: 98 Catera Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement - Cranks Won't Start

03-10-06, 12:35 AM
The procedure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) is below with pictures - you can skip these first sections if you choose, its mostly my ranting.

My Symptoms: Here’s what my car did. The problem started with occasionally taking longer cranking before it would start. Then it sometimes would crank, but not start at all after it had been running (or sometimes start with alot of cranking). I could wait 5 minutes, 30 minutes, an hour, or overnight and it would start – it seemed to be random on when it did it and how long I had to wait. This went on for a couple months, with it happening more severely and more frequently, but still random and intermittent. Then one night after work, it wouldn’t start at lunch. When I went to leave in the evening it still wouldn’t start. I tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, but that didn’t work. Next morning, still no start. Had it towed to the dealer, they replaced the fuel pump ($800!!! I’ll rant about this in a minute). The car ran fine for almost two weeks, and then started the same symptoms. This time it only took a few more weeks before it wouldn’t start at all. This time it was at home. It was getting no spark. I disconnected the battery and charged it and when I reconnected, it started right up. After one day of driving, it again wouldn’t start at home. After checking for fuel (fuel pump was working) and spark (no spark) and trying other stuff, the battery was low. I disconnected the battery and charged it and it started. So I was thinking that disconnecting the battery was resetting something, so I drove it to work. It wouldn’t start – I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, then an hour, then overnight while charging the battery, and still crank but no start. I had it towed home. I installed a new Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and it started right up and has been fine for almost 2 weeks now. Some other people had there CPS cause the car to die while driving, or go out all of a sudden. Mine apparently was intermittent for several months. And its important to note that it always cranked normally, and the engine light never came on. And when it did start, it always ran perfectly fine – this was the most confusing to me and the reason this dragged on for so long.

About the Cadillac Dealer Shop (a certain, unnamed dealer shop on the north side of Indianapolis...Tutwiler...oh, did I say that out loud?): So from my story above, I had it towed to them and they determined that it was the fuel pump. I asked if they scanned it – they said they had and that it had no codes. I asked how they knew it was the fuel pump – they said that when they hit the fuel tank with a rubber mallet while cranking the car, they could hear the pump spin up for a second. Ok, that sounds reasonable. I took them at their word and coughed up the $800 bucks – I would have attempted this, but my wife was eight and a half months pregnant and I wanted my car to be ready for THE CALL – and I didn’t really have time to mess with it. So I’m sure its possible that the fuel pump and CPS were going out at the exact same time. And the first no start was caused by fuel pump and the subsequent no starts were caused by the CPS – and they just happened to have the exact same intermittent symptoms... yeah, right. OR maybe the dealer just suspected an intermittent pump and threw one on. Even if the pump was bad (and I doubt that it actually was) they still did a poor job diagnosing the problem. The CPS is a common problem on Cateras with these symptoms. The justification for the astronomical labor rates is proper equipment, training and experience to work on Cadillacs. They obviously didn’t have any of this in my case since my problem was mis-diagnosed, or at the very least, incompletely diagnosed (assuming the fuel pump was bad). I thought I was paying for premium service – what I got was royally screwed. Oh, but they do have a “free car wash with service” policy, so I did get my car washed – it only cost me $800. Fantastic. Next time I’ll take my chances with a random mechanic – I may still get screwed, but at least it won’t cost as much.

A quick note about the Service Manuals for anyone that is considering buying them: I’m a novice mechanic, so maybe its just me – but the service manuals don’t seem to be as useful as I thought they would be. The diagrams are often useless – It took me over an hour of looking at the CPS connector diagram and staring at the engine from every possible angle before I found it. And the procedure doesn’t tell you to remove the wiper arms or vent; I don’t see how you could possibly get to the connector without removing them. The index of the manual does not even come close to listing all relevant sections that pertain to the part\term you are looking up. There is alot of very useful info, but its difficult to find and sometimes incomplete.

Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

[See picture 1]
The first step is to remove the windshield wiper arms. A tip that I thought of too late: use tape on the windshield to mark the angle at which the arms are attached. Remove the round plastic cap, then the nut from each arm. The arm is wedged onto the cone shaped bolt, so you have to use some force to work it loose. The manual says to - grip the arm with both hands and use a rocking motion - whatever that means. Use some force and pull the arm back and forth in the direction that the windshield wiper would normally move. Eventually it will break loose and move pretty freely. You then have to relieve the tension from the spring-loaded hinge on the arm to be able to lift it off the bolt. You'll figure it out. Make sure to remove the round foam-rubber rings that are under the arms. You don’t want to knock one off and drop it down into the engine compartment and then into a hole in the frame, never to be seen again... not that that happened to me or anything. Tip: use a rag or towel to keep the arm from rubbing/banging against the hood.

[See picture 2]
Next remove the plastic vent cover at the base of the windshield. There are about 5 plastic screws under the rubber seal at the bottom of the windshield. The picture shows one of these screws in the locked position. Rotate the screw 90 degrees to unlock it and it pulls straight out. Use needle nose pliers (or whatever) and pull these screws out - otherwise you'll break half of them when you pull the vent cover off. There's one additional screw on the driver’s side that holds the vent cover to the car body. The driver's side of the vent cover should now be able to be removed - there's about a 2-foot section on the passenger's side that is separate and doesn't have to be removed.

