My dash is starting to curl up on the edges. I read some posts and it seems this is a common problem. I took the dash out of the car this weekend and tried to glue the cover back down. This didn't work...the covering appears to have shrunk. What I really want to know is what my plan of action should be. I plan on keeping my car for at least another 4 years. Should I just buy a new dash pad or should I take it to the dealership and have them fix it? Help!

Interesting. I noticed this on my 00 Deville DHS as well. Not curling to bad
barley noticeable yet...

My dash started out like that; just curling up a little, but it got progressively worse. I think the heat this summer made mine worse. I wonder how much a new dash pad costs?

Sorry about the lack of illustrations, this is how we fix them.
Experience helps.
There is a limit of how bad these can be and still be fixable.


Instrument Panel (IP) Upper Trim Panel and Defroster Grille Lifting/Loose/Warping (Apply Adhesive) #01-08-49-013B - (Nov 26, 2002)
Instrument Panel (IP) Upper Trim Panel and Defroster Grille Lifting/Loose/Warping (Apply Adhesive)
1997-2003 Cadillac DeVille

This bulletin is being revised to include the ends of the trim pad to the repair. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-49-013A (Section 08-Body & Accessories).

Condition
Some customers may comment that the IP upper trim panel in the area of the windshield defroster grille or at the ends of the trim pad appear to be lifting/loose/warping. This may be especially noticeable on the RH side of the IP upper trim panel.

Cause
This condition may be due to the IP upper trim panel's skin and foam separating from the panel's plastic sub-structure around the windshield defroster grille opening and the speaker grille opening.

Correction
Apply adhesive between the IP upper trim panel's skin and foam to the top surface of the panel's plastic sub-structure around the windshield defroster and speaker grille openings.

Repair Procedure
Important: During the repair procedure, it is very important to keep the IP Upper Trim Panel warm, especially the areas that are being repaired.


Important: Upper repair shown; repair to the end is similar.


Remove the IP upper trim panel. Refer to Trim Pad Replacement - IP Upper (DeVille) in the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console sub-section of the Service Manual for the removal procedure.
Lay the IP upper trim panel on a clean flat surface.



From the top surface of the IP upper trim panel's plastic sub-structure (1), at the windshield defroster grille opening, remove all of the old adhesive tape.
Lift up the skin and foam (2) and use a flat, bladed scraper to remove as much of the tape as possible.
Use 3M® General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, P/Ns 8984, 8986, 8987, or equivalent, to ensure all of the tape and adhesive is removed.
If the skin and foam of the IP upper trim panel has separated from the panel's plastic sub-structure beyond the defroster grille opening, remove the old adhesive from the uncovered surfaces using the adhesive cleaner.
Remove the speaker grille.
If the skin and foam has separated from the panel's plastic sub-structure around the speaker grille opening, remove the old adhesive from the uncovered surfaces (3) using the adhesive cleaner.



Apply medium to high heat across the top surface of the IP upper trim panel above the areas (4) where the skin and foam has separated from the panel's plastic sub-structure. Apply low to medium heat across the top surface of the IP upper trim panel above the defroster and speaker grille areas.
As the top surface cools, at the defroster grille edge (5), carefully pull on the panel's cover in order to stretch and smooth out the skin and foam. With the other hand, use a clean shop towel and rub across the panel's cover to ensure a smooth flat surface.
Beyond the defroster grille opening, along the top surface of the panel's plastic sub-structure:
Apply adhesive such as 3M® Quick Fix Adhesive (Cyanoacrylate), P/N 08155, or an equivalent.
Apply pressure to the top surface of the IP upper trim panel along the areas where the adhesive was applied.
As the adhesive dries, use a clean shop towel and rub across the top surface to ensure a smooth flat surface.
At the speaker grille opening:
- Apply adhesive along the top surface of the panel's plastic sub-structure.

- Apply pressure to the top surface of the IP upper trim panel along the areas where the adhesive was applied.

- Use binder clips to hold the skin and foam in place.

Start at one end of the defroster grille opening and generously apply a 15-20 cm (6-8 in) length of the quick fix adhesive along the top surface of the IP trim panel.



Use the palm of one hand to press and hold the IP upper trim panel's skin and foam to the panel's adhesive covered top surface.
With the thumb of your other hand (6) or with the end of a wooden ruler, apply pressure back and forth along the area where the adhesive was applied in order to work it into the inside edge of the panel's skin and foam. Do this for approximately 2 minutes.
Start at the end of the last application of adhesive and apply another 15-20 cm (6-8 in) length of adhesive along the top surface of the IP trim panel. Repeat Steps 12 and 13.
Repeat Step 14 as necessary.
Install the IP upper trim panel. Refer to Trim Pad Replacement - IP Upper (DeVille) in the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console sub-section of the Service Manual for the installation procedure.



If the defroster grille is loose and will not stay in position:
- Apply a very small amount of clear silicone adhesive on the defroster grille edge nearest the windshield (7).

