: How To Clean the Throttle Body



SL1CK
02-26-06, 03:48 PM
A common problem for Cadillacs, and many other cars at that, is their reputation for getting a dirty throttle body due to carbon buildup. Dirty throttle bodies would eventually produce what many people would refer to as a "sticky gas pedal" and frequent stalls at stops. The simple fix for this common problem is one that can be done by anyone with the proper tools.

By now you may be wondering, what is the throttle body? In simple terms, the throttle body is a round opening that controls airflow. For a further explanation on how this works, read the article in the yellow box on this page: http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272341.html?page=3&c=y

Now, down to the nitty gritty...how can I clean the throttle body? Cleaning the throttle body is a simple process that this walkthrough will demonstrate. Let's start.

Tools Needed:
Ratchet with 9/32" bit.
Carb Cleaner (Top Gum Brand is used in this walkthrough)
Rag or Toothbrush (to clean)

Step 1: Remove the Air Intake. This can be done by simply pulling it off at the round opening at the top.

There is one sensor that may have to be unplugged (it should have red lining). In this walkthrough, there are a total of 3.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb4.jpg

Specifically, this is the air intake:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb42.jpg

Step 2; part 1: The removal of the air intake will expose the MAF screen.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb2.jpg

Specifically, this is the MAF screen:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb22.jpg

Step 2; part 2: Remove the MAF screen with a ratchet. (You will need a 9/32" bit)

The red outlines indicate where you should remove the screws. The blue outlines indicate sensors plugs that can/may be removed for easier access as previously mentioned. There are 3 screws, one is under the MAF screen, remove this one first to make things easier (it is the hardest to loosen because of its location).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb32.jpg

Step 3: The throttle body and throttle body blade ("blade" does not indicate that it is sharp) are now exposed.

The throttle body blade opens when the accelerator is pressed. It will need to be kept open in order for proper cleaning. In order to do this, you may lay something heavy on the accelerator (manually keeping it open will tire your hands).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb.jpg

Step 4: Proceed to clean the throttle body with Carb Cleaner.

You may either spray some on the actual blade and bore, or spray on a toothbrush and clean. DO NOT FORGET to clean the blade perimeter as well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb5.jpg

After you are done cleaning the throttle body, reassemble everything by following these steps backwards. REMEMBER TO RE-CONNECT ALL UNPLUGGED SENSORS.

The total amount of time required for this task depends on how well you are aware with the location of certain objects. It may range from 30 minutes to 2 hours including cleaning.

-SL1CK

96-deville-man
02-27-06, 04:00 AM
Nice write up. i wasnt sure how i should clean mine now i know how too. thanks im gonna do it tomarrow.

OffThaHorseCEO
02-27-06, 12:37 PM
judging from the pictures it looks like this will work on my 2k1 deville, is that correct?

if so the owners manual says something about an electronic control pedal, which im guessing would eliminate the possibility of layin somethin on the pedal to keep the blade open

SL1CK
02-27-06, 09:14 PM
It should work for the 2k1 deville, although some parts may LOOK different and MAYBE require a different size ratchet bit.

Tommy Deville
02-27-06, 10:15 PM
Man its amazeing how the more things change the more they stay the same

Kimura-sensei
02-28-06, 11:26 PM
Thanks for the great pics and instructions. That's exactly the problem I was having, sticky gas pedal and stalling at 30mph when slowing down from high speed. I was shocked how much crap was in my throttle body at 66k miles for my 99 deville. It looked like a used car's motor oil which was never changed. I went through 5 cotton rags to clean all that black junk out.

For that bottom screw, I had to use a 2 inch extension. And I don't know what it's called, but the lever where the wire is being pulled on that connects to the blade... I opened the blade then placed a wrench on the lever which kept the blade open. Oh, I was a bit concerned for a moment after I finished my task and attempted to start the car. The engine struggles like as if it's been flooded and revs up the engine multiple times like as if it's a misfire or something. After 45-60 secs, it calms down and runs fine.

For a guy who does decent amount of maintaince and repairs on his car... this project took me 1hr. Taking it all apart, cleaning, re-assemble, and turning the car on to purge the remaining cleaner out of the engine.

Thanks guys, this forum kicks ass.

MrEr1c
03-01-06, 10:30 PM
so it is ok to leave excess cleaner in the throttle body?

