: Sound deadening Interior Tearout FAQ *pics*



urbanski
01-25-06, 06:00 PM
Here is how to take out your front seats, carpeting, console, and rear seat for purposes of applying sound deadener.
Deadener du jour: RAAMmat BXT. http://www.raamaudio.com/
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260541.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260541/)
60mil, butyl based, did well in reviews. Cheaper than those below:
Prior installs with Damplifier Pro http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?pg=1&p=pr
And Dynamat Xtreme from ebay.

Tools:
Torx T50.
10mm socket
various screwdrivers
Utility knife, roller tool, GLOVES

Procedure:
1. Remove side lower trim pieces. Front to rear, pry up the white fasteners w/screwdriver trying to NOT break the black trim piece. The B pillar lower trim piece hooks onto the fabric coated B pillar piece with slots, don't break them. Sliding the seat forward helps. Pry loose the rear lower trim piece, but don't remove it. We won't be taking out the vertical rear seat today.

2. T50 to the 2 bolts at the REAR of the front seats. Pop the plastic cover off the horizontal one.
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260539.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260539/)http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260540.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260540/)

Unclip 2 connectors up front (one grey, one yellow).
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260538.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260538/)

Grab and lift the rear of the seat, it unhooks and slides backward.
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260537.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260537/)

Lift it out carefully, it is HEAVY, i estimate 70lbs. It was all i could do to lift it. Seriously.

3. Remove the 2 front carpet pieces.
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260536.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260536/)

4. Pop off the 4 round plastic covers rear of center console, 10mm socket to remove 4 rear, 2 front screws from console.
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260534.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260534/)

I popped up the shifter boot but couldn't get the knob off. Unplug a connector driver's front of console, slide it up and off the shift knob.

5. remove rear seat cushion by pulling up the front edge, remove rear carpet.

urbanski
01-25-06, 06:00 PM
6. Notice that Cadillac put 1 piece of deadener in at the factory (arrow). YAY.
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260527.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260527/)http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260528.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260528/)http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260529.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260529/)http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260530.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260530/)

7. Carefully not covering holes you need for reinstall, have fun w/ deadener wearing your gloves.
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260531.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260531/)http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260532.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260532/)http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260533.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260533/)
8. All goes right back together. Trim pieces last, they are tough to get back in.

Observations: That's alot of bare sheet metal transmitting road and exhaust noise right into our cabins. I applied 2 sheets at least to everything and still have at least 20ft left over from the 62ft roll. I stayed away from they yellow air bag unit, and the black yaw sensor.
The RAAMmat is new to me, and is very STICKY. More so than Damplifier, equal to Xtreme. I had to push down some previously-applied Damplifier but the Xtreme was perfect.

I did discover a mystery. There was a male connector hanging unconnected under the center console right side. I could find no "mate" for it anywhere. It has green, grey, and another wire coming from it which headed back to the right rear fuse box. Everything seems to work well on my car but the front cig lighter, but I saw no connector for that. It didn't seem StabiliTrak related so I can't blame that for my crashes.
http://i4.cashmoneyuploads.com/tn/260535.jpg (http://www.cashmoneyuploads.com/view/v260535/)

urbanski
01-25-06, 06:05 PM
Time: 8 hours
Difficulty: 3
Beers: 2
Worth it: hell yeah, every time i put more deadener in it tames the beast that much more.


ADDED WEIGHT: I was asked why I am "slowing down" my car.
62.5sqft RAAMmat was 26lbs, of which I only used 2/3 today, 15lbs.
38sqft Dyanmat Xtreme was 25lbs, as was 38ft Damplifier Pro.
I'm approaching 300 ft of this stuff now. Plan to use the remaining RAAM to do the UNDERside and more on my rear deck to calm my mighty subwoofer rattles. :)

Here is my rear seat writeup:
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/rearseatsounddead/index.html


peace

heavymetals
01-25-06, 06:19 PM
You may as well install a small nuclear reactor with all that lead shielding!

:histeric:

urbanski
01-25-06, 06:50 PM
here's a smaller thread where I did the A pillars and some rear deck.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60331

DILLIGAF
01-25-06, 07:26 PM
You are a sound deadening psycho URB.I am glad because i'm ready to install my new cp33 speakers.Best place to buy dynamat for the doors?Keep up the good work I think.I'll wait to see if you get it all back together.

urbanski
01-25-06, 07:50 PM
yeah its back together, nothing broke, no sense to post pics of her together...looks the same as everyone elses :D

ebay for dynamat if you go with that product.

CIWS
01-25-06, 08:02 PM
Dang Urbi, that's some time and effort invested there, good job.
Now I have to ask the 10,000 dollar question. Did you take some sound level measurements before and after to compare the Db difference ?

JRoller
01-25-06, 11:10 PM
Me too! Me too! It's worth every square foot.

ssmith100
01-25-06, 11:41 PM
One of these days I'll show you how an anal retentive guy does this stuff. I'm still coming in second behind Urb.Shane

ctsvett
01-26-06, 02:01 AM
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/sounddead/

Thanks urby!

Reed

ctsvett
01-26-06, 02:16 AM
Urby,
Where is that "unconnected" connector? Can you tell me what color wires are coming out of it?

I did some searching and I think I might know what it could be.... It could be "interesting" or just a Base CTS leftover (sport mode switch for the auto tranny)...

let me know cause I want to chase this down.

Reed

heavymetals
01-26-06, 02:23 AM
Great looking installs!!

One question.