[See picture 3]
With the vent cover removed, you should be able to dig behind the engine and find the CPS connector, but just barely. Look at the picture below.

[See picture 4]
The big connector in the middle was in my way, so I disconnected it and pulled the two ends out of the way. Look at the next picture and you can see the two connector ends pulled out of the way.

[See picture 5]
The CPS sensor is attached to the back of the aluminum bracket In the middle of the picture. It takes a little work to get the clip off the metal bracket, and then get the clip and CPS connector to a position you can unclip them.

If you’re unsure about whether the CPS is the problem, you can try this (I thought of this too late, but you can learn from my mistake). Just drop the new sensor down the back/side of the engine, attach it to the engine, and plug in the new sensor. If the car starts, you can remove the old sensor and route the new sensor along a more permanent route. If it doesn’t start, something else is the problem.

To remove the old sensor, unbolt it from the engine block. The sensor is right next to the oil filter, is sort of egg shaped (round, but wider on one side than the other) and held on by one bolt. If you get the car on jack stands or ramps, you should be able to easily see the oil filter and CPS by getting under the car right behind the driver’s side tire.

An aluminum heat-shield sleeve covers the first section of the CPS wire. The original routing of the wire seems to pinch the sleeve between the oil cooler lines and the engine block. This makes removing the old wire a bit difficult. Here’s what worked for me. Once you pull the sensor off the car, twist the sensor so that the wire twists and breaks free from the heat shield. Then cut the wire at the sensor end. Next, pull the connector end to pull the wire free from the car. I had to twist the connector end as I pulled to get it to come loose. And the shield didn’t come out, just the wire – I don’t lose any sleep over having the empty shield still in there.

[See picture 6]
Next you have to route the new CPS wire. You can see the general path from the stick in the picture. I placed my work light on the top of the engine at the back, then got under the car and looked up to be able to see the general path. From under the car, I ran the stick up the back of the engine and out the top. I then taped one end of a piece of speaker wire (that was a little longer than the CPS wire) to the end of the stick and secured the other end of the wire to the windshield wiper arm. I pulled the stick down and used the speaker wire to figure out my path. Make sure the final path of the CPS wire stays clear of the exhaust manifold – I also tried to avoid the coils as much as possible to minimize signal interference (I don’t know if this is a big deal or not). Then I attached the sensor connector to the wire end under the car and pulled it up and plugged it in. Make sure the CPS wire is routed where you want it and install the sensor and bolt it in. (-Bonus Question: what’s wrong with the picture above – besides the piece of wood sticking out the top of the engine of course?)

Install everything in reverse order – reattach the CPS connector to the clip and attach to the bracket – reconnect the big connector that was in the way – install the vent cover (this can be a bit tricky to get aligned) – install the windshield wiper arms (use the tape marks to line up the arms, or make a rough guess like I had to do) – fire this bad boy up!

03-10-06, 12:39 AM
I couldn't get the pictures inline with the text like I had in the word doc I created - I guess this will do.

There were alot of people asking about Crank sensor location and replacement. Hopefully my sharing this will help a few people, just like this forum has helped me out of a bind - and most likely future binds.

I found a new CPS on ebay for $40 by the way - Autozone could order it and have it in 2 days for $70.

03-10-06, 09:54 AM
Good post.i would agree with you on service manuals they are not that useful the other day i was looking for illustration on changing the valve cover gaskets and i couldnt find any or may be i missed a page or two :bigroll:

03-10-06, 12:06 PM
My valve cover gaskets are just starting to leak - I guess I'll have to find somewhere else to get the procedure from - there may have been a post on here about it - maybe in the tech forum.

03-10-06, 01:12 PM
Not meaning to sideline this thread, but I have a gasket question: I am seaping oil into the spark plug areas around the coils..... is this the infamous valve cover gasket leak?



03-10-06, 02:07 PM
Thats what they say - there's quite a few posts about it on this forum. If its bad enough, it is said to cause spark plug fouling and damage the plug wire boot.

05-28-06, 11:03 PM
Document ID# 193643
1998 Cadillac Catera


Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement
Removal Procedure


Disconnect the wiring harness from the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor (1).
Remove the A/C Low Pressure line bracket.
Remove the fastening bolt for the CMP sensor.
Remove the CMP sensor and the O-ring seal from the camshaft cover.
Installation Procedure


Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the CMP sensor (1) and the camshaft cover.
Install the CMP sensor with a new O-ring seal into the camshaft cover.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the fastening bolt for the CMP sensor.

Tighten the bolt to 8 N·m (6 lb ft).

Install the A/C Low Pressure line bracket.
Connect the wiring harness to the CMP sensor. Ensure the correct cable routing.

Document ID# 193643
1998 Cadillac Catera

07-10-06, 03:48 AM
I thought I was going to have to kill the mechanic who ran the cps sensor wire in my catera, but it sounds like it is routed incorrectly from the factory. Thank god I found this thread because I was about to pull my hair out! Thanks sirmqc!