Ranger
03-02-06, 05:40 PM
Excess cleaner will not stay in the TB. It will drain out the front or the back and settle in the manifold where it will evaporate or be injested and burnt. Personally, I stick a rag in as far as I can get it and try to sop up as much of it as I can out of the manifold.

andrew99eldorado
03-03-06, 12:45 AM
This is a great post. Very easy to follow. Is there anything else i should know about. I know its very important to not touch the mass air flow sensor. I have heard some people get some carb cleaner on the MAF and run into problems. I was just wondering if there is other things to be careful of.

Ranger
03-03-06, 03:13 AM
Not much. It is pretty straight forward. Just don't get crazy if it is really carboned up and try to scrape it with anything metalic. Remember, the TB is aluminum (soft).

Guy,mn.usa
03-03-06, 07:40 AM
I cleaned my TB last nite. 98 STS 130,000 miles. This stuff/gunk/cabon was an 1/8" thick on the back side of the throttle blade and a 1/8" thick rim of it behind the throttle blade!! Inside the intake looks way thick with the gunk, I'm thinking of taking the intake off and cleaning it too! The best part was throttle responce I got after just cleaning it back to the intake!!!! Off idle throttle responce is awsome now!!! Now what will happen when I clean out the intake, my guess would be more power!! Port matching & porting an intake on hot rod V8 can be as high as 20hp! Maybe we need pictures/instructions how to remove and clean a North star intake?
Guy

N0DIH
03-03-06, 09:42 PM
My mom's 97 FSM states that this is a 30K mile cleaning interval.

I have tried to keep up on this on most of my cars that are EFI. I just installed a oil separator on my LT1 that should reduce this oil residue buildup from the PCV system.

http://collop.cz28.com/custom2.html gives a good description of it and why this is a good idea.

Excellent post SL1CK!

Astronomer
04-10-06, 03:23 PM
Great information...very easy to do on the 2000 STS as there is no MAF screen to remove. Mine was not that dirty, but no question it needed a cleaning. It took me about twenty minutes. So far the idle looks to have steadied out. I'll see over the next few days how critical this was to the idle problem. Thanks again. :burn:

Patrick7997
04-10-06, 06:29 PM
Great post. Mine was identical to the pictures... did it Saturday, was a piece of cake.

My car started right up, but blew some smoke for about 30 seconds.... then cleared up.

Nice write up, nice pics. Thanks a million.....

David Jenison
04-11-06, 05:51 PM
A common problem for Cadillacs, and many other cars at that, is their reputation for getting a dirty throttle body due to carbon buildup. Dirty throttle bodies would eventually produce what many people would refer to as a "sticky gas pedal" and frequent stalls at stops. The simple fix for this common problem is one that can be done by anyone with the proper tools.

By now you may be wondering, what is the throttle body? In simple terms, the throttle body is a round opening that controls airflow. For a further explanation on how this works, read the article in the yellow box on this page: http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272341.html?page=3&c=y

Now, down to the nitty gritty...how can I clean the throttle body? Cleaning the throttle body is a simple process that this walkthrough will demonstrate. Let's start.

Tools Needed:
Ratchet with 9/32" bit.
Carb Cleaner (Top Gum Brand is used in this walkthrough)
Rag or Toothbrush (to clean)

Step 1: Remove the Air Intake. This can be done by simply pulling it off at the round opening at the top.

There is one sensor that may have to be unplugged (it should have red lining). In this walkthrough, there are a total of 3.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb4.jpg

Specifically, this is the air intake:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb42.jpg

Step 2; part 1: The removal of the air intake will expose the MAF screen.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb2.jpg

Specifically, this is the MAF screen:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb22.jpg

Step 2; part 2: Remove the MAF screen with a ratchet. (You will need a 9/32" bit)

The red outlines indicate where you should remove the screws. The blue outlines indicate sensors plugs that can/may be removed for easier access as previously mentioned. There are 3 screws, one is under the MAF screen, remove this one first to make things easier (it is the hardest to loosen because of its location).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb32.jpg

Step 3: The throttle body and throttle body blade ("blade" does not indicate that it is sharp) are now exposed.

The throttle body blade opens when the accelerator is pressed. It will need to be kept open in order for proper cleaning. In order to do this, you may lay something heavy on the accelerator (manually keeping it open will tire your hands).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb.jpg

Step 4: Proceed to clean the throttle body with Carb Cleaner.

