: Crank Position Sensor Replace Quick Question...



96_SLS
04-03-06, 09:50 AM
('96 SLS)
Ok. Maybe two questions.

1. Are there only 2 bolts holding the oil filter housing to the block?
2. How on earth do you get a tool up in there to remove the upper passenger-side filter housing bolt? Should I use a socket with a u-joint? What did you guys use?

I can see the 2 sensors above the motor mount. The top one looks dry, but the bottom one looks wet, like it might be leaking. I've had problems with the car shutting off while on highway exit ramps, and it scares the crap out of my wife. That's why I'm replacing the sensors.

Thanks for any help!
-Dewey

1993 eldorado green1
04-03-06, 01:14 PM
('96 SLS)
Ok. Maybe two questions.

1. Are there only 2 bolts holding the oil filter housing to the block?
2. How on earth do you get a tool up in there to remove the upper passenger-side filter housing bolt? Should I use a socket with a u-joint? What did you guys use?

I can see the 2 sensors above the motor mount. The top one looks dry, but the bottom one looks wet, like it might be leaking. I've had problems with the car shutting off while on highway exit ramps, and it scares the crap out of my wife. That's why I'm replacing the sensors.

Thanks for any help!
-Dewey



you shouldnt have to remove any of the oiling system. i have a 95 ETC and all i did was jack up the car and remove the lower plastic covers to gain some access to the sensors, then you can reach your hand in there and unplug the sensors. the bolt that holds them in the block is a 10mm socket. i used a 1/4 inch deep well socket with a swivel and a long extension and was able to break the bolts loose, then you can reach your arm in there and finger out the bolts.

installation is the same thing, slide in the sensors and finger tighten the bolts as tight as you can get them, then use your socket to tighten it up. i am 6'3 and 250# so u can imagine, i have big hands and arms and i was able to do it like this and it took me about 20 mins to remove and install both sensors.

did you check codes before you bought the sensors? there is also a crank sensor that can cause the same problem. 1996 is obd2 and there should be a history code for like the crank/cam sensor. if you see this in the codes then its safe to say that that is your problem.

good luck, its not as hard as it looks..

96_SLS
04-03-06, 09:14 PM
Thanks. I'll look at it again tomorrow morning.
No, I did not get any codes with the engine stalls. It would happen while coasting to a stop. It would just die, and I'd start it right back up. No codes. These sensors are my first guess.

AutoGeek
04-04-06, 12:16 AM
I changed these sensors on my 2001 STS the same way with a 1/4" drive and a swivil socket. Not much room to work. I would suggest taking out the screws for both sensors at the same time and replacing them at the same time. This way both sensor holes are plugged when removing and replacing the screws. I would hate to have one of the bolts slip out of your hand or the socket and into one of the sensor holes and be in the bottom of your engine pan.:)

eurumbaev
04-05-06, 03:56 PM
Thanks. I'll look at it again tomorrow morning.
No, I did not get any codes with the engine stalls. It would happen while coasting to a stop. It would just die, and I'd start it right back up. No codes. These sensors are my first guess.

I had exact the same problem with my 94 ETC. Had a P083 code. I replaced both sensors to no avail. Then I replaced the Ignition Control Module and it fixed it right up. No more stalls, and starts on the dot.(before took some cranking to start) Found a cheap ICM at a junk yard. Hope this helps.

Dadillac
04-07-06, 09:18 PM
I just got done changing my crank sensors. I noticed that the old ones were angled at the crankshaft, and the new ones are straight. I assume that the angles are wear? Plus, that was not an easy task. I removed the oil filter adapter, but still had a hard time. I have relatively small hands (I wear a medium glove) and found space to be very tight. The hardest part was removing the connectors from the old sensors. There are red retainer clips on the connectors, that need to be removed, before the connector can be taken off. I fought with them for at least a half hour. After putting the new sensors in, I said the hell with the red retainers, and threw them away. Then, getting the oil pressure connector back onto the sender was a real pain. Not alot of play in the wiring, and the front motor mount is in the way. I am just glad it is done.

I read in the FSM about a learn procedure for the new sensors. Mostly what i picked up from it, is to make sure that the engine still cuts out at the preset RPM. I checked mine, and it still cuts out. I will assume that the car learned the new sensors okay?

Don