Marks DTM Calib
12-20-06, 09:29 AM
Don't route the cranks sensor wire in this manner.....the failure route cause is down to the oil cooler lines heating the cable and causing fractures.

The best route is to route it around the side of the engine bay near the ABS modulator, this avoids the exhaust and hot rear of the engine. Cable tie the wire to avoid damage.

Note also, the cam sensor is bomb proof!

And if you have leaking camcover gaskets then the chances are the engine breathers are probably blocked....

For details on camcover gasket renewal, see here:

Cam cover gasket renewal (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152564281)

01-07-07, 08:09 PM
My friend just went through the identical experience with his Catera: same symptoms, when it starts the car runs fine, tow to garage, rubber mallet to the gas tank, new pump for $800, same problems, OBD reports CPS fault. Going in for new CPS tomorrow, mechanics dont want to work on it. Thanks for helping me help him. Now I need to fix the intermittent climate control on my Ford Taurus.

03-14-07, 07:45 PM

I had the same symptoms as you described. I was looking for this post to reply to it, but ended up creating a new thread to describe that I STILL have the issue (see the post, "Just Bought CPS, Still Won't Crank).

Your block of instructions were awesome!! I had no problems installing the CPS on my '99 Cat. Unfortunately, the symptoms returned about five hours later while at the petrol station. Any other suggestions? Thanks.

03-23-07, 07:40 PM
I found that the whole job was allot easier after I dropped the exhaust on the drivers side for ease of access to the CPS, without dropping it you will have to have some pretty small hands and allot of patience. I had photo's but they were lost when my computer crashed the other day:eek: If you do drop the exhaust you can count on the bolts behind the cat breaking off, both of mine did and I had to drill them out and use a bolt and nut instead.

03-24-07, 12:09 PM
I still had these pictures stored on my digital camera after my computer crashed.
These pictures will hopefully give you a little clearer perspective on where the sensor is and how to get to it.

Link... http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2184514/6

05-20-07, 09:01 AM
I "just" (5-19-07) bought a 97 Catera, I almost didn't after reading here about all the problems with the car but the previous 2 owners have all ready gone through what I hope is most of the hard times... I think I got it for a good price because it has, guess what, a miss.. They last owner put in about $1000 trying to fix it, no luck... When I took it for a test drive I drove right over to Autozone and had them scan it... Can up with 2 codes - 336 which is the CPS and 302 which is a miss at the number 2 cylinder, I think (no I hope) that the 302 is because of the CPS problem... I was trying to figure out where the CPS was, WOW is it tight in that engine compartment... I'm sure glad that I kept reading these posts.. Thanks for the info above, as a new owner I REALLY APPRECIATE being able to learn from everyone here...

Po Pimp
05-27-07, 07:12 PM
Bonus question.

I believe you are missing a bracket on the back left side of the manifold that holds some wires.

Good write up by the way. Unfortunately I had to use it for guidances as my Catera did not want to start.

07-11-07, 01:01 PM
Thank, this post just saved me a bit of cash. Bought my 2001 Catera in 2003 for $12,000 with 19,000 miles on it. I wa working as a used car saleman for a bit when I first retired from the USAF awaiting test dates for my current job. A couple of the guys I worked with were retired auto builders that worked for Cadillac and they swore up and down that the Catera was one of the best cars Cadillac ever built. Honestly, I can't complain as I've had only a few problems and I do love the car.

I did experience a few problems over the past 3 1/2 years. A few months after buying the car the check engine light started coming on for a few weeks at a time. I was having battery issues, which I solved, and at first attributed the light to this. After fixing the battery issue, the check engine light was still coming on so I took it to the dealer (at this time it was under factory warantee) and they told me they were getting a bad code and could not determine the problem. I asked what they ment by a bad code and was told that the code they were getting was for contaminated fuel. Ok, stuff happens and not all fuel vendors sell good gas, but he then went on to say that there is no sensor on the Catera that makes this determination, so it must be a bad code. I had the car in at the dealer 3 times over the next 2 years trying to solve this and finally just drove with the dang light on all the time. Every year prior to emmissions testing I would have to pull the negative terminal to clear the computer then drive for 50 miles to get it to pass the inspection. This year however, it would not pass.

I dreaded taking it back to the dealer as I was pretty sure by now they were clueless so I took it to a local mechanic recomended by some co-workers. I stopped by after work (I work graveyard shift) and he told me to bring back the next morning and that he would research the problem on the internet. Dropped the car off and he called me at noon to tell me it was the mass air flow sensor and I could pick the car up at 5pm. He charged me $230 and it passed inspection without a hitch.

That last few weeks I've been noticing that when I go to start the car after work that sometimes I would have to crank it twice to start. We've had a ton of rain lately and I thought it may be a problem with humidity until one morning it would not start. I oulled up this site and read this thread and the issue you desrcibed was exactly was I was experiencing. It would work fine for a few days then would not start. The next morning it would start just fine.

Well I called O'Rielly auto parts and they had a new CPS for me that same day for $34.99. Put it in this morning, thanks to the wonderful instructions here and it seems to be working just fine. I let you all know if it doesn't. Thanks!

