I just stole a new nitrous kit still in the box for $175.00. It's a dry kit with just one 80HP Jet so I will need a new Jet for 150HP, and then the install. Anyone have a idea on how much it should cost to install this kit. I called one place and they said 1,800 just to install. I just laughed and hung up on them.
So how much should it cost. It's just a basic kit.

Not too sure I would want to go over 100 with a dry shot without some sort of tuning or fuel being added somehow. I suggest trying the 80 shot out first.

But 1,800??? They wanna suk my what???
What type of system is it?

If it's your typical push button system I wouldn't pay over $300...and that's me REALLY not wanting to do it myself. Dry systems are just way easy to install IMO.

I called one place and they said 1,800 just to install.


That means they didn't want to do it. LOL

If it is NOS, NX, TNT (or any of the other boutique brands)...it is really pretty easy. You mount the bottle, run the line, hook up the solenoids (with teflon paste on threads), install nozzle.

Then run power wires for the solenoids/relay.

In the V...it would be recommended you use a Window Switch to control the RPM in which the N20 can safely activate (3000-6000 is safe). MSD makes one that is popular and can be picked up on various LS boards for $50 used.

I recall NX also makes an activation switch for LS1/LS6 cars with Drive by Wire. This takes a WOT signal from the ECU and grounds the N20 solenoid. Kinda hard to hook up a microswitch at the throttle body when it doesn't have a cable. Some try to place it below the gas pedal, but I think it isn't very clean. DBW switch is probably $100.

A bottle heater would be nice so you can squeeze all the juice out of your bottle on cool nights.

Stay with the 80 shot at first. Keep in mind an 80 HP shot is instant at any RPM. When the hose hits at 3000 RPM, you will get 80 HP and 140 lbft of TORQUE!! I think the cool blast will bring a grin to your face, especially when it is 90 degrees outside. LS6's love a Cold Intake Charge.

As mentioned above, over 100 hp on a dry shot is risky. I would verify the 80 hp jets before trying it out. It only takes one lean "second" to lunch your motor.

The microswitch goes on the gas pedal, you can't see it, I used one for 2 years on a c5, no issues.

I have also been thinking about 100 shot dry. did you guys spray through your air filter into the MAF? Also after running this system do you think its safe? Any long term side effects? Others have told me they think nitrous (within reason) is less harmful then a supercharger or turbo. Would you go this route again? I know there a couple of guys looking into a dryshot. Thanks, Wicked V:burn:

I've been running a 125 dry shot on my 2000 T/A for the last 3 years with no issues. I've seen several others running dry kits for even longer than I with no problems. When you start getting towards the 150 range is when you start to really push the fuel system...NOT a good idea. The only option that IMO is an absolute must is a bottle warmer. A cold bottle and a hot bottle produce radically different performance, especially when the bottle is low. As for RPM switches, its a good idea, but if you're a decent driver and don't miss shifts or lift while shifting, you should be ok.

IMO, I think N20 is far less damaging to internals compared to turbos/blowers. You spray it after the filter, before the MAF.

In reality, install should be no more than $300-$400. Even that is pushing it.

But definitely do it. There is a reason they call it laughing gas. :)

Ladis

interesssssting,
the 80 shot gives you that much torque.
that is more than enough, wow that would make one fast V.

I've got N2O in my other ride :)
Not hard to install yourself.

A lot of the kits produce the claimed HP at the rear wheels. I've been running the Venom 2000 kit for about 4 years now. I run it set around 150 which is the max on the old LT1 it's on. The kit monitors and displays the A/F ratio. You might want to consider a fuel pressure safety switch, it will disable the N20 if the fuel pressure drop, which would cause a lean condition.
Summation,
80 is more than you might think
The only way to be consistent is with a bottle heater
Window switches and fuel pressure switches aren't required, but are good insurance
ALWAYS turn the bottle off when the engine isn't running
In my opinion a 150 shot should get a V in the middle 12's

a64pilot I already have 427RWHP and 380Tq so what kind of times do you think I would get in the 1/4?

a64pilot I already have 427RWHP and 380Tq so what kind of times do you think I would get in the 1/4?
You should be putting close to 500 to the ground with the N20, which if this was an LS1, I would say you would be all over what the bottom end is capable of. Maybe someone with more experience than me will chime in like 10secVette. I'm afraid that at that kind of power engine durability may be an issue. I haven't drag raced My V, I won't. The V's that are should be getting much better times than they are, in my opinion. The same power in an Fbody gives much better times. 500 RWHP in an Fbody put's you well in the 11's, as long as the rest of the car is set up for it. I honestly don't know what a V would do. I suspect that if you really got 500 RWHP hooked up well, you would simply blow the rear end. If it's any consolation the stock 10 bolt in an Fbody won't live long at that power either.
Sorry I couldn't give you any real answer, I just don't have enough V experience to give anything but an opinion, and you know what they are worth.

I won't drag the V! I just like to know what kind of a time I would get for the fun of it. My rear end is already leaking(The one in the V). I will just stick with the 80HP for now just for fun every now and then. It already is very fast with what I have done. As far as the tire hooking up I don't think they will. I can be on the highway going 70MPH and downshift and traction control will come on. So from a stand still ln way will I hook up, plus I don't like the wheel hop that I get so I always feather it out.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b199/CRZY747/trunk.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b199/CRZY747/openbox.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b199/CRZY747/closedvolant.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b199/CRZY747/closedtrunk.jpg

Here is my Quote, the auto bottle opener wouldn't fit the new style bottle at the time so I exchanged it for a full tune.

The NX Dry Kit, MSD Window Switch, NX Bottle Heater w/ Gauge, NX Remote Bottle Opener, and NGK TR-6 Spark Plugs is $966. Complete installation of this kit would be $500. Your total drive-out price would be right around $1,564.95. This included a intall of the Volant.


The car on Motor make 343rwhp and on 100shot made 458 rwhp

You spray it after the filter, before the MAF.


I knew you needed to have it before the sensor, as to allow the engine to read the freezing air so it can add more fuel...but do you have it spraying directly towards the MAS? To me, this seems like it could damage the honeycomb or maybe the sensor wires as there is ALLOT of pressure and volume coming out of the nozzle. But if you've done it with no problems I won't be so worried about trying it.

I've seen them both ways myself, some people spray away from the MAF knowing it will be sucked in anyway,some spray towards the MAF. I haven't seen any difference. Do not spray before the filter, it could freeze it and partially clog it. I wouldn't put the nozzle right on top of the MAF though.
I have a dry kit on a MAFless car, so I had to have a "computerized" kit.

Shooting towards should have some benefit over shooting away, just from the inertia of the gas....I'll see if theres an indirect way I can do this. I have Compucar's bottle in a bag, which has proven itself very useful, even with the occasional rent car :devilheh: but it has a 1/4" hard tube that I can plumb just about anyway I want and the small black plastic tube is easily disguised.

That isn't actually true. You want the N2O to have some room before the MAF to warm a bit and atomize before it hits the MAF sensor. If the nitrous freezes or cools the sensors too much, it won't right either. The guideline is that you really want the jets to be no more than 6 inches close to the MAF sensors.

And so you can see the dyno numbers before and after, here they are. This was when I was running just a 100 shot on my Trans Am.

Dyno Run With All Mods Above @ 16,500 Miles: 340RWHP and 348RWTQ

Dyno Run With All Mods Above And Nitrous Miles: 404RWHP and 475RWTQ

TORQUE RULES.

Ladis