You may either spray some on the actual blade and bore, or spray on a toothbrush and clean. DO NOT FORGET to clean the blade perimeter as well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v714/slick07/tb5.jpg

After you are done cleaning the throttle body, reassemble everything by following these steps backwards. REMEMBER TO RE-CONNECT ALL UNPLUGGED SENSORS.

The total amount of time required for this task depends on how well you are aware with the location of certain objects. It may range from 30 minutes to 2 hours including cleaning.

-SL1CK

What a great tip. Like many others I had a sticky gas pedal. Just thought it was normal stuff. Such an easy fix. Many thanks.
Dave,
1997 concours

Astronomer
04-11-06, 06:46 PM
SL1CK,

I would like to nominate you for "Tech Tip Of The Month" Thanks a bunch for a very well thought out and illustrated tip. Can I coax you into a post about changing spark plugs in a 2000 STS? :burn:

N0DIH
04-12-06, 04:55 PM
I find my LT1 tends to get stickier in the winter months, primarily if I have the throttle body coolant bypassed.

Cleaning helps a lot. I don't recommend the throttle body coolant bypass due to the sticking in the winter. It doesn't do much if anything at all anyway.


What a great tip. Like many others I had a sticky gas pedal. Just thought it was normal stuff. Such an easy fix. Many thanks.
Dave,
1997 concours

CadillacSTS42005
04-14-06, 08:59 AM
Hey i just did mine...
and my dads...
and my moms (woah was hers hell!!!)
took about 2 hours to do them all no biggie at all great wright up i used it the 1st time a mth back and figured i owed you some props so slick muchas gracias

N0DIH
04-14-06, 10:12 AM
If you take a good monitor of your idle IAC counts before and after you will see the improvement.

IAC counts around (I believe) 128 show no need to perform it, but anything outside of that, it is needed.

SL1CK
04-14-06, 11:20 AM
SL1CK,
Can I coax you into a post about changing spark plugs in a 2000 STS? :burn:

I seriously would if I had a 2000 STS :rolleyes:

N0DIH
04-28-06, 08:31 AM
On my LT1, I was able to add a oil separator into the crank case breather air line which should reduce the needs for this cleaning.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336407

http://lt1tech.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=003154

I can't seem to find a good pic of it, but I will take one on mine. It looks stock, so if you are creative, you can add this to the NorthStar.

IBRandog
08-24-06, 10:36 PM
This forum ROCKS!! Slick, you rule the rock! lol

So, Im picking up a 92 Deville with 91,000 from Texas any day now. Approximately what percentage or these Devilles are having this problem and should I just plan on cleaning the TB right away? Before symptoms and all?

SL1CK
08-25-06, 12:30 PM
Plan on doing it every 20K-30K or so.

It would be really good if you did it asap.

Ranger
08-25-06, 08:30 PM
On the '92 (4.9), don't forget to rod out the two EGR tubes down in the TB. They will get carboned up.

Clark in Aloha Land
08-26-06, 12:49 PM
This instruction works on a 1991 seville as well. It is a little easer to get too. Remove the air intake elbow and open the throttle. Alternate spray and swab the two ports untill clean. (A small swap about the size of a gun cleaner and you are in business.) The car now runns like it should and the gas millage is back where it should be. Thanks for the post.

Cyberdan3
08-28-06, 05:42 PM
I know how to clean throttle bodies, but when I did mine, the car started kind of hard as usual, but then the throttle seemed to be sticking slightly. It wasnt doing that before. I used to work at a Cadillac dealer and was always told to just place a screwdriver inside to keep the blade open (obviousely dont pry on the metal). Anyone have this probelm also? Maybe I just have to go drive it to let it settle out.

Ranger
08-30-06, 07:26 PM
If the throttle is sticking, do it again. Spary the pivot points good, clean the perimiter of the throttle blade.

GailyBedight
09-13-06, 04:28 PM
Went to clean the TB last night, (98 eldorado), and just for grins checked the service manual. Page 6-777 states "Do not use any solvent that contains methyl ethyl ketone, (MEK). This solvent may damage fuel system components."

Sure enough, the spray carb and choke cleaner I had contained MEK. Purchased some Carb Choke & Throttle Body Cleaner which has xylene and acetone as solvents.

Probably a good idea to use cleaners that are specifically for throttle bodys.