07-12-07, 09:06 AM
A couple of the guys I worked with were retired auto builders that worked for Cadillac and they swore up and down that the Catera was one of the best cars Cadillac ever built.

off topic i know but seems odd that Cadillac Mechanics think its the best caddy ever and caddy didnt even build it...
i would think they would know that...if they dont then id say your listenin to the wrong people


08-24-07, 10:59 AM
Hey...I gave a very concise description of this fix a while back. Do a search under my name and you'll find it.

09-24-07, 05:00 AM
My Cady Catera 1998 has RPM about 450-500 all the time and no any lights like check engine or somthing,no problems with running and starting at all,just low RPM when you donít drive. I ran diagnostics at the shop and they found out that crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced and they wanted 400$ for that. So yesterday I replaced crankshaft position censor like I red on this forum. It was not so hard I spent more time to get a good one from another Cady ( i got used one) then to put it on mine. So as a result- NOTHING!!! A same thing!!! 450-500 RPM with another crankshaft! How I understand if crankshaft died it means no start engine ( like usually) and in my case I might have no good crankshaft sensor but I can't bealive that another one is a same! Cuz Iím preatty shure that another one was good cuz I know that car was running greate. So my question is whatís a main reason of it? I dano what I need to do nowÖAny ideas???:bonkers:

Cadi Cat
09-25-07, 09:12 PM
That's normal idle for these cars, sometimes mine dips lower than that if it's been running for a while.

09-26-07, 05:22 AM
That's normal idle for these cars, sometimes mine dips lower than that if it's been running for a while.

Truly i'd say that its hard to belive that its normal idle for these cars becose the engine shakes too much, and also when i turn A/C on ...oh man it shakes all inside and even my rear passengers on the back seats really feel that...

Furthermore my brother in low had a same car and i was driving it and i can say it was a big difference and it had idle about 800-900 RPM
And also i got diagnostics at the shop and they found out that crankshaft position sensor ...


10-03-07, 06:20 PM
anyway thanks for advice

Cadi Cat
10-03-07, 08:57 PM
well mine purrs at between 375 and 500 smoothly. Maybe the earlier models are a little different. I drive a 2000. Had my sensor replaced also but didn't have any early warning symptoms. It just died, cruising along. No engine light... nothing!

10-04-07, 10:49 PM
You know what? I'd say that it's not normal,you know,it's not normal.I really don't like this. If the engine has so low RPMs it means that it has hard capacity on it,espesially when you turn on A/C,the ligths, the radio and something else...you know what i mean don't you? Thats no good for ur engine... But i'm not gona live it this way,you know. I wonna find the problem and i hope i will. i gonna replace as much parts as i can to find out what's going on with my car.I'll be work on it. i'll tell you how much i'll got done and what i did for that. I'm going to replace DIS-module tomorrow and after that we'll see...

10-11-07, 01:55 AM
The bonus question: There is hose dangling that is not connected to anything. I have the same thing now after changing my sensor. (The car just stopped running on the highway was my symptom. I got a code reader and it said bad sensor). Where did that hose go? I can't find anything to connect it to.

10-11-07, 10:27 AM
It depens on wthat kind of hose you found. I found a black hose and it was not connected to anything .I spent mine time to find what's going on but i couln't find anything. I asked another people and you know what? I found out that it was no problem. This hose just needs to be disconnected because it's like pressure line for the ATF fluid and it goes from the top of the tranny. So it all good in there and i don't worry about this anymore

10-13-07, 02:09 PM
I was hoping it was some kind of atmosphere vent. I sprayed some carb cleaner around the area to see if it raised the idle (a standard vacuum leak check) and there was no change.

12-12-07, 03:02 AM
I cleaned my injectors in a shop. They didn’t take them of they just put like an av thing inside and put chemicals in there to clean it up, but after that nothing changed...

01-02-08, 12:02 AM
I had the same symptoms - the car would start and run perfectly, then die while driving, or fail to start on several long cranks, then kick right over. It was the CPS. I had the car at my local mechanic for a week and he couldn't figure out what was wrong. I checked this forum and then my dealer replaced after I told them what it was.

it's a major and totally incompacitating inconvenience.

03-29-08, 05:56 PM
Perfect symptom description...Perfect connector and CPS location pix....Found sensor at a local in-stock Mom-and-Pop parts place for $45...Auto=Zone and Murray's were both $85....ALSO...Murrays loaned me the "Mac Tool? to diagnose the problem throught he OBD2 connector..for FREE...
Thanx Agian....Problem fixed for less than $50..Not including the $150 towing...
Final Comment....Why in the world was the "Check Engine" light not programed to illuminate?

