: Towing with your Cadillac??

12-18-05, 07:00 PM
This is a good forum, http://towrig.com/forums/register.php?referrerid=990, stop on by! Don't let me be the only Cadillac owner there!!

RPO V4P rocks!!

12-18-05, 07:52 PM
I don't THINK so. If I'm going to be doing any towing, it'll be with my wife's truck, not my Caddy. Hell, I'd put a tow hitch on my Jeep before I'd use my Caddy.

terrible one
12-18-05, 08:19 PM
Haha, the '76 Eldorado had a tow hitch on it when I got it. My gramps used to pull the boat around with it! Haha

12-19-05, 02:36 AM
My 1970 Sedan Deville has a tow hitch on it right now, I should probably get to taking it off although I can't help but think it might be useful someday...

12-21-05, 09:11 PM
NODIH I am trying to join you in towing w cadillac.

I have yet to really hit the road but my idea of large car w tiny trailer
has been met with skepticism , "buy a mid size SUV" they say. Don't want to.

1994 N* Concours w 16ft Scamp fiberglass egg.

I am still learing so I will visit the referred tow rig ssite.

01-02-06, 09:33 AM
Hey, I PUSHED a 90's Opel to the gas station when he was stranded without fuel with my '70 Eldorado. Just my plain pointy massive chrome bumper against his plastic rear bumper!

01-02-06, 12:10 PM
If it makes you feel better depending on which Opel, you can probably push him faster than he could ever go on his own power!

01-03-06, 05:37 AM
I recently had the pleasure of towing an 04 F250 V10 that actually slightly outweighs my 75 Deville with my 75 Deville. Took one of the quicker roads around town and got the whole package up to about 65 no problem and I know it had more in it, just didn't want to risk that thing hitting my ass if we had to stop.

01-03-06, 10:20 AM
I drove my parents RV from St. Louis to middle Florida last year and it has the Workhorse Chassis, which is a GM drivetrain. 8100 V8 (aka, stroker 454, now 496 CID) and Allison 5 speed auto (fixed in tow mode). It ran around 2500 rpm @ 65mph and w/30K#+ (car in back too, w/o brake on it), was nothing for it. It actually ran better at 75 mph than 65, as it felt low in the power curve at 65. At 75 it was flat out lively for power. Very responsive and torquey. Allison trans was excellent and a dream to drive over the smokies with. It doesn't run up to high gear when you back off the gas at all. So if it even thinks you might be coasting down a hill, it stays back a gear or 2. It won't redline, it will upshift by then, but did well allowing me to control speed down the mountains with relative ease, not getting the brakes too warm (they did, 4 wheel disc, probably the ones off the C3500's), but enough power in them I could stop at any time if needed.

Now that is the motor to drop in my 94 FWB!

01-03-06, 10:31 AM
I am not a big fan of towing with front wheel drive of any substantial weight w/o trailer brakes. I tried towing a car with a dolly with my 91 Bonneville and when I made my last turn into the junkyard on gravel, it nearly jacknifed me pretty good. It just needed a lot more weight in the back end. The Cad might be ok. The N* may be a little weak off the line, but once up to speed should do well.

A midsize SUV is a joke if you ask me. For towing most can't tow more than a couple thousand #'s. Now a Tahoe/Suburban can tow well. I have a 96 K1500 4WD Suburban and it is rated @ 6000#, 6500# if it was 2WD. Tahoe is 6500# 4WD and 7000#. My 94 Fleetwood is 7000#. And I can take more tonque weight amazingly enough.

Check out UHaul.com and punch in some towing combos, they won't let you get near towing capacity in most cases due to the trailer outweighing the tow rig. And wheelbase matters too, There is a formula I found on rv.net that had the trailer wheelbase as compared to tow rig wheelbase. (non gooseneck/5th wheel). To tow a long trailer, you MUST have long rig to maintain safety. So those 3+3 C/K3500's are the best for most long trailers.

You don't sound like you should have any problems. What is the towing capacity and the weight of your trailer? Was there a towing package on the N* cars? The dealer that my mom bought her 97 275hp Deville from claimed her car had the towing package. I an dubious that it existed. My dad says there is what he thinks is trailer wiring provisions in the trunk. Anyone know?

NODIH I am trying to join you in towing w cadillac.

I have yet to really hit the road but my idea of large car w tiny trailer
has been met with skepticism , "buy a mid size SUV" they say. Don't want to.

1994 N* Concours w 16ft Scamp fiberglass egg.

I am still learing so I will visit the referred tow rig ssite.

01-20-06, 01:01 PM

I've got a '89 eldorado and want to fit a hitch to tow. Trouble is the manual says I can only tow 900lbs.(approx) I really want to tow a caravan (trailer - sorry i'm posting from the Uk which makes things even harder...) which will weigh closer to 2200lbs.

I can't believe that a car of this size and power (bearing in mind 2.5 litres egine capacity in the UK is big) can only pull 900lbs. In the Uk we are allowed up to 85% of the vehicle weight this actually equates to 3000 lbs allowance.

I can source a hitch etc from Draw-tite etc. but don't want to do this if the trans is going to blow up or the rear end of the vehicle will be pulled off!

Any help for a caddy friend living over the pond will be appreciated.



