: Please help me with maintenence list, Does this sound alright?

01-19-06, 01:01 AM
Hello everyone....

After reading the chilton book I have, this is the list I have down so far for maintenence work.. Please tell me what you think of this list, and if I should add anything else.

Check brakes,

replace air filter,

replace pcv valve,

check and clean flow control valve,

check evaporative canister filter,

oil change and replace filter,

check brake fluid,

check transmission fluid,

check powersteering fluid,

inspect belts,

inspect hoses,

greasing of chassis, steering and parking brake,

and check wheel bearings...

This seems like a very long list and im thinking there might be more?
Id really appreciate any advice or opinions... Thanks...

01-19-06, 07:08 AM
just as important as checking the tranny fluid you should be checking or replacing the rear diff fluid as well. Dont forgot to check or flush the coolant. in a few months and might want to pop in the 160 thermo to prep for this coming summer.Also let the car idle and run the AC so that the fluid gets some activity. AC needs to run atleast once a month.

01-19-06, 08:06 AM
Don't put a 160* stat on a stock motor. The stock temp (195*) is fine unless your radiator is clogged. Running the motor at a cooler temperature decreases ring seal and will hasten engine wear.
Dunno why to bother checking the evap cannister - don't think there are replacements readily available.
In addition to checking the brake fluid, I'd bleed the brakes. Brake fluid absorbs moisture very readily, which decreases the boiling point of the brake fluid. Boiling brake fluid = no brakes.
Also check the antifreeze for freezing point. Might just want to go a coolant flush/fill with a new 'stat and radiator cap.
Change fuel filter
Inspect tires for uneven wear (indication of alignment problems)
Check car for pulling / wandering
Check all lights (tail, brake, reverse, hi/lo beams, blinkers), check all fuses.

01-19-06, 11:33 AM
While checking your brakes i would take the rear drums apart. The auto adjust most likely is not working like its brand new. Take the star wheel assembly out, completely unthread it, neverseize it, run the threads in and out a couple of times to make sure they are operating smoothly, reinstall and then manaully adjust with a brake spoon. Once its driveable, for safe measure do a couple of hard reverse stops to make sure the drums are completely adjusted. Most people dont like drums... usually because they dont fully understand how they work... they need some TLC every once and a while!

And as Blueeyes said... its important that you bleed the brakes unless you know when it was last done. Brakes should be bled once a year... even florida cars have their brakelines corrode through just because this maintenance hasn't been done. It seems like everything else has been covered.

PS always leave one drum assembled for referencing!!!!

01-19-06, 03:41 PM
check rear differential fluid,

flush coolant,

check a/c,

bleed brakes,

replace fuel filter,

check lights and fuses....

ok, thanks for the info fellas, anything else?

Oh yeah, I wont be doing any of this myself because Im a noob at cars, so I would probably break something even though I have a chilton book.... If I brought this list to a repair shop, would they do it? Around how long would it take and how much do you think it would cost?

01-20-06, 01:06 AM
check rear differential fluid,

flush coolant,

check a/c,

bleed brakes,

replace fuel filter,

check lights and fuses....

ok, thanks for the info fellas, anything else?

Oh yeah, I wont be doing any of this myself because Im a noob at cars, so I would probably break something even though I have a chilton book.... If I brought this list to a repair shop, would they do it? Around how long would it take and how much do you think it would cost?

:bonkers: :bonkers: This is EASY stuff! If you do all this by yourself you can save ALOT of money. Any shop is gonna buzz through the list you bring them and do everything half ass and even likely to not do something on the list. The best way is just to get on the job yourself. If you need help just ask us! Thats why this forum is here! Save some money for pete sake! :crying2:

terrible one
01-20-06, 08:19 AM

Seriously, for all of this stuff there are either great walkthroughs posted or many who can tell you how. This way you save money, you learn something, and you KNOW that everything was taken care of.

01-20-06, 10:18 AM
Oh yeah, I wont be doing any of this myself because Im a noob at cars, so I would probably break something even though I have a chilton book.... If I brought this list to a repair shop, would they do it? Around how long would it take and how much do you think it would cost?

Sure, the repair shop wuld do it - at $60/hr! :eek:

Only way you'll get past the noob stage is to go get dirty! (actually, I've been spoiled by nitrile gloves lately)

About the only thing where you'd really need to be careful about not messing something up is the fuel filter. Gotta use two wrenches to remove the fuel line or else you'll kink it. (on the front of the carb there's two nuts where the fuel line enters - hold the big wrench still, loosen the smaller nut. Once the fuel line is off, them remove the big nut and the filter is behind it. make sure you don't lose the spring either)

Anything you're particularly worried about? Lots of guys here to fill you in. Seriously, you'll go broke with classic cars unless you're fablously wealthy or do your own work.