03-31-08, 10:52 PM
Thanks to SIRMQC for the post on the crankshaft position sensor, his sage advise just saved me $1400. Own a 2001 Catera with 60+K miles. I've been through all the horror stories of buying new tires every 6 months because of uneven tire wear, $4500 to fix the AC and others. It got to the point that I was telling the Cadillac folks what the problems were. Anyway the other day I'm driving down the interstate at 70+ when the car dies. Had it towed to the local shop and they thought it was a fuel pump relay. Car ran for about 45 minutes then quite. They gave up so had it towed to Cadillac dealership. Prognosis was bad fuel pump, $1400 dollars to replace. I read SIRMQCs post and gambeled it was the CPS and replaced it myself. Drove the car today and it appears fine. It is an easy fix as long as you don't try to route it behind the oil cooler lines which is what I believe causes this problem to begin with. I followed the advise of others and tied it off away from the exhaust manifold and just cut the connector off one end of the old one and pulled it out.

04-04-08, 05:26 PM
Thought I would add my story to this thread as way of saying thanks. The information here solved my problem.

Well, it finally happened to me. I have never been afraid to jump in my Cat and ripoff a 400 mile day. Now I'm not so confident. Last night I went out for a bite and she dies while backing out of the parking spot. When I started her in the garage she stalled. I thought I just hadn't kept the starter on long enough. The engine caught quickly the second time and off we went. There were a few stops before the diner and she started fine each time.

When she did die there was no CEL but the Sport light (s inside a cog) was flashing. I have a ScanGauge installed and immediately checked for codes. There were none. Still, from hanging out here and learning, I'm sure it was the CPS. The engine would crank strongly. I replaced the battery 2 months ago for an unrelated reason so I'm sure it wasn't that. I pushed the car back into the spot and checked under the hood for anything obvious. Not knowing which cable was the CPS I wiggled as many as I could. After 15 minutes I tried again and she fired right up. The Sport light was still flashing.

Not wanting to tempt fate and try a restart I headed for home. The transmission was in limp-home mode and engaged only 3rd & 4th gears. Highway performance was normal. Once back in my garage I shut her off and back on again. The engine started fine, this time with no flashing Sport light. I took a lap around the neighborhood and everything was back to normal. I'll have my local mechanic change it. I know it's an easy job but it's too cold for me to lay on an unheated garage's floor. I'm due for a car inspection and oil change. The sensor mounts next to the oil filter so while the car is up on the lift he can change it easily.

I hope my snap diagnosis is correct but I'll be renewing my AAA membership just in case. One more thing. As I checked old posts for CPS info I found a reference to the Fuel Cap Alarm being related to the CPS. I have been seeing the FCA intermittently for at least 6 months. I can't say for sure but if you get the Fuel Cap Alarm it could be a warning sign of a future CPS failure.


I wanted to put an ending to this story. I just finished an 900 mile weekend with my new Crankshaft Position Sensor and the engine never skipped a beat. It started every time. No stalling. No codes. Nothing. Thanks to the information here I was able to save myself the frustration of dealing with clueless service techs. I ordered the part, handed it to the service manager, they installed it, and that was that. I was a little nervous during the first 30 miles of test drives before the weekend trip but after that I stopped staring at the gauges. Except for the speeding ticket I got (81 in a 65 zone) it was an uneventful trip.

It just turned 68,000 miles this weekend. After rooting around the engine and tracing the CPS cable I don't think the sensor actually wears out. It's the cable itself that's the problem. It passes very close to the left hand exhaust pipe and the oil cooler lines. I think the heat damages the sheathing (either melts it or cracks it) and shorts the sensor leads. I forgot to ask for the old part so I don't know which. Even though the cable has heat shielding, the farther away from the those heat sources the better.

GM/ACDelco PN= 90494182
BOSCH PN= 0261210


04-26-08, 07:09 PM
My 2001 sport just had similar symptoms, cranks but doesn't catch.
Took it to my local Caddie dealer, told them I wanted the CPS replaced and the cable rerouted.
CPS & cable cost (cdn)$ 76.95 and labor to install $204.00
Car is back to running brilliantly.....
Many thanks!

Joe Dill
04-30-08, 02:34 PM
Can I disconnect the CPS at the connection junction, spin the engine, and check for a reading with a volt meter to determine if the CPS is working or not without removing it from the engine?


Joe Dill

05-07-08, 10:55 AM
I'm not certain, but I don't think so. From what I understand - the CPS sensor detects one section of the crank shaft as it rotates. Each time this section rotates past the sensor, it sends a signal. So as you crank, the signal will go on and off. I'm not sure if your voltmeter will be quick enough to pick this up.

BUT... no reason not to give it a try. If you suspect thats the problem, you'll have to get to the connector anyway to change it - you might as well take 5 minutes to try this before you change it out.

lee van dam
07-16-08, 09:47 PM
A short while back someone posted about a cps problem and about buying one for a real good price, do anyone know where this might be, I ,mean the store or the parts dept. I would like to locate one for my 01.
Thanks.... Lee

07-16-08, 10:25 PM
GM/ACDelco PN= 90494182



lee van dam
07-17-08, 06:00 PM
Hey there.... I am going to replace the heater valve on my 01 and wonder if it would be a good time to also replace the crankshaft sensor at the same time, Mine is Ok car is fine, but I have been heariang so much about the sensor I feel it might be a precaution to replace it while I am under the hood

So where is it located and is it a hard job ( for a shade tree teck.) so someone please advise... thank you.... Lee ( need the info asap. thanks )again

Texas Frank
08-20-08, 07:55 AM
This is an extremely well designed/built car from an engineering stand point. Most likely the German Opel side of Cadillac which did the building that you object to and or take issue with. Unfortunately most dealerships failed to train their employees as they do overseas to work on a Catera.

