What are people running for air filters?

I just put a K&N on my truck and it seems (SOTP feel) better.

I was pondering the Vortec truck filter (4in inlet, large cone) for the LT1. And make my own hot air trap to keep the engine air from messing with it.

As for NEEDING a CAI, I see around 2-3 degrees C difference from infront of the radiator to the air intake sensor that the PCM reads.

Wonder if it really gains much on these cars....

I am not trying a new discussion on the drawbacks of, just wondering who uses and thoughts on it.

I have the K&N FIPK on mine. There was no noticeable seat of the pants change in power, but the car's sound did change and it does feel a tad more responsive at speed.

http://www.richmonddubs.com/gallery/albums/leloz/P3120621.jpg

did the FIAK come with the 1LE looking elbow? Or was that your part swap?

This is the filter I was pondering making use of: http://www.accessconnect.com/chevy_gmc_kn_filter.htm

it has a 4in inlet, so a tad large, but if I can neck down with reducers and make it look good, this is a large filter that might work well.

The 1LE was a part he got separately.

This is still the setup I think I want to do, too.

Yep, just like caddycruiser said.. I bought the 1LE elbow separate to get rid of 'home plate.'

I have the K&N FIPK on mine.

I have the same set-up. But I noticed a SOTP difference, much more noticable than the exhaust set-up. It could be the better throttle response.

Yep, just like caddycruiser said.. I bought the 1LE elbow separate to get rid of 'home plate.'

Where did you get your 1LE from?

The best prices for the K&N FIPK's seem to on Ebay, but I'm not sure about the elbow.

Bought the K&N FIPK on eBay for $178.00 and the 1LE elbow on eBay for $58.00 :thumbsup:

Bought the K&N FIPK on eBay for $178.00 and the 1LE elbow on eBay for $58.00 :thumbsup:

Cool, thanks. I'll just have to look for one there too in my searches:thumbsup:

Either that, or just order a new one from GM since I don't think the price is much more.

The K&N and 1LE elbow were purchase new at those prices, just do a thorough eBay search and I am sure you can find the same deals.

Yeah, I think I said that wrong. I know both were new, I just ment maybe order one from a GM dealer/parts store, etc.

But, yeah, will search and buy on Ebay when ready to do so.

I do wonder why some people notice a considerable difference, some a little, and some virtually nothing after installing the K&N:cookoo:

It's a subjective thing, no doubt, but hmm...

FWIW, my wife drove the truck this weekend and commented to me that there is more power, in passing it was much easier than before.

So sorta an unbiased "test" of installing a K&N and gaining power without the driver knowing it was done.

I will see if I can do it on the LT1 and see if it fits.

I saved these part numbers from a thread in the NAISSO forum a year or more ago.

Air filter replacements:
Fram 7774 Ford Windstar 3.8L filter
Fram7730 Ford Mustang 3.8L filter
Motorcraft FA-1611 conical air filter (4ZZ-9601A)

Supposedly these paper element Ford air filters are all conical and replace the stock airbox and fit directly over the stock MAF end. The guy who came up with these numbers had pictures if memory serves and said it seemed like a nice improvement since surface area is increased.

Personally, I run the stock airbox (plan to drill it out soon) with a stock paper element for maximum filtering capability. I replaced 1st base with a sewer pipe.
If I dyno or hit the track then I might consider a conical Ford filter for kicks since it should be relatively inexpensive.

I just installed my wife's K&N on the Cad this morning to try out. The stock Vortec 262/305/350/454 filter (K&N) will fit directly on the MAF WITH the rubber connection between the MAF and the air box still installed. It fits in to the grove the air box fits in, and tighten with hose clamp.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=E-1796

Yes, it is a big one. Much more surface area than the stock panel filter.

I will do some comparing the data logs with and without to see if airflow really changed or not.

Well, looking back at my data logs, I see, 224 gm/sec, 229 gm/sec and 239 gm/sec max compared to first run with the K&N and I see 246 gm/sec.

Is it valid to say that I am seeing more airflow with the K&N? How much effect does the baro pressure have on this reading?

I do see a relationship of higher Baro I do see higher MAF gm/sec. Temps are all very close.

My gut says, not enough data to draw a worthy conclusion.

I use the K&N FIPK and 1LE elbow. Had them for years. Love them both and would suggest them for anyone modding a Fleetwood. I felt SOTP that the car performed better and I love the intake roar she has now.
As for the effects of baro on the MAF readings, I would assume there would be a difference caused by both temp and baro so unless you do a back to back test with identical temp and baro, comparing MAF readings is gonna be tough.

I have home plate removed, but not first base right now. Works fine, and not quite so loud. Still my friend on the cell phone can hear WOT and likes it....

I was talking through it with a friend last night, and after looking at my data, I was seeing a trend of lower baro, was lower gm/sec air flow, temps pretty close to the same.

I would love to take the car to the track this year w/ and w/o a FIPK and compare back to back 1/4mile runs. And maybe a dyno run too.... Here it is 3 runs for $90 at a local shop in Chicagoland somewhere in the NW Burbs. So I am told....

I have home plate removed, but not first base right now. Works fine, and not quite so loud. Still my friend on the cell phone can hear WOT and likes it....

