sp?) it leaves, masking tape wil not leave anythign behind (unless you leave it in the hot arizona sun for a few hrs). The only problem i ever had with all 4 of mine was the little plastic clip breaking and the window then isnt connected to the cable. so i just took a pice of sheet metal, and riveted it around the cable stop, and it wil never break again :thumbsup:
can you please tell me how i can fix my regulator with th3e sheet metal in detail.i would appreciate it so much.

Boy are you good!!!!!!!!!!
You have provided more than I could have hoped for and all in color.
Thanks so much. I needed to take a look before I tackle the job but i was not able to determine how to get the door panel off from the other folks trying to help.
You are the GURU of this repair for sure.
Thanks a lot.
Tom

Boy are you good!!!!!!!!!!
You have provided more than I could have hoped for and all in color.
Thanks so much. I needed to take a look before I tackle the job but i was not able to determine how to get the door panel off from the other folks trying to help.
You are the GURU of this repair for sure.
Thanks a lot.
Tom

Thanks. I'm glad you found it usefull.

2001 Deville. The window can be held up with small suction cups. After my drivers side regulator broke, I used these on the inside down again the top of the door panel. They stayed there for 3 months until I repaired the regulator.

John

awesome pdf.. thanks for posting :thumbsup:

I just did the passenger side on 2004 DTS. I would like to thank you for your effort putting this together - it was a great help with photos to look at.
Any new developments on parts, methods etc?
Found two pins bent up in the window attachment plate where the " up" shoulder should be (broken off) and used them to hold the swaged socket on the wire rope and added the hump back thingy contacting the upper side of the pins. Hope this will hold up. I noticed a lot of stress cracks al over the plastic molding on he attachment plate. I did have FSM for 2004 since it is out of warrenty now.
For anyone with the 6 pin connector on the window motor the two top outer large (wide ) pins operate the motor (up/down).

Thanks again. Great job.

Great instructions and a real money saver. Took passenger front and driver rear off with no problem.


Thanks

Thanks for all the help guys. I was able to repair mine using epoxy. If it fails again I will do the sheet metal trick. It sounds way more stable.