: Image Dynamics 10" Subwoofer (Pics)



ssmith100
03-09-06, 09:26 PM
The Image Dynamics sub finally got here. It is the new model ID 10 v.3.
If your going to install this sub it will take some metal modification to the factory opening. I had to bend everything in about a 1/2" to make the sub fit even with the 1/2" MDF baffle. Didn't get a chance to play the sub on the JL 500/1 as one of my input connections has a bad soder joint. It's off to JL to be fixed. I do have it playing on the JL 1200 and it sounds very good. So far this is one of the best free air subwoofers I have ever used. Before anyone says anything about the wiring going to the 1200 it's all temporary till my sub amp gets back. I'll have completed pics of everything then.

Shane

510ctsV
03-09-06, 10:09 PM
looks good ssmith100...hows the rattle and or vibration to the reardeck its mounted on...Hows the window hold'n up also...Otherwise looks nice n good job.

ssmith100
03-09-06, 10:27 PM
There are multiple layers of Dynamat Extreme back there along with the 1/2" MDF amp rack secured to the bottom of the rear deck lid. I've removed all the plastic back there and put everything on foam. The rear window is fine. I don't think it will ever be a problem.

Shane

urbanski
03-10-06, 08:13 AM
put some dynamat on the XM module, it rattles :)

as usual, another flawless, perfectly anal install :cheers:

4drvette
03-10-06, 01:25 PM
Shane,

Your knowledge of audio adaptions is the best on the board. Quick question, if I am going to cut the enclosure, wouldn't it make more sense just to cut a litttle more and go with a 12" instead? I think Image Dynamics has a 12" version of this...

Your thoughts?

Thanks!

CB:worship:

Imperator
03-10-06, 03:09 PM
Shane,

Have you spent some time listening to it yet? If so, what are your thoughts? I'm sure the ID is worlds better than the Kicker Comp, but I'm still wondering about its freeair application. Judging by the T/S specs, the driver's equivalent volume (Vas) at 2.43 cu. ft. looks nice, but the total Q is only .35. On the other hand, the ID MAX doesn't look much like a freeair driver on paper, but had proven itself very responsive in IB installations. I'm still leaning toward the JL10IB4, even with its older design, smaller motor structure, lower power handling and 8-ohm impedance. Call me lazy, but I don't feel like bending sheetmetal. Of course, Dynamat is essential, so I guess some assembly is required.

alcast082
03-10-06, 05:57 PM
hey you wanna come to miami and install mine????
hahaha
I still have 2 idmax v.3 10's from my last car and have a brahma 15" (thats a beast) 2 oldschool rockford amps that put out atleast 1000 watts each.

I've been way to busy to even consider doing anything.

ssmith100
03-10-06, 09:10 PM
Ok guys my impressione of the ID. I've used about every driver known to man in free air form Focal, Dynaudio, JL, Kicker ....etc. The ID works extremely well in free air compared to all of those drivers. Power wise since I'll be running the 500/1 I think the ID will be best suited for me. I really wanted to run the Alumapro H2O but couldn't get one. I've got about 200 watts going to the ID right now on the 1200 and it sounds very good. You guys have to understand that I'm not using a Clean Sweep or the R/F 3sixty so as the volume increases on the factory deck it's cutting the sub down. I will be installing the 3sixty as soon as it's available.

As far as cutting the opening to fit a 12. If I was going to do the 12 I would do it in the spare tire well and remove the factory sub. There would be a lot of sheet metal that would have to be cut AND it would potrude into the trunk a lot. I choose the 10 because I had to keep trunk space because of the golf clubs. (To you golfers out there, three weeks ago when we had the all star game in Houston, I played with Michael Jordan (yes that MJ) and Lawrence Taylor at the Fazio course at Carlton Woods. :thumbsup:

Ok, back to the sub. As soon as my 500/1 gets back I will be able to give you guys a better impression of what the ID will do. For now I would say I would pick it over about anything else out there.