I was talking through it with a friend last night, and after looking at my data, I was seeing a trend of lower baro, was lower gm/sec air flow, temps pretty close to the same.

I would love to take the car to the track this year w/ and w/o a FIPK and compare back to back 1/4mile runs. And maybe a dyno run too.... Here it is 3 runs for $90 at a local shop in Chicagoland somewhere in the NW Burbs. So I am told....

BaD Bodies is hitting the dyno for a club dyno day on May 6th -- group rate is $60 for three pulls. It's only $50 if we get 20 or more vehicles. Location is Elk Grove Village (NW burns basically). I plan on taking my Caddy.

Also looking to hit Union Grove in mid-to-late May for a club track day. Not date set on that yet.

The Homeplate is not a restriction really for airflow, just for sound silencing. First base, however, is a restriction along with being a silencer.

Scott Mueller told me that the 1994 First Base is not near as restrictive as 95-96.

Anyone ever compare?

I guess we have to look at it 2 ways, is the air being SUCKED into the intake via the first base? OR, is it being blown in?

I just had my carb fully rebuilt in carb shop and when I reinstalled the carb I also put in a k & n filter, sounds different (throaty) , the car performs excellent now, the carb is probably a large part of it. 1980 coupe dev. 24000
miles.

Hard to beat a well tuned Q-Jet for throttle response!

Hard to beat a well tuned Q-Jet for throttle response!

Hell yeah! Gotta love old-school baby!

I really need to get do a K&N & 1LE elbow combo...

In the meantime, may experiment with the el-cheapo hockey puck method just to see what the difference in sound is with only the homeplate piece removed.

This car is almost too quiet, right now, especially when it comes to any engine/exhaust sound, so a little bit more growl is welcome.

I'm doing the hockey puck too. Just make sure you put it in with the elbow off to ensure it is a smooth airflow, not to far up or down.

I still want to move my MAF infront of the TB like the Vette does.

In all my tuning, I did set up one on losely based on the SS Z28. This is my favorite tune yet. And the intake growl is much improved! It really pulls much harder now than any tune yet. And the first base is still installed.

If you like to tune your LT1, take a look at it, it is a very different approach, more old school. You can tell it isn't GM's typical handywork.... Part throttle is awesome!

I really need to get do a K&N & 1LE elbow combo...

In the meantime, may experiment with the el-cheapo hockey puck method just to see what the difference in sound is with only the homeplate piece removed.

This car is almost too quiet, right now, especially when it comes to any engine/exhaust sound, so a little bit more growl is welcome.

Well, right now (or at least I think, based on how it was a few weeks ago) the car is a bit sluggish and has very little of any sound to it unless really pushed.

I'd like to make it a bit more lively and also a bit better sounding, but without a lot of new parts and mods. Just little stuff, like intake, etc.

But I'm most curious right now just to try the hockey puck thing, only to see if the sound is any different without the big extra air box on there.

Each of the 2 resonators attacks a certain sound freq. I forget which is which, but someone did post them once. Pulling the home plate I like the sound, with the first base removed, it is a bit loud for my taste, and my latest tune really has made it sound healthier.

(I'll share the .bin if anyone wants to try it and just PM me, it is setup for 3.42's, 235 70 15's, HD shift patterns with Corvette pressures, which are suprisingly similar to the V4P pressures, and a bit agressive timing for E85, which I haven't fully tested with gasoline with yet)

I'm doing the hockey puck too. Just make sure you put it in with the elbow off to ensure it is a smooth airflow, not to far up or down.

I still want to move my MAF infront of the TB like the Vette does.

I can't remember where I read it but someone tried that with an LT1 and actually LOST power. It surprised me. I would've thought it would be better with the MAF right by the TB but it wasn't. Damn, I wish I could remember where I saw that.

Anyone know, by chance, what the difference (if there is one) in sound is like by just removing the homeplate and no other change?

I've heard some say it just lets more roar, while others say it gave a funny idle sound that they had to get used to.

The first base deals with the lower freq sounds, the home plate higher. So it will have a bit higher pitch, not at all annoying or obnoxious for a Cadillac to be heard with. I think personally, removing the first base makes it much louder, enough that the guy in the car next to you that you are racing will know that you have it removed.

Katshot, if you find it, I would like to read it.

My thoughts are on it, that the whole assy is under the same pressure, so I can't see it gaining or losing hp unless the actual airflow in the resonator is impeded, which after seeing my MAP pressure readings and my MAF readings, I see NO restriction with the resonator, MAF or air cleaner (stock, with a 3 1.5" holes drilled in it). I was pondering swapping my wife's Vortec MAF in (the larger Vette/Z28/TA size), but there is NO airflow gains by doing it from what I can see. I may try it later on to prove my theory, but for now, I am concentrating on the E85 program.

I am seeing peak airflow around 4600-5600 rpm typically, 227 gm/sec @ 10C @ 0.93 MAP reading (it peaks just before this at 0.97 MAP @ 5300 rpm, (at least on this run, which was at 5425 rpm), then it drops off a little bit, which is at redline. So I honestly don't feel there is any restrictions to really deal with. In comparisson, my friends LS1 Z28 sees around 255 gm/sec stock at peak air flow. Those LS1's flow!

I can't see how anyone can determine that home plate is a restriction at all. Maybe a slight disturbance, but that is all. I just like having it off of there.