: Clicking noise



hemhem71
01-09-04, 12:40 AM
I have a 95 seville everytime I take off or accellerat it a little more than usual it clicks like if the c-v joints were going out but Ive checked them there in good shape.And if anyone knows where I can get a right tail light and a shift knob let me know.Thanks

ellisss
01-09-04, 01:24 AM
I have a 95 seville everytime I take off or accellerat it a little more than usual it clicks like if the c-v joints were going out but Ive checked them there in good shape.
How did you check the axles and c/v joints?

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Ellisss.

hemhem71
01-09-04, 04:25 PM
took off the c-v boot

Elvis
01-09-04, 07:08 PM
If it's CV joints, the problem should be more severe if the wheel is turned in one direction or the other.

If it clicks the same when you're pointed in a straight line, I would think you could rule out the CV joints.

ellisss
01-10-04, 02:06 AM
took off the c-v boot
Before I go on... I need to say that axle and joint failure on the Northstar drivetrain is highly unlikely, unless the boot is (or was) torn and not replaced quickly. I have only seen two cases of outer joint failure in all my years working with Northstar Cadillacs.

Instead of doing the most of the checks I'm about to post, you should (in my opinion) take the suggestion of Elvis. If the noise is louder or more prominent when the wheel is turned in either direction while driving, you can assume the outer joint is failing. Steps 1 and 2 below are simple, quick checks that can be done with no heavy disassembly

Okay, aside from just looking inside the boot...

1. The grease that was in there should not have any kind of 'shimmering' quality to it. In other words, no powdered metal. Boot failure with the secondary problem of a worn joint is very rare on the Northstar powertrain. The 4T80E transaxle uses extremely heavy-duty axles and joints. The weak point is the splines on the axle, not inside the joint. Continuing...

2. Deformation of the metal components inside the joint can sometimes not lead to metal turning into powder, but will (rarely) warp, crush, or waddle (ream) the cages that the balls ride in. This is mostly found in the outside joint... but I'm assuming you also looked inside of the inside joint. (inside c/v joint failure is a practical impossibility.)

2a. With the outer joint removed from the hub abd bearing assembly (behind the brake rotor), you should be able to easily push and pull the axle shaft and see it extend from and retract into the inner joint. This allows for axle extension due to normal front suspension movement. During this movement, you shouldn't feel any popping or undue resistance. If you don't have (or don't want to) do the necessary disassembly to check this, then that's okay. Remember, inner joint failures are rare.

3. With the axle, joints, and boots assembled and installed on the vehicle, firmly grasp the axle at the midpoint, and with your other hand rotate the tire back and forth about 1/2 inch. Look at the outer joint and the axle shaft where it enters the boot. There should be no free play whatsoever. A bad thing would be for you to see the outer joint moving while the axle shaft remains motionless. If there is movement, then I suggest you measure it and be absolutely sure... as it's an indication of outer joint failure.

4. With your hand still on the axle at it's midpoint... try to move the shaft vertically (up and down). There should still be no movement whatsoever. If there is, it's probably a case of worn splines on the male end of the shaft. The same test can be done for the shaft where it enters the inside joint. (again, failures at the inside joint are rare.)

5. Grab the inside joint and firmly try to move it up, down, and side-to-side. There should be a small (on the order of a couple of hundredths of an inch) amount of play. Look at the inner axle seal (on the transaxle)... there shoudn't be any fliud leaking. A problem here is an indication of bushing failure in the transaxle, or even possibly something more sinister. I don't believe there would be any noise associated with this.

If you (or anyone else) has recently priced an axle or joint assembly from a Cadillac dealer... can you believe how expensive they are? Over $1000 for a complete axle, over $500 for an outer joint kit. Wow. :cookoo:

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Ellisss

hemhem71
01-12-04, 09:12 PM
Well I i might have bad engine mount cause I saw the plastic on the firewall broken the sound comes from inside the dash and i just replaced the dog bone mounts and if I floor it anywhere from 40-65 I can still hear it clicking.

BeelzeBob
01-12-04, 11:07 PM
Well I i might have bad engine mount cause I saw the plastic on the firewall broken the sound comes from inside the dash and i just replaced the dog bone mounts and if I floor it anywhere from 40-65 I can still hear it clicking.

The clicking you describe could be an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak can have a very metallic, hard sound to it...just like the click of a hard part failing.

Try doing a "power brake" maneuver at varying throttle openings to see if you can duplicate the noise. Hold the brakes firmly and put the transmission in drive. Crowd the throttle to different loads against the torque converter (20-30 seconds of this at a time cannot hurt anything) and listen to see if the noise comes and goes with the load/throttle. If so, you should be able to listen around under the car and under the hood while doing this to pinpoint the noise.

If the motor mounts are weak/torn/failed and the motor can move more than normal under load then the possibility of an exhaust leak is very very likely. I would look at the joint from the take down pipe to the cat. conv. first. That is just in front of the firewall/dash where you describe the noise coming from.

Infamous Lac
01-14-04, 11:59 PM
My car does the exact same clicking, only when the trottle is press more than a 1/4 way and from a dead stop. I don't know what it is always done it.

dansace
01-15-04, 12:48 AM
My car does the same thing-only when I am turning from a dead stop and give it more than 1/4 throttle.

hemhem71
02-06-04, 06:45 PM
Well I found the front engine mount was bad I held down the brake and gas and the engine moved towards the fire wall about 3-4 inches and I noticed the plastic on right side of the firewall was cracked pretty bad