08-31-08, 01:25 PM
I have a 97, I feel they are a well built car, but of course you definitely have to take care of them (just as any vehicle). Unfortunately, I bought mine 4 years ago for $13,000, 3 months after purchase, oil pump failure caused a $8,000 (used) engine to be installed. They wanted $12,000 to (try) and rebuild the old (rediculous!). Once installed, has been great until a month ago. Same symptoms, running along nicely, then dies with no warning. Sit on the side of the road, let it cool, fires right up, drive until good operating temperature, dies again. Frustrating to say the least. I thought it may be some type of temperature sensor for the fan because it seemed to die just before (or maybe just exactly when) the fan was to turn on to cool.

Now that I see that others are having the same problem with the CPS, I will try that first. I will post my findings.

p.s. Does everyone else have the same issues with the Cadillac dealers?
You know, they don't seem to want to help you out with your Catera?
They almost look disgusted when you mention the name. And, what is worse, I find that GM should be ashamed of the rates associated with Cadillacs. Obviously they think that if you own a Cadillac, you must be made of money. I end up doing everything myself because I can not justify the costs they want to fix, or even guess what your problem is. Ok, i'm going, just getting angry again.

09-20-08, 03:41 AM
Another Cadillac repaird due to this post. My Catera went quick. It only hard started a couple times & then just quit starting. Something popped into my head that reminded me of this post. I re-read it & sure enough, that's what I was having. No amount of waiting or jiggling wires helped. Searched around & sure enough, O'Reilly auto parts was the only place that had it in stock locally & had the best price to boot ($39.99).

I suspect that I could have done this without removing the wipers & cowl, but it did make it much easier to see what was going on.

For those who aren't aware, the actual sensor is located just below the oil filter (under the car). This post is mostly dealing with where the connector end is (on top of the engine by the four vaccume hoses that exit the rear of the intake). If you were quick, I would say that it wouldn't take more than 1/2 an hour to 1 hour to do this. I just unsnapped the connector, unscrewed the sensor (make sure you have a torx socket) & pulled from the sensor end. The connector pulled all the way down with a few minor snaggs. Also, the "screws" under the rubber molding by the windshield aren't actually screws. You just need to turn them about 1/4 turn to loosen them in their hole. Be careful not to break them (4 of mine already were from the previous owner) because they are plastic.

01-29-09, 08:25 PM
GM/ACDelco PN= 90494182

RockAuto . com...................$27
GMPartsDirect . com.............$26


I'm working on mine and I've noticed that the replacement part only has 3 pins. The original has 4 pins, so obviously the replacement doesn't fit into the female socket. I ordered from rockauto and the AC Delco PN matches, any ideas?

01-30-09, 10:17 AM
I'm working on mine and I've noticed that the replacement part only has 3 pins. The original has 4 pins, so obviously the replacement doesn't fit into the female socket. I ordered from rockauto and the AC Delco PN matches, any ideas?

Got mine @ O'Reilley Autoparts, but it plugged right in.

05-03-09, 11:29 PM
Replaced cps sensor but it still does not start

05-03-09, 11:31 PM
Re: 98 Catera

Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor But it still does not start.

Any advice?

05-17-09, 12:47 PM
After having the car sit for almost 9 months because I just couldn't look at it anymore (because it just wouldn't keep running once operating temp was reached). I decided to go out and purchase a CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor), paid $110 CAD for it, they had lots in stock because they said it was a common problem. I took almost 4 hours from start to finish, but ya baby! It has been running, and running and running without a hitch now for the past month. When I pulled the old one out, the wires had been pinched in the heat shield, when it got too hot everything expanded and shorted the sensor, causing the car to shut down. Re-routed the new one around the problem area, and kaabam! Life is good again. Once I purchased the CPS, that is finally when I got some answers from the dealership on the problem, not before, go figure, if they figure you actually may know the problem already, they are willing to help, otherwise, they will let you squirm and pay big bucks on diagnostics!!! Not very nice I would say, would you?

05-18-09, 03:11 PM
Yeah, so after running beautifully for over a year, that damn CPS goes on me...A bullet that I though I was going to be able to dodge reared its ugly head. lol. I guess my suspension upgrade will have to be put on the back burner. So the Cat will be sitting for the next couple of days while I wait for GM to bring the part in $85 is not bad. I may try napa to see if I can get it sooner. So for anyone thats done this themselves. Is it easier to access the sensor from the side or sliding under from the front?

05-19-09, 07:10 PM
Okay, so the CPS is in and tha Cat is purring. Owe it all to you guys, thanks a bunch!