"Ride, boldly, Ride" - James Caan - Eldorado

Camuchi
09-16-06, 11:07 PM
Amen Brother- don't use old school carb cleaner on the throttle body. I think there is a coating on the blades that can be washed away with regular carburetor cleaner. Throttle body blades are different metal than an old quadrajet or holley blades. I am not sure why the coating is there even- Lubrication i think because a throttle body doesnt have the fuel flowing over it like a carbs blades do.
Anyway don't panic if you did it with the old stuff just remember if you start having sticking issues in the future.
Someody else might have better data on the coating and its purpose, i am going from memory and my stupid dial up precludes any kind of reasonable data search this century!
Matt

stevebuick23
11-07-06, 09:37 PM
Did it and it made it better. What a pain in the ass compared to some of my other cars though.

Roswell256
12-11-06, 12:45 PM
This is a great howto!!!

My question is can I still do this to my Yukon with a 5.7L. the TB is horizontal (intake air comes from the top and goes down) so any solvent sprayed in will drop straight into the intake. Will this cause problems? Do I have to take my TB all the way off to clean it?

Thanks
-Robert-

Ranger
12-11-06, 05:59 PM
Just hold the throttle plate open. No need to remove the TB. If the solvent goes into the manifold (I assume you meant vertical) it may be a little hard to start and will smoke a bit til it all gets burned out. You could also stuff a rag down there to absorb most of it. Just don't forget to remove it.

N0DIH
12-11-06, 06:39 PM
BEST cleaning is done removed. But you don't have to if you want to do it and make it better. You can get 90% with it on. Just takes some work.

Lurk on over to FullSizeChevy.com, in the tech section or How To article section should be all you need and a ton more..




This is a great howto!!!

My question is can I still do this to my Yukon with a 5.7L. the TB is horizontal (intake air comes from the top and goes down) so any solvent sprayed in will drop straight into the intake. Will this cause problems? Do I have to take my TB all the way off to clean it?

Thanks
-Robert-

FL01SS
12-15-06, 08:01 AM
Hey great write up! I usually clean my TB every other oil change. It's probably overkill, but I've had a dirty TB stall my vehicle out at stop lights during rush hour before:banghead: so I alwasy keep it clean now.

There is one thing though, YOU SHOULD NOT USE CARB CLEANER ON YOUR TB!!! There's a difference between carb cleaner and TB cleaner! TB cleaner won't damage the TB or electrical sensors where A LOT of carb cleaners will (most actually). Carb cleaners are more harsh than TB cleaners! I use and recommend using Valvolines TB/Carb cleaner. It works great and it has a unique spray nozzel that can spray in any direction, which means you can spray up & down and side to side and get erevy bit of the TB without holding the can upside down (which will normally stop a can from spraying!) Here's a pic of the can. You can also clean out your PCV with it too.

N0DIH
12-15-06, 08:21 AM
Walmart carb cleaner is HARSH, I mean wicked stuff. Be very very careful with it. It strips carbs down to bare aluminum is seconds. Avoid unless you want that.... All that irridite finish is gone.....

N-star
12-15-06, 10:59 AM
You can also buy a bored out (about 3 more mm) TB from ebay every now and then you'll see them for sell, from a guy down in Fl.

Not a bad deal is something like $150, and you'll get about 10 more hp

dp102288
12-15-06, 06:08 PM
FL01SS good tip about the harshness!

N-star, would those work with our existing setups?

LacRider01
12-31-06, 11:02 PM
Great post i did it and it was soo dirty and grimme. the cars respones so much better now. good look

MightyMi
03-30-07, 09:39 AM
Excellent post

RENO99DEVILLE
01-08-08, 11:42 PM
Nice! Thanks for the help, will clean mine tomorrow!!

limoguy
11-09-08, 09:38 PM
I have a 98 Deville with 203k on her. Ranger suggested to try this. THe RPM`s have been sticking lately. She went pretty far w/o ever being cleaned.

limoguy
11-10-08, 02:16 PM
OK...Just got finished!! THe instructions were perfect. It really made this job easy as pie. There sure was 203K worth of carbon in there to. I had the carb spray, toothbrush and a rag. Sprayed a bit, brushed, wiped. After 20-30 mins, I put it back together. So, far it looks like its back normal. I got my fingers crossed. Thanks again

94_SDV
12-03-08, 11:54 AM
Mine has 221,000 kms on the clock and it looked like the EGR tubes at the bottom of the throttle body had never been cleaned out. The tubes were 75% clogged! It runs sooo much smoother now. Thanks so much for this post! Next it's the EGR valve cleaning.