- Install the defroster grille. Apply pressure to the top surface of the defroster grille along the areas where the adhesive was applied.

- If necessary, lift up the edge of the defroster grille nearest the speaker grille and apply one drop of the quick fix adhesive to both ends and at the center of the defroster grille. As the adhesive dries, apply pressure.

I appreciate that ewill3rd! I'm going to try it that way this weekend when I have some spare time. Could I get this fixed at the dealer for free? Maybe a recall or something?

If the car is under warranty they will repair or replace it at no charge to you using this procedure.
It's not a recall so if you are out of warranty, you are pretty much on your own.
Make sure to try to use the adhesives and prep materials they recommend.

lol thats why i got my front wind sheild tinted. to protect my dash and reduce heat.

In many states tinting the front glass is illegal.
My '92 olds did the same thing though.
I had it fixed once and put a dashmat on it to protect it.

ewill3rd, is there any way that you could get me a part number for the dash? I think I just may get a new one if they aren't to costly.

You'd have to call a parts department with the last 8 digits of the VIN so they can match the interior color.
I would just have to get your info and call my parts guy and ask him the same questions.

Any GM dealer should be able to give you list price.
The last 8 of the VIN let them identify the specific options on your car including the interior color.
I think they run around 400 bucks, but I have never really priced one for sure.
I hope for your sake it's cheaper than that but don't be surprised if it isn't.

i asked my dealer, because i have the same deal on my DTS, caused by the heat, :/ they said it was goona run about 2 hundo for the acctual part but the labor was 300! so ill just buy the part and find soemone who kinwos what they are doing. The dealers rape you badly as we know.

If you buy the part, let me know, I'll tell you how to replace it.
It's pretty easy and all you need is a 7mm head nut driver and a little magnet.
I use a 7mm magnetic socket but not everyone has one of those.
Oh, you might need a small screwdriver, a shop cloth and a pair of needle nose pliers.

If you buy the part, let me know, I'll tell you how to replace it.
It's pretty easy and all you need is a 7mm head nut driver and a little magnet.
I use a 7mm magnetic socket but not everyone has one of those.
Oh, you might need a small screwdriver, a shop cloth and a pair of needle nose pliers.

And a potato and some nail polish....oops, that's something else.

It is really easy to replace - $300 is a lot of money considering the labor (or lack thereof) involved. The hardest part is getting the vents out. The rest is cake. The magnetic socket makes it easier to get the screws out, but it's much more fun to drop them into the bowels of the dash and fish them out.

My DTS dash was warped, too. I figured it was because it was sleeping with the fishes, but it turns out that lots of them are that way. I used a 3M spray trim adhesive to stick it back down. No problems yet - going on a year so far.

Jim

Actually the shop cloth and the needle nose reduce the vent extraction time to about 90 seconds, but you have to be careful.
The rest is even easier.
I am not sure why they would charge 300 unless your local labor rate is REALLY high. I'd say it's probably less than 2 hours for a novice, let alone what it would take for a pro.

My 2000 Deville dash was also doing the same thing, thanks ewill3rd, I'll try that out ASAP.

man, im having this same problem, and my fasteners are already in the bowels hahaha, so i gotta get the pad off soon, the only problem is, i cant get the last vent out, the one at the far left by the light controls,

ewill3rd, do you have access to all TSB's?

man, im having this same problem, and my fasteners are already in the bowels hahaha, so i gotta get the pad off soon, the only problem is, i cant get the last vent out, the one at the far left by the light controls,

ewill3rd, do you have access to all TSB's?

That one comes out the same was as the rest of them you just have to work at it. I use a small screwdriver and a small pair of needlenose pliers (as ewill3rd mentions). Pry one of the tabs with the screw driver and simultaneously lift the other with the pliers. If you could grow a 3rd arm and hand it would be much easier.

Jim

after those couple of 7mm screws....what else is needed to do to get the dash off?

Remove the defroster grille, there are 3 10mm bolts up there, plus the A-pillar trim needs to be removed, then lift up on the front edge (4 7mm screws, on in each vent) and pull the dash towards you to disengage the pins on the forward edge.

oh ok....so the grill just pops out too. thanks

Yes it does but it's a pain, be careful not to crack it or to pry against the dash pad or you might leave a "dent".

I also have the curling edges on the dash of my 2000 Cadillac Deville DTS. I was thinking about trying the trim adhesive just to get by without much work.

I also have the curling edges on the dash of my 2000 Cadillac Deville DTS. I was thinking about trying the trim adhesive just to get by without much work.

That's the way to go. Unless the dash pad is damaged, there's no reason to replace it. The new one will probably do the same thing eventually anyway. Like I said earlier in this thread, I used 3M's General Trim Adhesive almost 2 years ago and it's been fine.

Jim

wat if i took it to the local upholstery shop and had them cover it in leather (with stitching maybe on the edges), would this interfere with airbag operation at all?