The Ape Man
01-20-06, 11:56 AM
Anything you're particularly worried about? Lots of guys here to fill you in. Seriously, you'll go broke with classic cars unless you're fablously wealthy or do your own work.

That is the truth. You have to be handy to own a car like this. Otherwise you will pour money into it sooner or later. Right now you seem to have no issues with the car and are trying to keep it that way. This is a good idea but the people working on it are not likely to be familiar with cars this old. You can figure that for every 5 things they work on 1 or 2 will need attention later.
Nothing worse than having to change a heater core because some heavy handed meck-a-nick leaned on the heater hose while pulling the spark plugs.

Best of luck.

01-20-06, 03:04 PM
yes, im not handy at all when i comes to cars, Im a great driver, but thats about it.

When I look under the hood, I have no idea whats going on.

Yes, there isnt anything wrong with my car as of this moment, and id like to keep it like that. But its winter over here and I dont have a garage so working on it now is kinda out of the question. Just need to do the maintenence but I guess it will have to wait until spring....

I really appreciate all of the comments and advice fellas....

01-21-06, 10:32 AM
yes, im not handy at all when i comes to cars, Im a great driver, but thats about it.

You weren't born a great driver either, if you get my drift.

Lots of this stuff can (and maybe should) be done soon.

- Check brakes,

Fronts are easy. Jack up car and remove wheel. On one side of the outboard brake pad there is a little metal thing sticking out. This is designed to rub the rotor when the pads get low. The clearance between this and the rotor is about how much you have left. To be sure (because sometinmes the inside and outside pads don't wear evenly) look at the rotor edge-on through the opening in the caliper. There you can see the thickness of both pads (might need a rag to wipe off grime) if they both look even and have a fair amount of thickness, you're set.

- replace air filter

buy new air filter, remove aircleaner wingnut (big round thing in the middle of the engine), remove filter lid, replace filter, put filter lid and wingnut back on

- replace pcv valve,

These basically just slip in. It will be on one valve cover or the other. Pop it out of the valve cover, pop the other end out of the hose and put the new one in. Sometimes there is a metal clamp around the hose and you might have to use a screwdriver to remove that.

- check and clean flow control valve,

Actually, I'm not sure what you mean by flow controll valve. Flow of what?

- check evaporative canister filter,

eh, just leave it. Dunno how to check it, don't think you can buy a replacement if it is bad. Just leave it alone because it is part of the venting for the gas tank.

- oil change and replace filter,

Chiltons covers this pretty well. Just be sure to mostly fill the filter before putting it on so the engine doesn't have to run as long before oil pressure comes back up.

- check brake fluid,

for starters, just clean off the brake master cylinder cover (it's near the firewall on the drivers side) and check the fluid level in each part. They should be mostly full.

- check transmission fluid,

With tranny warm (15-20 minutes of driving) put it in park, and with the engine running, check the tranny dipstick. Add Dexron tranny fluid as needed.

- check powersteering fluid,

engine running and warm, just pop the lid on the power steering reservoir. The lid has the dipstick on it.

- inspect belts,

look for cracked rubber, frayed edges, missing teeth. Chiltons usually ha a few diagrams of bad belts. On my car I just replaced these because they're cheap and quick to do.

- inspect hoses,

again, cracked rubber or fraying is a sign of age. Also, where they connect look for a swolen or bulged-out hose. Those are the ones that could burst and leave you stranded. Again, check chiltons for diagrams.

- greasing of chassis, steering and parking brake,

Get a mini-lube gun, flex hose to go with it, and a cartridge of chassis lube with moly. Ask the guys at the parts store, they should be able to help you and might even help get the gun loaded and primed after you've bought it. If they won't even help you buy the stuff, consider another parts store...
You really want that flex hose to reach stuff without having to jack up the car.
Now, there are potentially 11 grease points in the front suspension. Some might be factory sealed and not have a grease nipple though, so there could be fewer. Greasing is easy: use a rag and wipe off the grease nipple, clip on the grease gun and give it a few squirts.
So, where to lube:
upper and lower balljoints: At the end of their respective a-arms, out by the wheel.
Inner and outer tie rod ends: The rod that goes out towards the tire and connects to the steering knuckle on one end, the centerlink on the other
Idler and pittman arms: idler arm is on passengers side, greased where it meets the center link and back by the frame, pittman arm is drivers side, greased where it meets the center link. It's bolted to the steering box on the other end, so no grease point there.

- check wheel bearings.

