: 68 Fleetwood Electrical Problems



Lskustumz
01-14-06, 10:06 PM
Hey guys, Im a bit a of newbie so please bare with me. I have 1968 Fleetwood Brougham that for some strange reason lost power to all accessoreis, lights, opera lights, heater blower, etc. The strange thing is that the engine temp light comes on when the ignition is on and I turn on the lights or try to operate the windows. I am at a total loss.:banghead: I tried the ignition switch and it was good, traced the wires through the firewall and still nothing. The bottom 4 fuses on the panel, including the window breaker, have less voltage, 11.8 versus the top with 12.5. The engine still runs good and headlights and blinkers work and all fuses are good. All the windows worked before, wing windows and power seat all that stuff. Any help at all will be greatly appreciated!!

DaveSmed
01-14-06, 10:41 PM
How did you check the ignition switch? It sounds like it might be working, but on stuff like this, it's not enough to check for voltage, or to just check continuity. You need to place the circut under load and check.

The engine temp light is a funky circut, it has constant power so it can serve as a key reminder as well. Do you by chance have a water leak by the drivers footwell? There's a few relays under there that aren't sealed too well that are susceptible to corrosion. Let me know what you find, I'll try to dig up more when i find my factory service manual.

Lskustumz
01-14-06, 11:16 PM
That would be awesome, I checked the switch by taking it out of the dash pulling off the harness and checking voltage, there was no sign of burning or anything. How would I go about checking it under a load? It did rain pretty hard out here in Socal las week and it does have a leak, but not on the drivers side, at least not to my knowledge. Where are the relays that might be susceptible? And the windows did have a hard time going up, when they did, it put a pretty heavy load on the electircal system, I have an Optima yellow top, and a cap for a stereo that helps with larger loads but still, I hav a Powermaster alternator coming next week to help with the loads. But its no good without any electricity going to them!!:ill:

DaveSmed
01-15-06, 05:53 PM
Powermaster is a good alt, but I bet it is overkill in your setup. Did you opt for the three wire? If not you lose your charging warning light "GEN". If you didn't get it yet, you could try ordering a Delco 10SI alternator, a popular upgrade a lot of people on here have done.

I went to look at the wiring diagrams today after finding my FSM for the car, and it turns out that I need a new book. It got soaked in gas from a recent collision I was in, and all the pages ink bled and stuck together. (not to mention it reeks) Jtraik has the same book I had, he might be able to help narrow down the common point in those circuts. When the engine temp light is on, what happens when you beep the horn?

Lskustumz
01-15-06, 10:04 PM
It has an aftermarket steering wheel, the horn is on a separate circuit. The Engine temp light turns on when the lights are on or when there is a draw. I bought myself a factory service manual today, 75 bux, but I think it is well spent. I just don't know where to start in the book.
I got a special harness for it but not sure if it is the three wire, I think it is because it will still use the same wiring that was original in the car.

DaveSmed
01-16-06, 01:41 PM
If its a three wire, your going to need to wire one of the terminals from the back of the alternaror to the regulator harness for the GEN light.

You have a FSM? Good buy! Might i suggest starting with the chassis electrical diagrams? (toward the back, I forget what page) Follow the circuts from the trouble areas (BOTH power and ground) back through the electrical system a bit, looking for common connections shared by the affected circuts. With the way the diagrams are, I use a colored pencil (erasable) and a ruler, because as you'll see, the diagrams are a little hard to follow visually. The entire car is on two pages!

Lskustumz
01-17-06, 01:43 AM
I will definitely look at the back, I haven't gotten the alternator yet but I will check and make sure I make the correct connections, I hope that everything as well as the stereo system will operate much more efficiently than before. Just yesterday, all the electrical accessories came back on, I have no idea why or how but I need to trace out why it would do that. I think it might be the fusible links but I will for sure keep checking in. Thanks a lot.

DaveSmed
01-17-06, 01:46 PM
I was thinking the same thing with the fusible links. It doesn't say where you live, but if its in the "salt belt", keep in mind the main power junction for the car is at the starter. If one of the links had a crack in the insulation, the wire could have corroded internally, or the connection itself might be dirty. Downside is, its not especially fun to get to to work on. I had to rewire that entire area and rerouted it when the wires contacted my exhaust, melted, and shorted out starting a nice little campfire under my hood. :suspense:

Lskustumz
01-17-06, 05:32 PM
Yeah, I will have to do a close inspection of the fusible links to see if any of the aforementioned is apparent. But what do the fusible links consist of if I might ask? Is it just a link of wire? I guess the question I am trying to ask is what will I be looking for? thanks

DaveSmed
01-17-06, 09:48 PM
Fusible links are small sections of wire that are on average 4 ga smaller than the wire they protect. They have special fire/melt resistant insulation that is supposed to contain the burnt wire when they do blow. Legnth matters, typically when replacing them you should try to get replacements that are as close to the originals as possible. To check them, pull on the wires. if its stretchy like a rubber band, it burnt internally.

Lskustumz
02-02-06, 07:35 PM
Can I get the fusible links at any other auto parts place or do I have to make my own, if so how do I. All the power came back suddenly one day driving, I put the powermaster alternator in it and man that thing cranks out amps like no other, very much worth the money. Anyhow the thing, whatever it was, blew again, this time when I hit the power seat button it went out. I think there might be short in the seat but still not sure. Any other recommendations that you might have in trying to fix this problem? Thanx