I had no idea DYNAMAT was so addictive, how do you keep it lit? :bonkers:

ewill3rd
01-26-06, 07:09 AM
Does that connector go into the console?
There are typically 2 connectors on CTS that come from the console harness and attach to connections in the dash.
One is on the right and one is on the left but they are in slightly different positions. I think I remember seeing the grey one on the left side, but it's up higher and farther back than the matching one on the right. It's waaaaay up on the left side and you can't really even see it unless you get your head down by the brake pedal and look way up behind the radio area.
On the V there should only be 1 or 2 wires in there for either connector.
On the regular CTS with an auto trans you'll find a lot more wires.
I'll see if I can snap a photo of it today.

Lindsay Cadillac
01-26-06, 07:43 AM
I think Reed is right. That appears to be connector C312 which is for automatic transmissions in the CTS. The green wire is the Winter Mode signal input and the gray wire is the Sport Mode signal input.

Connector Part Information
• 7282-6459-40
• 10-Way M YESC (GY)

Pin -- Wire Color -- Circuit No. -- Function
1 -- BK -- 450 -- Ground
2 -- BK/WH -- 451 -- Ground (M82)
3 -- L-GN -- 5053 -- Winter Mode Switch Signal
4 -- PU -- 2056 -- Auxiliary Video High Signal (U2Y/U2X)
5 -- -- -- -- -- Not Used
6 -- GY -- 5054 -- Sport Mode Switch Signal (M82)
7 -- BARE -- 814 -- Drain Wire (U2Y/U2X)
8 -- WH -- 2058 -- Auxiliary Audio Right Signal (U2Y/U2X)
9 -- YE -- 2059 -- Auxiliary Audio Left Signal (U2Y/U2X)
10 -- BARE -- 814 -- Drain Wire (U2Y/U2X)

urbanski
01-26-06, 08:41 AM
Me too! Me too! It's worth every square foot.
sure is
what product did you use??

urbanski
01-26-06, 08:42 AM
One of these days I'll show you how an anal retentive guy does this stuff. I'm still coming in second behind Urb.Shane
you brat ;)
I searched for these exact pics before I started and you removed them!!
I wanted to see if you covered certain holes or not :p

Now I see I did about the same as you :)

urbanski
01-26-06, 08:44 AM
I think Reed is right. That appears to be connector C312 which is for automatic transmissions in the CTS. The green wire is the Winter Mode signal input and the gray wire is the Sport Mode signal input.

Connector Part Information
7282-6459-40
10-Way M YESC (GY)

Pin -- Wire Color -- Circuit No. -- Function
1 -- BK -- 450 -- Ground
2 -- BK/WH -- 451 -- Ground (M82)
3 -- L-GN -- 5053 -- Winter Mode Switch Signal
4 -- PU -- 2056 -- Auxiliary Video High Signal (U2Y/U2X)
5 -- -- -- -- -- Not Used
6 -- GY -- 5054 -- Sport Mode Switch Signal (M82)
7 -- BARE -- 814 -- Drain Wire (U2Y/U2X)
8 -- WH -- 2058 -- Auxiliary Audio Right Signal (U2Y/U2X)
9 -- YE -- 2059 -- Auxiliary Audio Left Signal (U2Y/U2X)
10 -- BARE -- 814 -- Drain Wire (U2Y/U2X)
Does that connector go into the console?
There are typically 2 connectors on CTS that come from the console harness and attach to connections in the dash.
One is on the right and one is on the left but they are in slightly different positions. I think I remember seeing the grey one on the left side, but it's up higher and farther back than the matching one on the right. It's waaaaay up on the left side and you can't really even see it unless you get your head down by the brake pedal and look way up behind the radio area.
On the V there should only be 1 or 2 wires in there for either connector.
On the regular CTS with an auto trans you'll find a lot more wires.
I'll see if I can snap a photo of it today.



:worship:
Thanks you guys :)

urbanski
01-26-06, 08:47 AM
Dang Urbi, that's some time and effort invested there, good job.
Now I have to ask the 10,000 dollar question. Did you take some sound level measurements before and after to compare the Db difference ?
no Db meter :( that would have been perfect.
All I have is my SOTE (seat of the ears) meter and every single deadening project I have done has tamed the noise.
This project has revealed I still have road noise coming from the lower doors, side mirrors, and A-pillars.
I cant deaden the As anymore or the trim wont fit back on.
I'll do the doors/side mirrors (again-third time) with the Dynamat Xtreme I have coming from ebay :p

ewill3rd
01-26-06, 08:53 AM
That does look like C312, but it should still have a mate.
The push in fastener should go in the hole just above and to the left of the connector in that picture, the mating half should be underneath the console coming from the console harness.
Again, if I get my hands on one I'll get a photo.

urbanski
01-26-06, 09:02 AM
That does look like C312, but it should still have a mate.
The push in fastener should go in the hole just above and to the left of the connector in that picture, the mating half should be underneath the console coming from the console harness.
Again, if I get my hands on one I'll get a photo.
don't worry about it :)
i think James nailed it as a leftover from the Auto CTS.
There is definitely no mate running in the console, but there is a "space" for it....i'd imagine with a slushbox stick there its mate would appear :)
:cheers:

ssmith100
01-26-06, 11:50 AM
Urb,

It's amazing how quieting down those areas has made the noise around the front A-pillars and windshield seem so bad. Doing the floor pan and the tunnel I think makes the biggest difference of all the deadening. Still need to do my rear doors. I've got one more box of Dynamat Extreme left so most of it will go there. I think the Dynamat is far superior to the Second skin. I've got places were the Second skin has come loose a bit and I've had to push it back down. When the Extreme goes on, it stays on. Working some more on my stereo installation this weekend. Slowly but surely.

Shane