06-22-09, 08:51 PM
Ok I have a similar problem except that i am getting intermittent spark. The car starts for 1-4 seconds and dies no spark. I have replaced the crank sensor and have no change in symptoms. Help please GOING CRAZY

06-22-09, 10:33 PM
I'm not 100% sure but I've heard Cam Shaft Sensor has similar symptoms. Only thing is, the sensor is 3 times the price of the Crank PS

06-23-09, 09:32 PM
Problem solved for catera. original problem was it would start for about 2 seconds and then die with no spark. problem was traced to transponder in key used spare key and problem solved

07-07-09, 04:27 PM
Hi guy's look I did all of that new cps new fuel pump nothing crank and crank no start and no fuel in EVAP could it be the relays Or the computer or shut off vavle I don't know where to begin or how HELP !!!:worship::worship::(

05-08-10, 03:22 AM
please Help I own a 99 catera ran great for 4 yrs but one day stopped at a store turned off when i cam out tried to start it back nada even when cold.. had a verry miner miss min. befor i stoped tho..ran ODB 2 on it last code was is Bank1 cyl. 1 Cam sensor error ..code right befor that was cyl 3 misfire..nada about the crank sensor tho.. have all ready had to replace valve cover gasgets $62.00 autozone not to hard...other mancanic said it would run with a bad cam sensor is this right???
it has fire at the plugs/coils and is getting gas injectors are working
He said it sounds like the intake mainafold Temp sensor Ty. with 98 up GM's sence i was getting fire at the coil pack's which the crank sensor controls the fire and gas. does it?
but it dident give that code..he said if it is way outa range it would make the timming to far advanced TO HOT or de advance TO cold to start. is this right?? could the intake Temp sensor advance the timming so far to cause the cam sensor make a code??? and the car not start at all..
The Cam sensor is 133.00 us please help..

05-08-10, 10:40 AM
please Help I own a 99 catera ran great for 4 yrs but one day stopped at a store turned off when i cam out tried to start it back nada even when cold.. had a verry miner miss min. befor i stoped tho..ran ODB 2 on it last code was is Bank1 cyl. 1 Cam sensor error ..code right befor that was cyl 3 misfire..nada about the crank sensor tho.. have all ready had to replace valve cover gasgets $62.00 autozone not to hard...other mancanic said it would run with a bad cam sensor is this right???
it has fire at the plugs/coils and is getting gas injectors are working
He said it sounds like the intake mainafold Temp sensor Ty. with 98 up GM's sence i was getting fire at the coil pack's which the crank sensor controls the fire and gas. does it?
but it dident give that code..he said if it is way outa range it would make the timming to far advanced TO HOT or de advance TO cold to start. is this right?? could the intake Temp sensor advance the timming so far to cause the cam sensor make a code??? and the car not start at all..
The Cam sensor is 133.00 us please help..

I would try starting a new post. You posted this to an old CPS thread. It could get lost in here.

05-14-10, 08:13 PM
I see my man Sirqmc is still pressing that stick teknique. Although it's a wonderful job with the pics an all. I'm goin to give you the sweet an dirty on that lil booger. Not sure but I think I posted this before. Anyway skip all the whoo haa an go center back of the engine, find the CPS conector, if you've got the new one in hand then you'll know which one it is. Disconnect it, jack up driver side of car enough to get under it, (always use jack stands under a car, SAFETY 1ST) Find the CPS just foward of the tranny in the housing (2 screws). Go back up top with your wires insulated with a heat sheild type of insulator connect it to the plug, drop it straight down the driver side of the engine it's going to come close to the exhaust pipe but try to run it where it won't be as close. Go back under the car plug in the CPS and you're done.
I like pretty too but I could never figure out how he got the stick through that ness of wires an such. 1 hour and done Lets roll

08-20-10, 04:12 PM
Okay it's now Aug 2010 and the 98 Cat has died 3 times in the Bama heat, going to swap out the CPS and we shall see what happens. Going to get the part now.

Edit: Got the Part from Advance, It is a BOSCH part which was a relief. So now i have worked through removal of wipers and the air duct thing. i can find the plug end of the CPS, but the business end...the sensor end is WAAAY down back behind the motor. and all those hoses and tubes. late now. Gonna let some sunlight help me in the morning.

Edit: Now Sat Morning, car up on stands, found and removed the old sensor (7mm hex wrench) , Just like he said go in behind the left front tire and it's an arms reach. Came back inside to give one last look at this routing this. The manifold is right there so avoiding that seems to make sense.

Edit: There is a long way betweenthe bottom of the engine and the top esp when looking from under the car on your back. I got the sensor installed but routing the wire and connector to the top is a challenge. keep losing landmarks. finally got the plug and wire routed, but this may be temporary installation due to proximity to exhaust manifold shroud, etc.

final edit for the day: got in plugged in and installed....turned over but no fire. gonna have to think this one through. Time to mow the lawn.

09-11-10, 01:19 PM
i ran a code reader and got the CPS code. CLeared the codes and got it again. Crank Position Sensor "A" circuit. i am going to reinstall this one.

10-13-10, 07:55 PM
Ok so it's now Mid October. WHen It wouldn't fire on cranking, i had it towed to the shop and explained where I had it in the repair process. The mechanic actually called me, (Glad I had 5 yrs of Spanish) and we had a good conversation about my removing the CPS and installing the new one. (including the 7mm wrench on the actual sensor). He called me back in a few hours and said "It's ready" I had connected the "old sensor" into the Harness, since i couldn't get it out. He swapped connected the new one and it cranked right up.

