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New wheels inside!

9K views 55 replies 15 participants last post by  TimmyC 
#1 ·
Forgeline 20" 3 piece hotness

275/35/20 front and 305/35/20 rear

Once I got the wheels on I couldn't stop myself from doing the full Murderlac treatment. Can anyone pic out all the mods?







 
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#2 ·
Looks very nice.are the wheels brand new or off of ebay used?I was bidding on a used set just like yours, but they needed to much fixing.i wish I would have bought them now after seeing your car with them.the brake swap will be done on my car before I pull it out of storage in spring.i know amazon is the place for calipers.wanna tell me place and price for the rest.rotors and pads?all I do is order parts from you, good to finally see your car.does the wifes v get all the upgrades also.lol
 
#4 ·
Rotors are two piece Brembo/custom TC Fab. Pads are AC Delco.

I dissasembled the headlights and painted the inside with standard automotive paint. Fog lights got the same treatment with the addition of some projectors and clear lenses.

My wife can have any parts she wants but her car is completely stock for now.
 
#8 ·
What I notice is the Brembo Mono-block 6-pot calipers. How hard is it to convert from our OEM 4-pots to these?

Not sure why you're having issues with the DWS's. I was remarking how much better they were than the DW's in terms of handing grip and launch traction after I swapped them last weekend. But again, that's in temps around 50*. Once it's warmer, it's no comparison.
 
#9 ·
The calipers bolt on. You have to swap the bleeders and transfer tubes because they are designed to go on the back of the knuckle and the differential pistons will be oriented incorrectly if you don't.

Rotors are more work. You can either redrill 09+ CTS-V rotors or have new hats made for the two piece units like I have. There is no bolt on rotor for this swap.

Stock lines work if you rotate the bracket 90 degrees. Braided lines would be better, both from a performance standpoint and ease of installation.

Edit: I could roast 275 DWSs at any time in first or second gear. Roast. Still can with the 305 Coopers, but not as easily.
 
#18 ·
Yeah, should have taken that down, oops.

There were no D3 springs out there when I did mine so I cut the stock ones. I didn't really want to deal with them anyway. The ride is pretty stiff but I have not driven a car with the D3 springs so I can't compare.

Brake components are expensive, that is correct. Except for the pads, those were super cheap.
 
#28 ·
Add a turbo kit (and a lot of time tuning) to the supercharger?

Would the driveline handle 500+ rwhp?
Trans? Diff? Axles?

I'd rather see the STS4 setup with either the supercharger from the 4.4L or maybe even an engine swap but retain the 4.6L oil pan for the AWD provisionings.
 
#30 ·
I'm right there also. Trans is still strong as ever. I'll stick with the 4.4 over the 4.6. Far too many upgrades over the 4.6. I'd say if I went to the drag strip I would be looking into axels n diff upgrades. I think Tim had a few issues with axels or something at dragstrip but I'm not certain . I figure he will be posting pretty soon anyways. I'm going to be looking into those rear end upgrades after I break them with what's to come lol
 
#31 ·
The rears are 10.5" wide.

500rwhp is still a goal but 480-485 on a mustang dyno is about tops with the stock supercharger. That would be over 500 on most dynojets.

E85 would put me over the top I think. I may have to try that. Range would suck hard though.

I made 575rwhp with the turbo set up through full exhaust. It would have gone over 600 with an open downpipe but I was out of fuel pump so I could not try it.

Lots of people talk about turbo kits, but nobody wants to pay $7k+ to get one.

I broke an axle at the track the same way everyone else does, wheel hop. I should look into taming that down.

The transfer case on the awd models is known to have a weak chain. And I don't own one so that's not going to happen from me.
 
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