I need to adjust properly the throtle cables on my 1996 Fleetwood Brougham. Anyone know the right procedure? Can you help me - I´m from Europe, no real service here, only many "authorised" dealers: never seen such car, but exactly know the cost of repair...
I have it, fairly easy. You need a 1/8" drill bit, a 1/4" 3" or longer extension and ratchet, and you need to remove the cover on the traction control relaxer.
Ok, without V4U Coachbuilder option:
1. Press in accelerator cable adjustment button and hold.
2. Position accelerator cable adjuster in the non adjustmed position. Pull cable casing away from adjuster so that the casing will be in its longest position.
3. Release adjustment button.
4. Remove cable adjuster covers.
5. Insert drill bit into the 1/8" drill bit into the 1/8" hole that goes through the 3 cams. Make sure it only goes through to the 3rd cam, else it will bind the assy.
6. Insert the 1/4" extention and ratchet info the 1/4" square hole in the top cam and into the 2nd cam. Rotate all 3 cams clockwise until adjuster can contact their stops. Several clicks of the adjuster should be heard, if not repeat proceedure.
7. The cable assy is now in the adjusted postion.
8. Remove tools.
9. Fully depress accelerator pedal while monitoring throttle angle on scan tool (Tech 1, TTS Datamaster or Freescan). Throttle angle MUST exceed 94%, if not, repeat cable adjustment.
10. Reinstall cover.
Proceedure is pretty simple, you shouldn't have any trouble. Dealers likely would be clueless on this car anyway :)
04-06-06, 11:43 PM
Hi, I have just got a very clean 95 Fleetwood Brougham.
It seems okay, but the steering wanders like the bad old days, compared to my SLS.
The link to the above question is, when I kick down the gas pedal, it kicks back! Any ideas what is going on?
Off the line? Traction control. It shouldn't be doing it any other time.
You can disable it in the glove box and it should not do that anymore. It will reset after you restart the car.
I had to replace my drag link (after 160K miles) that cured my wander problem.
If you don't do your own work, a good suspension shop can ID all the worn parts.
Look for drag link, tie rods, idler arm and lastly, often forgotten, the steering box rag joint (under a cover, hard to remove and see). When an alignment is done they should be able to spot all the worn parts quickly.
I recommend alignment of 0 to 0.2 degrees NEGATIVE camber, as high cast you can get with camber not exceeding 0 degrees (starting to go positive). 0.02 degrees toe in total. Mine has around 4.5 degrees caster on one side, 4.7 on the other and handles confidently as high as 132 mph.... (Don't ask how I know that.....)