01-31-11, 10:50 PM
I am excited that I found this thread! It's encouraging to hear many of you completed this successfully. I'll be tackling this tomorrow and hopefully my 99 Catera will start right back up! Of course I have to recharge the battery as well, since I cranked and cranked away trying to figure out what the deal was...

Doctur J
03-27-11, 08:38 PM
Hello Sirmqc: I had the same problem with my Catera stopping on me after driving a couple of miles when it got hot. Know what I discovered? I first put a new fuel filter on it and thought that would solve the problem. WRONG! It started, but I looked at my exhaust and WATER was coming out like a faucet! I thought moisture was in the fuel and it shut off again in idle after 10 minutes of running. I took off the top gray manifold cover to install a [B]new fuel pressure regulator, which is located behind the manifold cover. I was a chore, but I also discovered that the fuel pressure regulator had a vacuum tube attached to it, which was broken off. A secret-just sit the manifold back on the mount without putting the screws back in it, start the car and notice how much pressure the air intake provides-you cannot lift the manifold cover up! With that, I knew a lot of cold air was getting into the system through this vacuum hose attached to the FPR causing condensation in the fuel.

I went to Auto Zone and got a rubber vacuum line and attached it to the new FPR (fuel pressure regulator) . Then in the front of the gray manifold cover underneath was a something that looked like it should be attached to the front of the vacuum line and attached the line to it. Also near the 4 vaccum line tree on the manifold cover, there was an open vacuum line. I went back to Auto Zone, bought a kit which includes the white plastic vacuum supports and some end covers. I put one of the plastic vacuum pieces into the open vacuum line and capped it off. VOILA! The car started and did not shut off after 15 minutes of idle. With that I took it around the block a couple of times and then took it out to the expressway and ran it up to 110 m.p.h.! It was great!
For those of you that have experienced this, DO NOT consider a new fuel pump until you try a les expensive alternative FIRST! I'm a happy camper knowing I did not have to come out of my pocket over $75.00. I did purchase the crankcase position sensor, but I will put it on later. That way I'll have the new parts on! Thank you for your suggetion-it taught me plenty!

Doctur J
03-27-11, 08:45 PM
See my reply below! Doctur J

05-15-11, 08:56 AM
Y;all can add me to the list of satisfied "customers", if you will. I've been reading these replys for about a year and a half, afraid of anything electronic. Yesterday I'd had enough. Had the new sensor for over a year and dang it it,s going in today. Took me less than an hour, and my cat was running again !! I disconnected the old one from the harness,un bolted it underneath. Left the old one in there after cutting both heads off, fished the new one up, next to the exhaust heat shield, zip tied it to the antilock box and BAM, 1st turn of the key, it started after almost 2 years of sitting !

Don't be afraid of this fix ! Now i'm kicking myself for not doing it sooner !!
Easy peazy.

k man
09-15-11, 11:35 PM
I am in the process of changing out the cps, this thread was a life saver. my question is:in the last picture, there is a small disconnected hose I inadvertanly disconnected this same hose, where does it reconnect? what is it's functions

thanks K man

k man
09-17-11, 10:46 PM
ok folks, i have a problem related to picture #6 in this thread. The small hose on the right side of the picture is disconnected at one end, I inadvertanly disconnected this same hose and have no idea where it reattaches.my question is where does this hose reconnect to and what is its function??

Thanks, K man

k man
09-17-11, 10:58 PM

this is the hose i referred to, where does it reattach??

thanks again, K man

09-18-11, 12:07 AM
I don't own a Catera, but from the picture, it looks like it runs down behind the engine. If I had to guess, I'd say transmission vent tube.

09-18-11, 01:12 AM
He is correct. Tranny Vent Tube.

09-18-11, 02:23 AM
In that case, K man, before you ask, that end of the vent tube doesn't attach to anything.

k man
09-19-11, 12:32 PM
ok thanks everyone, does anyone have a picture of the abs modulator, I am almost fininshed with this repair

09-19-11, 06:50 PM
Great shot except for the fact that it's upside down. The brake lines are actually on top. That part it the ABS Pump. The EBTCM is the part consisting of the darker aluminum and the black plastic. The small diagram sucks but it shows the unit separated. The EBTCM is on the right. It has a large cable connector on the front and a small connector underneath. It's a royal PITA to remove. The trick is to remove one of the screws that attach it to the whole assembly's mounting bracket so you can tilt it for access to the EBTCM's screws. Not too much or you risk damaging the brake lines. There is no brake fluid in the EBTCM so you don't lose any brake fluid or brake function. The link is to one of the EBTCM repair shops.



k man
09-20-11, 09:25 PM
repair was successful, thread was very helpful....I'd like to note for that the bolt holding in the sensor is a size t8 external torx head-also, i didn't need to disconnect the bigger connector mentioned previously. Hopefully my reroute of the wire keeps this problem from coming back- i will be sure to chime in again if it does.

thanks to all who responded.

K man.

07-31-14, 06:41 PM
We just. Change the sensor an it still wont stay started, any ideas?
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