SL1CK
02-23-09, 03:03 AM
Dang, I wrote this back when I was in highschool, seems to still be going strong. Will update with better pictures for yall.

Submariner409
02-23-09, 08:21 AM
SL1CK, Remind people that GM now recommends using products labeled as "throttlebody cleaner" due to the presence of MEK (ketones) in "carb cleaner" which may damage the coatings on throttle and butterfly parts.

N0DIH
02-23-09, 12:49 PM
Always be very careful NOT to use stuff like Walmart's carb cleaner, it is VERY VERY rough on parts! It will strip any coatings off in a flash. It will make a Q-Jet silver in seconds! It isn't supposed to be!

Talamant3z
03-20-09, 02:16 PM
i used berry,am b-12 chemtool carburetor choke & throttle body cleaner did a good job i didnt find any just throttle body cleaner so this was the next best thing

http://i39.tinypic.com/smge38.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/2nbrm6u.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/wo2g0.jpg

ga_etc
05-11-09, 07:57 PM
I just cleaned mine a little while ago. Mine looked worse than Talamant3z's. It was solid black. I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush and STP Throttle Body and Carb cleaner. I guess that's what happens when the car is 10 years old and has 112K on it and it's never been cleaned. Great post.

SL1CK
05-12-09, 05:01 PM
I'll probably be posting new pics soon, I have a real camera now.

Jamie Z
02-23-10, 03:29 PM
Thanks for this great write-up. I probably would have never figured out my sticky gas pedal. My symptoms weren't like most others described here. I just had a slight hesitation in the pedal from a start.

I didn't know if cleaning the throttle body would be the fix. Indeed, my throttle body wasn't all that dirty. A few little touches of black stuff. I cleaned it up. Sticky gas pedal is gone.

Perfect.

Thanks.

Jamie

Caddy465
03-02-10, 06:49 PM
This has got to be one of the most helpful threads on this site! I am NOT a mechanical person and I did this the other day following the instructions. The setup on my Seville was a little different. The MAF screen was on the other end of the hose (or whatever it's called) next to the air filter rather than next to the TB so I didn't have to remove that. I used my wife's toothbrush (kidding) to clean it and then wrapped a rag around the toothbrush and got it in there as far as I could. It was solid black and worse than Talamant3z's, but after I cleaned it, it looked just as good as his. I feel pretty good about myself now.

Windrider
03-29-10, 12:21 PM
When I look at this thread the pictures don't display. The setting on my browser (Internet Explorer) has the "show pictures" option checked in internet options.

What else should I do?

thanks

Windrider

mart88
03-31-10, 04:22 AM
Thanks for the tips! :)

Ranger
04-02-10, 10:03 PM
When I look at this thread the pictures don't display. The setting on my browser (Internet Explorer) has the "show pictures" option checked in internet options.

What else should I do?

thanks

Windrider
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danbenton
05-13-10, 07:09 PM
This guide was excellent... drove a few blocks to "blow out" the dirty air, and it seems to have done what it was supposed to.

Thank you for the edited photos and guidance! More money in my pocket thanks to this site.

TEXASROCKS
05-24-10, 08:09 PM
I have a 98 Deville with 165,000 miles on it and i checked mine and it is freakin bonkers dirty...like i'm talking retarded! I cleaned as much as i could but it felt like a losing battle! Should i be taking the intake manifold off to clean it, or take the TB off and clean it more effectively? I stuck my finger as far back as i could and scrapped the side and a 1/2 inch of gunk came out on my finger! After cleaning the butterfly and all around it...it did seem to improve responsiveness, but just wondering how much farther i want to take this? Or if its even worth it??

Rolex
05-25-10, 02:11 PM
Taking off the TB would be easier then removing the intake manifold by a dang site. Removing the TB may be a better option if you believe there are still areas you can't see that need to be cleaned.

I've used amsoil Power Foam cleaner on a 17 year old truck before with really good results. It's just a thought. It's one of the few amsoil products I've used, and I had good results from it. I cleaned what I cold see with carb/tb cleaner and used the foam to clean the rest.

Submariner409
05-26-10, 10:17 AM
Trying to clean the inside of a Northstar intake manifold, especially a 2000+, would be an exercise in futility. Better to call Jake and buy/find a new one - the frustration prevention would be worth the price.

If you remove the manifold you can clean the first intake tunnel, but the lower box and runners are impossible. It's probably worth the effort if the TB was really disgusting.