This will be more involved, because we'll also check for bad balljoints or tie rod ends.
Use a floor jack and jack the car up by the lower a-arm. Put the jack as far out on the a-arm as you can for stability.
Remove the tire.
First test upper and lower balljoints. Grab the steering knuckle and try to rock the top end in and out. It should not move. Now, try to rock the bottom end in and out, shouldn't move either.
Now, check tie-rod ends. Try to "steer" the steering knuckle. Shouldn't move. If it does, look at the steering linkage as you pull on the knuckle and try to see which parts are loose. You can also go and grab each tie rod end and try to shift it around.
Now, finally, for the wheelbearings. Grab the rotor and try to rock it back and forth. Should stay still. Also when you spin it, it should not feel rough. It might take some force to spin, but the feeling should be even.
Hey, while we're down here, the chiltons manual covers repacking the wheelbearings. If you've got some tools, go for it, it's easy.
It is also pretty easy to combine greasing the chassis with this because you won't have to crawl under the car as much with the tire off.

01-21-06, 12:30 PM
whoa, thanks for the walkthrough blueyes....

Ill probably start trying to do this stuff when it gets a little warmer outside, right now everything out there is covered in 5+ inches of snow.

But on a side note, something is wrong with my brakes, I noticed this again when I was driving to put my car in a garage we rented.

It has happened before, ill be pressing down the brakes around halfway trying to stop, and the pedal sinks in and the brakes dont work. This happened around 3 times all times in the last couple weeks at slow speeds.

I dont really understand whats going on because the brakes work after it happens.

It happened once when I started the car, started to drive for about 1 second because there is a stopsign where i park, and when I came to stop the brake wasnt working so I had to turn. There was a group of school children in front of me. Then the brakes started to work down the block.

And when it happened to me yesterday, I was trying to manuver the car into the garage and I had my foot halfway on the brake, then my car started to roll and I had the brake floored and the car kept rolling, almost into the garageowners car. I had to pump to get it to stop.

So does anyone know what this is al about? It seems like maybe the brake was slipping because of snow, but I think it happened to me once when it was dry also.

01-21-06, 12:57 PM
heh, didn't realize that post was quite so long. No trouble helping out, just trying to keep you from being another guy who gets taken advantage of and overcharged by joe mechanic at the shop. You've just gotta develop the attitude that everyone in a repair shop learned how to do this stuff at some time, so you can too.

Anyways, those brakes definately need attention. First, check the fluid level. If the fluid is low (like, really low) it could cause that. You might also try bleeding the brakes, but I'm betting you are in need of a new master cylinder.
If you haven't already, get that chiltons manual. I think we're mostly stuck with the "1967-1989 rear wheel drive models" manual. It lumps alot of stuff together, but is fine for basic stuff like this. Later on you'll probably want a factory shop manual for your car.
Anyways, the chiltons has a good description of how the brake system operates. Don't worry, it's easy to understand, so even if you had troubles with Physics class you should be able to manage :) The manual covers brake bleeding, but I preferr to buy a "one man bleeder" setup and use that instead of the two-person way they reccomend.
The brake system is really pretty simple, just remember to stay clean, NEVER re-use brake fluid, and buy brake fluid in the small containers (just get more of them). Storing opened containers of brake fluid long-term is a bad idea because this stuff loves to absorb moisture. And, of course, after any brake work take it on a test drive in a safe area to be sure it's good.

01-21-06, 03:30 PM
long posts are good though, good info....

What is a master cylinder? A little info about my car...

My coupe deville is in excellent condition, I bought it a few weeks ago from a guy that told me it has never been driven in the winter. Well that was until I got it.

It is in really, really good shape though. It has just over 87,000 miles on it, everything looks like it has been sitting in a garage most of its life. The leather interior is in almost perfect conditon. theres just one small crack in a door panel that can get fixed easily. Even the hubcaps look new and they're original. The car runs very nice... A friend told me it could have been snow making the brakes slip, but then why would the pedal sink when i was hardly even moving, the car was rolling by its own weight. But then soon after I pumped they worked again. Maybe it is brake fluid?

01-21-06, 04:43 PM
Well you press a pedal which in turn pushes a rod that is connected to the vacuum booster (if you look under your dash you can see the linkage to the vacuum booster) So when your car is on it puts vacuum inside this booster mechanism by sucking air out through a check valve (one way flow). All of this vacuum in the booster assists YOU in operating the master cylinder.
Think of the master cylinder as a saringe only with two outlets. You press pedal...presses vacuum booster..presses master cylinder piston...this then presses out brakefluid out the lines and to the calipers, wheelcylinders. Now you see how the pads squeeze the discs and such. This whole assembly is located in the upper right section of the firewall (right above where the brake pedal would be).

terrible one
01-21-06, 05:00 PM
Yep, should be easy to locate on drivers side of firewall

The Ape Man
01-21-06, 09:41 PM
Pedal sinking to floor and then sometimes working OK. Classic symptom of master cylinder failure.

01-22-06, 04:50 PM
Well, it only happened 3 times, and I have been driving it everyday for the last couple weeks and the brakes worked fine...

someone told me there could be air in the brakelines or that they might have to be bled like you all said....

thanks for the info and advice so far fellas, i appreciate it...
Im not going to drive it anymore until I get this checked out.