Imperator,
If your going to go JL I would do there marine driver instead of the IB4. It is 4 ohms and is designed for free air (infinite baffle) I contemplated it but the ID silver matched my car better.:)

I've got a ton of sound deading in the car also.

Shane

ssmith100
03-14-06, 12:10 AM
500/1 should be back this week. I'll keep you guys updated on how it sounds with more power. The ID is getting broken in and sounding really good.

SHane

blackonblackonblack
03-14-06, 12:33 AM
Hey SSmith,
What do you think you've added to your V in weight with the dynamat? I bet you can't even hear the road noise except through the wind on the windshield

ssmith100
03-14-06, 09:42 AM
I've added a little over three bulk packs of sound deadening to the car. That includes all doors, floor boards and trunk. I think each pack weighs about 18 pounds so you could figure roughly 70 pounds to the car. It was worth every penny though since I have absolutley no road noise in the car. I do get some wind noise around the front windshield pillars but that's it. Car is rattle free now and just feels more solid.

Shane

4drvette
05-21-06, 02:44 PM
Shane,

Do you recommend a 2 Ohm or 4 Ohm version of the ID10? I will be using a JL 500/1 to drive it...

Thanks!:worship:

LV_V
05-21-06, 04:38 PM
I wouldn't use a 500/1 on an ID10 free-air. Way too much power, especially when its not in a box. The 250/1 would be perfect for this.

nikon
05-21-06, 11:54 PM
:insert zombie here:

4drvette
05-22-06, 12:33 PM
Agreed,

My plan is to keep just the single 10" free air but I may get greedy and eventually add a box. For an extra $80 I might as well go with the 500/1.

Thanks!

ssmith100
05-22-06, 04:24 PM
4drvette,

I've got a dual 4 ohm wired in a 8 ohm load on my 500/1 now. When I was running it on a 2 ohm load it was to much power for the ID in free air. Wired in the 8 ohm load is perfect. I to plan on building an enclosure later so the 500/1 was the choice for me. I also wanted the rack to be symetrical in the back.

Shane

urbanski
05-22-06, 04:50 PM
nice rack :p

4drvette
05-22-06, 04:54 PM
Thanks Shane,

I have a chance to get an Alumapro H20 or a Infinty Kappa Perfect 10D as well. Your thoughts on either of those?

ssmith100
05-22-06, 05:45 PM
I was going to by the Alumapro H2O when I was first looking at subs but couldn't find one. I have never really been a big Infinity fan so that one really wasn't an option. I really like the ID that I have right now. For the money, the Kicker Comp is the best buy. I had mine installed on the 500/1 for about two weeks and it sounded very good. The silver of the ID sub is almost a perfect match to my car so it "looks" like factory. If you have any questions about the install, let me know.

Shane

FlyFlip420
05-23-06, 12:08 AM
Looks great....So youve decided to get the RF 360....I have the cleansweep and Love the sound.....The 360 is cool, you can do alot more with it if you have a computer or PDA handy to sync with it.......Other than that and a ocuple hundred bucks, they are about the same. Great choice in audio equipment too, I have the JL 12w6v2 sub in a ported box and the 500/1 powerin it and its insanly clear at all volume levels...you will notice a big difference when you get the 360.....That dynamats a pain in the ass, I had over 50 cuts when I installed the 36sq foot pack...still gotta do the doors.....Heres a pic of what I got There is more room than shows in the pic, the shadow makes it look like there is no room, but theres almost two feet of space from the end of the trunk to the box.....:thumbsup: What did you do about the lights rattlin? My rear light and the one by the sunroof controls(which I dont have a sunroof:bigroll: ) rattle on certain bass notes and I didnt really know how to get them off to fix, or what to do...just tape em??
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h84/FlyFlip420/100_1633.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h84/FlyFlip420/100_1630.jpg