Ranger
05-26-10, 10:51 PM
No need to clean the manifold. That's akin to cleaning the exhaust system. All it needs is the throttle plate and the TB bore as far in as you can reach.

TEXASROCKS
06-06-10, 01:09 PM
Ya...not gonna attempt to remove the manifold....took off the TB and the EGR lines. The EGR lines and ports on the manifold were completely clogged!!! Removed them, soaked them...so we'll see how that works out. Its bonkers how much carbon and sludge is in there! Could there be a problem else where that is causing this? Sorry if these sound like dumb questions...not a expert on these matters hehe

2001_Seville_SLS
06-07-10, 12:02 PM
The EGR lines and ports on the manifold were completely clogged!!! ... Its bonkers how much carbon and sludge is in there! Could there be a problem else where that is causing this?

It is caused by your car burning oil.

TEXASROCKS
06-07-10, 09:22 PM
Ok well the next question is does the ring cleaning procedure work or is it more likely that the rings are shot? I only paid 1500 for the car and its in pretty good shape but if it comes to doing anything involving stripping the engine down i'm not gonna bother with it. The HG's are intact and it runs like a champ.

Submariner409
06-07-10, 09:30 PM
The EGR problem comes from the sheer amount of exhaust gas passed through the system - and, as 2001 posted, if your car burns (uses) more that 1 quart of oil every 2,000 miles, then the problem is compounded.

Find a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TECHRON, dump it in the tank, and fill with Texaco, Chevron, or Caltech 91/93 gas and go for a 200 mile road trip - use the trip an an excuse for a long lunch. During this trip run the snot out of the car - WOT's and long steady accelerations and slowdowns. Heat it up and work it out: city driving is death for a Northstar. Run it.

Read the entire Cadillac Technical Archive up ^^^ in the black bar. Read it.....

TEXASROCKS
06-07-10, 10:30 PM
Thanks! Found that very useful! Now to put it all back together :S Hate waiting on parts!!

arctic_man
06-07-10, 10:54 PM
Find a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TECHRON, dump it in the tank, and fill with Texaco, Chevron, or Caltech 91/93 gas and go for a 200 mile road trip - use the trip an an excuse for a long lunch. During this trip run the snot out of the car - WOT's and long steady accelerations and slowdowns. Heat it up and work it out: city driving is death for a Northstar. Run it.

Read the entire Cadillac Technical Archive up ^^^ in the black bar. Read it.....

I think I have read that tip from you like 4 or 5 times today Submariner -.-

TEXASROCKS
06-08-10, 07:57 AM
I am back home in Canada for a little while and we don't have Techron here...you recommend any alternatives? We pretty much have everything else...Thanks for your time

Ranger
06-09-10, 12:24 PM
Ok well the next question is does the ring cleaning procedure work or is it more likely that the rings are shot? I only paid 1500 for the car and its in pretty good shape but if it comes to doing anything involving stripping the engine down i'm not gonna bother with it. The HG's are intact and it runs like a champ.
Your rings are NOT shot. Due to oil usage they are still like new as well as the cylinder walls. If you opened the engine up you'd still see the factory crosshatch hone pattern in the cylinder walls. The problem is that the rings are carboned up in the groves and do not rotate or expand as they should. The solution as Sub said is in the WOT procedure or, worst case, the ring cleaning procedure, but you have to be VERY careful to get all the solution out of the cylinders or you could hydrolock it.

browncoug
10-13-10, 07:27 PM
I had a problem with the engine stalling on me and after I took it to a Certified dealer on 4 different occasions they fixed it because I told them what was wrong. They kept telling me it was an air leak and old error codes but the problem kept recurring, I finally hoped online and read this forum. I told them to clean the throttle body and they opened it up and found that the spring was worn out. They replaced it and it runs great now!!!

MingBlueCTS
01-24-11, 01:00 AM
Just to confirm.

