I have not seen these yet for ATS applications. Reading up on their site there is protection for uneven voltage which would shut down the lamp - this would be the type of voltage the DRLs would give out. I know some HID setups can handle this (Morimoto with canbus) not sure with this. IMHO I would order a set of capacitors and have on hand for installation.
Keep us updated on the install as well, Good luck.
Thanks, I'm a total noob to all of this, but can this be purchased at a local store? Also, can you perhaps share a link on Amazon or anywhere else that may offer them that will give me an understanding about them. I know I can search, but do you have a simple answer to what the difference is between a capacitor and a resister?
The daylight running lights operate on 12 volts that is pulsed (not steady) this allows the lamps to be dim during DRL operation. Ballasts do not like this pulsing, and typically shut down or cause lamp flickering. HID kits used for this application either have power directly from the battery with a relay harness, or good quality setups can use the power at the headlights with a CANBUS connector. This canbus connector does two functions - I believe it has a resistor component, which causes the circuit to use the same amount of power as a regular halogen bulb, therefore the car's computer does not see a 'bulb out' error with lower voltage, and has a capacitor component which acts as a buffer to store the pulsating voltage in DRL mode and smoothing out the signal to the ballast.
I am far from an expert, but this is what I understand the component do. The caviat with using a kit on an non-hid setup is that during DRL mode, the lights are running at full brightness.
I would definitely spek with customer service, mention that you have DRLs that cannot be shut off(except by manually turning them off each time you start the car) and that the DRLs operate on a pulse setup
I installed them and took them out same day. The lights were definitely bright, however I should've known better. There is a Plastic cover that goes over the existing bulb hosing, this prevents moisture and dust from getting into the projector and on to the lens. When I installed the lights, the fan that is directly behind the bulb sticks way out and you cannot put the plastic cap back on. I've searched and saw that others have went ahead and drilled a hole about 1" in diameter around the center of the cap to allow the bulb to fit. I haven't decided yet if I am willing to do that because it is not something I originally intended to do and will essentially not allow for a perfect seal of the projector.
Overall consensus is not good. HID would have performed better.
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