01-20-06, 07:24 PM

I'm thinking of putting a hitch on my 1979 Sedan deVille. I'm in Florida and need to move some car artifacts and miscellaneous household furniture up to Minnesota. The owner's manual isn't too keen on the idea of towing and I'm wondering how crazy I would be to attempt it on a 1600 mile trip. The car has new shocks and rear springs plus new radiator, etc. What do you think?



01-21-06, 12:06 PM
Somewhere in the owners manual there should be recommendations on max weight, max tonque weight, GCVW (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight), etc. Don't exceed those.

Honestly the 425 with the factory THM400 should tow easily. The 2.28's aren't gonna help though.

My personal recommendations to upgrade:
1. Install an external trans cooler. Biggest you can stuff in. I have a huge double row one in my T/A because I was gonna tow. I installed one on my 91 Bonneville (because we towed 6X12 UHaul mild to lightly loaded) and the car is still on the road with >260K miles on the original untouched trans. And it still shifts good. Coolers are mandatory in my book.

2. If you are towing >2000 lbs, go with an external engine oil cooler too. Some Cadillacs have them already, so take a look. Cadillacs often (due to long wheelbases and good factory options and power) make great tow rigs.

3. Check the load rating on the tires and ensure they are rated to handle the weight you are towing on them and the weight of the loaded car. A Load Range E tire (the ones found on 1 ton dualies and such) are rated around 2500# per tire, Load range D is around 2000, Load Range C is around 1500, but passenger car tires are often 700-1500. So if the tow car weighs in at 4000#, and you have 500 lbs tonque weight, and 50% of the weight is on the back tires, that is 2500# total, 1250# per tire. Just check it. With the Cadillac RPO V4P towing package, it got the Eagle GA tires instead fo the std tires. I am betting to ensure the weight class was safe. Just check it. Cheaper tires and lower aspect ratio hurt this. 75's often are the best. 70's are next. 60's and 50's often don't hold enough to tow with.

4. If you are going to have a lot of tonque weight, the factory load leveling (if you have it) may not be sufficient, and may run all the time. Cadillac recommends it be disabled and rear suspension improvements be made, like HD springs and/or air bags. The 94-96 V4P Fleetwoods were rated at 840 lbs tonque weight with the FE2 suspension. That is quite a bit. I have used coil over shocks that fit over stock shocks (non air shocks) with excellent results and ride. You can preload them some and increase the weight carrying on the rear end. Do not exceed factory ratings still. There likely was a 7000# towing package in 1979. Probably much of what is on this link: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48424&highlight=V4P would have been available in 1979, just in the 1979 parts bins. Like 3.08 to 3.42 gears, HD rad, 7 blade mech fan, recalibrated or HD version of the THM400, likely same brakes, as Cadillac had the bigger ones std, but other car lines got better brakes, sometimes towing packages got you a new frame that was HD, sorta like the 9C1 cop car frame is beefier than the Caprice frame.

5. Make sure electrical system is in good shape, as there is additional draw on it with the trailer lights and brake if installed/used.

Honestly you should be fine if it isn't terribly heavy. If very heavy, look to the mods for sure. If you can install gauges under dash like trans temp, engine temp and oil temp and oil pressure that is a very good and safe thing to do.

6. Use like 15W40, do not do like a friend of mine did, tow with 5W30 (on an Escort) in the summer. He junked the car when he got there, the engine was about to explode by the time he go there. Change trans fluid, or ensure the trans fluid/filter is fresh. A good idea too is to change the rear end lube. As you will be towing, synthetic might be a good idea, they often handle heat better than non synthetic. Ensure that the maint of the car is in top shape.

7. As for hitch, good quality hitch. The Class II's vs Class III's vs Class IV's aren't always that much different in price. But are heavier. Get what you need, as the bigger ones are more obvious, but then again, bigger is better.... I have always liked towing on the larger hitch, they seem to handle the weight better and less flex. If you are going Class III, go right to Class IV, it is nearly the same and also nearly double the towing capacity. They are a little harder to find. I have a Class II on my car that I am going to replace with a Class IV, so if mine will work, maybe we can work out something. Check the 94 Fleetwood Brougham and your 79 Fleetwood Brougham and see if they share the hitch p/n's.

Edit: I checked Trailerhitch.com and it shows the same hitch for 1994 and 1979 for the Class II which is what I have, as well as 2 draw's, 1 with 1 7/8" ball and 1 with 2" ball. Interesting though, for the Class IV hitch, the 94 and 79 hav different part numbers. Wonder what is different that the Class II can share hitches.

Class II hitches are rated at 3500 lbs max weight and 350 tonque. Where the Class IV is rated at 10000 lbs max and 1000 tonque (weight distributing), and 5000 lbs max and 500 lbs tonque (no weight distributing). So in 90% of the cases, the Class II works for most anyone. The Class IV's really are for more unqiue towing options. We plan on moving this year and the Cad and Suburban will both be towing a lot, so I am going Class IV anyway.

01-22-06, 09:52 AM
WOW!! That's great information! Thanks! I have a '79 Sedan deVille and it does not have level control. I have some living room furniture and a bedroom set plus a desk and some miscelaneous other things. Hopefully it won't be too much of a burden on the car. I would prefer not having to screw around adding coolers, etc., if I can make the trip without. I plan on leaving Florida in early March and driving to Hudson, WI. This would be the only time I would use the car for towing. My other option is to ship the car back and have the furniture items moved in a rented truck or by a moving company.

Again, thanks for the info and I appreciate your thoughts.