I want to take mine off to clean behind the plate. (07 CTS)
The four bolt pattern is the only thing holding it on? Once those bolts are loosened and removed it should slide off
I wanted to make sure that if I took the four bolts off I didnt get myself into something I couldnt get myself out of.

tjlwolf
03-04-11, 09:50 PM
Could this be the reason im getting a P0507 Error Code? Its idling high....although you would never notice!(Service Engine light is on)

strainu
03-08-11, 04:39 PM
2004 Deville DTS
at first it was not able to keep idling when cold and everything else started from here.
I research this forum and many others, and got back to the cleaning procedure for the throtle body. It was well overdue at 140.000 miles I couldn't see the aluminum, it was that black. I opted to take it apart and clean it in a small bucket were i could let it immersed in cleaner and soak the gunk. While I was there I read that the air intake manifold ( black nylon) can get dirty with al the whirling shapes from the galleries and tried to clean that too, but it was so cold outside that I was happy with just a summary cleaning. I believe that all the gunk deposited there is coming from the rear crankcase cover and the lack of a pcv valve. I found out later that the pcv valve is replaced by a fixed orifice diaphragm about a 1/8 of an inch or so and all the gases are directed into the intake trough the left of the air manifold just to be re-burned for emission purposes.
So for that I come up with the idea ( skeptical at the beginning) that an oil catch can made out of a Kobalt oil/air filter that I modified for this purpose might help to keep this engine a little cleaner. I must recon that I managed after installing it to collect about 30 ml of oil and a little bit ( like 10%) of water for every 2-300 miles . The filter had to be modified in order to not actually obstruct the vacuum flow but just create that separation of oily mist trough condensation.
The car still had trouble starting cold and I removed that contraption and look for further issues.
the only codes that came out from time to time were related to tps 0121 and idle out of range 0507.
I took the IAC out and realizing that had a crack in the white plastic guide I attempted to fix it with JB weld and some heat shrink tube to reinforce it. It worked for a while about 1000 miles. but the engine was out of control and kept revving high at 2000 rpm sometimes 3000 rpm and overheating so I developed a badly need for a new water pump and an urgent coolant flush!
On a rainy day ( pouring) the $40 flow tech water pump was installed and just water added to the system for cleaning.
With the help from this forum I followed all the detailed info and benefit from the members knowledge to buy ahead that water pump removal tool $35 at Autozone. After 50 miles that day I flushed that once again and refill with the red Prestone coolant that I mixed myself 60/40.
Meanwhile the dealer told me about $400 for the IAC valve, AdvanceAutoparts $290, AutoZone $260, Napa $340 and so on.
after a little research I found out that are about 3 manufacturers for this valve and one is more expensive that the other.
So blessed by the access to the internet I found out at Amazon ( yes, indeed) the IAC valve for $185! the store is ShopACdelco and the brand is ACdelco.
Got the part in 2 days, installed and the car now is working PERFECT! and by the way I put back the Oil Catch Can, and it works just great.

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the comments and the opinions expressed in this forum that helped me grasp the concept of functionality in the northstar engine.

By the way, a slight gain in milage (1.5 extra per gallon) is not to be ignored in suburban conditions with few traffic lights.

I'll check it on highway on my next trip.

pcmcalibrators
01-26-12, 04:55 PM
1993 to 1995 do not have a MAF

AJxtcman
01-26-12, 05:02 PM
1993 to 1999 does not have a MAF

shovelnut
04-26-12, 02:52 PM
Wow - Thanks much for the pics, discussion, and direction. My 2000 Seville throttle stuck when cold with the dreaded "rush" after the initial hard push on the pedal. Followed the procedure here and now everything is great! BTW - I had about 1/8 inch thick deposit and was tempted to use metal to scrape - thanks to Ranger for stopping me with the comment! Great forum.

jammgm
02-28-13, 02:29 PM
Nice procedure! My gas pedal is sticking too and now I know how to clean it. Thanks Dave!

shorecc
03-05-13, 07:22 PM
Uh oh I used the Walmart Carb cleaner...Much better response now! But I see some threads after the writeup about the Walmart cleaner...Will i be in trouble? I used nearly a whole can cleaning my TB

Ranger
03-07-13, 11:41 PM
Uh oh I used the Walmart Carb cleaner...Much better response now! But I see some threads after the writeup about the Walmart cleaner...Will i be in trouble? I used nearly a whole can cleaning my TBNo..

jammgm
03-08-13, 02:04 PM
Just found this post and will clean my 98 Eldo that has 107,000 miles on it, has a sticky gas petal, and never cleaned. I wasn't aware this needed to be done on a regular basis. Thanks for the great pics and steps to do it. A friend recommended using Sea Foam Deep Creep.
I used their fuel injector product which works good. I'll check to make sure it doesnt have MEK in it as commented in the posts.
Thanks again, , Jim

Submariner409
03-09-13, 01:09 PM
Leave the Seafoam on the shelf - all versions of it.

Use a spray can of Choke & Throttlebody cleaner, an old toothbrush, lint-free rags and fuzzy hobby pipe cleaners (craft stores).

For your 1998, the MAF is bolted directly to the throttlebody face. Remove it, clean the electrical connector, and don't mess with the heated resistor stack in the MAF bore.

jammgm
05-29-13, 12:00 PM
SL1CK,

Nice procedure. Just cleaned mine for the first time in 15 years since I bought the car new using Seafoam Deepcreep and a toothbrush.
Did it several times and the car started right up after. It also fixed my sticky gas pedal which I had for some time. Thanks again, Jim

gpmroy
05-30-13, 01:30 PM
I cleaned the TB this morning, there was a ton of sludge behind the TB but you can only reach so far, but it is now as clean as i could get it. Beyond where I could reach, I think the intake manifold, is just full of that sludge, is there any way to get that clean, or is it not a concern??
The car started with no concerns, no stalling yet, I will follow up on this thread if the stalling returns.
By the way, do you have an answer for the SECURITY LIGHT coming on??

Ranger
05-31-13, 11:46 AM
Beyond where I could reach, I think the intake manifold, is just full of that sludge, is there any way to get that clean, or is it not a concern??
It's of no concern. Won't affect a thing.

Hogg_61
07-16-13, 03:38 PM
Awesome write up SL1CK! I cleaned mine a few weeks ago and what a difference! I also replaced the TPS which was a pain - I had to unbolt the throttle body to get the torx drive on the bolt and since it was off I cleaned the back of the TB too.

BigErn23
10-02-13, 11:54 AM
I was suggested to clean the TB by several people.
Im fairly mechanically inclined, but never done this before.
I have a 2000 STS recently stalled a few times.
I figrued Id clean TB before changing CKP.

So....I got in there, removed the air intake and all that.
Then opened the blade of the throttle with my fingers.....sprayed a ton of CRC throttle cleaner in there....wiped with a clean rag around and behind the blade.....repeat and repeat....

Sound like I did anything wrong/right?

The car didnt start until the 3rd or 4th time I tried to turn it over after the procedure.....but I wasnt too worried, as I assumed it was from having the intake off and finger-banging the throttle blade, cleaner....etc.

It eventually started fine and I let it run for a while.

Just wondering if I need to do anything differently the next time.

Thanks.

Rolex
10-02-13, 01:36 PM
......
Just wondering if I need to do anything differently the next time.

Thanks.


Next time stuff a lint free cloth into the throat of the throttle body to soak up all the overspray. Just remember to remove the rag before trying to restart. :) You will notice the vehicle starts up on the first try.

BigErn23
10-02-13, 02:06 PM
Ok....will do, Thanks!

Bit_Image
12-22-13, 06:17 PM
Question... Will carb cleaner destroy the rubber boot that goes between the TB and the intake on a 02 Northstar?

Submariner409
12-22-13, 06:57 PM
No - and if you get anything more than a trace of TB cleaner all the way to the plenum, you have used too much.

I block open the throttle blade using a piece of 2 X 2 wedged against the driver's seat front and the gas pedal - move the seat forward to force the throttle open. If you are antsy about overspray, stuff a clean lint free rag into the TB past the open blade. Now scrub with your old toothbrush until the bore and blade looks brand new. Pull the now-filthy rag with needlenose pliers or mechanic's fingers.

Seriously consider this modification that makes underhood and transmission level checks a LOT easier.

LoveMyLac
01-15-14, 10:02 PM
Thank you for the tutorial. Cleaned mine today, first time I've ever done it. With 77k on my 2001 DeVille DTS it has probably been cleaned once before but it still needed it. Used an old t-shirt for a rag and toothbrush along with CRC throttle body cleaner. Took about 15 mins. Toothbrush will never been the same haha. Completely black!

SL1CK
03-31-14, 09:13 PM
Sorry to bump up such an old thread, but it's great that this is still being used by CF members. I wrote the article nearly 10 years ago, when I about 16 years old. I'm 25 years old now. What a long way we have come! I still have my beautiful Seville and don't plan on ever letting it go!

Rolex
03-31-14, 10:23 PM
Sorry to bump up such an old thread, but it's great that this is still being used by CF members. I wrote the article nearly 10 years ago, when I about 16 years old. I'm 25 years old now. What a long way we have come! I still have my beautiful Seville and don't plan on ever letting it go!

:cheers: